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Steve Tinker

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About Steve Tinker

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  • Birthday 12/30/1946

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  • From
    Brisbane, Australia
  • Porsche Club
    Other
  • Present cars
    2001 Porsche Boxster S, 2009 Mazda3, 1998 Mitsubishi Magna
  • Former cars
    Alfa Romeo 1750 GTV (3), Alfa Romeo Alfetta 1800GT, Mazda MX5, Mazda RX8.
  1. Cefalu... Can you remind us of the miles / history of your car...... Is a worn IMS tensioner a typical "weak" point of the valve tensioning system ??
  2. Thanks for the info logray - yep, that sounds about right, $US100 will be the equivalent to just over a $million in Australia.......???? Well, at least 2-3 times what you guys pay. But if spending $US300 helps Cefalu startup rattle and wear on the tensioner pads, its cheap.
  3. Cefalu.... Keep us informed of the outcome of the upgrade - theres quite a few of us that have the (initial) startup noise and I for one would appreciate your findings. As a matter of interest, whats the price of the new tensioners - they are probably about $1,2 million here in Australia, so it would be cheaper for me to fly to Sunset Porsche and pick up the things if your mods are successful !!!
  4. This is not an uncommon occurance during winter months - I'm a big believer in taking the car (any car) for a good long run (say 50 km) at highway speeds every week or so. Even revving the engine to 5-6000 rpm occasionaly during a 20km urban drive does not generate much extra heat in the system - afterall, its only for a couple of seconds, then its back to the mundane 3,000 rpm chugalong for the rest of the journey.
  5. I've had the Zimmermann drilled rotors (mine is an S model) for the last 3 years with no problems....I didn't know you could get drilled rotors to fit the base Boxster. As an aside, it would be better to install the Zimmermann Z coat options as the top hats are coated to help stop rust.
  6. This has been one very interesting take on our favourite (now infamous) subject........ One thing I didn't realise untill I read Bill's analysis #56 above was that the IMS bearing actually sat in the oil ... must have got under my radar. It would have been interesting to have been the proverbial fly on the wall when the Budget War for Engineers vs Accountant met to discuss the costing for the (then) new M96 engine - I'll bet there was a lot of unhappy engine men when given the strict $$ budget to work with. You will find that most engineers will give you a 100 carate design (even when yo
  7. I would first try bleeding the clutch hydraulic system to make sure there is clean fluid and no air bubbles in the lines. If that does not fix the problem, it could be a faulty slave cylinder mounted at the clutch bell housing behind the L/H/side rear wheel. If neither of the above, the clutch itself could be at fault.
  8. The static current draw of 1.8 amps is a concern. For the test below, make sure the ignition is switched off and the key removed (car unlocked) when you checked the draw, both doors & boots closed etc !! For a starter, with the multi-meter connected, start removing each fuse one by one and the faulty (?) circuit will be isolated when you see the draw reduced or dissapear. The fuse you remove should give you an indication of what piece of equipment is pulling the exessive load. By the way, is an aftermarket stereo, lights, alarm or tracker fitted - current draw is sometimes the case of
  9. So, are you guys saying that when the alternator diode pack or regulator fails, the dash mounted charge light does NOT illuminate indicating a faulty charging circuit ?? Usually this warning light illuminates when the charge voltage is less than the battery voltage.....which is exactly whats happening. Or am I missing something?
  10. I don't think (road) speed has anything to do with it... The oil pressure pump is directly connected to the engine - so engine speed determines oil pressure. The higher the engine revs, the higher the oil pressure (up to the blow off pressure valve built into the pump). Cold (thicker) oil will show a higher reading than hot oil will. And idle oil pressure is not the vital one - the important reading for a healthy engine oil pressure should be read above ~3000 rpm with a hot engine.
  11. A fully charged battery in good health should read 12.6 v min. at the terminals - 12 v is too low and may indicate a low charge or a faulty plate. The most cost effective is to replace the battery with a "borrowed" known good one and see if the fault re-occurs.
  12. I would start by disconnecting & giving your battery a good charge with a battery charger (not a maintainer) for at least 12-14 hours. Your winter hibernation may have been the final straw especially if the battery is 4 years or older. If you disconnect the battery, make sure you read your handbook,re: have the radio code and don't close the front hood. If you have a multi-meter, you can do a rough check if your alternator is working. After fully charging your battery, wait a few minutes and you should have at least 12.6 v at the battery terminals. Anything less and its a faulty battery.
  13. That's very true - sorry, I was thinking of my Boxster S siamesed pipes & I didn't read the OP's first post correctly. The exhaust system on the 996 crosses over, so if the drivers side pipe is smoking, the problem usually is from the right hand bank of cylinders.... There is a similar post on Rennlist.com titled "help - coolant in oil & smoke" on page 3 of the 996 Forum. It describes how the owner found a cracked cylinder sleeve - interesting reading - though I sincerely hope this isn't the case for Alf....
  14. AOS (air / oil separator) can cause the smoking at startup..... With the engine idling, try removing your oil fill cap - if its difficult to remove (because of a vacuum) then there is a good chance your AOS has failed. If it has failed, your throttle body will be oily and need cleaning too
  15. Roadrunner - you don't seem to be listening... What's good for a Celica does not work for a Porsche Boxster. Its your money, but the answer(s) to your question has been answered by a couple of very experienced people.
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