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drem914

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Everything posted by drem914

  1. Ivanover, Please do a search for system upgrade and there are some very good write ups covering the subject. it all depends on how far you want to go and how much you want to tear in to the the car.
  2. Glad I found this as i will have to do the same check list. used the car last week and the top operated perfectly fine. Today, go to operate the roof like normal, brake engaged, engine on, pull the release lever, the windows drop and then go open the roof and nothing. No top motor sound, no warning light on the dash the latch is released. Nothing. I will start with the fuses and go from there and then start checking the micro switches. I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks,
  3. Found out on my own this morning. They do without spacers , but there wasn't much room left. They really fill out to the fender lip nicely.
  4. Juniinc, how thick of a spacer? 5, 7 or 13mm?
  5. I'm curious about the 30,000 mile expectation. I know of no one who owns a Porsche who gets anywhere near that from a set of tires - nothing that even approaches 20, 000 miles. Do you auto-x or track your car? I have always heard you usually replace the rears twice as often as the fronts. I got my 2001 with 75k on it. I now have 115k on it. It came with PS2's when purchased. I am now just replacing the fronts for getting close to the wear bars. The tires are still in spec. That's 35k on a pair of Michelins. The rears were replaced w/ Falken 452's (after about 20K because of a nail.) The new rears already have 15k on them and the they are at about 70% wear left. The car is a daily driver that I put about 20K a year on. I see no reason you can't get 30k out a pair of tires if you aren't excessively throwing the car around the curves and your roads are in generally good shape.
  6. I have a 2001 986 2.7l. I just picked up some near new cup II replicas from Milla Miglia w/ new tires tires and want to make sure these will fit. FR - 235/40/18 81/2Jx18H2 ET52. RR- 285/30/18 10Jx18H2 ET47. From everything I have seen here, the rears "should" fit (I have already cinched back the e-brake line.) I was concerned about the fronts. Do I need to shim for clearance? I was concerned about rubbing on the inside of the wells. The car is on stock springs and struts. Thanks,
  7. I have a similar issue but don't know if it is the regulator or not. I also have a 2001 Boxster symptoms: 1. pull interior door handle and window drops 1/2" 2. pull exterior door handle door drops 1/2" 3. let go of the handle (interior or exterior) and window goes right back up. 4. once door is open need to push the plastic clip (at the door latch) slightly for window to stay down the requisite 1/2" to let the door close. 5. full window up or down function works fine from the center console. the door lock clip seems to be sticking. i will try some lube when i get home this afternoon. any other suggestions? everything else seems to be working normally. thanks,
  8. Try Vision Motorsport in Laguna Hills on Granite - theirs is around $200, so is Hergascheimer's <sp?> in Lake Forest.
  9. where in so cal? Try Vision Motorsports in Laguna Hills if you are down in the orange county area.
  10. 100k miles just happened to me in March. I bought the car a year and half ago after my wife brought it home as a birthday present. It had 75K miles with a complete service record, looked immaculate and was owned and maintained by an engineer. No I did not keep it then, the local ford dealer had it on the lot and my wife got them to let her take it home and park it in the garage with a big red bow on the top. Needless to say I was shocked when I opened the garage door that evening. I wound up driving it around for the evening before I had t give it back. I actually bought the car about a month later after watching it sit on their lot and with the economy spirolling down got it for a good price. Since then, I have done some hacks on the car and some minor appearance upgrades (see signature line. The only "ugh-oh" maintenance moment cam at about 97K when I noticed a small oil leak on the garage that wasn't there the day before. This resulted in the RMS being replaced, and since it was open and the engine dropped. A motor mount replacement, new clutch plate, a water pump and oh yeah an oil change. So far that has been the only "Big" repair. I was expecting something to happen as some point anyway from my reading, so it was not a huge surprise. Other than that, it has been a blast as my daily driver (replacing my 914) - as seen by the 25K miles I have put on so far. This last weekend we got a chance to tour the back country roads of San Diego with the PCA out of San Diego along with 60+ other Porsches. mt. palomar That has been one of the most enjoyable days of driving ever. I am sure there are more to come - time to add that ROW-M030 package and........ :D
  11. What are you powering this sub with and have you redone the other speakers in the car?
  12. Lacquer thinner will cause the plastic window to haze. You can try to see if the haze that it causes can be polished out by experimenting on the two small "ears" that are hidden on the inside of the top, about halfway up each side. You will find the two small clear plastic "ears" directly underneath the black vinyl ears that cover them. Regards, Maurice. Thanks Maurice, I'll do that.
  13. Well, before I went and spent several hundred of dollars on a replacement Gahh top or swap out the top for a newer top with glass panel, I went and used a seam sealer on my soft top w/ plastic rear window. I had a few areas at the bottom of the window where I was experiencing leakage on to the rear deck. I tried to be as careful as possible using a syringe to apply the liquid. The seam seal, when wet, cleans up with soap and water, but after it dries the manufacture recommends using lacquer thinner to remove any excess. As part of the initial clean up I got some of the sealer a little further away from the edge of the canvas than I wanted to. I want to remove it in those areas. Will the lacquer thinner damage or haze the rear plastic window. If it does create a haze can a plastic treatment polish out the haze or scratching. Any insight would be appreciated.
