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Ignited

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Everything posted by Ignited

  1. Ignited
    Ricky, please follow up with us on which part fixes your screech! Mine has started to make the same noise. Tim in Ft Worth
  2. Ignited
    this is a pic. It is next to the other check valve.
  3. Ignited
    I'd never heard of this or knew what it did, but if you have a TT (mine is an 04) you should check it for a broken diaphram or cracked lower hose. The part # is 948 107 219 50. My Porsche tech pointed out the torn diaphram to me and I found the cracked hose later. The hose seems to connect close to the left turbo (US driver's side). If anyone has more info on what this engine vent check valve does please chime in! Oh, and I found a new one online for about $85 Tim in Ft Worth
  4. Ignited
    Finally found my third vacuum leak yesterday! It was same as ohboy's...there is a "T" under the torque mount. I did the same slathering epoxy with a long thin screwdriver and let it dry overnight. The split in the hose was right on top and easy to see and reach. No more fault light!! This is the first day in 2 years my '04 CTT has not had some kind of warning light on! I also wrapped it with foil tape to protect it from heat. Tim in Ft Worth
  5. Ignited
    My control arm bushings were gone as well on my 04 and definitely easier to do as a full lower control arm job. Think about replacing the end links on the sway bar while you are at it. I got everything I needed to do the job myself from Pelican Parts. I have pics from the swap if you need encouragement! Tim in Ft Worth
  6. Ignited
    did you get instructions you were looking for, Lordjvaun? Tim
  7. Ignited
    PM me, Lordjvaun. I got the instructions from Hahnmgh63 and can forward them to you. I want to add my experience with a '04 CTT that spent some winters in the great white north: The two original bolts broke off; apparently corroded. Well one broke about 1/16 inch from the housing. The other one stripped so I drilled the bolt head off and eased it out with lots of convincing. The one that broke off didn't have enough material to clamp onto so I sawed it off and tried drilling with the smallest bit I had. It broke off (probably because I'm German and used too much force) inside the bolt. So I tried a carbide bit and it walked off and ruined the threads. So now I know why Porsche replaces the entire assembly instead of rebuilding. My advice would be to go ahead and drill off the bolt heads before twisting on them. Also, does anyone know if it is bad to remove the vehicle off the jack with the compressor out of the car? I live in one of THOSE neighborhoods where Code Enforcement is happy to ticket you if they see your car up on jacks for more than one day. Tim in Ft Worth waiting for parts to arrive
  8. Ignited
    Still hoping for an offer of help with the disc set. TWalk, have you had any luck finding a set? Tim in Ft Worth
  9. Ignited
    Let me me the first to welcome you to our little corner of the www, TWalk! You may have read that I also have an '04 CTT and I enjoy driving and maintaining it very much. I have not yet received any feedback about the NAV system. I was hoping to be able to test it to be sure all it needed was the CD set. When I bought my car it had the manuals but no discs, and the NAV has never worked for me, apparently because you have to insert the map CD of your area to use the NAV. If you get any new info about this please post to us so we can figure this out. Tim in Ft Worth
  10. Ignited
    That is correct, Loren. Not asking anyone to post or link to anything. My wife is a librarian so I would never do anything that would violate copyright laws. I just want to test my NAV. Tim in Ft Worth
  11. Ignited
    Just wondering if this issue was ever resolved as I am also needing the 7-cd set to see what the trouble might be with my NAV. Does anyone have the new cd set and willing to please mail it to me here in Texas? Tim in Ft Worth
  12. Ignited
    Erik, could you possibly remember who you borrowed the maps from so that I might try to get mine going as well? I know it has been a few years but that is what forum searches get me...older posts. So any help from anyone on the forum would be a great help to get my old PCM2.0 going again. I have a '04 CTT as well. Build date is May 2003. Tim in Ft Worth
  13. Ignited
    Hi John! My mechanic suggested doing the water pump while you are in there. I did not because it was already a $2200 job and I knew it had a few more miles. My water pump lasted 128,000 and I'm still nursing it with an occasional splash of coolant until after the holidays when I will replace it. My coolant pipes were replaced around 60,000mi or so. Hope this helps! Tim in Ft Worth
  14. Ignited
    Hi Guys! Just a quick question: alignment shop says tie rods are frozen (locked up) so the rod won't move. is it necessary to loosen the nut on the inner tie rod to adjust the outer tie rods. I can't imagine what else would keep the rods from turning. I did a quick search for this but came up empty. Thanks in advance for all the help! Tim in Ft Worth
