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rizzo

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Everything posted by rizzo

  1. Pagid are OEM. I'd use the HAWK low dust formula. Cross Drilled rotors are more prone to issues and should be inspected more often. Slotted are the way to go if you actually need something in that direction.
  2. Ok thanks Loren. What sheet is this taken from? I have the wiring diagrams for my 04 S but could not find this sheet. Also, I may need some help for this particular project I am thinking of doing. I plan on installing a Kahtec Blinking Smart Stop Plus Flasher. Their installation calls for the cutting of the power supply to both the left and right side of the brake light circuit. Then, only one supply side is used for both left and right brake lights via the controller supplied by Kahtec. My question is, does the wiring harness split into left and right sides from a relay or module before it heads out to the tail light assemblies or is there two different supplies to the brake circuit from a relay or module? Here is Kahtec's wiring diagram for the install. Note the fact that both power supplies are to be severed (one is used to power the flasher controller). My concern is that the computer will see the fact there is no power to one side or the other and throw out a warning to the dashboard about a light being out. My goal is to tap into the power before any split to left and right sides to see if I can install this device that way. If the left and right sides are in fact coming off a common supply knowing the location would be helpful too! Any help is very much appreciated. SmartStop_Plus_Install.pdf
  3. I cant find a wiring diagram of the brake, tail, and turn signal lights. A diagram of the multi pin connector at the brake light housing would be awesome for what I have planned.
  4. When the new element arrived it already had a bead of sealant applied to it. Working on a video tutorial of the pneumatic spring replacement and I'll include a closeup of the sealant. Quite easy change out once you get over the fear of killing the car.
  5. There is a ball and socket joint that is hidden from your view. Once you have the two screws removed, take a firm hold of the entire assembly and pull it directly towards you. It will free itself with some moderate pressure. Hope that helps.
  6. My dealer was 2K for parts and labor. Suncoast shows the parts for 530.00. Check them out. Your front diff may be next... 91K miles and just had mine replaced. Ouch!!
  7. Loren, Can you get me a part number for the deformation element as seen in circle 3-3 of the attached pdf file? Also, Can you get a part number for the trim retention clips (triangular in shape) for the D-Pillar trim. Is there any special type of sealant (Porsche recommended) that should be used to reseal the deformation element? 2004 Cayenne S Many thanks! -Rizzo9PA GROUP 5 BODY.pdf Edited to add model year. D'oh!
  8. My front diff began this noise about 12K miles and ten months ago. Dealer just diagnosed that the diff is failing as there was a lot of metallic flake in the fluid. 2500 parts and labor.
  9. 2004S with 92K and the front differential is fubar. Wonder if the new one (AX really a rebuild from Porsche, correct?) will last only 90K+/- too. So very frustrating. Anyone else seen one go in this mileage range? Never been on the track, flogged, or driven to its limits. First owner was a soccer mom type and it was pampered from day one.
  10. Got it... then I have to wonder about the accuracy of this listing from a trusted parts supplier.
  11. Loren, are you asking about residence because running without any cat converter is illegal in the USA? The secondary cat delete pipes available from vendors are legal, correct?
  12. No. That set of triple square bits does not have an open center. (Edited because I don't know how to spell) Thanks Rizzo!! Much appreciated... does it has the tamper proof desing (indent in the middle)?
  13. So now it's my turn. 2,050.00 for part and labor. I asked about these T pieces and according the the service writer via the tech these parts are rubber and they have not yet experienced a problem with them. He continued that they are on the backside of the engine and they didn't have any info on cost to replace. (I'm not kidding) He said they would have to just look at how long it would take to "get to them" and estimate labor. He kept telling me that these parts are not plastic but rubber. Further stated that the intake manifold would not have to be replaced to access them if they needed to be replaced later. Should I keep pressing? Also camshaft position sensor (CPS) should be replaced. (Here's the part about this that pissed me off) They recommend an oil change because dirty oil can cause a bad signal to the sensor. I changed the oil less than 4K miles ago and kept getting the CEL with camshaft position sensor code. The diagnostic scenario described to me tells me they never checked the sensor on the PWIWS to see if it was bad or not and just assumed I was not maintaining the car properly. So I guess it's possible I'll replace the CPS and still get a CEL because the CPS was pointing to a real fault that they have overlooked. Thoughts from others about this? I had this problem with my Cayenne S. It is not limited to the turbos only.
