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txhokie4life

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Everything posted by txhokie4life

  1. txhokie4life
    What is the difference in ENGINE/DMEs for a Cayman 2007 3.4S and a 2007 Boxster? What would be needed to put this in an earlier Boxter? 02-05 987? 986? thanks, M
  2. txhokie4life
    Seems to me that you are running hot. Just to give you a datapoint -- when it was 107 here in Austin last week I was stuck in stop and go traffic and my coolant rose to just to the right of the center of the 0 on the 180 mark. No where near where you are talking. When I put the heater on for additional cooling, it moved back to the center or just left of center of the 0. I'd have to check where I normally run -- but using my duramatic -- I've measured the typical 193, which I think is closer to the 8 on 180 indicator. This is an '00 3.2S that I rebuilt last winter. So all in all I'm pretty pleased to see it hold up to 107 degrees and just sitting there after running about 80 down the freeway for 30 minutes. I am using 0W-30 Brad Penn Racing oil. M
  3. txhokie4life
    I'm looking to understand what the differences (other than displacement/hp) -- what are the technical differences between the engines. A pointer to an online reference would be great. thanks, M
  4. txhokie4life
    BTW, Sunset sells this tool for about $100. That is of course if you decide you need it -- We had it -- so we used it -- I personally haven't done the cam timing -- so I can't answer. m
  5. txhokie4life
    That's one option. I guess the general question is there some kind of release from the mirror to the button on the windshield or does it slide up and off. I'm fearful of cracking the windshield since there is resistance to the slide off method. Ford uses a mirror release tool but I don't think it is used on Porsche. If I can't figure it out, I'll just remove the whole mirror and button from the glass and attach my new (used OEM) one with quality permatex mirror adhesive. Once you get it down to just the button -- I was able to pop it off using a paint/wall scraper. I tried twisting it like many folks say and I about broke my socket, and it didn't budge. Came off so easy with the scraper by putting it at the edge of the button and the glass and tapping on it with a mallet. Doesn't "feel" too good to do that -- btu worked nicely with maybe 3 medium taps. Good luck with it. m
  6. txhokie4life
    way cool! m
  7. txhokie4life
    The car was flooded with fresh water 2 weeks ago -- I wouldn't worry about rust if it were cleaned out soon. Heck give it to me -- I'll take my chances :-) I'll be in DC in 2 weeks -- I take it then! mike
  8. txhokie4life
    Any chance the insurance company will let you buy it back and turn it into a track car :-) Might be able to get it pretty darn cheap. m
  9. txhokie4life
    If it is constant -- might be something else, but on start up I believe it is the AOS (air oil seperator) -- Mine has a nice whine until the DME decides to lower idle (3.2S Boxster) m
  10. txhokie4life
    Passenger side. thanks!!! Backwards on a Boxster right :-)
  11. txhokie4life
    what does a system like that run? -- are you using that with your 2.7L DME instead of a 996 DME? I ask because I might find myself with a 996 Engine and no DME, and was wondering what my options were. Do I swap it in a Boxster, another 996, heart transplant for an older 911, etc. m $5500 out the door? what did it cost to ship it? As far as the number of miles you can also check the number of hours the motor has. I assume that is stored in the DME -- but he does have that with this engine. mike
  12. txhokie4life
    You have full control over the fans with a Duramatic as well. You could then even monitor the exact engine and oil temperatures. m
  13. txhokie4life
    $5500 out the door? what did it cost to ship it? m As far as the number of miles you can also check the number of hours the motor has. I assume that is stored in the DME -- but he does have that with this engine. mike
  14. txhokie4life
    $5500 out the door? what did it cost to ship it? m
  15. txhokie4life
    I too used LnEngineering for the IMS -- they also have the ability to relign the walls with Nikasils I did not need these but was prepared to do it when I thought I had a cracked cylinder wall m
  16. txhokie4life
