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  • Present cars
    1998 Porsche Boxster, 1985 Honda Prelude

Porsche_Joe's Achievements


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  1. I have this same problem, what costs were involved, thanks I paid $609.48 for the rear trailing control arms and $28.54 for the nuts and bolts, a total of $638.02. I installed them myself so there was no labor charge.
  2. My car is a 98 with 79,810 miles. I had the same clunking sound from my rear suspension. I replaced the trailing control arms today and the clunking sound is gone. I also installed new nuts and bolts. I could not move the bearing on the new arms but the old bearing could be moved easily with my fingers after it was removed from the car. It seemed fine when it was on the car. I don't see how you can check them without disconnecting the trailing arm from the lower control arm. Then you can move the arm and feel the movement at the bearing.
  3. My oil separator and bellows tube (oil vent line) was replaced in January of 2004 by the dealer. The labor was 2.55 hours @98.00 = $249.90. The oil separator (996-107-023-03) was $97.82 and the bellows tube (996-107-145-06) was $30.01 for a total parts cost of $127.83. Total cost of repair was $377.73. I would have tried to do it myself but my Geico extended warranty covered the repair minus the deductible.
  4. When I pulled into the garage tonight I noticed an abnormal buzzing sound coming from the front of the car. After 74,000 miles in the car I am pretty familiar with the different sounds the car makes and this one is new. The sound is not present when I turn on the ignition switch but begins when I start the car. The buzzing is loudest at the front fender wells on both sides of the car. I opened the front trunk and the sound was not coming from that area. The sound is not related to the radiator fans since it is present when they are on or off. No fluids leaking from the front end. The coolant and power steering fluid levels are normal. I tried cycling various items like AC and traction control but the buzzing remains. I was thinking it may be the fuel pump (I am familiar with the “normal” sound it makes) but I thought the buzzing would be louder when I opened the trunk. Has anyone had experience with this problem?
  5. I agree with you jnc. I would run the tests that you described and make a decision based on those results. BTW Moose, the regulator is built into the alternator. The car does not have a separate regulator. The purpose of the regulator is to convert the alternator AC to DC and to limit the amount of DC current to the battery. AC ripple is something the regulator is suppose to eliminate. I also do not understand what the guy means by “No diode ripple detected”. To me that would be a good thing, however, the regulator cannot totally suppress the AC ripple so perhaps his instrument is capable of detecting a very low AC ripple reading which would be present on a properly functioning alternator/regulator. Since none was present this meant the alternator/regulator was not functioning. My alternator came from the factory with to much AC ripple. It was fine when the ambient temperature was cold but on hot days, all lights on the car would flicker lightly, the stereo and AC blower would pulse on and off at a very fast rate. You could see the problem by connecting an analog voltmeter across the battery. The needle would fluctuate at a rate base on the engine RPM. The higher the RPM, the faster the fluctuations. The alternator was replaced under warranty.
  6. The air pump runs after starting while cold. It usually stops as you drive off but may go on and off periodically, especially while at idle. When the car has reached normal operating temperature the pump is no longer active. This means if your pump is running after warm up and is the source of your noise then something is keeping the pump on all of the time and the pump itself may not be the problem. You can unplug the pump anytime but if you do it when the car is cold you will probably get a CEL during warmup. The CEL can be reset by disconnecting the battery for about a minute. I would warm the car to normal operating temperature before unplugging the pump. This should eliminate the CEL issue. Since the plugs were changed recently, I would re-torque them unless the noise is definately not coming from the bottom of the engine.
  7. Thanks, I feel a lot better since you got fresh oil the second time. The consistency of the oil was much thicker than Mobil 1 and it even smelled different leading me to believe I was getting something other than engine oil. This tells me that oil in this area tends to stay put when the engine oil is drained. As I stated earlier, perhaps this should be drained periodically especially considering the information in your post. Thanks for responding to my post.
  8. Thanks for the information. I don’t remember the size of the hex bolt but 17mm may be right. I looked at the exploded view in the shop manual and the plug I am referring to has the spring and plug inside, however, it is located at the front center of the engine, near the coolant drain plug. The oil was very thick, similar to transmission oil. If that is engine oil then the oil does not drain from this area during normal oil changes. It seems that the oil may be “trapped” in this area which would help explain the consistency I noticed. Perhaps this area should be drained periodically so it is replaced with fresh oil.
  9. There is a drain plug on the bottom of the oil pump. Mine was loose and some oil dripped out. I have since tightened the plug but I am concerned about it since the oil did not seem to be engine oil. Does anyone know if anything other than engine oil would be present in this area? If it is something other than engine oil, what kind of oil is it and where is the fill hole?
  10. Sorry, my car is a 986 so I posted in the wrong forum. I'll try again.
  11. There is a drain plug on the bottom of the oil pump. Mine was loose and some oil dripped out. I have since tightened the plug but I am concerned about it since the oil did not seem to be engine oil. Does anyone know if anything other than engine oil would be present in this area? If it is something other than engine oil, what kind of oil is it and where is the fill hole?
  12. I have had two problems in the secondary air system causing the codes you described. Both problems caused a slight change in the sound of the secondary air pump which I noticed before getting a CE light. The first problem was a defective air injection valve (993-113-245-01). The cost for dealer replacement was $67.65 for the part and $279.30 for labor. Before the CE light came on I noticed the sound of the air pump was slightly lower; sounded like something was clogging one of the air lines creating resistance which caused the pump to operate at a slightly lower speed. The second problem occurred the morning after the oil separator was replaced. I noticed the air pump seemed louder, like it was running at a higher speed. The oil separator is near the air pump so I figured an air hose was left disconnected causing less resistance for the air pump, hence the higher speed. It turned out there was a large crack in the tube that runs between the air change over valve and the electric changeover valve. The technician showed me the tube and it was very brittle so it was probably broken when he changed the oil separator. They did not charge me for the repair but it would have been relatively inexpensive.
  13. Yes, Porsche_Joe is Joe King. I have the the 15 volume Porsche Boxster Shop Manual. There are a couple of diagnostic volumes but I have yet to find a cross reference to convert a P1123 to a DTC 27 which is the way it is listed in these manuals. Do you have the part number for the OBDII manual and does it have a cross references to provide the conversion from PXXX to DTC XX? Maybe I am missing something in my shop manuals. Thanks! Thanks
  14. My engine check light is on so I connected an OBDII code reader and I have a code of P1123. Does this correspond with DTC 123 in the shop manual? DTC 123 is the dual engine temperature sensor. One part of the sensor operates the dash temperature gauge and the second part feeds temperature information to the DME to help adjust the fuel mixture during warm up. This second function corresponds to my symptom. The CE light will only come on as the car nears normal operating temperature and it has to be idling (usually stuck in traffic). If I am able to avoid idling during this particular part of the warm up cycle then I never see the light. I checked the sensor with an ohmmeter. It read a higher resistance when cold than the factory spec but about right with the engine at normal operating temperature. I want to make sure I am on the right track before I replace the sensor. Any information you can provide will be greatly appreciated.
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