  15. Ignited
    Got the job done and the only trouble we (yes, I had a lot of help from my mechanic/neighbor) had was getting the top bolt out of the end link. I forgot to mention I was advised to replace those as well and they are not expensive. It took some repositioning of the axle and hub assy to get the bolt out but we eventually got it. Looking at the old arm showed the damage: the rubber was torn out of the rear chassis bushing. I did index the cam washers but that assumes the bushings were not damaged the last time I had the alignment done. So I'm off to the alignment shop to make sure it's correct. They don't charge me unless it needs to be corrected anyhow. Thanks again for all the support! Tim in Ft Worth
  16. Ignited
    thanks so much guys for the info and link. I was told by my local alignment/mechanic shop he would need $500 just for labor so I was looking for reasons it would cost that much to r/r 3 bolts and a ball joint nut. He must have thought the axles would have to come out. But great news! Thanks again! Tim
  17. Ignited
    I have an '04 CTT with 128,000 mi and I am ready to replace my front lower control arms. I was wondering if anyone knows if I will need to pull the axles from the front transfer case? I didn't see a DIY on this so am really in the dark. Should I take pictures when I do mine? Are there any other tips/tricks to replacing lower control arms? Thanks!! Tim in Ft Worth
  18. Ignited
    Here is a problem I haven't read much about on this forum. 2004 CTT (of course!) with 122,000 miles. Had the steering noises especially when turning left and binding in the steering wheel. Thought it might be the stepper and was ready to replace that when, one morning after a 3 hour drive the day before, the steering system made some loud rubbing sounds when turning the wheel either direction still parked in the garage. Looked in the pump reservoir and didn't see ANY fluid. Bought some 11s, topped it up, and no more noises! So I am getting the o-rings replaced. You can see the big port on the bottom side of the pump by looking up from under the vehicle at the front of the engine on the driver's side. Mine had leaked a lot so I had to degrease first to see where it was leaking from. Tim in Ft Worth
  19. Ignited
    My steering noises point to leaking o-rings in the power steering pump. 122,000 mi on a 2004 CTT. Seems a little early for a pump to fail but this is my first Porsche. Maybe "they all do that". I added fluid meanwhile and the noise thought to be the stepper motor on the transfer case has stopped. Fluid level was very low at one point, hoping it didn't get too low. So I'm getting the o-rings replaced before I do anything else.
  20. Ignited
    wvicary called it on my issue. It is my power steering pump, and more specifically the o-rings. I can see a leak from the larger o-ring, but can't see the two smaller ones. They may be leaking as well. I'm going to have them replaced BEFORE I replace the stepper motor because adding power steering fluid stopped the noise I thought was the transfer case stepper motor binding up. Tim in Ft Worth
  21. Ignited
    My 2004 CTT started making this same type noise even at cold startup and whenever I move the steering wheel. A Rubbing, scrubbing sound with plenty of catching in the steering wheel. At low speed (especially in parking lots) I hear a loud humming and whining coming from the drivetrain. I have had the transfer case stepper motor going bad for some time now, but have not replaced it yet (looking for alternative sources to the dealer). Can the failed stepper motor eventually lead to this kind of event in the steering system? Tim in Ft Worth
  22. Ignited
    Please help if you can in finding the meaning of this fault code (PAF45) from my Durmetric v6. It is referring to my faulty brake booster warning on the dash. Brakes seem fine. Just replaced the rear rotors and pads 2 weeks ago and flushed the system. Front rotors and pads were replaced 2 months ago. I did see some posts about cracked vacuum lines but did not find any. Any help is appreciated. Tim in Ft Worth
  23. Ignited
    Hello, Hahn! I too had emailed you about the CD's and am still hoping to get them. Let me know if you need my contact info. Tim in Ft Worth
  24. Ignited
    same thing happened to my Durametric with reading out weird codes after I took it to the dealer, where they did get the CEL turned off. Not sure what all they did as I didn't pay to get it done. They were replacing the main system battery and I suspect they cleared the codes as part of that procedure. Just wondering if their diagnostics could have somehow affected Durametrics?? Anyone else have this happen after a trip to the dealer for diagnostics/electrical work? CEL was off for approx. a week and a half. The "new" codes are PBA41 and PC741 indicating large and small vacuum leaks. Previous code was P0441 (I think) for small vacuum leak. Probably the purge valve hard line cracked. The additional large leak code plays out with a hit in fuel mileage...down to 14 from previous 18mpg. Tim in Ft Worth
  25. Ignited
    Hello Hahn! You have a PM.
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