Kim

Stumpjumper & O.E. - Thanks for the quick response. I tend to save things like that, also. Few greater satisfactions than going to my toolbox in the middle of a project .... and pulling out exactly the obscure thing I need to finish (or salvage) a project. Well, maybe a greater satisfaction is then getting to point out to my wife, "see, its not all junk after all". Kim 2000 Cab

For Dell .... or Orient Express .... or anyone else who has installed the Becker Aux in cable to run an iPod through a CDR-220. I received my cable from Becker today, along with the pin-in directions .... very specific. Instructions for installing an external audio source (MP3) "Locate set of female RCA jacks from modification kit": (I assume they mean the bundled set: red and white RCA jacks.) Brown into #18; yellow into # 19; red into # 20. Problem is, there is another, separate red RCA jack (total of 3) in the bundle, with Red and Black leads. No mention of these in the instructions. Any help here? Do I throw it away? Thanks, Kim 2000 Cab

Sid, As of last week, the OEM mufflers from my MY00 Cab are taking up space in my garage. PM or email me with UPS delivery address ... and in the meantime, I will look for a box that will fit. Be forewarned ... it will be approximately 25 pounds from the Atlanta area for shipping costs. If you find one closer, I will certainly understand. Kim 2000 Cab

Oh, I definitely just took the brackets off my old cans. By the time, I was a little exasperated and in no mood to investigate what it would take to change the mounts on the car. The brackets on the cans have only two bolts per side, and were already on the floor right in front of me. I did encounter a few other hurdles in the process. You might want to check the post: PSE Complete - Lessons Learned If I can be of any help (other than giving you my brackets), don't hesitate to PM or email me. Kim 2000 Cab

Well, 3 days ago I posted a confession of my many mistakes in the PSE install, including this one: "4. I struggled somewhat attempting to mount the new mufflers … until I went back and read in the TSB: “Note: For MY 99 through 01, the new mufflers can only be fitted using the existing muffler holder on the engine.” So, as usual, struggle, back up, read the instructions, then proceed again." Kim 2000 Cab

The official Porsche product for lubing the top mechanism is Krytox grease by Dupont. You can find it here:Krytox A small tube (smaller than regular sized toothpaste) is about $20.00 Works great. Kim 2000 Cab

You are correct that "manuell" means "not in automatic". It is not accurate to say it also means "compressor is not running". While the compressor IS always running in Automatic .... the converse is not true. It is not always Off in Manuell. When climate control is in Manuell, the compressor will run anytime the compressor button is pushed. The difference between this mode and "automatic" is that the driver gets to select fan speed, where as Automatic will select fan speed based upon the difference between ambient and selected temperature ... as the computer strives to achieve the selected temp. My primary reason for rarely running in Automatic is that the fan will come on full blast whenever the car is started during warm weather. Top fan speed is very noisy, and rarely necessary, even here in the Georgia summer. Kim 2000 Cab

I've got 50k+ on a MY 00. I've never had it in the shop for a mechanical problem. The only other car I have had to match this trouble free reliability (in 45 years of car ownership) is my wife's Toyota. That comparison includes several BMWs, couple of Volvos, and an assortment of domestics. Kim 2000 Cab

1. With DIY info so plentiful and so complete (thanks, Orient Express), I started in without reading the TSB. A mistake, as evidenced in #4, below. 2. I had the bumper off anyway …. replacing due to collision … but would strongly agree with those who say the 15 minutes required to remove bumper cover and heat shields is time well spent … especially for someone who has never removed the mufflers on a 996. Everything is simply easier to see and reach …. especially drilling holes in heat shields & routing & connecting vacuum hoses / clamps to actuators. 3. I found a short handled (4”), fine tooth, 3/8 ratchet to be very helpful in removing the 13 mm nuts on the backs of the muffler holders. 4. I struggled somewhat attempting to mount the new mufflers … until I went back and read in the TSB: “Note: For MY 99 through 01, the new mufflers can only be fitted using the existing muffler holder on the engine.” So, as usual, struggle, back up, read the instructions, then proceed again. 5. At least one poster advised leaving the holders in place and, instead, removing the mufflers only by removing the 2, long, vertically oriented bolts holding each muffler to its holder. On my car (MY 00), this was not physically possible, as the longer of the 2 bolts would not clear the body in order to be pulled upward and removed. 6. If you over tighten the very small hose clamps used on the metal braded vacuum tubes at the mufflers, the tiny screw will break. 6.a.. NO ONE in Atlanta has hose clamps that small. 7. Skip all the instructions regarding replacing one of the rubber sleeves on the intake system with the one supplied in the kit. Just do like Orient Express and use a Y-connector in one of the existing vacuum nipples. 8. I ignored most of the TSB regarding practically dismantling the car interior to run the wires. It is not necessary. Others have documented the short cuts so I won’t repeat here. 9. The step requiring removal of the “rearmost screw in the fuel collection tube” in order to mount the vacuum tank stumped me for a while. The picture in the TSB makes it appear as if the location is almost alongside the battery terminal. In reality, it is several inches forward of the terminal, and difficult to see under various wires and hoses. 10. If you twist the wrong way while removing the left end of the Relay Carrier, the mounting bracket will break. 10.a.Super Glue will not repair a broken Relay Carrier mounting bracket 11. The pin numbers on the face of the new relay holder are TINY and white on white. Rub a pencil lightly over them, and the numbers will be much easier to read as you go. 12. Like others have reported, my last connection of the single RE/BU wire to the fuse block at B10, was a problem. The attached connector (female spade) did not work, so I was forced to splice the wire into another (RE / BK) wire coming off fuse B10. 12a. When the TSB refers to "2 RE/BU" wires coming from the dash switch, they really mean "3". Having the total electrical schematic in front of you really helps at this stage. 13. Like others have reported, the instruction to place the GY/BU/BN wire at the 5/2 position of relay block 28 was incorrect. Relay block 25 was the correct spot. . 14. When all is said and done, the dash switch will not work …. if you have not plugged the electrical connection into the vacuum switch in the engine compartment …. where you had left it hanging for the heat shrink tubing to cool. * Most important lesson: never attempt any project of this magnitude without quick and easy access to RennTech. I’m certainly no expert, but will be glad to answer any questions that I can for someone attempting this. Just email for a phone number. Kim 2000 Cab

