txhokie4life

Not that I want you to run the engine -- but knowing the following can be useful was the engine running? Did it idle ok? Did you have any issues at higher RPM. I'm not familiar with the PIWIS codes -- I only know the OBD-II and Duramatic codes. You could have a cam position sensor issue. One could swap the sensors from side to side and test -- but I get nervous running the engine when it is potentially out of time. Unless you are mechanically adept -- I would look for an independent and see if the engine is timed correctly. they can do this by looking at the cam shaft alignments at least for the exhaust cams. Mike

I swapped a 97 into a 2000 -- and it works fine. Can't speak for the other way around. Mike

Came across this on another site -- the picture is worth the link if nothing else IMS Issue Caught at last moment Mike

Found the tool for $8 for a set of 4 sizes at Advanced Auto. Stole the cable from my track car that doesn't need it at the moment. Pretty easy once you find all the hidden screws/bolts. The cable is indeed separate from the locking mechanism, but you need to remove the locking mechanism to get the cable out -- it has a little t-hook that has to be rotated 90 degrees to remove. thanks for the help, Mike I've got a whole tech article here that I wrote that should answer all your questions that you have posed here. Check out the photos for details on how you attach the lock mechanism to the door cable. http://www.pelicanpa...le_and_Lock.htm The tool you're looking for should be available at any Craftsman store, or a good parts retailer - they are fairly common. -Wayne I had grabbed these and printed them out -- or at least I thought I had -- I ended up with many copies of the main page -- No internet at the shop! You need to get that book printed!!!! I went to Sears and Harbor Freight neither had the tool -- but I think Advanced Auto does, I'm headed there in a few minutes. thx, Mike

Rumor is the 2005 is even worse for the IMS, however there is also a rumor that for some owners Porsche has been contributing to replacing the engines on 2005's. Best bet would be to price in either an IMSR or a aftermarket warranty or both! mike

I've got a whole tech article here that I wrote that should answer all your questions that you have posed here. Check out the photos for details on how you attach the lock mechanism to the door cable. http://www.pelicanpa...le_and_Lock.htm The tool you're looking for should be available at any Craftsman store, or a good parts retailer - they are fairly common. -Wayne I had grabbed these and printed them out -- or at least I thought I had -- I ended up with many copies of the main page -- No internet at the shop! You need to get that book printed!!!! I went to Sears and Harbor Freight neither had the tool -- but I think Advanced Auto does, I'm headed there in a few minutes. thx, Mike

I'm not convinced the shop did it -- none of the body work had anything to do with getting in/out of the car. Now when I thought they had physcially broken the handle, maybe by yanking on it, I called them up and they said they will fix it. But I'm not going to make someone fix something they aren't responsible for. I did notice they must have pulled the battery as the clock was messed up and they had pulled off the positive terminal protector. I'm going to try a reset routine that was posted at PPBB tomorrow when I go out to the shop to finish up a few things. Hopefully it works and I don't have to open up the door. I hate messing with body trim that I care about. Too easy to mess it up. thanks for the help/suggestions Mike Low and behold it is a snapped cable -- right at the point it connects to the brass piece. Looks like no way to fix it. I think it did work the last few times by luck in a sense that there may have still been a strand or two connected. Fortunately I have another set from my track car -- but I have to pull it from it. I tore the door apart today -- not too bad. but I got stuck trying to figure out how the cable connected to the door release/lock mechanism. A few questions: How does the other end of the cable connect to the door release mechanism? It was not obvious how it connected and whether it was one piece or two? didn't want to get too rough with it. Can you remove the cable from the door release mechanism if they are indeed two pieces -- if so how? Lastly, if I need to remove the door release mechanism -- I have to find a T40 12pt star driver -- but I have not been able to locate one -- anyone have a source? thanks, Mike

I'm not convinced the shop did it -- none of the body work had anything to do with getting in/out of the car. Now when I thought they had physcially broken the handle, maybe by yanking on it, I called them up and they said they will fix it. But I'm not going to make someone fix something they aren't responsible for. I did notice they must have pulled the battery as the clock was messed up and they had pulled off the positive terminal protector. I'm going to try a reset routine that was posted at PPBB tomorrow when I go out to the shop to finish up a few things. Hopefully it works and I don't have to open up the door. I hate messing with body trim that I care about. Too easy to mess it up. thanks for the help/suggestions Mike

I've been there on another Boxster -- this one is tight as a whistle. Not likely water intrusion. I'll be looking at it tomorrow. mike

