Long Islander

Here's what I found. Hide Stick seems to be the best thing for this. It doesn't work instantly, but after around 10 applications of it left on the stain for 10-12 hours each time, there's a huge difference. The ink mark is now a very faint light blue mark that you have to look for to even see. It's about 95% gone, with no other damage. Hide Stick is like a very large clear Chap Stick. You rub it on and wait. Then, you rub it off with a white paper towel that's doused with isopropyl alcohol. You need to take single wipes on an unused section of paper towel, not back and forth. I did this each night when I parked the car in my garage, and each morning when I got to the train station parking lot. The daytime applications resulted in very noticeable improvements by end of day. Each evening, the temperature gauge read over 89 degree, so something about the heat seems to have helped. I'm going to use the Hide Stick some more when I'm at home and I can park the car with the console angled toward the sun and the door open. Hopefully, with a few more applications, the ink mark will be completely gone. I looked into Leather Master Ink Away, but I was told it would only work if the ink was on for less then 5 days. It might be a good idea to have some around just in case. Wyovino -- if you need to touch up interior parts, the better solution is to get some custom-mix dye made up by Color Plus or Leatherique. I re-dyed seats on a BMW and Jaguar with very nice results using dye from Color Plus. Leatherique has a lot of standard European dyes in stock.

Thanks, I'll add that to my list of more things to try. According to a detailing shop I spoke with, the active ingredient in hair spray is isopropyl alcohol. I tried an alcohol prep pad on the stain and it didn't do anything. I later tried it on a stamped-on ink price on a jar and it removed it immediately. I think there is something about the texture of this console. I looked closely at the mark and it most definitely has the thickness and appearance of a black ballpoint mark -- not a felt tip and not a scratch.

Thanks. I actually tried Mr. Clean Magic Eraser with some trepidation. I use it around the house to get scuffs off walls. It works so well on walls that I have to believe it has some acid in it (I always wear gloves when I use it). Anyway, I used it lightly and not for very long but didn't notice any improvement. I'll see if I have some isopropyl alchohol around the house (I know I have some alchohol pads, not sure if it's the same stuff). The trick here is to use something that will get rid of the ink stain without melting the plastic/vinly or eating the textured paint on it. I did some research and read about people using hair spray. I figure, if you can spray it on your hair without melting your hair, it probably won't damage vinyl or plastic. Any other suggestions are welcome.

I've got what looks like a black ballpoint pen mark on the driver's side of my console on my other car, and I can't get it off. I already tried: Goo Gone, Mr. Clean, Armorall Interior Cleaner Blue Coral Interior Cleaner 3M Adhesive Remover Hide Stick I even took it to a local detailing shop and they tried some Prep-Sol, which didn't work either. I seem to recall years ago using something called Afta with a toothbrush on a light grey interior that had a couple of blue ballpoint pen marks. Any suggestions?

Thanks Loren. I'll order a new cap.

Squeeking sounds often come from leather or vinyl rubbing against other plastic,vinyl or leather surfaces. A little leather or vinyl conditioner will make those parts less dry and could eliminate the squeeks you're hearing.

I changed the brake fluid last week. I had the droplets before the brake fluid change as well. Should I get a new seal for the cap, or get both?

I'm noticing small droplets of brake fluid on top of my brake fluid reservoir when I open the front trunk. Since the droplets are on top, I don't think I have a crack in the reservoir. Does this mean I need a new cap, or do I just need to close it more tightly?

Nicely done! Did you buy a USB panel mount so that you could cut a rectangular hole in the plastic and then screw from the front into threads behind the plastic?

Yes. See my post above for the part number. You need to buy the unlighted visor mirror which comes with the lid, then detach the lid and use it to replace the broken one on your car like I did.

Thanks. I actually did not have to remove the mirror assembly from my visor. I removed the flap/cover from the part that I bought (986-731-901-00-01C, which as a bonus has no warning sticker). As others have said, this is not at all easy. At one point, I was about ready to just cut the frame (which I didn't need) just to get the cover out. Removing the mirror from the frame allowed me to flex the frame around enough to get the divots in the cover to clear the pins. You don't need to remove the clips. I saved mine in case those break soon. As someone said on the other thread, getting the cover into the frame that was still in the car was easier because the pins are beveled. However, there is s small plastic tab at the hinge side of the cover which has to go between the copper contact tab (this turns on the lights) and the frame. I hadn't noticed this, so I spent some time trying to slip the copper contact tab to the correct position.

