N41EF

The serp belt should have been replaced at 60k. If you are doing the thermostat, I'd replace the the waterpump, and belt if you are not positive it was done. I don't know that flushing the coolant is needed, sounds like you'll have it apart enought to just about completely drain it. You'll need two gallons of coolant and two gallons of distilled water to refill it.

Aiken, SC/ Augusta, GA area. Durametric enthusiast, older version. Vag-Comm and CAN OBD readers.

From the answers you got from above, there are two different fans or blowers. YOu may be hearing each of them thinking they are the same. There is an emmissions blower than runs on startup for a few minutes, and an engine compartment fan. My engine fan runs intermitantly in stop and go driving, I usualy only notice it with the top down, but during the commute as I come to a complete stop I hear it start and run maybe 5 seconds then shut off. I assume that it is normal and it is coming on to check temperatures to see if it "needs" to run longer. The emmissions pump runs as noted above.

Ok, a little troubleshooting. When you replace the fuse and drive the car, and you go above 75 and the light comes on, is the spoiler up? If you look back can you see it? Does it go down when you slow down? You shouldn't have to ever use the manual switch if things are working correctly. If you drive the car, and go above 75 and the light comes on did it blow the fuse? Or does the fuse only blow with the use of the manual switch?

How long has it been since you used the spoiler? Months? weeks? I've noticed if I don't "exercise" mine, it acts slow and will set the light, never blew a fuse. I changed my habits, take a short drive on the interstate every week, and havent had a light in months.

I can think of three places the noise may be coming from, tire noise, brakes, or wheel bearings. Drilled brake rotors make a wup wup noise like a weedeater, wheel bearing noise changes with load on turns, and tire noise is speed dependant You can change ia pressure, maybe add a little to see if the noise changes. Most aggressive tires have noise, I've found the reviews on tirerack.com helpful about what brand is quieter. I have cheap tires, and they've been noisey since i bought the car, will try something different next time. I'm accross the river if you want to meet up and compare noise, my S is one of the noisiest cars I've even owned, but wow. Chuck

Yes, it is all from the bottom, no not the X rib area of the oil pan. If you look forward of the oil pan, and behind the mount there is a place where the the two halves of the engine cae meet. It's about an inch wide, and two inches long, and mone was kind of odd shaped like an L. If you are using a round floor jack, you might put a small block of wood on it to put the strain on it. A 2x2 a few inches long should work. If you do have to put the weight on the pan use a large, wide piece of wood to even out the pressure. I had to lower the nose of my engine about an inch and a half. When I had the new mount in, it sat about a half inch higher then when I started.

There is a double rib where the two halves of the engine cases. This is just aft of where the motor mount goes. I did mine without draining the coolant, did the black plastic pan under the engine and the center tunnel. You can then move the coolant hoses enough to get the mount out. loosened the top two bolts on the engine side, removed the four on the chassis side, then lowered the front of the engine and removed the lower two on the engne side. With the mount loose you can reach in and loosen then remove the two through bolts, and take out the mount in two halves. I installed it in the reverse of that. Chuck

My front engine mount was shot at 60k miles. If you read through the treads, that is "normal". I've only seen on thread where the rear mounts went bad, and it was leaking something out. I know <ercedes uses a fluid filled rubber mount I'm guessing Porsche doe too. My bet would be to replace the front, and unless you can see something wrong with the rear mounts leave them alone.

As far as routing the coax, follow the positive battery cable as it leaves the battery and goes somewhere. There is a plastic cover under the car that runs front to back down the passenger side of the car. I'm not sure, but I bet the pos cable runs down and through that to the rear. As far as an antenae mount I'd look around the back bumper cover for a way of making something that bolts under the car and sweeps out from underneath. I'm guessing at 15 amps you are running too much power for a mag mount. If you could find the right color rear bumper cover, might be worth buying on and cutting a stylish hole it it to run the mount through. I'm sure a purist will complain, but hey, it's a boxster. Could something be mounted where one of the bumperettes go? Just a thought.

As an electronics guy, and a car guy I think this would be a neat idea, but I might go about it differently. The radio is what needs the current, so I would mount it int he front trunk. Depending on size it might go where the original cd changer or amp went if your's was a base car. You can find rubber gromets on both sides of the battery, if you remove the two black plastic shields out board of the battery you'll see wires going into the cabin. It should be easy to pass cable from the head unit to the raido there. You can then run coax from the radio to the antenae, mounted in the rear? Bu putting the radio in the front you keep the power cable shorter so there is less loss, and less chance of damage. Coax is easier to run to the rear, and less chance of it being damaged and causing a problem.

