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Steve Tinker

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Everything posted by Steve Tinker

  1. Steve Tinker
    Cefalu... Can you remind us of the miles / history of your car...... Is a worn IMS tensioner a typical "weak" point of the valve tensioning system ??
  2. Steve Tinker
    Thanks for the info logray - yep, that sounds about right, $US100 will be the equivalent to just over a $million in Australia.......???? Well, at least 2-3 times what you guys pay. But if spending $US300 helps Cefalu startup rattle and wear on the tensioner pads, its cheap.
  3. Steve Tinker
    Cefalu.... Keep us informed of the outcome of the upgrade - theres quite a few of us that have the (initial) startup noise and I for one would appreciate your findings. As a matter of interest, whats the price of the new tensioners - they are probably about $1,2 million here in Australia, so it would be cheaper for me to fly to Sunset Porsche and pick up the things if your mods are successful !!!
  4. Steve Tinker
    This is not an uncommon occurance during winter months - I'm a big believer in taking the car (any car) for a good long run (say 50 km) at highway speeds every week or so. Even revving the engine to 5-6000 rpm occasionaly during a 20km urban drive does not generate much extra heat in the system - afterall, its only for a couple of seconds, then its back to the mundane 3,000 rpm chugalong for the rest of the journey.
  5. Steve Tinker
    I've had the Zimmermann drilled rotors (mine is an S model) for the last 3 years with no problems....I didn't know you could get drilled rotors to fit the base Boxster. As an aside, it would be better to install the Zimmermann Z coat options as the top hats are coated to help stop rust.
  6. Steve Tinker
    This has been one very interesting take on our favourite (now infamous) subject........ One thing I didn't realise untill I read Bill's analysis #56 above was that the IMS bearing actually sat in the oil ... must have got under my radar. It would have been interesting to have been the proverbial fly on the wall when the Budget War for Engineers vs Accountant met to discuss the costing for the (then) new M96 engine - I'll bet there was a lot of unhappy engine men when given the strict $$ budget to work with. You will find that most engineers will give you a 100 carate design (even when you don't actually need 100 carat job) with scant regard to costing - its those **** bean counters that cut, strip and force inferior goods into production..... They've been a pain all of my working life !!
  7. Steve Tinker
    I would first try bleeding the clutch hydraulic system to make sure there is clean fluid and no air bubbles in the lines. If that does not fix the problem, it could be a faulty slave cylinder mounted at the clutch bell housing behind the L/H/side rear wheel. If neither of the above, the clutch itself could be at fault.
  8. Steve Tinker
    The static current draw of 1.8 amps is a concern. For the test below, make sure the ignition is switched off and the key removed (car unlocked) when you checked the draw, both doors & boots closed etc !! For a starter, with the multi-meter connected, start removing each fuse one by one and the faulty (?) circuit will be isolated when you see the draw reduced or dissapear. The fuse you remove should give you an indication of what piece of equipment is pulling the exessive load. By the way, is an aftermarket stereo, lights, alarm or tracker fitted - current draw is sometimes the case of an el-cheapo installation....
  9. Steve Tinker
    So, are you guys saying that when the alternator diode pack or regulator fails, the dash mounted charge light does NOT illuminate indicating a faulty charging circuit ?? Usually this warning light illuminates when the charge voltage is less than the battery voltage.....which is exactly whats happening. Or am I missing something?
  10. Steve Tinker
    I don't think (road) speed has anything to do with it... The oil pressure pump is directly connected to the engine - so engine speed determines oil pressure. The higher the engine revs, the higher the oil pressure (up to the blow off pressure valve built into the pump). Cold (thicker) oil will show a higher reading than hot oil will. And idle oil pressure is not the vital one - the important reading for a healthy engine oil pressure should be read above ~3000 rpm with a hot engine.
  11. Steve Tinker
    A fully charged battery in good health should read 12.6 v min. at the terminals - 12 v is too low and may indicate a low charge or a faulty plate. The most cost effective is to replace the battery with a "borrowed" known good one and see if the fault re-occurs.
  12. Steve Tinker
    I would start by disconnecting & giving your battery a good charge with a battery charger (not a maintainer) for at least 12-14 hours. Your winter hibernation may have been the final straw especially if the battery is 4 years or older. If you disconnect the battery, make sure you read your handbook,re: have the radio code and don't close the front hood. If you have a multi-meter, you can do a rough check if your alternator is working. After fully charging your battery, wait a few minutes and you should have at least 12.6 v at the battery terminals. Anything less and its a faulty battery. If OK, you then connect the battery & run the engine, you should have between 13.8 v and 14.3 v at the battery terminals. This indicates the alternator is charging. This is not a perfect system test (it really needs load testing), but it will give you some idea of the alternator's ability....
