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Everything posted by wwest

  1. Many professional A/C shops will only charge you $100-$200 to convert. I only paid $150 to have my '88 Carrera converted.
  2. How about a LOX tank with a simple solenoid that only ports the lox into the intake at WOT.
  3. Check that you have crush washers on both ends of the fuel filter.
  4. It just cost me $150 to have my '88 Carrera serviced and converted to R134 and the cooling seems to be just as good as before. Not that I would recommend it for the south, but..... The primary short-coming seems to be on the side of condensing the refrigerant back into liquid form downstream of the compressor. So the operation, EFFICIENT operation, of the blower motor to force airflow over the front condensor is especially important. You should not only make sure this blower is working but that its air inlet is clear and the squirrel cage blower wheel vanes and surrounding plenum area is SUPER CLEAN. If you happen to have a rear spoiler then adding a few 12 volt computer cooling fans below the spoiler to force airflow through the rear condensor would also be of great help.
  5. I think you're going to find it's worse than that, the high/low beams don't work. Put it back. Worse
  6. You neglected to mention that the cruise control will not work if all of the rear brake light bulbs are converted to LEDs. You will need to add a load resistor in that case. I used a small 12 volt relay with a 50w halogen bulb connected via the NC contacts, with the brakes light on the relay opens teh halogen bulb circuit.
  7. Just use one, a spare, of the seat memory settings to move the outside rear view mirrors 5-10 degrees downward from the daytime position and dark window film on the rear window for the interior rear view mirror.
  8. wwest

