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Install the largest, within reason, electrolytic capacitors (>15 volt rating, polarised) as close as posible directly across the two leads supplying power to the HID ballast/ignitor. Also, make certain sure that the battery/alternator system is operating at proper capacity and charge level. HID initial ignition requires >25,000 volts, a serious level of DC-to-DC upconverting from the battery's 12 volts. The gap voltage drops to ~70 VDC once the arc is established.

Apparently you haven't yet noticed but your CC is also disabled. In my RX300 I went in and modified the current flow sensing aspects of the bulb failure detection controller so it was satisfied with the lower (~10:1) LED current flow. For my '01 C4 I simply added a relay and a 50 watt incandescent bulb in the LED high mount circuit behind the high mount itself. The NC contacts of the relay connect the bulb into the circuit, satisfying the CC bulb "keep-alive" current flow requirement. When a full 12 volts is applied (the brake lights are on) the relay pick sup and takes the 50 watt incandescent out of the circuit.

If a thermistor sensor is used (highly probable) then you can bridge, parallel in, a 1000 ohn resistor for awhile and if that works to abate the failure warning you defintely have a sensor failure.

My wife loved driving her '05 997 so much we bought an '08 Cayenne S for our dog (we have to drive it for the dog). But we kept the Carrera. And the Boxster. I've been very pleasantly surprised with the fuel economy in the Cayenne - around 20 MPG highway at respectable cruising speeds. You might not do quite as well with the Turbo. The Carrera holds a lot for its relatively compact size, but the Cayenne holds so much more. The back seat is lots more usable for people, too. Many Cayenne parts are a lot less expensive than their Carrera counterparts. While not as enjoyable as a Porsche sports car on twisty roads, the Cayenne does a pretty good job holding its own compared to most other cars on the road. And driving it puts a smile on our faces. But totally different driving dynamics from the Carrera Enjoy your new Cayenne :D "..You might not do quite as well with the turbo..." An understatement if I even heard one. In order to accomodate turbo boost on the rare occassions of it being appropriate/used the base V8 must must be derated, HORRIBLY derated. The NA V8 is DFI, Direct Fuel Injected, so the static compression ratio is likely close to 12:1, yeilding fairly decent overall FE. The turbo V8's CR might be as low as 8:1 so normal, cruise mode, driving (98% of the time) will have relatively POOR FE. No substitute for SuperCharging and e/VVT-i, "extended" VVT-i. Keep the engine in Otto mode, 15:1 CR, and transition into Miller cycle mode, (<10:1 "pre-boost" dynamic CR) with FULL boost.

"..Any 911 owners done this?.." Give up a 911(996/997) in favor of a Cayenne...??!! It would be my guess that you are TOTALLY alone on this.

Thanks, I was making it harder than it needs to be. Checked with my dealers parts dept and the harness only runs $52. Should have figured Porsche would have it covered. :D On the other hand the new high mount might be LEDs whereas the old one was incandescent..?? Other than opening up the current flow detection module and modifying it adding resistors parallel to the LED might be the only solution

You have only one problem. There is a switch/mechanism inside the wiper motor gear box that prevents the wiper motor from stopping until it is in the "park" position. This switch has failed in the "open" position. If the wiper motor is never in the park position as designated by the opening of the switch, reaching the "park" position, the time delay never runs.

That depends almost entirely on how much you are willing to derate the base engine performance via lowering the static compression ratio. The more PRE-COMPRESSED and INTERCOOLED cylinder CHARGE you can make use of via the SC the more ON-BOOST HP/Torque you can get. 8:1 static would not be out-landish IMMHO. Absent some level of CR derating I wouldn't bother. You are absolute wrong in your statement. There is no speculation about this, although you always seem to have it. Low boost and high compression has been around for years and if the boost is managed properly, it produces as much power as a higher boosted, lower static compression engine does. Whether you take a low static compression engine and boost it with 10 psi of boost or a high static compression engine and boost it with 5 psi, the boosted compression ratio of 18:1 creates the same stress on an engine and will deliver the same amount of power, all other things being equal. The engine with the higher staticc compression, however, will perform substantially better in off boost and low boost driving. There are many good books available that you should read which will enlighten you about FI engines. Sorry, simple matter of physics, the more, the higher %, of the cylinder charge that can be cooled AFTER compression the higher the effective BOOSTED compression ratio can be without resulting in detonation. Due to the cooling effects of DFI the new NA engines can have a static compression ratio of ~12:1.

That depends almost entirely on how much you are willing to derate the base engine performance via lowering the static compression ratio. The more PRE-COMPRESSED and INTERCOOLED cylinder CHARGE you can make use of via the SC the more ON-BOOST HP/Torque you can get. 8:1 static would not be out-landish IMMHO. Absent some level of CR derating I wouldn't bother.

