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wwest

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Everything posted by wwest

  1. SOP for manual transmissions, even worse, more often, shifting into reverse when full stopped and therefore the gearbox synchronizers cannot be fully operational. The method I use when this happens is to shift into a different, higher gear, release the clutch just lightly, enough to move the gear teeth/cogs, and then complete my shift into first or reverse. This is basically the same problem you might have shifting a true (assuming dog/spline "transfer clutch) 4X4 from 2WD into 4X4 mode while fully stopped.
  2. Original Fit Interiors in Oregon seems to be least expensive 541-459-1700 also see: autosintl.com Appbiz.com gahh.com Other than OR, haven't tried, no luck with any other of those.....
  3. Don't worry about speed at that level crossing the dakotas, MT, WY, ID, but once entering WA..... 10MPH below posted speed is the only "safe" way through AZ.
  4. I know that I have seen carpet mats molded to exact fit for an '88 Carrera, plastic/vinyl base and heel pad but with carpet (appearing) surface. Anyone know where these can be bought..??
  5. More snake oil... Human vision has been "tuned" to the light spectrum, centered around 4300K, of our sun over the many thousands of years we have occupied the earth. The relative wattage rating of 125 watts vs an ordinary halogen bulb might be as a result of measuring the 8000K output of the Euro Effects which have little positive effects (other than maybe impressing oncoming drivers, the majority of which you will never meet) for your human vision anyway. Your OEM probably give you, as the driver, substantially better night vision that those "Euro Effects".
  6. Personally I would use an isolation diode to power the footwell light from the door switch and use the extra switch to turn on only the footwell lights.
  7. Pressure going up and down as if regulated but compressor clutch always engaged seems improbable. Some newer systems use a variable displacement compressor so the clutch, if any, is always engaged. But I don't think the '01 used that system. A good test would be to disconnect the A/C clutch electrical connection at the compressor and see if the sound changes. You may have a defective refrigerant pressure switch which doesn't turn off the compressor when it should, that would certainly result in some very strange noises as the liquid refrigernat reaches the compressor intake.
  8. Check the body ground post/stud for the battery negative side, just near the battery, and check the engine/body ground connection/strap near the engine, engine bottom front (I think).
  9. You do understand, do you not, that higher temp (color) bulbs, above 4300-5000K, result in lower human forward vision...?? As do fog lights when used simultaneously with low beams, especially non-amber BRIGHT fog lights. My fog light bulbs are the halogen AW, All-Weather, type and are NEVER on along with my low beams. While quite possibly impressive and most certainly IRRITATING to oncoming drivers (most of whom you will NEVER be likely to meet and hear {or maybe "feel" in the case of irritation} their impressions) foglights along with low beams have the unique advantage of the raising the potential for putting you and you passengers at risk due to the reduction of forward vision at night. If you must spend that money otherwise burning holes in your pockets then move the map lights to a point behind you, above your right shoulder, and change them to recessed bulb "projector" types so your passenger can read without the OEM BRIGHT map lighting interfering with YOUR forward vision.
  10. ofpiste; With the A/C system under maximum "stress", max COLD, HIGH blower, open doors/windows, fresh mode, incoming HOT, >80F, airflow the low side should read about 30-40 PSI. Common recharge method is to add refrigerant until low side pressure reaches 40 PSI or compressor starts cycling off and on, mostly ON.
  11. Methinks you maybe need an education in/on DSP, Digital Signal Processing. With the newer inexpensive and SUPER fast processors modern day engine control ECU firmware is well able to "sort" out the various frequencies (frequency bands, really.) and their crankshaft position, timing-related, "meaning" and react/adjust the engine control parameters accordingly. A single day's subscription to techinfo.toyota.com and a complete and comprehensive reading about the modern day use of knock sensors in/on the diagnostic sections would probably suffice. AND... Why go to the additional expense of wide-band sensors if you're not going to take advantage of the new capability...??
