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jaybart

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About jaybart

  • Rank
    Contributing Member
  • Birthday 04/01/1968

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

Profile Fields

  • From
    Los Gatos, CA
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    2012 911 turbo S, white
    '08 Cayenne turbo, white
    '98 Ferrari F355GTS, rosso corsa
    '89 VW Westy, white
  • Former cars
    '06 911 S Cab, 6-sp manual, seal gray
    '06 911S Cab
    '04 911 40th Anniversay
    '69 280SL
    '67 230SL
    '07 E63 AMG Station Wagon, black
    '90 Ferrari 348ts, rosso corsa

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  1. Nope. Sorry, hadn’t had a chance at the video. Sounds like a bearing but could be many things. In cases like that I like to use a stethoscope (like this Mechanic's Stethoscope WWW.HARBORFREIGHT.COM Mechanic's Stethoscope ) the one I got comes with a little funnel to help locate the noise.
  2. If oil level is ok my money is on the oil pressure valve spring. Had to do this on my 06 where the spring got tired and hence the pressure regulation was out of whack. Simple fix from that I recall.
  3. Disconnected the solenoid and never looked back! Put a cutoff rubber glove finger over the socket and plug if you’re worried about dirt and grime getting in there. Now enjoy the sound all the time.
  4. Sounds like your “radio on but no sound” is probably a sticky power relay for the amp. Try this out - when you first get in the car instead of on motion of key in and start turn the key to ignition on and wait. Does the sound come on after a few seconds? On the date, I don’t have a 997.1 anymore, but I recall that to be configured in the PCM. Dig through the menues...
  5. Hi GCB, what a bummer. Looks like you and your dealer looked at just about all intake issues (the AOS is related to intake as the vacuum in the oil filler came from there). So seems you have oxygen coming in. Maybe it's time to look at the other 2 items needed for an explosion - fuel and spark. I recently had an issue on my 997S where i had hesitation and engine stalling that turned out to be a coil that had come loose (both bolts that secure it to the head had literally fallen off the engine and the coil was bouncing around). While something like that is unlikely - you would usually see misfire codes as I did - but worth checking as it is easily done visually/manually (i.e. are the bolts on tight, are there cracks in the coils?). The more likely contender maybe being fuel. Now you said your shop says you have good pressure on the fuel pump. Not sure how hard that is to test as I haven't had to content with that (knock on wood). Maybe someone else on here will chime in on how to hunt fuel supply issues. Your mileage having changed like that - there's definitely something off. Good luck and keep us posted, Jay
  6. Thanks for all input. I replaced spark plugs and coils. When I did I found that the coil on the left middle cylinder was loose - both screws were missing. I guess that would explain the misfire ....
  7. Good advice from White987S. Personal opinion? Manual. The 2006 automatic is a traditional torque converter slush box - tiptronic yes, but still not the same. My commuter '08 Cayenne turbo has one of those and it leaves me disappointed and looking forward to driving the manual '06 997S every time.
  8. Here's a mystery to ponder. Today my wife drove the '06 997S Cab in the rain. After a couple of miles the CEL started blinking, the engine started running with much hesitation (going downhill at about 35 mph). Then CEL went on solid. She called me, we swapped cars and I drove the 997 home. Can't say that it felt much different. I read the codes - see attached images - with the durametric. There's: P0300: misfiring checksum error P0301: misfiring cylinder 1 P0302: misfiring cylinder 2 P0306: misfiring cylinder 6 P0300: misfiring checksum error P0302: misfiring cylinder 2 8035: left seat heater C152: communication PSM control unit (drive) 8014: POSIP LIN no communication 8004: Terminal 50 C131: Communication gateway control unit (CAN comfort) 8007: Gateway incorrect coding C122: Communication driver's door control unit (comfort) C123: Communication passenger's door control unit (comfort) 8042: Front luggage compartment unlocking 8029: Right fog light 8009: Door h. button, inner sh. stroke C102: CAN single wire operation "comfort" 8007: No load on left subwoofer So, after capturing the screen shots I erased all codes and took her for a test drive. No issues on the drive. The only codes after the drive were: 8007: Gateway incorrect coding 8009: Door h. button, inner sh. stroke 8007: No load on left subwoofer Those all seem benign and explained - except the subwoofer but that's not a high priority to troubleshoot. So, what do you think? What may have cause this? Spark plugs are 4 1/2 years old (24,000 miles) and I was going to replace them end of this month as a matter of routine. Besides the Denison BT GW and a Smarttop module everything else is stock (PSE, PASM, leather interior, power memory seats, steering wheel with controls, navigation, CD changer, Sport Chrono, dimming mirrors). My theory? Either some connector got wet causing all this, or the revs dropped due to misfire from bad fuel in stop and go traffic causing voltage fluctuation leading to all sorts of faults registering. Looking forward to your thoughts and direction.
