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dtownmil

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Everything posted by dtownmil

  1. dtownmil
    So...on our 2008 Cayenne, 103k miles, we had to do the rear main driveshaft. Porsche Dealer charged us about $1500 for it. Does that sound about right? The part alone was $1100. We have the V6 model, which they said the part costs more for it than the V8 models. I would have liked to do this myself, but when they started talking about pulling the whole exhaust to get to it....I didn't want to anymore! Anyone else have these driveshaft issues?
  2. dtownmil
    My key remote only unlocks my doors maybe 1 out of every 20 presses of the button! I have to press it several times and usually end up giving up and manually locking or unlocking the doors. I've tried a new battery and it didn't help. Anything else I can do? I have similar luck when trying to open the trunk with the key remote. 2000 Boxster 2.7L
  3. dtownmil
    My coolant has been "slowly" dissappearing. Early on I could go hundreds of miles before the light would flash at me, I'd fill it and move on. Now its been more frequent. I do not see any coolant on the garage floor or driveway. I have already replaced the cap with a newer version (had the original). I thought the cap fixed the problem, but its back. I know it could be the tank, or some "Y" tube I've read about. I'm sure its been thoroughly discussed, but my exhaustive searches haven't found me what I needed. Any info would be appreciated, or if you can provide a link to a previous thread. Thanks in advance. 2000 Boxster 2.7L 60,000 miles. 5 speed.
  4. dtownmil
    You may already know this, but changing them will be a snap. Its really easy to take out the whole headlight assembly. I'm sure they are expensive, but like already mentioned, pick some up used.
  5. dtownmil
    Mostly at low speeds like going in or out of my driveway, the front end sounds like the bushings are dry and squeaking. Is there some lubrication I should do to my front end? Thanks.
  6. dtownmil
    I've been getting the blinking red light indicating low coolant. Filled it a few times. Aware of the possible bad tank, but would like to try the cap first. Cannot find the cap on pelicanparts.com. Can anyone provide a part number or better description so that I can order the right cap? Thanks in advance.
  7. dtownmil
    That's what it was. When I doubled checked them, there were several that "clicked" when I pushed down harder. Runs like new now! Thanks! FYI - changing plugs in a Boxster is definately a DIY project. If you can change your own oil, I believe you can do the plugs. Not that hard. If I had someone there who knew what that "click" would've been, it would've only taken me just under 2 hours or less. I had to jack each side up twice to recheck it and I'm still under 3 hours. I think I saved about $200 in labor. :renntech:
  8. dtownmil
    Just changed all my plugs. Was careful to plug the clip back on to the coil packs. Started it up and it seems like its "missing" on a cyclinder for something. Idled very rough. Any suggestions? All I can think is to recheck each clip on the coils. Please help!
  9. dtownmil
    I only notice it when washing the car, and it has not fallen out yet, but the entire vent assembly is loose inside the body. Anyone know if this can be tightened, or do I possibly have something broken in there? Thanks in advance.
  10. dtownmil
    I have heard that cutting open a bag of charcoal (like Kingford) and leave it in the car when not using it will absorb odor. I haven't tried this, but it sounds reasonable.
  11. dtownmil
    I wish I had known I could get oil from Sunset. I believe I paid over $6.50 per quart from Wal Mart for Mobil 1 0W40. (which I was skeptical about but works fine. No leaks and no smoke at startup.) 2000 2.7L
  12. dtownmil
    So how do I find said air leak?
  13. dtownmil
    2000 2.7L Boxster CE light came on, threw codes P1128 and P1130. Runs and idles fine. I have cleaned the MAF less than 1000 miles ago. Been running some fuel system cleaner through it. Any other suggestions? Thanks in advance.
  14. dtownmil
    I had a small quarter sized oil leak on the garage floor. I know it doesn't make sense, but after I changed the oil, put in Mobil 1 0W-40, the leak stopped completely. This would lead me to believe that the drain plug was loose, but this isn't where it was coming from. Anyway, the thinnest oil available stopped my leak. Strange I know. Also, I was worried that I had a IMS bearing going out. So much so that I was talking to Jake Raby with Flat 6 Innovations. I was scared to even fire up my car. When I had it apart to do the 60K service, I ran the engine with the covers off and could not hear the sound the way I could from the cabin before. It dawned on me that I had glued up some insulation/sound damping material in the engine compartment, and perhaps this was making the strange sound. Anyway, I now do not worry about my IMS bearing. 2000 Boxster 2.7L, 60K...runs great, love it, drive it as often as I can. Just got a CE light, but suspect its the MAF sensor again. No biggie. I've had my car about 6 mos now and love it. I've put on about 2000 miles. B) B)
  15. dtownmil
    I am having a hard time finding 5W-40 Mobil 1 anywhere. The only 5W-40 I find says it's for Turbo diesel trucks. I have found some 0W-40, but I'm not sure I like the idea of such a thin oil upon startup?
