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quinby1

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Everything posted by quinby1

  1. I purchased this 987 badge on e-bay and it was really well made....this fellow (who unfortunately I don't have an ID of) made them in aluminum look, and I emailed him and he made one in black...very nice quality, came with 3m tape attached... :thumbup:
  2. Ok, here goes....The DME records and keeps a record of the times your engine has hit the rev limiter, as well as at what hour of operation the "over-rev" occurred. On the 996 there are two ranges, 1 &2. Range 1 records the number of ignitions at the rev limiter, in this case a total of 2234 ignitions, the last one happening at 926.4 hours of operation (I would guess somewhere around 32000 miles). It also shows 1 ignition at range 2 at 152.5 hours of operation or perhaps 5000 miles. You arrive at these Guestimates by multiplying hours of operation by an average 35mph. Anyhow, were not done with the fancy math just yet. Now these are the actual number of ignitions recorded by the engine, so if at 7200 rmps the engine is firing 21,600 ignitions per minute or 360 ignitions per second, that means the engine spent about 6 and 1/2 seconds at the rev limiter. How many occasions this represents is a real guess, but more than one and less than six? Totally confused yet? what you really want to know is that it's no big deal. Now the single over rev in range two is supposed to be a bad thing, I think in this case it is an anomaly, and since it occurred so long ago, it doesn't matter. By the way, that printout should give you the total hours of operation...if you multiply that number by 30 to 35 it should give you the approximate mileage on the car. Just a way to check on the actual mileage. Well that's really more than you want to know, if the car is otherwise good, go for it....B) Thanks for a very clear explanation! So it's not really an important number. The Car Proof report shows no discrepancy but the car only has around 27,000 miles. From the rough calculations, this means the car was used in much slower speeds and not much highway driving. Is this a right assumption? Possible would be additional clutch wear? Which I would not have any idea, but the report did state stiff clutch which the vender said was "corrected". That's a good assumption, if the math shows the hours of operation reflect much lower average speed (say 20 something) then the car probable was used in a lot of short trips at lower than highway speeds.
  3. Ok, here goes....The DME records and keeps a record of the times your engine has hit the rev limiter, as well as at what hour of operation the "over-rev" occurred. On the 996 there are two ranges, 1 &2. Range 1 records the number of ignitions at the rev limiter, in this case a total of 2234 ignitions, the last one happening at 926.4 hours of operation (I would guess somewhere around 32000 miles). It also shows 1 ignition at range 2 at 152.5 hours of operation or perhaps 5000 miles. You arrive at these Guestimates by multiplying hours of operation by an average 35mph. Anyhow, were not done with the fancy math just yet. Now these are the actual number of ignitions recorded by the engine, so if at 7200 rmps the engine is firing 21,600 ignitions per minute or 360 ignitions per second, that means the engine spent about 6 and 1/2 seconds at the rev limiter. How many occasions this represents is a real guess, but more than one and less than six? Totally confused yet? what you really want to know is that it's no big deal. Now the single over rev in range two is supposed to be a bad thing, I think in this case it is an anomaly, and since it occurred so long ago, it doesn't matter. By the way, that printout should give you the total hours of operation...if you multiply that number by 30 to 35 it should give you the approximate mileage on the car. Just a way to check on the actual mileage. Well that's really more than you want to know, if the car is otherwise good, go for it....B)
  4. In the tool kit which came with the car (hopefully), there is a tool which fits this nut. It is a security nut so that your wheels cannot be stolen...If you bought the car used, I hope the previous owner left it for you...if not:(
  5. At 65, it was my " I survived a heart attack and quintuple by-pass car", I recommend you get one (a p car that is, not a heart attack) before it's too late...you never knowB)
  6. Perhaps your radio has "forgotten" that it has an AUX, (an external CD player or Ipod gateway) attached....you may need a PWIS or a Durametric with version 6 software, to get it reset?
  7. Yes, you can cut a small slit in it and then fish a wire down behind it, into the car behind the front radio console...