  13. Steve Tinker
    That's very true - sorry, I was thinking of my Boxster S siamesed pipes & I didn't read the OP's first post correctly. The exhaust system on the 996 crosses over, so if the drivers side pipe is smoking, the problem usually is from the right hand bank of cylinders.... There is a similar post on Rennlist.com titled "help - coolant in oil & smoke" on page 3 of the 996 Forum. It describes how the owner found a cracked cylinder sleeve - interesting reading - though I sincerely hope this isn't the case for Alf....
  14. Steve Tinker
    AOS (air / oil separator) can cause the smoking at startup..... With the engine idling, try removing your oil fill cap - if its difficult to remove (because of a vacuum) then there is a good chance your AOS has failed. If it has failed, your throttle body will be oily and need cleaning too
  15. Steve Tinker
    Roadrunner - you don't seem to be listening... What's good for a Celica does not work for a Porsche Boxster. Its your money, but the answer(s) to your question has been answered by a couple of very experienced people.
  16. Steve Tinker
    Darrin - if the temps are fine untill you hit traffic, the cooling fans should drop the temperatures to normal. If not, the radiators and the A/C condensers (mounted in front of them) could be blocked. You ca'nt see this from the front of the car - the blockage is caused by debris between the 2 radiators ( 2 each side of the car). My Boxster S had so much c**** between the rads that it was running hot on a normally cool day. To access the rads, the front bumper must be removed. and the rads seperated..... Hope this helps.
  17. Steve Tinker
    NVR2LA8, i would seriously consider buying the Bentley Boxster Service Manual when (if) you finally decide to buy the car - at less than $85 its worth every penny and saved me literally $thousands over the last few years..... Assuming you have a quality torque wrench, 4 jackstands and a decent set of sockets you are ready to go. The only other item I found invaluable is the Durametric diagnostic tool - I think it was sent to me here in Australia for less than $300 - a really helpfull piece of gear and Durametric were great to deal with too.
  18. Steve Tinker
    Dave, the biggest concern is why you are losing coolant! I would top it up with distilled water - the amount you add shouldn't make a big difference to the overall coolant quality. In future, the genuine Porsche coolant would be the best substitute - adding another brand could cause "gelling" and considering that the Porsche coolant will last for quite a number of years, why change......
  19. Steve Tinker
    A loose spark plug will cause a whistling sound - so I would re-check the torque of each plug..... The sound could also be caused by a failing AOS (air/oil seperator). To check, remove the oil filler cap with the engine idling - if the cap is difficult to remove (a vacuum) then there is a good chance the AOS is on its way out. Are you experiencing a smoking exhaust at startup - this is another classic of a failed AOS. Hope this helps.....
  20. Steve Tinker
    Although I havn't actually replaced my AOS (it was replaced @ 40,000 miles under the Porsche extended warranty), Mike Fochs "how to" pretty much covers it, although I believe the hardest part is re-installing the spring clips. I've heard of shops here in Australia replacing a suspect sqealing clutch and then ringing the owner to say they have also just found a faulty AOS as well. So you get slugged for a clutch that didn't need replacing as well as a new AOS.....
  21. Steve Tinker
    Regarding your AOS - if I read your post correctly you tried to remove the oil cap with the engine running and it was difficult to remove. This a good indication you have a failing AOS. The other clues when an AOS fails is it can give off a squealing sound and also the engine smokes from the exhaust on startup..... DON'T wait too long before replacing the AOS as in extreme conditions, enough oil can be dragged up into the combustion chambers and will hydrolock - you don't want a bent con rod......
  22. Steve Tinker
    Not all countries have the clutch switch - here in Australia we don't have it. With a multi-meter, check to see if you have a voltage @ the switch. Maybe you have an imported car.......
  23. Steve Tinker
    If the noise is actually caused by a strong vacuum and the oil cap is difficult to remove with the engine running, there's a good chance that your AOS is failing. A faulty AOS is also usually accompanied by exhaust smoke on startup.,
  24. Steve Tinker
    The brake wear indicator(s) have worn through and require replacing. Basically they are a plastc covered electrical wire (connected in series) which wears through just before the brake pad gets to its lower limit, thus saving metal on metal wear in the disc rotors. Each brake has 2 wire sensors which illuminate the warning light when they are worn through - so you will have to check both front and back pads and sensors - replace as required. You probably disconnected / reconnected them when you replaced the front pads. They are a Porsche spare part and are available from any supplier.....
  25. Steve Tinker
    jbs911 - welcome to one of the best boards - there's heaps of really clever people here who no doubt will chime in. It sounds like you may have a faulty sender unit, you can always get the unit replaced under warranty, BUT, the only sure way to see correct oil pressure is to temporarily connect up a mechanical pressure gauge to where the original sender unit fits. At least you will know for sure that you have good oil pressure without reverting to guessing...... When you fit the mech gauge, the engine doesn't need to be hot - as a rough rule of thumb, oil pressure at idle with cold oil is about the same pressure as hot oil @ 3000 rpm. Keep us informed of the outcome.
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