I figured this had to come up before -- but a search revealed nothing. At first I thought the handle mechanism was broke. Got it back my 99 Boxster back from the body shop and when I got home -- I couldn't open the door -- had to roll the window down reach around and open from outside. Tried it many times, no luck. Today I get in -- and it worked... hmmm. Tried it a few times - still worked. Drove and when I got to my destination -- couldn't open it. But when I rolled the window up and pulled on the handle, the window lowered - but the door wouldn't open. I played around with the window level -- and sometimes I could open it and sometimes I couldn't. Played with the key setting too -- not sure I could figure out a repeatable pattern. I'm thinking that when the body shop worked on somethings -- they pulled the battery -- and somehow the door lost its mind? I didn't have the opportunity to try to re-pull the battery -- but even if I did. How would I help it find its way back? Gotta think that someone the door (ok the Immob computer) thinks it is in some mode and I can get it to allow me to open it sometimes, but not always. Anyone run into this before? thanks, Mike

Texas changed the way the cars are branded in either 2003 or 2005 (I don't remember which) The Title's now state that the vehicles may not be driven on a Texas road and may only be used for Scrap Metal and Parts. Many states reciprocate this. so caveat emptor. m

Yes -- I bought and replaced an IMS failure on a '99 Boxster Tip Mike Mike, What was the labor time to do this?? IMSR -- about 2 hours. To do the whole project engine pull and replacement plus all the replacement parts I put in the engine (coils,plugs,tubes,h20pump,low temp thermo, aos) -- I never counted the time. Mike

I'll make room in my garage :-) mike

Engine issues are known for both Boxster's and 911 water cooled engines. They are the same basic engine and share similar issues. How often do engine failures occur, I don't know if anyone has that data. I would say the odds are certainly against it -- but depending on the failure mode there are ways to potentially mitigate it. (the IMS retrofit is one such preventive measure) BTW, if they take the car back and give you a refund -- let me know -- I will be interested in contacting them to buy the car. I am looking for a 911 with an engine issue to buy -- I rebuild the engines as a hobby and need a test vehicle. thanks, Mike

It was supposed to be new. We disassembled it and found the shaft wobbled. I had 4 of them -- they are now trophies. Cleaned out sunset last week. Mike

That is -- can a 7.8DME be used with a 2000 996? thanks, Mike

Hopefully this picture will help explain things. There need to be 8 links inclusive (If I remember correctly) between this dot and the one on the exhaust. If you are off a roller -- .i.e. the number of links between the two dots will not be exactly 8. In other words, your timing will be off. mike

Seems like it makes sense to me. With the Crank -- it knows where TDC is. And so relative to that tells you where the pistons are, etc. If the main chain were off and you were measuring at the cam (i.e. locally) -- you might be fine there, but off globally. mike

Just a guess here -- but could it be possible that while the exhaust cam is in alignment -- N/S to the valve cover, that somehow the intake is slightly off as if when the cams were put back in the intake was off a tooth or two? I'd don't know how to figure that out with out some disassembly Could you swap cam position sensors and just make sure one is not reading funky? mike

Yes -- I bought and replaced an IMS failure on a '99 Boxster Tip Mike

I replaced my water pump in two boxsters I have with one ordered from Duetsche Parts. One has failed with <2 months of driving on it -- probably less than 1000 miles. Shaft seized -- pulley ripped off by new belt. Hopefully that was all the damage that was done! Can anyone recommend a reliable source for reasonably priced water pumps? thanks, Mike

Does anyone have specifics how to test the fuel pressure sensor without the special Porsche tool. 99 Boxster Tip. Also is this tool cross used on any VW or Audi? 996-606-205-00-M14 thanks, Mike To my knowledge, the "pin out box" is unique to Porsche because it entirely matches their wiring harness and sensor lay out. Basically, the tool is a box that simply plugs into the wiring harness and then allows you to test various readings (resistance, voltage, continuity, etc.) between numbered pins without having to actually "unearth" and disconnect the sensor you want to test. Makes electrical and sensor diagnostics much quicker, but the tool is a SoB to find and costs over $800.........probably assembled by elves in the Black Forest....... Good One :-) I unearthed mine -- may do the usual..... strip it off one of my other Boxster's and see if it solves the problem :-) I always like it when they change things every so slightly from year to year to thwart my efforts. Alas, I just didn't have two handy today. Mike

Does anyone have specifics how to test the fuel pressure sensor without the special Porsche tool. 99 Boxster Tip. Also is this tool cross used on any VW or Audi? 996-606-205-00-M14 thanks, Mike

As much as this board has helped me -- it's nice to give back! Mike

So no bleed system in the earliest 986's -- or did they do it a different way. Just trying to see if I need to T a line someplace to still maintain the function. BTW, I'll need to double check tonite -- but the new coolers do not look like the will fit in the old blocks. in this case a 99 cooler (with bleed line) in a 97 block. Mike