Going from memory here, but on the three spoke wheel on my 03S, there are two torx scres that come in the back of the wheel and hold the airbag/cover on. I don't know that the cover can be removed from the airbag. If you have movement, the airbag itself may not be seated ont he wheel correctly. Is the cover soft all over, on one edge around the top or what? I would pull the airbag/cover off check that the wheel is installed correctly and that the switch assemle is set at the correct depth/ the Bently's gives a measurment from the end of the threaded steering shaft to the face of theswitch assembly. If it is off, the wheel may not seat correctly, and the the airbag may not set right. It's an easy job with the right tools, just handle the airbag like a loaded gun (it is) and take your time to check things. The batt gets disconnected first, leave the key in the ignition, I put the top down first for comfort. Check the Bently's there is a simple procedure there with the measurement you need.

The axels I took off my 03S had sticker on them, and the new axels from Sunset also did. The part number of the new ones superceeded the old part number. I had all four boots broke or leaking, so I replaced both axels with new, and will clean and reboot the old ones, then vaccum bag them and put them on the shelf as spares.

I think any 5w 40 synthetic that is ACEA A3/B3 or better is a great choice. I don't worry as much over brand of oil, but care about the ratings on the bottle in my hand. It is my opinion that oil companies change oil over time, and that alot of the "meets spec X" is a marketing ploy. The SAE standards have changed over the year and the spec changed for them about every two years (SE SF SG SH....). The 5w 40 gives it good start up protection when cold, and the 40 part gives good protection at normal operating temperature. A 0w would be better for startup, but may be too thin depending on where you live and how cold is cold. As many have said, if you read the manual with your Boxster, 5w 40 is rec for weight. As I said, brand for me isn't an issue if it meets the spec above. ACEA is a european spec and not all oils submit to it or advertise it. Castrol Syntec 5w 40 was required for my TDI VW (VW 501.0) but in my area it was only available at the VW dealer. Much homework on www.tdiclub.com shows that Rotella T synthetic in the blue bottle and Mobile 1 turbo diesel truck oil both meet the requirements for 501.0 and for me it was a matter of availability. You can get the latter two at any Walmart or local auto parts store. Several years ago the Mobile 1 disapeared of the local shelves for a while then came back in a new design jug. When I find any oil meeting this spec on sale I buy several gallons condidering my Bosxster and Discovery take almost 4 gallons between the two for an oil change. I looked for ONE oil that I could use in all four cars, I also have a SMART and a PT Cruiser the daughter drives. It may be overkill for the PT but buying one oil for everything is easier, especialy if it meets the most stringent requirement for any of them. My advice to anyone about oil is to first read your owners manual, remember it was printed many years ago and specifications have changed since then. Then do research on the specs, and find source doccuments, not just the website of the manufacturers. Just my nickels worth.

In that picture, the line on the left is the outlet, thar one on the right is a vent and should not be pressurized. The Bemtly's isn't clear, but I would assume it goes to the evap canister for emmissions control. That line looks to be used for checking the fuel tank pressure or checking for leaks. The evap canister is in the right front wheel well behind the plastic cover behind the tire. It would be worth pilling the whell and line to see if a hose is crimped, or something is amiss that would let pressure build up.. The canister is suppossed to vent the tank and capture vapors so they can get purged into the intake and burned. Something in your system isn't working right, you might also check for codes with an OBD reader, it's possible to have codes with no CEL.

At the risk of beating a dead horse, please check your owners manual. I use 5w 30 in a similar climate because I want quicker flow and protection on startup. My preference is 5w 40 which is a diesel oil, look for an ACEA rating of at least A3/B3. Mobile 1 turbo diesel truck oil is available everywhere (walmart) or Shell Rotella T Synthetic, both are available in 5w 40. If you need something to read about oil, try this: http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/faq.php?faq=haas_articles I've found that oil preferences are like farts, everyone else stinks, but I like mine.