  16. dtownmil
    I would've sworn that the 60K service called for replacing the poly-rib belt, but now when I pull in the major and minor maintenance schedules (from this website) it simply says "Poly-rib belt: Check condition". Can anyone clarify? Are these things good until 90K? Thanks in advance.
  17. dtownmil
    I've also heard that it's better to change the oil in the spring due to anything that might be in the oil "settling". This advice was for my lawn mower, but the same theory would apply.
  18. dtownmil
    So using a basic Mobil 1 5W-40 from the local Wal-Mart is ok?
  19. dtownmil
    I don't think that's a bad idea at all. I too have the IMS and RMS concerns, though I think it's mostly just paranoia. Flat 6 Innovations sells rebuilt, bored over engines, but they are pricey, like $11-$15K. Their rebuilds have a new style IMS bearing that does not seem to have the concern of one day imploding. One Porsche dealer told me that Porsche has changed the design of the RMS design several times and that once you have it replaced, it won't be a problem anymore. Any truth to that? I've also seen people who've had the problem several times. Dispite the concerns in the back of my mind that my RMS is going to destroy my clutch, my IMS bearing will go and my engine will be toast...the car is such a joy to drive and I try not to let it get to me. Not every Boxster spontaneously combusts..right? Hopefully there's just more hype out there that gets everyone stirred up.
  20. dtownmil
    I've seen a lot of threads saying to use 0W-40. Is it totally unadvisable to use the more available 5W-30 Mobil 1? Just keeping an eye out for oil on sale, I've seen 5W-30 in 5qt jugs all over the place, but almost no 0W-40 or 50 anywhere. Also, Autozone seems completely baffled by the fact that I want a different type of oil than what they have on the shelf. I believe the employee's comment was "what the heck kind of car is it, a formula 1 car or somethin'?" Perhaps he'd have been able to help if I had a Mustang! Any advice on where to shop for oil? 2000 Boxster 2.7L 59K
  21. dtownmil
    I used electronic parts cleaner (CRC) and it has worked fine. I've gone about 200 miles with no CE light. I never did notice any change in the way it ran even when it threw the CE light. If CRC could not even tell you the difference in the two products, it sure seems like they just put a different label on it to market it for MAF cleaning.
  22. dtownmil
    Have 18" PZero Rosso's on mine and one of the fronts got a sidewall buldge. These tires were on the car when I bought it and the buldge was already there, so it may have been caused by a pothole or curb. I've only put on about 1000 miles on these tires, so can't speak on the wear. I like the way they feel and grip, and they are quiet. When it's time for new ones, I may choose something that wears better and opt to go away from Perrelli just because of the buldge. 2000 Boxster 2.7L 18" stock wheels 59K miles
  23. dtownmil
    The first time I heard it, I had the AC on and thought perhaps it was coming from the AC fan or something. The sound is kind of a "rumble" like you would think of a plastic fan making. My wife said "whirring noise" but I wouldn't call it a whir. Anywho, it could be just some simple vibration and nothing to worry about, but my mind is wandering about the dreaded IMS bearing failure. Can anyone ease my mind that this is not a symtom of a failing bearing and ultimately a catastrophically failing engine? Thanks for the input. 2000 Boxster 2.7L 59,000 miles 5 Spd
  24. dtownmil
    Just cleaned my MAF using some great step by step photos that I got from here. Very easy and straightforward. I hope that keeps my check engine light off for a while. Unlike others, I did not have idle or rough running trouble, just the CE light. Car was running fine. I reset the light once without cleaning the MAF and it came back on in 140 miles. So I figure I'll know in about 150 miles if cleaning it worked. Used CRC electronics cleaner on the MAF. I had previously used this on my explorer two years ago and haven't had a problem since. 2000 Boxster 2.7L 59K
  25. dtownmil
    I cannot speak from experience, but I certainly think that a few runs in your car aren't going to hurt anything. I'm sure you know better than to beat on the thing. The higher RPM you launch at and the more you slip the clutch, the harder it is on it, obviously. The goal is to launch as high as you can without spinning the tires. By the time you reach the top of the clutch, you want the car to be catching up with the RPMs and climbing (they shouldn't dip). Have fun. so what if you take a few miles off your clutch, you bought the car for fun, right?
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