  14. I got mine from Autozone. It was a Bosch filer and it took one working day for them to get it in.
  15. What was done for a lighting wiring harness? Did either of you splice in or use an adapter for trailer lights?
  16. Hammering should not be required. Do you have the XZN bit for removing the calipers? The rotors will come off with a slight amount of prying.
  17. M16 XZN I bought this set and it's been plenty good for me.
  18. If you mean the blade insert it really is just a grab and pull removal, no tools needed. At the center of the black plastic cover there is a clip that holds the middle of the wiper blade. To install the replacement wiper blade just snap the new one back into that same clip. Use consistent pressure on both the removal and the replacement and you will be fine. You're on the right track. The bolt under the plastic cover needs to come off, then with a little pressure you can get the entire arm off. It pulls straight up from the bolt perspective. I tried to replace the rear wiper this weekend but had to stop and come back inside to consult this forum. I do not really see any bolt or screw in the wiper arm or cover. Where exactly are you referring? Are you referring to the bolt on the rotating axis? If so, are you suggesting we take the arm off from the car to work on it? Can I just lift the plastic arm and work on it? I had to use a puller tool to remove the wiper arm. Mine was slightly corroded under the nut that holds the wiper arm in place. No amount of hand pressure would free the arm from the drive mechanism for me. A two arm puller did the trick. I cleaned everything up and reassembled after installing the new wiper blade. And FWIW... a replacement wiper blade (Bosch Brand) from Auto Zone site about one quarter of an inch higher than the original. If the Porsche part sits lower it might be worth it to replace it with an OEM part IMO.
  19. Weird... Loren, did you put this up? I didn't create this post. At leas I don't think I was awake this early! HA!
  20. This is the support topic for the DIY Tutorial Cabin Air Filter 2004 S. Please post here if you have any questions or feedback.
  21. Okay folks... Here's what I did to replace the cabin air filter in my 2004 Cayenne S One oddity I discovered is that the two screws holding the filter box access panel in place are not a standard size. 5mm and 6mm do not fit. 5 is too small and 6 is too big. Same thing with 3/16 and 1/4 in nut drivers. These are what I will call the Porsche Metric system Since I didn't have the correct size driver to remove the two screws I used an ugly pair of pliers as seen in the first image. Thanks to the fact these are plastic parts there was no effort involved to remove the two screws. The bits of stuff I used to do the job. T20 torx driver, inspection mirror, streamlight scorpion, ugly pliers, and BOSCH filter You can see one screw is almost all the way out Here the filter is partially removed Here you can see the alignment pegs and the courtesy light I disconnected to make it easier to move the panel out of the way of the outgoing filter. The wire may get a little tight if you don't disconnect it for this process. Bonus!!! I discovered there are two 12 volt outlets under dash on the passenger side! Saweeet!
  22. I can confirm the reluctance to turning the tool hard enough to get the snap. I swear when I heard it I thought I had broken something. Until it snapped into place I was getting lots of errors sometimes induced by simply driving over a bump. Once it "KAAAA BLAMMMMMED" into place all has been well. So did the dealer never get it seated properly this whole time?
  23. Bill, can you report back as to whether or not the drive-shaft replacement solved the noise problem or not? You described a squeal vs. a roar. Another forum member has described a "roar" similar to my own description but after looking at the car for two days his dealer said it is the differential. Here's the link to the post: Sound at all similar to your experience? Please advise. Many thanks! KR
  24. Any of the mechanics on this forum have input about which servo motors are more likely to cause the problem? My 04 S has this problem. I have read the repair manual but it is quite vague about where the servos are and how many their are. The manual only discusses how to remove one in general relating to the heater via removal of the glove box. Are all the servos the same size and part so they are interchangeable one location to the next? I'd attempt this myself if I don't have to go any deeper than the glove box. Thanks!!
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