If you haven't already done it, drive it for awhile and the light should go out. If not, double check that your connections are clean and tight. (Don't over do it just make sure they are snug. Should not be able to move the terminal end if it's connected properly) I have disconnected the battery several times and if I had the PSM light come on it didn't last long enough for me to remember it. Also had a similar set up with a battery tender so I don't think that's the issue unless you're getting current loss from a loose connection or a poor connection caused by a dirty or oxidized battery terminal. Make sure you always disconnect negative terminal first ( if you just need to cut power to the car ) and reconnect it last (if you're also disconnecting the positive terminal). The ABS pumpmotor is used to "replenish" brake fluid pressure as/when it is used up via PSM activation. The pumpmotor is relatively small for such a BIG job and therefore draws a "ton" of current from the 12 volt system when it (rarely) has to run. So if the system detects a low battery, even only slightly low, it will reserve pumpmotor operation for ABS only. You can correct the system fault, provided your battery is full charged, by disconnecting the battery entirely for 10 minutes or so. That 2 second battery disconnect was only/just long enough for the ABS/PSM system to detect a "low" battery.

PSM (if you have it) differentual braking...??

In order to get the full benefit of a turbo, assuming intercooling included, your engine must first be detuned, static compression ratio lowered to something in the range of 8:1. That, basically, would result in the car not being very satisfactory for use as a daily driver. Same is true for SuperCharging. A more satisfactory forced induction solution could be had via the use an intercooled SC(***) and Toyota's new e/VVT-i system. But that would require some really serious engineering design and mechanical engine retrofit work. To summarize, the engine, DFI assumption, could run in standard Otto mode, 15:1 compression ratio, for light throttle/engine loading. Atkinson cycle, 12:1 CR, for moderate throttle/engine loading, and then Miller Cycle, 9-10:1 when Boost is required/used. *** TurboCharging cannot be an effective solution with an Atkinson or Miller cycle engine. No "waste" gas to spin the turbo.

The data you collected is meaningless. Capture the follwing information all the way to redline in 2nd or 3rd gear. RPM Coolant temp MAF (in kg/h) Timing After Cat O2 sensor voltage Throttle position LTFT and STFT. Also show MAF signal at idle with AC off. If you have the ability, measure vacuum at idle and boost at redline. my interesting findings on run 2 of durametric deal well i wish i had written down this list to check off when running the durametric deal. i had run some other values just off the hip and interesting findings. i will definately check those options next time im out with her. it just started raining and really couldnt push her or even come close to a redline. no fun...... keep you posted. i also wasnt able to find "timing" and whats LTFT and STFT? dont think i saw those either?? is there anyway to alter durametric software to mph instead of kph and celcius to farenheit? i have fault code P0103 - Heat Film MAF Sensor it displayed. i reviewed the DME 7.2 fault text and codes under that code and having a hard time determining how this chart works. Your MAF signal is obviously way too high. Check to make sure that the installer made the necessary modifications to reduce the excess MAF signal generated by the increased air flow. Check with TPC to see how they reduce the signal. Because more air is flowing into the engine, the signal generated by the stock MAF must be reduced mechanically. It can either be controlled by reducing the signal with a resistor or modiication of the path of the airflow. Not sure how they do it but it is likely your problem. You need to reduce your idle MAF signal down to around 18 kg/hr. MAF signal must be reduced..?? Huh..?? MAF signal MUST be proportional to the amount/volume of airflow intering the engine... At engine idle or light engine load cruising the upstream oxygen sensors are used to control A/F mixture to stociometric standard. With even moderately high engine loading the A/F mixture is enriched beyond stociometric, oxygen sensor out of range, and the MAF/IAT is used to control mixture. If you reduce the MAF output signal (to prevent overscale..?) then ECU parametric air volume "multiplier" must be adjusted to compensate.

im really not up for a $2500 system that 'looks cool' and if that part is required i will have it soon. also will look into oil seperator per your advice. im just so tired of this project as it has eaten up more than a month of my time shared with my car. getting a little worn out on the idea of 'bolt on' power and 'all inclusive kits' pfft. i can only advise not to ever engage in doing so with your porsche unless your have more time and money then brains. go out and buy the turbo...... Sc or Turbo, it doesn't matter, anytime you add forced induction to an engine that didn't come from the factory that way you had better be WELL SCHOOLED on ALL the issues. well im a firm believer in learning from experience regardless of outcome. We can only hope that your learning experience is completed before that engine goes TU. i was getting impatient as it has been over month with everything said and done. heres the current update if your curious B) everything is correctly installed i just put 100 miles on her tonight! i think because the ECU was remapped it still had to adjust, which it does automatically when unplugged from the battery. thats my understanding from installing a battery previously. i noticed the car did not respond like it use to and that i had to drive her in order for the ECU to adjust to how i drive. same thing now and i have noticed since i first got the car (cold) it ran poor and now its a champ again! filled her up with 100 octane and felt her out. a lot is different and i will take some notes tomorrow with some thoughts i have. i will also plug in the durametric deal and get some data. pics and video soon too! paul i think i saw ur car today on laurel lol.

