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oneyedjack

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About oneyedjack

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  • Present cars
    2004 C2 40th Edition

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  1. As the saying goes...... In a spin, both feet in. When in doubt, both feet out.
  2. Try Jake Raby at flat6innovations.com for info on nikasil and repair costs. Sorry for your loss.
  3. +1. And to add to this......the engine "sits" on the motor mounts. When you jack up the car using the engine, you are asking the motor mount to act in the opposite direction it was designed for...ie to lift the body of the car . Here is a generic picture of a hydraulic motor mount. You can see it is designed to have a load sit down on the mount. The fluid in the mount helps dampen the engine vibrations by isolating the connection to the body and the connection to the engine. When asked to lift a load these mounts can sometimes seperate. The top bolt (connection to engine) can end up bending the metal can around it and pop out of the rubber housing. Cars designed mostly for racing generally use solid motor mounts that are more robust and are probably more than capable to lift the load of a race car. Point is that just because they do it at the track does not mean its ok for the driveway. Even if the mounts don't break, they might suffer inernal damage that cause them to leak, etc. BTW,don;t shoot the messenger. Just trying to give some useful info on the subject so people can decide for themselves. YMMV
  4. Here is the information I got from my suspension bits: Dampers: Front: 996.343.041.22 (Marked with a grey dot) Rear: 996.333.051.35 followed by "BJO" (Marked with a grey dot) Bumpstops: Front: 996.343.301.02 Rear: 996.333.105.03 Springs: Was not able to find part number on assembled struts, but color coding dots seem to agree with previously referenced article. Fronts: Grey and Blue dots Rears: Grey and White(possible brown) dots Swaybars: Are the same as the ROW M030 suspnesion. Ride Height: Front and Rears: 26.5"inches (673mm) Measured through centerline of the wheel from the ground to the fender lip. The measured distance appears to be about 10mm higher than the ROW M030 setup and inline with the US M030 specs. Hope this helps. If you need any additional info let me know.
  5. Read this article from Panorama Magazine about suspension differences. The article is not specific to the 40th Anniversary cars but it does a good job explaining the US/ROW M030 differences. 996 Suspension Analyzed For a car with only a handful of options, it is rather amazing the amount of misinformation floating around the internet about the 40th Annivesary 996. So much so that I started getting the part numbers from various parts on my car to find out exactly what I had. I will gladly post the exact suspension part numbers from my 04 40th once I get home this evening if you think it will help. in the mean time here is a general list of items I have confirmed: 1. Transaxle does in fact have a limited slip differential. Part number on my transaxle is G96012. G96 is Getrags transmission number, 01 indicates it is the second generation design and the 2 indicates limited slip. 2. While the car has the X-51 engine it does not have the third, middle, radiator. There is a rumor that the 40th has larger "turbo" side radiators but I have not verified this yet. 3. PSE was not a factory option for the US. Although some 40ths have PSE, it was probably a dealer installed option and will not be reflected in the factory option code sticker. 4. Suspension is the US M030. The sway bars are the same as the ROW M030 package and marked with a green dot. The dampers and springs are different from the ROW. (I will update with specific part numbers tonight)
  6. While I have no experience with the Porsche headlights....yet, this is a COMMON problem with Audi A6 headlights. Apparently, rain/ water can pass the o-ring of the bulb holder and corrode the contacts. The turn signal lamp corrosion causes the 'good' turn signal bulb to not work. A little sanding of the contacts in the bulb holder and the headlight housing seems to be the cure for those out of warranty. I have done this several times to a 99 A6 and our 2004 A6. While under warranty Audi replaced a housing, but I understand they later required dealers to repair the housings in house before authorizing replacement. As stated in the thread, there are no internal 'electronics', just wiring and lamp contact points. Repairing the existing assembly should be easy and certainly cheaper than $2k replacement housings. Hope this helps and good luck!
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