  12. Such a stubborn, condescending view begs for other opinions. Here's my 2 cents. It doesn't take a "self proclaimed expert" to know that there is fuel in the tank without using a dipstick. The expert can monitor the fuel level gauge and if there is no reason to disbelieve the gauge, he can tell the level from it. Much in the same way, a "self proclaimed expert" can monitor the "combustion profiles" (boy there's a twenty dollar phrase) by monitoring knock sensors and ignition timing "profiles". The knock sensor feedback is quite simply a monitor of "There is detonation" or "There is no detonation". Period. It's quite simple and does not lend itself to any exotic study of thermodynamics, wave theory, or "combustion profiles". I'm sure that your answer will be that I myself am also a self proclaimed expert but in fact I have gleaned this knowledge from schooling and 30 years experience engineering race engine parts and systems. Sorry for the pointed response but your attitude begged for it. Pointed response or not my response was based on the attitude of another! That's interesting, you ever write any mapping firmware! Have you ever developed digital interface of OBDII diagnostics into a technician terminal. Have you ever wriiten or even seen tuning software and remote engine monitoring software? Well I probably know the answer to that, and if you can just say that since you have a knock sensor that is the cure all, you are way off. The limitations of the maps can only go to the a low threshold! So depending on the threshold written into the firmware will be the determing factor. Even if the knock sensor continues to hear it does not mean that detonation will cease! A knock sensor is tuned to listen in the 5khz range. Aha...! Your knowledge is out of date by a goodly number of years.... Technology has moved on. The 4-5Khz resonant knock sensors were abandoned by most marques more than 5 years ago, probably more like 10 years for high performance cars such as Porsche. The new wide-bandwidth non-resonant sensors can not only detect knock/ping but also actually detect the initiation of the flame front and thereby determine, via comparison with the crank position sensor, if the flame front "beginning" was correctly cognizant with the spark ignition. From reading the material on the subject it appears that if the detonation is prior to spark ignition the corrective action will be to enrich the mixture as retarding the timing would just be detrimental. Combustion chamber cylinder bore and temperature are charateristics that vary knock frequencies. Engines typically have muliple vibrations modes. So in reality depending on the condition the design or location of the sensor may not pick up all the knock. It is not unusual for one cylinder to knock and not be detected due to the transfer function of the cylinders and engine characteristics. In addition, the base reference of the sensor has to be set low for knock detectiion above idle speed. There may be times a knock sensor to shut off above 4000rpm make more dependency on the ECU maps to prevent knock in this range. The sensor can actually not pick up 100% of the knock based on variables mentioned. So now add in 87 octane which may or may not cusae issues! Thus my point in my posts. Another point od f which I agree that a knock sensor goes from base to no knock condition, but that means nothing based on the design and other factors mentioned and if the maps cannot correct then it makes no difference if it hears it or not. The Maps are wrtten for fuel economy, emission standards and performance. With all factors considerd. The outcome is a limitation of the stock firmware. As an engineer one would think you know this! Nice try though! Since this all came from someone making a mistake on using the correct octane, the article I referenced in my above posts backs that 87 octane will have it's problems in a Porsche 996. Have a great day!