  8. You're more than welcome Steve....by the way...don't get crazy about this stuff....I've found that most Porsche owners are a little paranoid about their cars..."do you hear that click?"..."what was that rattle?" ..is my ims failing?"....etc....if your car runs well, enjoy it...these are noisy performance machines...the engines tap, click rattle, squeeq, roar, whine, hum and so on...if you listen too hard, you'll hear all kinds of "bad" things and if you look too hard, you'll imagine it's going to explode...just drive and enjoy..quinby1
  9. I agree with white987....I would pass this one up...number of ignitions at rev limit show hard use...now we all "drive" these machines hard, but hopefully not carelessly....this one looks like careless disregard...quinby1 B)
  10. Hi Steve I just sprung for a durametric myself (I've had my 05 Boxster for 18 mos). There seems to be a lot of confusion re: over revs and ranges, particularly in the 997/987 cars...since you have a 986 you only have two ranges, 1 & 2...one being kind of ok and two being real naughty. I agree that I wouldn't worry about the single range 2 occurrence as it was long ago. However, here are some interesting observations... You will note that with 1758 hours total your mileage of 61000 is almost perfect (1758x35mph=61,530) and by projection at 1255hrs you last over rev was at about 44,000 miles. However 32,485 seems liked a lot of ignitions....obviously from several occurrences. My understanding is an engine turning 7000 rpm is experiencing 21,000 ignitions per minute (since only three cylinders are igniting)...which would translate to about 350 ignitions per second. If this is right, then 32,485 would be one and a half minutes of time at the rev limiter. Even if we assume that each over rev occurrence accounted for a 1 second over rev (350 ignitions) you would need nearly 100 over revs to hit 32,485. If my figures are wrong, I hope someone out there will let me know as I also get confused re this stuff. By the way, my 987 shows : range 1 307 / 30hr range 2 2 / 30hr range 3 0 / 30hr range 4 0 / 30hr range 5 0 / 30hr range 6 0 / 30hr total hours 977.8 I interpret this to mean there was one over rev occasion at 30 hours ( about 1000 miles) long before I had car, which accounted for both the 307 ignitions in range one (less than one second) and the 2 ignitions in range 2 ( 1/100 of sec). :D By the way, I love this durametric, what a great tool...well worth the cost. with new software beta 6.0 version it is amazing...
  11. Just a final note: I had parts painted by Eric at Bumperplugs and they did a great job! Pix of painted trim:
  12. OK guys, here is the solution thanks to Joe Desimone from Planet Porsche...the silver painted trim pieces on the cup holder are only clipped onto a black plastic substrate. This is not evident when looking at them. They can be removed by carefully prying them off with a plastic wedge, small screwdriver or trim removal tool. First remove the tray from the car. Then working from the HINGE side, carefully pry the pieces up from the bottom. I have included some pics. Thanks to all for your input....quinby1 :clapping:
  13. Have you tried Eric at Bumperplugs.com? They paint most of this stuff. Yes Loren, It was Eric who told me he wouldn't paint the piece with the tray attached...I asked him how to remove the tray and he said "We are not Porsche technicians; we just refinish the materials to perfection here. You should ask a pro at your local Porsche dealership." I don't have a dealership nearby, and the one that is two hours away doesn't have a good reputation if you know what I mean.,., So I'm looking for help..if I can't get it the trim off, I'll have a local body shop paint it with the tray on and masked. Although I would prefer to use Eric at Bumperplugs, he apparently won't do it with the tray on.
  14. Ok, I have examined the tray and trim after I removed it from the car. It appears that you can start to push out the hinge rod from either side and then pull it the rest of the way out which will then allow the hinged front trim pieced to come off....HOWEVER, there are four very small springs which are wrapped around the hinge rod (one on each side trim and two on the large center trim). When and if I pull this rod these springs are going to go flying off. I envision putting them back when re-assembling is going to be a nightmare!! :cursing: Has anyone ever done this...or if you've had your interior trim painted, how did you do it??
  15. Speed Yellow....I know he does great work and the quote to do the pieces was OK, but I wanted to send the trim with the cup holder attached as I assumed he could mask it off and paint just the trim, but he only will accept the trim pieces.....I'm not sure if this piece can be removed? :(
  16. Yes, got that far...but can you remove the trim from the unit??
  17. Does anyone know how to remove the trim piece (actually 3 pieces) from the cup holder in a 987? I want to paint it along with the other dash trim pieces, and Eric at Bumper plugs will not accept the pieces with cup holder attached. I can see how to remove the holder and trim pieces from a great article by satoshi which I found on Planet Porsche ( .Satoshi). Apparently satoshi had it painted with the cup hold frame attached. Any ideas?? :huh:
  18. the paint code should be on the side of the tire sticker on the door.