  9. Hi Tony, If you want to go with all new parts, check Sunset - a sponsor here. I snapped up a used set of mufflers and tips and bought the vacuum tube/switching pieces from Sunset. I did the install myself. Mufflers took me about an hour each without removing the bumper. 1. Lifted the rear with floorjack, put on jackstand, take off rear wheel (helps with the room needed to slide out muffler towards the front; I've been told it's doable with the wheel on, might be pushing it though) 2. Removed the 2 screws for the brace that comes down to hold the bumper in place (behind the rear wheel) 3. Loosened the clamping sleeve that connects the muffler to the cat (#15/29 in the picture, a squirt of WD40 and some time to work ahead of starting is advisable), slide it back gently towards the cat pipe 4. Undid the 3 nuts holding the muffler brace (red circle in picture, again a squirt of WD40 and give it some time to work first) 5. Gently slid the muffler off the mounting bolts and out of the cat sleeve, lowered it a bit, and extracted it towards the front and bottom of the car. 6. Finally took off the 2 bolts that hold the mounting brace in place on the muffler and swtched the brace over to the PSE muffler Installation is the reverse. The TSB says you should use new nuts (5 per side) and sleeves. For the tubing, valve and electrical, followed the TSB - it's on here and if you are a contributor you have access to it. If you're looking to go the used muffler route, check out la dismantler or dcauto. Let us know how it goes. Cheers, Jay
  10. Hi Sam, How did you manage to get exhaust button so cleanly into the console front? I was looking for a facia with the whole for the button cut out but that does not seem to exist. Did you make it yourself? How? Thanks, Jay
  11. Thanks Loren! Works like a charm. Shows you what one gets for looking at only the 1st level in the index (Headlights beam adjustment........................132). Of course 2 lines above it says "Headlights-> adjusting.............279,280). Well, goes to show that he who knows how to read has a clear advantage ... but to use the advantage you have to actually read ... Thanks again! Jay
  12. So I've searched and couldn't find anything on this. The left an right headlight on my 2006 911 S Cab aren't at the same level. It's bugging me. The left side is noticably lower than the right side - which seems to be set to a good distance but not too high such that it would blind others. I am wondering how to bring up the left side a notch or two to align with the right. The leveling function works on both lights (tested turn on lights, then ignition and see the beams dipping down and coming up on both sides). What gives? Is this a dealer programming job or is there a good old adjustment screw somewhere. FYI, the car is new to me (whole story in and of itself - I can only say, never ever sell your Porsche because you think that Ferrari is going to be more fun ...:() so I don't know if they were ever aligned or not ... Thanks, Jay
  13. Maintainer is usually just a 'low power' trickle charger that does the job of keeping a battery charged. Maintainer and charger is usually a bigger power supply that is designed around charging a drained battery and that has an additional 'maintain' mode. If you don't plan on charging drained batteries, go with a decent maintainer.
  14. Hi Mat, I've gone from the 40th Anniversary 911 #306 to a 2006 Carrera S Cab two years ago. In terms of differences, the 40th Anniversary had a real nice sound upwards of 6000 RPM - you lose that. The S is a little bit more torquy in return. Straight line performance, I think it's a toss up. The biggest difference that I liked is the increased comfort from the PASM suspension if you decide you don't need to be in Sport mode (vs. the 40th Anniversay sport suspension) and as you say the interior is much more up to date. On the handling, not sure I really feel there is such a quantum leap - the 40th with its standard 18" wheels and sport suspension does very well for itself. Would I do it again ... hard to say. That 40th Anniversary car is a really great package and still a looker for me ... Hey, if you do decide to sell yours, make sure you post it here ... Cheers, Jay
  15. Hi, looking to see if someone can help with updating the firmware on my mobridge ABT2010. The mobridge website has some instructions but I can't get their update wizard to talk via bluetooth to my mobridge. So I am attempting to use the SD route instead. However they have 2 firmware files - one for a gen 1 and one for a gen 2. Now I believe this refers to generation of mobridge device. Does anybody know how to tell if my mobridge is a gen 1 or gen 2? Anybody have some experience with how to make this work reliably? I've put the correct config file on the SD card (generated via the wizard) and then put both gen1 and gen2 files on the card. I've tried getting some SW load to happen with a variety of plug the card in, turn the car on and off combinations but seem to be getting nowhere ... Added the SW version screen shot to it hoping that gives a clue to what the right procedure is. Thanks, Jay
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