im really not up for a $2500 system that 'looks cool' and if that part is required i will have it soon. also will look into oil seperator per your advice. im just so tired of this project as it has eaten up more than a month of my time shared with my car. getting a little worn out on the idea of 'bolt on' power and 'all inclusive kits' pfft. i can only advise not to ever engage in doing so with your porsche unless your have more time and money then brains. go out and buy the turbo...... Sc or Turbo, it doesn't matter, anytime you add forced induction to an engine that didn't come from the factory that way you had better be WELL SCHOOLED on ALL the issues.

I replaced the two 5 watt halogens within the headlight assemblies with lumiled 2 watt LEDs using tight focus colimators.

In the past ten or so years I have twice rear-ended another car. First time was about 2000 in a 1992 Jeep Cherokee Limited, when the car ahead of me stopped abruptly as it was turning into a gas station. The driver suddenly realized she didn't really need to gas up and stopped still partially blocking my path. Full daylight, my speed was "dead slow", the concrete roadbed was dry, there was no opportunity for stearing around, and the Jeeps ABS kicked in. Damage to the other car consisted of a passenger side rear bumper scrape. Driver settled for a $200 check. Jeep wasn't damaged. Just weeks ago I rear-ended a new Nissan (Versa?) about 8PM, dark, with my '01 F/awd RX300. The young lady driving the Nissan was not familier with the area and was taking directions from her boy friend seated behind her. Her mother was in the front passenger seat. We came to a "Y" STOP and merge point and her boy friend had told her to turn right. A n advisement for a slight right turn would have been more appropreate. aShe stopped, checked traffic, and proceeded forward expecting to see a quick opportunity for the right turn her boy friend had inadvertently/unwisely advised her to take. When there was no obvious place to turn right she stopped, apparently in confusion, about 10 feet beyond the STOP "line". In the meantime I was myself looking over my left shoulder (120-150 degrees) checking traffic for a my merge, none was there so I started accelerting forward. By the time I again looked forward the other car had stopped. Panic braking, the ABS kicked in. Shattered the plastic surround on my front license plate and there was no visable damage to the Nissan. $2200 to repair the Nissan since the shop disassembled the rear of the car far enough to find a slightly bent "structural" bracket between the trunk floor and the rear bottom of the trunk lid opening. I got a traffic citation for "inattentive driving" for which I was anything but. In both cases I am of the quite firm belief that had ABS not activated, thereby elongating my stopping distance, there would have been NO CONTACT. How soon will the automotive industry begin using an accelerometer (THE longitudinal accelerometer already present if you have stability control), along with stability control system signals, to prevent ABS activation if G-forces are appropreate to the level of braking AND the stability control doesn't activate..?? If there is no "threat" to directional control or directional stability then ABS will oftentime serve ONLY or MOSTLY (not always, agreed) to elonggate the stopping distance.

Hmmm..1978 SC Targa...buy that in Fresno..??

1978 911 SC Targa, Seafoam Metalic Green, BBS-RS, on loan to my Nephew in McCall ID. 1988 911 Carrera, SE (Special Edition). 2001 911/996 C4, Wimbledon Green, Natural Brown Leather. Previously owned. 1978 SC Targa, as above, less BBS, gift to grand-niece. 1979 SC Targa, Forest Green, BBS-RS wheels, gift to Nyssa OR Mayor. 1999 911/996 C2, Blue/grey, Charitable donation to TeamSeattle.com