Loren, could you send me the visor mirror disassembly instructions? I'd like to avoid breaking any plastic pieces. Thanks.

I ordered the "unlighted" mirror flap assembly for under $20 figuring that I'll remove the flap and just use that to replace my broken flap. I'll have to figure out how to (a) remove the new flap from the rest of what comes with it, and (B) install the flap on the "hinges" on my visor. If anyone has any hints, I would greatly appreciate hearing from them.

The cover on one of my visor vanity mirrors just broke. Assuming I can buy just the cover, does that snap right in? I notice there are pins on each side that fit into holes on the cover. I read all the threads on visor cover issues, but I don't see anything dealing specifically with reinstallation of the replacement cover. Attached are photos of the broken and unbroken side of the inside of my mirror cover.

Well, I ordered the wheels. When the tires are on, I'll try them out and see if they rub in the rear. I called a shop that can roll the fenders lips, and it's not a lot of money, but they did advise me that since it involves bending the fender lip, the paint might crack and need to be touched up inside the lip. So, for various reasons, I'm noping I don't need to have it done.

I know this is an old thread, but I'm about to order Porsche OEM Sport Techno wheels with 11x18 ET 63 and 295/30x18 rears for my 2001 C2 (narrow body). This is the same as the GT3 spec, so I'm wondering whether I need to get the rear fenders rolled. Pac911, how did this work out for you? Did you get the GT3 wheels without fender rolling? In the event I need to get the rear fenders rolled, how big an expense is this? Thanks.

In my experience, 3 weeks is usually enough for the battery to go dead if it's not connected to a charger. If you disconnect the battery, that might make it last longer. However, if it does go dead, I don't think you can attach a jumper cable to the fuse box and get the front trunk or rear lid open that way, so you'll surely be stuck. If you want to disconnect the battery, then you should leave the front or rear lid open and remove the bulb for that compartment. That way you'll have access to either the battery itself or the charging post in the engine compartment.

Great item. I'm glad I replaced my useless ashtray with this.

My wife's Mercedes wagon was rear ended to the tune of $3800 of damage -- enough to activate the active head restraints. The car was 2 years old and in pristine condition at the time. After it was repaired, I sent a letter to State Farm (the at-fault driver's insurer) claiming DV. I did some research and found a place that would do a full appraisal for around $300 and another place online that would do a DV report based on inputs on the car's mileage, model, year etc. I went with the latter (sorry, but I don't remember the name -- something like www.dvreport.com) and got a DV report showing around $2k of DV. State Farm haggled with me a bit but we settled on $1750, which I thought was pretty reasonable. Note that State Farm lost a case in Georgia against its own insured for a DV claim. There is no state where the at-fault insured's insurance company can deny a claim for DV to the other party -- that is just part of compensating you for the damage that their insured caused to your car. The toughest part is demonstrating the value by which your car declined without paying hundreds of $$ for an expert appraiser.

I've done this and would not recommend it unless you have to do it (like to replace the gas door spring as I had to). There's a high risk of damaging the gas door or your fender. I would remove the front tow hook instead.

And there's no harm in mixing them is there?

I'm planning on changing my oil in the next couple of weeks. I have a quart of Mobil One 5W40 sitting around, and I'm planning on using Mobil One 0W40. Can I mix one quart of 5W40 with 8 quarts of 0W40? Both are approved viscosities.

I also have stock 17" rims, and I've been wondering the same thing. The 205's are just too skinny, and result in significant understeer.

I've had my car for just over ten years now, and I've never driven it in the rain, so I've never used the wipers. I'm thinking of just removing the wiper arms permanently because they just get in the way when I wash and dry the car. They look easy to remove -- I assume I pry off the cover caps to expose the nuts, then unbolt using a socket, then just lift off the wiper arms. My question is what to do with the stubs that remain. They'll need to be covered with something. Any suggestions?

You should be able to get matching dye from this place. http://www.goestores...ept-231236.aspx I think they sent me a color chart that I used to find the best match for my interior.