  14. As part of the ongoing amp replacement and rear speaker saga, I have a question about ohm ratings for rear speakers. I have replaced the factory 4 channel with a factory 6 channel. I am now looking at making new rear mounting plates for the Polk DB351 rear speakers (2 pairs at 4 ohm rating each) wired the same as the stock speakers are. The question I have is as follows: If the rear speakers are wired the same as the stock, what effect on the 6 channel M490 amp does using 4 ohm speakers instead of the 6 ohm rated factory OEM speakers. Will I damage the factory amp? Will the speakers be under or over powered compared the front DB451 speakers?
  15. To apply the seam sealer, for those of us that have leaking seams, is it applied to the topside of the seal or to the back side as described on the bottle? This weekend I tried to get around the backside or inside of the seam from inside the car and it is nearly impossible. Any recommendations from those that have done this? Other than this my top is in fine conditions and I would like to get a few more years of use out of it.
  16. Is there a similar package for the audio wiring harness plugs?
  17. If you find some one to provide the swing arm let me know. I did the same thing and broke the arm itself. Still have the tabs, but the "u" shaped arm broke in three.
  18. Thanks for all the good info. My newly acquired M490 6x40 says "Cabrio", so hopefully the crossovers are set more for soft-top/open-air driving, than hard top. I will be routing the rear speaker leads through the grommet next to the accelerator as shown above. Harvey is sending me out a 48" harness extension so I can run it to the amp inconspicuously. Now to find the time this Sunday to do this without melting under our current heat wave out here. Following that will be the dash speaker up-grade, rear speaker upgrade and a new windshield :angry: (see other thread)
  19. Thanks I'll do that. I never opted for a windshield coverage that i know of. If I If I have to claim my deductible then I wont do it. We'll see what AAA says in the morning.
  20. A little while ago I was replacing my windshield wipers and made a big mistake. While had one of the wipers off I let go of the arm and it hit the windshield. The result was a nice 5" spider web from the point of impact. :angry: Anyone here have a recommendation for a good replacement shop in Southern California, preferably in Central or South Orange County. I don't want any shop that is going to just clip the antenna lead and not hook it back up or have the screen leak after they are done. I want it fixed once and fixed right. Thanks for any help.
  21. Any idea what the part no. is for that? I'm going to check my parts catalog right now. Also, would i want a MY 2003 harness so it covers all 6 channels from HU or did they already come fully wired that way already in 2001? Depends on what you have. Did you orginally have the M490 sound package with the 4x40 AMP and you are upgrading to a newer 6x40 AMP? Is the 6x40 AMP new or puchased used? Did your rear speaker kit come with your car as an option or did you purchase the PNA 986 KIT or the after market speakers from Harvey Peck at PNP. When I upgraded my AMP my rear speakers were already installed in the brown plug in the back of the radio. I purchase a long extension from Harvey for $30 or so. The brown plug snaps into to the extension and I routed as I indicated above. I have some short extensions if you want to make your own longer one out of it. The pin assignments for the rears for your new 6x40 AMP are different as well. What is the Part no. for your new 6x40 AMP and I'll get the PIN assignments for you. You also have to cut off a male key on your new 6x40 AMP so your existing AMP harness will mate properly with it. See red circle in photo below. 1. I had the original M490 amp 4x40 in the car. I am upgrading to a newer 6x40 amp purchased used. 2. I have installed the OEM PNA 986 rear speaker package into my factory storage box and wired to the rear of the Factory Becker 220 HU. The package came with the 12" extension to hook to the amp 3. The part no. for the amp is 996.645.323.00. I have no problem shaving the the male key so the amp will connect.
  22. Any idea what the part no. is for that? I'm going to check my parts catalog right now. Also, would i want a MY 2003 harness so it covers all 6 channels from HU or did they already come fully wired that way already in 2001?
  23. thanks, I went looking last night when i got home before seeing this but did not look behind the battery. There is the grommet to the left of the battery with a huge wire harness coming through, but I did not see or look for one behind the battery. Thanks, BTW is there supposed to be a top to the cabin air filter?
  24. I just picked up a 6 x40 M490 amp to replace my 4 x40 M490. I currently have my rear speakers wired the HU. I want to know how to run the rear speakers to the 6 channel amp. I have not gotten under the dash yet to see how to route the wires through the firewall into the amp in the front trunk. I wanted to know if anyone had any suggestions like pull wires on how to get the wires into there and will I have to take anything more off than the support bracket for the amp and the cover plate to the battery. I know I will have to disconnect the current connection to the HU and I have the extra connector to wire into the plug on the amp. And before any one says anything about changing the amp for a more powerful aftermarket unit, I just did not want to get into the full wiring of the installation yet. I figured the rear speaker could also use a power bump before I upgrade the speakers them selves to Polk db401's in the front and pairs of db351's for the rear.
  25. You need to take the carpet panel off the bulk head in the front trunk to see the path. it will become very evident once you do that. Search some of the other stereo upgrade threads and you will see photos of the cable run locations.
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