    You are Spot on here -- this was the #1 concern of ours -- we must have practiced a dozen times external to the engine, and sweated out the process when we did it for real. We crafted our own little tool to do this and used light and mirrors to confirm the "wrist pin clip" was properly seated... but what a PITA! Rings were tough to get on as well -- but with some patience -- then we got it after a few tries on each piston. Almost had to go the Nikisil route :-) but didn't have to experience that his go round. We also had some trickiness getting the new IMS seated properly with the Timing Chain -- we had to disassemble the chain and redo it. Not sure why it didn't go right the first time. but dropped in effortlessly the second time. Jake -- thanks for taking the time to respond -- you are an invaluable resource - I design computer chips for a living -- we don't get to look at or feel anything -- so I guess I'm used to a little blind faith :-) Still doesn't make you anymore comfortable though...... thanks, Mike
  17. txhokie4life
    Jake, Having rebuilt a 3.2L S with a young mechanic only familiar with air cooled 911/914 engines, and this being my only engine rebuild experience, what in your mind makes these engines difficult to work on? i'm not questioning your wisdom, experience or opinion, I just don't know any better -- and I am curious to know what specifically I should have considered hard. In some ways it all was, and in other ways everything seemed so well thought out and engineered that things just made sense. I'm sure our success was somewhat luck, a lot of ignorance and naivety, and a good bit of diligence and inherent skill by my colleague. I will say making the connection of the connecting rod and the pistons and putting the bushing on with our homemade tool was a little harrowing, but most other things seemed reasonable. thanks, Mike :renntech:
  18. txhokie4life
    Someone will be able to answer definitively -- but i do not think it is possible. The heads sit along side the block and you would have to get access from the side. mike
  19. txhokie4life
    You probably won't know what the real cause is until you pull the engine. And depending on your repair choices -- you may never choose to find out. Either way you are looking at a complete rebuild most likely, salvage engine, or crate engine from Porsche. Depending on who does the work, guessing ~$6-8K, ~6k-$7k, $11-13K, respectively. I bought an '00S with a blown freeze plug in the heads, but I didn't have any cylinder or spark plug problems. Root cause was a bad water pump. My friend had a shattered spark plug, but he had the engine replaced by the dealer -- he never had it disassembled. If you are in/around Austin, Texas -- I can help you, otherwise good luck, M
  20. txhokie4life
    Negotiate your best deal -- then get cold feet about the new engine, start to walk out -- when the call you back just whine about how uncomfortable you are about another engine failure and get them to give you a 100K warranty or comparable. m
  21. txhokie4life
    bummer -- I had a machine shop weld mine back in. why take the chance it pops out at a less opportune time. it was cheap (<$100) m
  22. txhokie4life
    bites, yes, but....... Worst day would have been your buddy drives home and you didn't know he was plowed until you end up cleaning other bio-hazards from the carpet..... then it wouldn't matter what your AC unit was doing. Let the AC unit dry out -- maybe it will work just fine..... Then hit your buddy up for the cleaning bill -- or make him pay for the drinks next time AND the cab ride home. m
  23. txhokie4life
    Sorry to hear about your failure.... I second the Sunset -- I was quoted about the same price for a different failure mechanism. We rebuilt it ourselves -- securing parts from Jeff at Sunset. Heck you can order an X81 (is that the right number) for ~11K but you'd have to pay core charges, -- but you could probably put one of those in for $17k and have close to 400Hp. m
  24. txhokie4life
    I recommend the six pack before the repair -- that way your sober enough after the repair to jump right in and start driving your beauty! (that an you won't notice the scrapes on the knuckles quite so much :-) m
  25. txhokie4life
    Do you have the kicker amp model number and where did you tap into the speaker wires for the high-level input? Also where did you end up placing your amp?, was this in addition to the non-bose amp? Any details would be great, since this is what I want to do to my 2005 997 C2, Thanks! -Paul The non bose amp is left intact as it must power all speakers except the sub.The new amp can be mounted in the front trunk. You can tap into rear speakers in front trunk after speaker lines exit from the non bose poweramp. The facory rear speakers still function. They do not make my kicker amp anymore but there are many good choices. See crutchfield. I used a 6.5 inch shallow mount kicker sub I got from crutchfield for about 100 dollars. I suggest having a qualified installer doing the job, although this not that difficult. Got Pix?
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