"....suggesting a compression test?.." No. Your Porsche engine came from the factory with the MAXIMUM compression ratio assuming a FULL cylinder charge at WOT. I simply do not see the object in adding an SC absent lowering the factory compression ratio in order to take full advantage of the external compression and intercooling. Other than making the SC virtually or mostly non-functional I don't see how you could now "tune" your car for decent engine operation. So, please explain the differnce in risk with running 1.2 BAR of boost on an engine running a 9.6 CR Not just boost, but INTERCOOLED boost. and 0.4 BAR of boost on the same engine running a 11.3 CR? Intercooling of a larger MASS of precompressed air in the case of the lower CR engine. How does boosting a high compression engine that adds more the 40% hp make it non functional? 4040% increase would take a 300HP engine up to 360HP, undoubtedly pushing the "edge". First of all we should assume, MUST assume, that an engine with a CR of 10:1, 12:1 for DFI, could only run premium fuel with a factory standard mixture (HIGH engine loading mixture) without detonation, pre-ignition, ignition due to the heat of compression rather than "waiting" for the ignition spark. Assuming the forced induction air is intercooled the effective CR, WOT/Full boost, might be as high as 12:1(non-DFI). When the cylinder is being fully charged then the greater portion of the charge that can be precompressed and then intercooled the less likely is the possibility of detonation due to the heat of compression. The same reason the new DFI engines can have a 12:1 static/native compression ratio. First, the fuel is NOT in the mixture, cylinder charge, until very late in the compression cycle, and then when it is injected it serves to partially cool the just pre-heated air "charge". SFI results in the fuel being preheated as it passes through the intake, intake valve, and then is additionally preheated by compression. DFI fuel reaches the entry into the combustion chamber as a liquid, a comparitively COOL liquid. An ideal system would have have a CR of 1:1, the air charge FULLY pre-compressed and then intercooled, allowing the effective CR to rise as high as maybe 18-20:1 Alright, so based on your statements, a lower CR engine needs a more efficient intercooler. No. A low CR allows an SC/intercooler combination to be more "efficient". Assuming WOT and reaching a FULL cylinder charge, with a low static CR more of the "charge" will have been intercooled AFTER compressing. That would allow a higher effective CR with boost vs having a smaller portion of the charge intercooled with an already high static CR.. Using the same intercooler for 0.4 bar of boost on a high CR engine would be even more efficient. No. A 40% increase on a 300 hp engine is not 360 hp but 420 hp. There are a few otherwise stock 996 engines running far more hp than 420. My bad. I won’t even address your comments on a DFI engine since we are in the 996 forum. So, I’ll ask again, why does supercharging a stock 996 make it non functional? Why don't we just wait and see what turns out to be wrong with your SC modification..??

"....suggesting a compression test?.." No. Your Porsche engine came from the factory with the MAXIMUM compression ratio assuming a FULL cylinder charge at WOT. I simply do not see the object in adding an SC absent lowering the factory compression ratio in order to take full advantage of the external compression and intercooling. Other than making the SC virtually or mostly non-functional I don't see how you could now "tune" your car for decent engine operation. So, please explain the differnce in risk with running 1.2 BAR of boost on an engine running a 9.6 CR Not just boost, but INTERCOOLED boost. and 0.4 BAR of boost on the same engine running a 11.3 CR? Intercooling of a larger MASS of precompressed air in the case of the lower CR engine. How does boosting a high compression engine that adds more the 40% hp make it non functional? 4040% increase would take a 300HP engine up to 360HP, undoubtedly pushing the "edge". First of all we should assume, MUST assume, that an engine with a CR of 10:1, 12:1 for DFI, could only run premium fuel with a factory standard mixture (HIGH engine loading mixture) without detonation, pre-ignition, ignition due to the heat of compression rather than "waiting" for the ignition spark. Assuming the forced induction air is intercooled the effective CR, WOT/Full boost, might be as high as 12:1(non-DFI). When the cylinder is being fully charged then the greater portion of the charge that can be precompressed and then intercooled the less likely is the possibility of detonation due to the heat of compression. The same reason the new DFI engines can have a 12:1 static/native compression ratio. First, the fuel is NOT in the mixture, cylinder charge, until very late in the compression cycle, and then when it is injected it serves to partially cool the just pre-heated air "charge". SFI results in the fuel being preheated as it passes through the intake, intake valve, and then is additionally preheated by compression. DFI fuel reaches the entry into the combustion chamber as a liquid, a comparitively COOL liquid. An ideal system would have have a CR of 1:1, the air charge FULLY pre-compressed and then intercooled, allowing the effective CR to rise as high as maybe 18-20:1

"....suggesting a compression test?.." No. Your Porsche engine came from the factory with the MAXIMUM compression ratio assuming a FULL cylinder charge at WOT. I simply do not see the object in adding an SC absent lowering the factory compression ratio in order to take full advantage of the external compression and intercooling. Other than making the SC virtually or mostly non-functional I don't see how you could now "tune" your car for decent engine operation.

I would suggest trying some 100 octane LL aircraft fuel and if the low end performance improves then the native/static/base engine compression is still too high to accomodate unlimited BOOST without knock/ping. By how much was the engine static compression ratio lowered when/as the SC was added..?? I'm pretty sure you, nor anyone for that matter, would NOT wish to reprogram the ECU so as to ignore the knock/ping sensors. So we're left with...just what additional action might the engine ECU do to abate knock/ping once it has changed the timing and mixture to the "outer limits" OEM/factory limits.

I seem to remember that if a system is low on refrigerant it will sometimes still work if the OAT is so low that cooling is not required.

+1 And I would say "darty", quick and certain reaction to even the slightest stearing input, rather than skiddish. My first reaction to driving my '78 "at speed" was to compare it to flying our Cessna 210, constant attention required, exceedingly tiring.