  19. There is a DIY solution for those who are out of warranty. First remove the unit. To do this follow the panel removal instructions which are posted on this board for the removal of the radio. Once the two side panels are off each side, it is simple to press the clips and slide the a/c control unit out. Now you must carefully tape the unit for painting. Tape and mask the entire unit, except for the two control switches,( temp on the left and fan on the right.) Now cut a small piece of tape just big enough to cover that part of the switch which has the translucent "temp" lettering on it. Repeat for the fan logo on the other switch. If you skip this step, you will not only loose the lettering, but when the dash lights are on, there will be no lights on these switches. You can now paint the switches with a can of flat black enamel spray. Here you want to apply several VERY light coats, as you don't want the paint to build up and cause the switch to stick. That's about it..let dry overnight, and reinstall.
  20. thanks Loren, so then what is the part no. for the standard manual a/c unit with heated seats? is it 99765311310FMH ?
  21. Does anyone know if you can replace the standard 987 heat/air unit ( No. 99765310109), with a climate control unit (No. 99765311109FMH). The units are the same size and almost identical and it appears the wiring harness is compatible. So my question is can you just upgrade to a climate control unit by just replacing the "head unit"?
  22. Thank you again for your purchase! We appreciate you leaving comments on the installations on how we can improve the process. We're constantly looking for new ways to make the installation easier, quicker & user friendly. The instructions provided was completed in collaboration with JJLehman. JJLehman has been working with us for the last couple of months to finalized the instructions. I like to know which grommet you're referring to so that I can make the necessary changes to the instructions? The grommet above the amp or the grommet next to the battery/firewall? The grommet that is just to the left rear of the battery, the one which comes from the passenger compartment into the front compartment. It carries most of the wires for the front end. It is about 3 inches in diameter. In the 987 it is very thick, about 3/4 of an inch. I spent at least an hour trying to cut and X in it. In fact I ended up digging it up pretty badly with no luck. No matter how deep you try to cut, you can't get through, nor can you fish a coat hanger through it. Then it dawned on me ( you know that cartoon light bulb came on). I just took a large screwdriver and pried the grommet out from the top, just enough to fish the hanger into the cabin and attach the speaker wires and then pull them through. Then just cut a notch in the top edge of the grommet to provide enough room for the wires when the grommet is pushed back into place. I repeated this process for the second grommet with ease. Quinby
  23. I just completed the installation of these speakers in my 2005 987 Boxster. I got them from Euromotorspeed through E-bay. They were quick to ship and came with all that was needed for installation, including detailed instructions. I read many posts, including JJLehman, and it was a big help. In fact it seems that Euromotorspeed has incorporated many of JJlejman's comments into their instructions. Since I have the enhanced audio with the amp in the front trunk, I can add some comments which might help future installers of this product with this configuration. first, you need every tool mentioned in the instructions and by JJlehman and then some. The biggest pain (or should I say the first pain) is removing the storage boxes. You are supposed to cut the glue off the bottom of the box, but if it is cold, it is like iron. It helps to warm the glue with a hair dryer, then cut it with a very strong utility knife. But be warned, the front wall of the compartment it very thin and fragile. I didn't manage to break it, but it was close. Go slow, it took me 3 hours to dig, cut, scrape and gouge the glue out, especially from the drippings down the sides. I eventually had to cut one of the boxes to pieces using a dremmel drill and took it out in two pieces. Once the boxes are out the instructions for installing the grills are ok. I didn't need to grind much off, they fit well and I used ample amounts of hot glue to secure them all around. Mounting speakers and running wiring as per directions was fine. The real problem came when I had to get through the firewall into the front trunk. The instructions say to locate the large rubber grommet to the left of the battery and to cut an X into it with a utility knife, then fish the wires through with a coat hanger or similar object. Well forget it. The **** grommet is at least 3/4 of an inch thick. I hacked away with knives for an hour. I couldn't get a wire through the thing and was afraid I would cut into the harness. Finally I realized the only way to get through the firewall is to pry out the Grommet from the top with a screwdriver. With the top of the grommet pried slightly out, you can cut a notch about 1/4 inch wide and deep into the top of the grommet. This gives you a small opening, which is big enough to get a coat hanger down and into the passenger compartment and will leave enough room when the grommet is replaced for the speaker wires. You can repeat the process for the second grommet to get the speaker wires into the forward most trunk area. Hope this helps some other adventurous installer.
  24. thanks Bigcar....I did notice that you can't hear it with the top down.....however, it's 36^ here in Virginia this morning, so my shotzie will stay in the garage for a while and the top down weather around here is some months away...quinby1
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