I'm all done. It sounds great. Going to pick up my new bumper at the paint shop this afternoon to wrap it all up. Thanks to everyone who helped, especially Orient Express. His DIY, and the other available info is invaluable, even to a guy who considers himself a pretty fair shade tree mechanic. I suspect that I would have had to give up on the wiring and vacuum system were it not for RennTech. In a new topic, I have posted some of my lessons learned. Kim 2000 Cab

Thanks .... that's a great help. I was assuming most of this .... but you know what "assume" spells. Anyway, one last question (famous last words) ... do you use the vacuum tank that comes with the PSE kit? The TSB says, "if needed". And, if one does use it, that takes the second Y-connector (if I read the diagrams correctly). Since you refer to an extra Y-connector AND the tank .... I am left without a firm hint as to whether you use the tank. Going by your previous DIY, wires are in (to the fuse panel, at least), heat proof tubing is run from servos to the engine bay, and mufflers are mounted .... all awaiting the final vacuum connections. Thanks, very much, Kim 2000 Cab

Thanks, sleeves on both sides of my throttle have vacuum nipples in use. I shudder at the thought of going to the ones behind this first row. Another look at Orient Express' DIY seems to indicate that he utilized an existing tapped nipple by using a Y-connector to accomodate both the existing vacuum line and the lead to the PSE vacuum valve. I stress "SEEMS" to indicate this. I can't be sure, and hesitate to move forward until this is confirmed. The PSE kit does contain 2 of the Y-connectors, and I can only see where one is called for. In the meantime, I'm running the wire so I can button up my Cab workings and get that out of the way. Kim 2000 Cab

I have finished the muffler installation & am starting on the wiring for the PSE. I am a pretty fair shade tree mechanic, but all my previous Porsche experience is with a 928, whose V8 and big hood were much more familiar territory to me. I am stalled on TSB Step 1.33. I have removed the throttle body, but am unsure exactly what I am looking for in the 2 rubber sleeves immediately adjoining it …. or (as I guess they mean) the 2 additional sleeves further from the back of the car (beyond the throttle). The “no-yes” decision tree simply has me stumped on what needs to be accomplished with the rubber sleeve/connection nipple that comes with the PSE kit. Can someone expand on this portion of the install? I feel fairly confident about the rest of the vacuum and electrical hookups. Thanks Kim 2000 Cab

Although, at my age, I am not one to walk around with iPod playing in my ears, I do enjoy having a variety of music on highway trips in my Cab. With OEM CD changers still pulling in hundreds of $s on ebay, I was already looking for another add-on to my CDR-220. Now, the internal CD player has failed, and the repair estimate is over $350 (needs new laser) ... so I'm seriously into my search for a new music source, keeping in mind that I am not looking for a mutli-thousand $ aftermarket stereo. (Remember, I was happy with the OEM CD player). I was in the process of ordering an iPod Nano to plug into the Aux input of the 220, when I came across this Neo unit. It purports to not only power the iPod, but to directly plug into the 220, and allow control of the iPod through the 220's control head. Combined cost of the iPod and the Neo would be less than a OEM CD changer on ebay, and about the same as my needed CD repair. I would like to know if any of you have had experience with this product. See Neo here Thanks for any wisdom, Kim 2000 Cab

One more possible solution for you to consider: I have bought 2 complete instrument clusters on ebay .... ranging in price from $20 to $30. In each case, they were accurately described as being non-functioning and/or non-guaranteed. However, a little tinkering turned them into really cool night lights / wall clocks for my grandsons' rooms. Both came with the knobs & stems under discussion here. Kim 2000 Cab

