NelsonMX

From a previous reply from Loren on a similar topic: <---- Front of car Right 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 Left 5 - 6 - 7 - 8 I was looking for a diagram from the manual but couldn't find it....Hope this helps. Thanks Loren!!

Jim, Again sorry for the late reply..... Yes it looks like your engine is a newer model.... From the serial number starting with 632 this indicates a 1972 911S engine or type 911/53 or/63 190 HP in stock set up.... This engine should have the MFI (Mechanical Fuel Injection), although a lot have been modified to carbs. Also, another indication of an S engine is the red cooling shroud. That is they were red, now they have faded to more of a pink!! Hope this is of some help... Bob PS By the way.....the 901 number on the crankcase is a casting number

Jim, The number should be on the casting to the right of the cooling fan as you are looking at the engine. If memory serves me correctly it is on the fan mounting flange of the crankcase casting...7 digits.... Bob

Sorry I'm a bit late..... For your VIN: 119111217 11 = 911 9 = 1969 1 = Coupe L or Luxury Model 11217 = Sequence or serial number usually 4 digits..... If you have the engine # it will tell me what engine you have......7 digits starting with a 2,3, or 4 Rgds, Bob

I have an intermittent problem with my rear hatch... Every so often when I try to open it, when I press the release switch nothing happens. That is the retraction actuator doesn't move and the latch release actuator doesn't move to the release position either..... I took the lower scuff plate off to look at the retraction actuator and it seems that when the problem occurs the retraction actuator is stuck in the retracted (closed) position. In fact if I can get it to move it goes one complete cycle from closed back to the closed position. It won't stop in the open position.... I had a look through the manual but for some reason I don't have any info on the retraction system, only the fixed hook. I may be looking in the wrong section but without any info it's pretty hard to troubleshoot. There are no faults generated when this happens so I suspect it is a sensor or limit switch. The only other thing I have noticed is that when the door is closed and I am unable to open it with the car locked I can open the rear glass which of course sets off the alarm. I'm not sure if this has always been the case but it may have some connection to this problem..... Anyone have any similar issues with their Cayenne??

I have and use a UView Airlift Tool. I have used it on my Cayenne but not so far my 997S as it is still relatively new. It worked like a charm for the Cayenne and should work equally well on the 911. Have a look at: http://www.uview.com/ProductPage.php?Category=Cooling+System+Service+Tools

I'm not sure if my problem is the same issue as described here. In my case sometimes the hatch won't open. That is when I press the release button the actuator doesn't release. If I give the hatch a "technical tap" where the actuator is mounted it will drive to the open position when I press the release button.....Initially I thought it was the actuator or a position switch in the actuator, but after reading this thread I'm beginning to think it may be the door closed sensor. Any thoughts on this?? Bob

Hmmm....not much interest in carbon parts for the Cayenne?? Can't believe that!! That dash is quite the piece! I can't imagine the cost of a one-off like that! By the way, I own a composites shop as well. We do a lot of Motocross parts, industrial, and just recently started a line of Nissan Skyline parts. I try and keep to small parts, although we have a contract for a dash and door panels for a Skyline drift competitor.......The door panels look manageable but the dash has me worried!!! Bob

I ended up buying a full set in the end.....At least now I'll be prepared for the future. It is not tamper proof either. I'm not sure if this is relevant, but the M16 bolts for the rear calipers are not the tamper proof variety..... Rgds, Bob

Here is a source for a rebuilt shaft: http://www.coloradodriveshaft.com/porsche_cayenne.htm It may be a less expensive alternative, and I have been told it is high speed balanced which may prevent bearing failure... Bob

Did my cabin filter this morning on my 2004 S.....worked like a charm. Thanks Rizzo! In fact I even had a 5.5 mm that I bought many years ago.....I think this is the first time I've used it as well!! I'm assuming this is the first time the filter has been changed.....It was REALLY filthy! Lots of dust and dirt.

The front calipers are held on with two bolts and a 21 mm socket is required, as you found out. The rear calipers are held on with two XZN internal wrenching bolts so, you would need a bit for that. I just finished my fronts yesterday. I had to hammer them off as well, but it took about four blows on each with a rubber mallet. The manual mentions that as well, but if they are really seized as yours were, I would advise spraying some release oil around the hub first......In my case they were fairly rusty as the vehicles been driven on salty roads in the winter..... No you didn't do anything wrong.....and there isn't a special tool other than the release oil...... I'll be doing my rears on Monday after I pick up an XZN bit or set.....So far I always seem to have one that's either too big or too small!! Brgds, Bob

Thanks Rizzo!! Much appreciated...

Hi all, I did my front brakes today....new rotors, pads, and wear sensors. I have all the parts for the rears as well, and I thought I had the proper size for the rear caliper mount bolts, but unfortunately I do not. The manual states, Porsche special tool # NR.33. Does anyone know what size XZN bit this is?? Thanks in advance, Bob 2004 Cayenne S

Yes, sounds logical..... I checked for any codes and nothing. I would expect a P0230 for the fuel pump primary, but nothing at all.....not even a misfire. I had a key battery low message earlier, but this has never prevented it from starting. Does the immobilizer cut ignition? In the meantime I have started it about twenty times throughout the day and it hasn't missed a beat so far, so maybe just a glitch!!!