  13. Okay, question for you, then. With the A/F mixture and ignition timing "mapping software" so easily malable/modified and regular fuel less expensive and such a common thing why wouldn't the parametric mapping ALWAYS allow for the use of regular fuel. What's the harm...?? Wouldn't it take a somewhat idiotic engineering team, engineering management, to overlook such capability..?? Allow an engine, "street" engine, to be damaged as the result of an owners simple oversight/mistake...?? NOT..!! No because they already specified the fuel that should be used! Porsche and other performance cars are fighting the battle between performance and emissions! To just say you can use this fuel and to design with such wide paramaters is a false understanding! Yes, all of <6% between 87 and 92 octane..!! It's a myopic view to think it's as easy as your comment! Those who buy these cars are expeced to want the performance, therefore the price of fuel is not a factor. In our travels throughout europe fuel price, while SUPER expensive even for regular, was not the issue, availability of premium was. If that is your concen then go buy a honda! With your logic on street engine, then 87 must be okay in a non natually aspirated street engine too? Again, other than designed strictly for race use, yes. Take, for example, the Mazda CX-7 turbo 4 cylinder, recommended fuel is premium, minimum fuel octane is 87. Stated right there on their home page. Hey the guy made a mistake and put in the wrong fuel! Go try and get a warranty claim done if it's found out the so called street engine did not use the recommended fuels! BTW when you go get a tune, guess what, they tune to the fuel being used. What tune, which modern day street use car requires a "tune"...?? So turn the question around, if you get a performance tune what makes you think you can step down from the design? It is a bad assumption on your part! So to respond on your comment NOT! Nice try though! "if you get a performance tune..." Pardon my ignorance but I have no idea what you mean by that, with today's engines just what is, what consitutes, a "performance tune"..??
  14. Okay, question for you, then. With the A/F mixture and ignition timing "mapping software" so easily malable/modified and regular fuel less expensive and such a common thing why wouldn't the parametric mapping ALWAYS allow for the use of regular fuel. What's the harm...?? Wouldn't it take a somewhat idiotic engineering team, engineering management, to overlook such capability..?? Allow an engine, "street" engine, to be damaged as the result of an owners simple oversight/mistake...?? NOT..!!
  15. And wouldn't it be somewhat idiotic for Porsche to design a car that didn't have enough parametric mapping range, A/F mixture and/or timing adjustment, for use in a country/region/continent where premium fuel is often not available...??
  16. Accoding to what I was told at the factory when I picked up my '01 the engine ECU compares the initial detonation, detected via the newer (then) wide-band non-resonant knock/ping sensors, with crank timing to determine if any corrective action is required/needed. If the (even minor) detonation is prior to the spark ignition then the mixture will be enriched since it would make no sense to adjust the ignition timing. I was told that in my travels I would not always be able to fuel with premium and that wouldn't be a problem but I was to absolutely avoid fueling with leaded absent encurring a fee to install new catalytic converters prior to US shipment.
  17. Did you by chance mean to say PSM....?? All PSM fuctionality is provided by the ABS hydraulic pumpmotor and it will shut down due to overheating, or the potential for, really.
  18. As I have said before, you might find someone with the knowledge and willingness to modify your ABS system such that it does not activate at all unless PSM indicates that your car, under braking, is not following the desired "line". That would give you total and complete control of braking until actual loss of directional control is threatened, impending.
  19. Yes, you add refrigerant via the low (<50PSI) pressure line, but I suspect in this case (if not all) the low pressure (vapor) line is the FAT one. Note that the pressure sensor/switches is in the smaller line where it can be used both to turn off the compressor once the high pressure side reaches the upper limit and prevent the compressor from operating if the system pressure is too low. You can add refrigerant as a test without "pulling" a vacuum on the system. But in the normal case the only reason you should need to add refrigerant is because the system has a leak somewhere. Good catch. Although, I'm sure he would have figured out the small one was high pressure when it started spraying at him. lol Do you mean "spraying at him" as in the retail refrigerant filler can exploding due to the design pressure being dramatically exceeded..?? :rolleyes:
  20. Yes, you add refrigerant via the low (<50PSI) pressure line, but I suspect in this case (if not all) the low pressure (vapor) line is the FAT one. Note that the pressure sensor/switches is in the smaller line where it can be used both to turn off the compressor once the high pressure side reaches the upper limit and prevent the compressor from operating if the system pressure is too low. You can add refrigerant as a test without "pulling" a vacuum on the system. But in the normal case the only reason you should need to add refrigerant is because the system has a leak somewhere.
  21. "trying to turn a frozen compressor...." No, maybe not. For some reason there seems to be a "spat" of electromagnetic clutch failures recently apparently due to the epoxy material surrounding the electric coil having not completely cured and then melting under use and engine compartment heat.
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