Izzy, I couldn't agree more. One of the reasons I classify myself as a "car guy" is that I like to tinker with / solve problems / perform routine maintenance in almost equal portion to how much I enjoy driving this wonderful car. As cars have become more complex and itegrated chip oriented, this has .... as we all know .... become less and less possible, but RennTech certainly gives me enough information to continue feel a little like the wrench turner I was in my youth .... 40 years ago .... balancing the downdraft SU carbs on my TR3 with a Unisyn. My previous Porsche, a 928, was like on-going therapy for me. With its central electrical panel looking like a switchboard for an office building .... 40 or so fuses and over a dozen big relays, all in one place with the harness spreading out like a virus .... there was ALWAYS some glitch to trace down, or cool modification to be performed when my imagination ran away with me. God help me when automobiles advance to the inevitable point that the engines/mechanicals are sealed and accessible only to "authorized" persons. Kim 2000 Cab

Actually, this probably does not represent the problem you fear: When new keys are put in use with a 996, it is the CAR that is programmed to accept the keys .... not the keys programmed to match the car. The keys transmit the same code no matter what .... the car can be set to recognize or ignore a key. When I had my new keys mated to my car, one of the choices on the PST2 was to "cancel any or all existing keys". In other words, the car's central computer can be told to ignore any previous key fob transmitters that were mated to the car. If a new owner has any fear of keys floating around, this is a good option. FWIW Kim 2000 Cab

Izzy, I notice that at the end of his pad change DIY, Loren says new pads need to be bedded in, and that it takes 125 miles before they are fully effective. It makes sense that if new pads have to bed into old disks, then old pads need to bed in to new disks .... Kim 2000 Cab

I've got the PSE. One of my primary factors in selection was the ability to go "quiet" when I so desired. I don't believe ANY of the louder exhausts add measurable HP by themselves. Maybe a few HP if coupled with new intake, etc. Kim 2000 Cab

I have a 2000 Cab with 18" wheels in the Atlanta area, also mostly warm the year round. I did a lot of research last summer and settled on Goodyear Eagle F1 GS D3 (not N-rated, but that is not an issue to me. I love the tires. One of my requirements was a relatively quiet ride at highway cruise. I got that, and great dry and wet handling. Solid and stable. I don't track the car, but do drive fairly agressively on occasion. My research was borne out when the December Car & Driver judged it as the top of the ultra high performance tires. You can probably find that at C&D online. Kim 2000 Cab

I have seen guys place it directly on top of the steering column, against the instrument panel. Line of sight is perfect, but I don't wish to have those couple of warning lights blocked from my view. It could also be placed in the non-smoker's replacement for the ashtray .... if that is what you have in your center console ... or on the face of the batwing ... if you don't have seat heat switches. These locations, unlike the steering column one, would require a diversion of your eyes to read and mute it, however. Good luck Kim 2000 Cab

Sorry to sound vague, but I believe the wires are green and brown. (its been a while) The subject has been addressed many times here .... most recently by a newbie asking what a variety of unused connections might be. I think he described them fully, so a search might help. More likely, someone like Loren or Tool Pants will jump in with the specifics. The unused (in my car) cell connector is located directly behind the radio / storage compartment area in the upper console. I simply removed the carpet covered side panel at the passenger's left knee position, and there was the connector, hanging in clear view. A quick test with a multimeter or voltage tester will confirm you have the correct wires. Kim 2000 Cab

Can't help you with an LA installer .... but it is truely a very quick DIY sort of thing. I'm not sure you can find the switched power you need in the dome lights. I followed a post from the web and found it very easy to route the wire otherwise: 1. mount the V1 very high, and to the right of the mirror. 2. you can route the V1 telepone wire behind the windshield seal simply by stuffing it in place with a credit card or equiv. Only about 3 inches (enough to lead out and plug in) will be visible. 3. take it right across the top of W/S, and down the front side of the A pillar, stuffing all the way. 4. at the bottom of the A pillar, you can force it through the seam in the dash at that location. 5. from there, under the airbag area to behind the center console. 6. waiting behind the console is a switched positive lead and a ground that are intended for cell phone use. 7. just spice two wires of the V-1 socket at that point, keeping track of which V-1 lead is the positive one. Its that simple. If you wish the mount the V-1 remote, it plugs into that same socket. Drill a hole in the back of your storage tray (if you have one in your center stack), run the remote wire from the V-1 socket into the tray, and your remote display will fit perfectly, like it was built in there. Kim 2000 Cab

Thanks to both of you. After reading your posts, I simply pulled harder. That extra effort, maybe combined with bumps from the ride that I just completed, did the trick. Until I read your posts, I was not willing to pull that hard. In my previous 928, the Blaupunkt slid out like a server from a rack, with no resistance at all. This forum is always great .... but same day service is more than I expected. Kim 2000 Cab

A little help please: I just inserted my Becker removal tools into the CDR220 in my MY00 996. The keys went in just as pictured here by Loren not long ago. I felt the expected spring tension as they went into position. Upon reaching their limit, they could not be removed. Neither could the radio .... at least to the limit of how hard I was willing to pull. So now, I'm riding around with the removal tools sticking out of the slots. I've never pulled the Becker before, but have removed plenty of other brands, including the Blaupunkt from my 928. I expected to simply insert the tools, feel the release, and pull the radio out. Lacking that, I certainly expected to be able to remove the tools themselves. Any suggestions? Have I missed some obvious step? Kim 2000 Cab