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spyder803

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Everything posted by spyder803

  1. Looks great, can you educate me with some more details on what exactly this does, etc.? I have a 2003 as well with the MOST fiber so I'm very interested in how the modulator all works for you.
  2. Bill, From what I have read I think your light may be coming on due to testing your switch without everything else hooked up. On mine I did not have the ignition switch in position 0. When my original piece failed it left my key stuck and I once I forced the key out I neglected to realign it before installing the new switch. So mine was not lined up correctly when I tightened the set screws.
  3. Had trouble last week getting my key out of the ignition and noticed it no longer kicked back to on once started so I did a search and followed all of the advice in the DIYs. Got the new piece in and changed them out this morning but ran into a pretty big issue, when I reconnected my battery and went to start the car I got the Airbag error and all other lights on, but the key would not turn. I have since disconnected the battery and removed the new part but does anyone have any ideas what might be wrong here? Do I reinstall it again and hope I somehow messed up the first time? Any chance this airbag light wont come back? I ordered the part from Autohauz and it is the Meyle unit. Has any else experience similar? Okay, I took it out and reinstalled it and realized things were not lining up as necessary. Turned thrned the key back and forth a couple times and then reinstalled and all is well.
  4. Did you install the mount your self or was this done at a local shop? Haven't seen any other reports of this problem so just curious.
  5. Are there any other code readers that can reset an airbag light?
  6. May not be the case but I know I have been guilty of this before so just FYI. If you know you won't be using the car for a while don't periodically start it just to let it run for a couple of minutes and shut it off. Years ago I did this with a garage queen and it only made the battery die quicker as I was not running it long enough to let the alternator charge the battery up enough to replace the voltage needed to start it.
  7. Thanks, I checked everywhere, it just isn't there.
  8. Thanks again, I have one being ordered now and should get it within the next week and a half.
  9. Thanks Loren. I have found the three digit number from the option tag is there a place where I can oder a replacement online?
  10. I just realized that the previous owner did not leave me the lug bolt key that I will need in order to remove my wheels. Where can I get a replacement key and how do I verify that it is correct? I tried Sunset but they could not help me.
  11. Try these some have pictures and descriptions that may help: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...l=dead++battery http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...l=dead++battery http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...l=dead++battery http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...l=dead++battery
  12. Battery charger that utilizes the cigarette lighter, or the emergency release cable. It is behind the right front wheel well liner. You just need to reach in there and pull the cable. There are a bunch of posts covering the exact location and I believe pictures also that may help.
  13. Here is a video I saw a year or so ago illustrating the DIY fender roll. About 4 minutes in he shows you how to do it with a piece of pipe.
  14. Spyder: Just want to make sure that you are aware of the potential problem with flooding the central alarm unit if you don't insure that your drains are draining properly, in addition to making sure that you repair any tears or rips in the foam drain pan as you are in the process of doing. To make sure that you don't have some other debris clogging up your drains, pour 1 quart of water each one of the drains after you put a catch pan on the ground just to the inside and slightly forward of each rear wheel. If you collect a full quart, your drains are okay. If not, there is a thread here that covers the procedure. Regards, Maurice. Thanks Maurice. I did quite a bit of reading here before buying my Boxster so at the first sign of moisture I pulled my seat and inserted the immobilizer unit into a zip loc bag and used my compressor to blow out the drains. It rained some last night, not as hard as the night before, but there is no water in the car this morning. If it warms up some today I plan on cleaning and treating my top and expect that that process will verify if my leak has been fixed. Thanks
  15. I have verified that both ball joints are in place on top of the driver's and passenger side rods. Perhaps one broke on the previous owner. Thanks
  16. I apologize for the crappy pictures but hopefully someone can tell what this is and explain to me where it goes: Again, I found this in a hole in my driver's side drip pan and am concerned with how it got there and if it is needed. I'm trying to repair the drip pan now.
  17. Does anyone have a picture of the white or red caps mentioned above or can describe where they are suppose to be located? My drip pan is torn and leaking and in the hole I found a white plastic cap but cannot determine where it belongs. Are these caps necessary? As I do not yet see one on the passenger side either.
  18. After a lot of looking I have finally found what I believe to be the culprit of my leak and it is the driver's side drip pan. It has a tear in it up towards the front. Not having seen one of these before it is difficult for me to understand how much is missing and if a repair will suffice. Does anyone have a picture of the drivers side pan? Has anyone tackled the task of replacing these as a DIY? Any links or pictures would be appreciate. I have seen Mike's webpage and it is very helpful. I have also seen some pictures of these removed on a red boxster but cannot see enough detail to determine how bad problem I have. I am thinking of trying duck tape with silcone over it to see if this resolves my issue. Any advice is appreciated.
  19. Thanks Sunset just responded to a question I asked on another part and I will be ordering from them today!
  20. I was afraid someone would say that. Item 10, which I believe is part number 986 504 393 00 for the left and 986 504 394 00 for the right is what I originally asked for on my price request and the salesman responded with the above diagram and stated that the items I requested are floor cover trim pieces? I've since emailed him the picture I posted and hope he comes back in agreement as I believe you and I are correct. Thanks,
  21. Can anyone confirm if I am looking at the right part? Here is a picture of the item I am trying to replace: And here is where I believe I have found it on the diagrams as part number 23. If you believe I have the wrong part please advise. Thanks
  22. Okay, I think I found my issue thanks to an old post I found. This morning when I found the dampness I started looking at the foal drain trays and drain holes and while accessing them I noticed two cips where the top material should be attached and the driver's side was not in the clip. I attached it and just moved on not thinking that it may have been my problem. This afternoon I found a post from July of last year where this was the problem for another individual. I'll know for sure tonight but I have dried the area as much as possible and verified that the area where the immobilizer computer is located is bone dry. If things are wet again tomorrow I will do the tupperware mod until I can find my problem. This may seem like a dumb question but how do I access the bolts on the front of the seat rails to remove it? I can easily get to the two bolts on the back rail but the front ones appear to be covered by a plastic molding that I don't want to force and break. Having just got the car I'm a bit rattled to already have an issue, hopefully this fixed it and I can go on and enjoy it. Thanks
  23. Thanks Mike, I had used your page to find the rear drains and have verified that they are clear. Would the parking on an incline have caused this?
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