    1989 Turbo

    On my '78 the tach jumping, and then later the engine overspeed circuit latching up was the result of a failing alternator. Turn the key completely off long enough to remove the overspeed latchup and the car would restart and run for....unpredictable.... New alternator w/regulator built in and the rebuilt CDI ignition seems to have solved the problem. The factory original CDI ignition and over-rev protection circuit both seem to be overly sensible to over-voltages. The tach signal comes from the CDI so when it starts misfiring(***) due to the over-voltage the tach jumps and eventually the rev limiter latches up. With the battery all the way up in the front and the alternator/regulator clear in the back then both the battery feed + wiring and the ground return wiring front to back become EXTREMELY critical. Voltage spikes, UPWARD voltage spikes, due to intermittent internal short circuits within the alternator can destroy CDI system in very short order. When I disassembled the factory original alternator I could not believe it had been operational, every winding showed signs of (frame) shorting and overheating. *** With the supply voltage well above 12 volts the CDI's internal voltage DC-DC upconverter's output voltage goes well above the ~250 volt "standard" causing the 300 volt rated SCR to break down and "fire" spontaneously.
  9. Used two 5 amp diodes to supply window electric motor power source to both left and right parking/market/tail lights. Diode "cathode" to the top of each L/R fuse #3 and 4 and anodes joined and jumpered to the top of fuse #21. Will be adding 3W LEDs as actual DRLs later.
  10. Yes, that is the condensor cooling fan and it works well. I plan to take it out and clean the squirrel cage blower. It now appears that the relay/wiring/connector is for the optional headlight washer.
  11. At the moment my guess, resulting from going over the fuse load list, is that the relay/connector near the car jack is for the optional headlamp washer/washing.
  12. 1988 Carrera special edition, 100k plus miles. Two stubbed off wires inside the blower evaporator "cubby", one brown and one red w/white strip. Relay socket, no relay, directly above the windshield washer pump, brown and yellow Heavy duty wires that then go to a connector, no connection, tucked away near the end of the car jack. No non-working functions that I can find, oil cooler fan, condensor cooling fan, fog lights, horn, all work. Anyone know the purpose of either or both of these..??
  13. Yes, bought one off Ebay, installs as easy/tedious (not fun) as otherwise and works well so far.
  14. The very best way to avoid "misting", assuming this means interior windshield/window condensation build up, is to disable the A/C ENTIRELY during the winter months. NEVER allow the A/C to operate EXCEPT for cabin cooling. Once the A/C has been used for dehumidification, even days ago, you are taking a chance on sudden windshield fogging. Sudden and seemingly spontaneous to the point of being a HARARD to life and limb. My '01 C4 has a "toggle" switch mounted on the back inside wall of the center console storage glove box that opens the A/C clutch circuit.
  15. I would never own one without. But not the Ebay style, the soutahc4s style for sure.
  16. Assuming you have a high efficiency intercooler downstream of the SC using two head gaskets each side might lower the CR enough to have a more positive effect. Otherwise an intake camshaft regrind to get an Atkinson cycle effect might help.
  17. You can determine if the system is operating reasonably correctly by turning it to max cooling, recirculate, lowest blower speed, and verifying that the dash outflow air reaches <45F within 3-5 minutes.
  18. Unless you have detuned the engine via >15% reduction in factrory compression ratio.... Anytime you wish to take on my factory stock 2001 911/996 C4 in a 24 hour endurance GT "race" just name the time and place. Both deposit $25,000 and winner takes all.
  19. I seem to remember that a number of years ago I accidently discovered that if one of my headlights was disconnected then the other one would not work. That could have been on my Canadian origin '99 w/DRLs or the '01 C4. Work is..?? Our office is in Redmond.
  20. The guy from fabspeed posted that it is an artifact from the DSLR he was using to video the car runs. Maybe he did not want to admit to an illegal mod to the brake lights, but that is what he told us! DV is captured at a higher framerate (60fps typical) than most eyes can parse. Traditional movie film, for example, runs at 24fps and unless your eyesight is "quick" you don't notice a stutter. LEDs oscillate. Most of us see a constant stream of light from them, but a video camera captures their "flicker." If you stare at some of the newer LED Christmas lights you might start to see what the video is capturing. They certainly play tricks on my eyes. I hope that few make the mistake of installing flicker on their brake lights--sounds dangerous and silly to me, since a constant red is the internationally-standard "I'm braking" notification. Mark "...LEDs oscillate..." "Flicker", NOT oscillate, and then only in a 120VAC 60 hz light "string", not on a 12VDC automotive power supply. Unless we're talking about "oscillate" in the aspect of the molecular level. The ones available at superbrightleds.com FLASH (1-2 seconds..??) when the brakes are initially applied and then go solid RED.
  21. A voltmeter will be of no help. You need a digital storage oscilloscope or logic analizer. The ballast inrush current flow for initially igniting the HID arc lasts less than a 10th of a second, maybe even as little as 1/100th of a second, not enough time for most voltmeters to react. Once the arc starts the current load on the wiring is even less than what you would have with halogens, 35 watts HID vs 55 watts Halogen
  22. Did you discard the factory speaker sound enhancement enclosures inside the doors/body...? I don't see how they could be used with you new, larger speakers and if not I'm surprised at any speaker sound improvement you say you acheived.
  23. Even in a Lexus LS the only time one can truly appreciate the extended fidelity of ANY of these high end audio systems is while parked in a QUIET sub-basement garage, engine off (and HVAC blower) with the windows rolled up tightly. In a Lexus LS, okay, but in a Porsche..?? Most modern day OEM audio systems now have integral MOSFET DC-to-DC PWM switching upconverters to supply >100 volts to the speaker drive amplifiers. More than enough fidelity for an environment wherein the ambient noise, white noise, is typcally in the range of 70DB (LS400) or more (Porsche).
  24. I purchased a set of small, DIP size, SPDT relays for doing this on my '01 C4. The relay is energized via parallel connection to the standard turn signal circuit. The NC contacts supply voltage to green LEDS (matches car color) as marker lights, the NO contacts supply power to amber LEDs. LEDs are mounted inside/behind the CLEAR maker lens and the relay with LED current limiting resistor mounted, epoxied, to the backside of the marker light assembly. Oh, sorry, almost forgot, my street/parking/tail/marker light circuits are "bridged" into the DRL circuit such that they always come on with DRL voltage
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