Hi all, I had an unusual glitch this afternoon. I drove to the store, about 10 minutes away, shut the car off and when I came back about 15 minutes later the starter engaged but the engine didn't start. I let the starter crank about 5 seconds before selecting the key off. When I re-engaged the starter about 5 seconds later it started right up and ran fine.....I haven't checked the codes as yet, but I suspect I will have a miss fire....The only thing I have done to the engine lately is new plugs about two weeks back.....and it has been running fine. Anyone else ever have this happen?? Rgds, Bob Sorry, should have mentioned: 2004 Cayenne S....

You will need a small set of torx bits, torx female sockets, and a few triple square bits......When I say a small set several companies sell a set of six popular sizes. In my case find I get away with three or four sizes in most instances. For the triple square, these are a 12 point bit used on an internal wrenching screw or bolt. So far I have seen them on seat bolts, engine torque links etc. I have used two, a 10mm and a 12mm. I have attached some examples from SK Tools...Hope this is of some help... Bob

Thanks, I've been through them several times and they are excellent...... The brackets are shown in the service letter 45/07. I just wasn't sure if they are different than the original parts. In any case they are not expensive so I'll order them up..... I'm still waiting for the shop manual for this so I'm sure when I get that it will answer the questions......What the service letter doesn't mention is the gasket and the sealing ring for the thermostat housing which leads me to believe it doesn't have to be removed.....Having said that though, I would think it would make access to the lower to removal and assembly a bit easier IMHO... By the way, as far as the local Porsche dealer is concerned there is not kit per se....all parts have to ordered separately, so I just want to make sure I have everything before I rip into this......

Thanks wvicary, I have sent in a request to Sunset.... Do you know if the existing brackets on the upper pipes needs to be changed?? Bob

Hi all, I added a 2004 S to my Porsche stable two weeks ago. It is in pristine shape with relatively low mileage. Right now the car has no issues, but I knew going into this that I would have a few things that would need to be taken care of. First the coolant pipes, and possibly the cardan shaft issue if necessary...... I am preparing to change the coolant pipes in the next few weeks, and I'm in the process of sourcing the necessary parts. If anyone has any suggestions for a parts supply please let me know....Price is one factor, but also availability is important too as a few places have certain parts on back order.....I'm in Montreal Canada and the local Porsche Dealer wants about 4 times the retail price at a dealer in the US so I'm looking elsewhere.... I have a few questions after reading some of the write ups on the forums: 1 - The upper pipes are supported at the rear by an upper and lower bracket assembly. Is this the original part or do I need a new assembly? These are items 16 and 17 on PET Illustration 105-05.... 2 - Does the thermostat housing have to come off to get access to install the lower pipe, and having said that, does it have to come off to install the upper pipe assembly?? It would seem that taking it off would provide better access for the lower pipe removal and assembly but I want to be sure. 3 - Do most people change the thermostat when they do this job? It would seem like added insurance but again, I just want to be sure....Right now the car doesn't exhibit any overheating tendencies........ Any input would be greatly appreciated!! Bob

That's correct. Doing 60MPH/100KM in 3rd it sits at about 4/4.5, the minute i hit the gas to accelerate you can see the needle going down to 3.5/4. I let off the gas, and the needle goes back up again The 993 workshop manual states: oil pressure approximately 6.5 bar at 5,000 RPM with oil temp at 90 degrees C. Then in the next line it states the oil pressure indicator displays 0 to 5 bar.....Essentially at 5,000 RPM your gauge should read 5 bar. But remember they say approximately.......They do not specify the reading to be taken under heavy acceleration or deceleration for that matter. On all cars I have checked in the past I just drive the car up to a steady 5,000 RPM and check the oil pressure.......This could be done in any gear, but I would never check it under heavy accel or decel as the rapid change of oil flow in the system would cause a fluctuation of pressure..... The oil systems in theses cars are unregulated, and this is why we see the pressure change with RPM......(They do have overpressure relief by the way.....at approximately 6.5 bar) Sorry, I just realized I was referring to the 993 and you are now the proud owner of a 997.....In any case the same still applies. You should have 5 bar at 5,000 RPM at 90 degrees C.....This is stated in the 997 shop manual. Again I would take the reading at a steady 5,000 RPM, not accel or decel. Hope this is of some help... Regards, Robert

I just acquired and downloaded the 997 manuals from Porschelibrarian. Now my service library is complete. Fast service..... Thanks Porschelibrarian...Highly recommended!! NelsonMX

Nice looking ramps, and a really nice looking garage!! I made some ramps for my 997S using the same basic principal. I started out with a 3/4" piece of ply wood at the bottom. My thinking was the car would roll up onto the plywood easily making it easier to drive onto the 2 x 10 material without causing the ramps to move. Each piece has a 45 degree chamfer at the front as well. I am using one 3/4 plywood and two 2x10 's. It gives enough clearance for an oil change, but probably not too much else. They are a bit heavy but not unmananageable..... In any case they work really well. I made a set for the front as well to keep the car level for oil changes.....

My 2008 C2S has done this from the very beginning regardless of outside air temp.....In fact I have listened to several of the C2S and C4S and they all do the same......

Yes the electronic dipstick is very good. But being an old Porsche type, I miss the manual feel of a dipstick!!!! Yes I've always changed my oil at the end of break-in...As you say, cheap insurance!! So true.. The color was the only thing I didn't have a choice on as the car was already in stock at the dealer. But I got all the options I wanted and as it was a 2008 I had a very good discount. I considered ordering a 2009, but as it was a new model I wasn't sure about any issues with the new cars....So far I couldn't be happier with the car. And as far is white is concerned I really do like it.....In fact, if I do buy another one in the future, it would be white!!