The larger port on the left is the outlet, mine cracked in a circular ring around the outlet. The hose to the right is the vent to the cannister for fumes and vents. If you notice the pump outlet makes a sharp turn then goes through the transducer for fuel flow. There may be strain in the pump housing from vibration causeing the cracks. I think mine had velcro or something to retain the transducer. Also, how tight did you tighten the lock ring? When I did mine the ring was finger tight, and I tightened it much tighter, I think the spec is 30 ft pounds or simillar. The fuel pressure regulator is part of the sender unit, so there is no return line. I think mine failed because I filled it to the rim on a warm day, and the next day it started leaking. Do you stop yours when it first cliecks? Or fill it to the rim?

Don't remember if it was 02 or 03 when they changed the design. The 03 has no return line, there is a pressure line coming out the top of the tank that goes to the engine with the fuel flow meter mounted right there on the tank. When mine leaked I got a puddle of fuel on top of the sender that I most noticed when backing into a parking space because the fans would blow the smell from under the car. Was the sender you get from Pelican an OEM Porsche part? I got mine from Sunset, was not in stock, took a week, and was about $170 plus shipping. If you read the owners manual it warns against filling the tank, and not to "top it off". I think the logic is if you fill the tank FULL then park it, there are coolant lines and such which would warm the tank and make the fuel expand, amybe causing damage to the tank. The sender is prob the weak link, it would crack or fail, I believe that's what happened to mine. I don't know that I'd try to seal one, mine was cracked around the outlet where it makes the 90 degree bend. Is yours cracking in the same place?

It will read and clear the CEL light, but won't do the air bag light.

Most chains seem to stock the brands that are regional or easiest for them to deal with. I just searched Advance Auto online and found this link: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wc...S_1148508489___ It's a dayco belt, but when I did mine several months ago they had goodyear. I did mine by loosening the carpet top cover and sliding it back, then tilting seats forward, then removed the front carpet cover and the belt access cover. Cheap insurance, and you don't want to run it with no coolant flow. You said above you started the car and it made noise as it warms up, I wouldn't start it till you replace the belt and do a visual check on the water pump.

Well, when you add these things up, no power steering, alt light, popping noise, I bet your belt broke. If it did, you have no cooling flow so don't drive the car. You can get a goodyear belt at most auto parts stores, since it's the same as some FWD GM's. If you have a floor jack, raise the right rear corner, poke your head under to see if the belt is on the water pump pulley (lowest right pulley) and if it is not, don't drive the car till you fix it. If the belt is on it, pop the belt access cover off and take a look, but you have something funny going on, and from the symptoms, it's your belt.

It will read and clear OBD codes, It won't do anything for ABS or airbag items. What codes are you trying to read? If you have a check engine light, then yes, it will read them.

You are new, and this HAS been covered way too many times. Please use the search function, you'll find more than you could ever want to read. You will find that oil opinions are like armpits, everyone has one, and everyone elses stink. Since you are new, I'll give you the 50 cent version. Porsche endorses Mobile 1 as factory fill and has an "approved" oil list. I suspect the manufacturers pay to have their oil evaluated and to get on the list. I look more for ratings than the brand. My top two picks for my 986 are Mobile 1 5w 40 which they label as a turbo diesel truck oil, or Rotella Synthetic T which is also a 5w 40. Both are available at Walmart in gallon jugs. the 5w part means that the oil flows better at each cold startup than a 10w oil so there is better protection. The 40 part means that at normal operating temp it flows like a 40w oil and gives great protection. There are many things to look at for cam/lifter wear high temperature sheer strength is one of the keys to look for. I tend to follow ACEA which is a european oil spec, anything A5/B5 is supperb, both of the oils above meet that. Here are a few things to read: http://www.engineoilinfo.com/info_service_class.php http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html http://www.valvoline.com.au/pdf/Essential%...ure%20FINAL.pdf Bottom line, I use a 5w-40 full synthetic that meets A5, and replace the oil and filter every 10k miles or 12 months.

Try just sitting in the car and turn on the radio, see if it resets without starting the car. Other thing I thought of, is there anything in the car that runs for 30 seconds on startup then shuts off? Could be some sort of electrical transient. Try it by turning off the climate control completely, and see if that does it. Did you pull the radio and check the plugs on the back?

Did this a few weeks ago. Had to pop the lowest "ball joint", then the rear most that goes to the track rod. Mark the cam adjusters with a sharpie before you loosen the inboard ones. Also had to remove the up/down bolt that goes through the track rod, then they swung out enough to let the axels comeout. You did remove the aluminum pan under the tranny and the two long stiff aluminum braces.