viper501

I am just wondering at what point someone is going to initiate a class action lawsuit about these failures. Its clear that there have been many more than one should expect on any modern automobile, much less one of this caliber.

Might try Gert at Carnewal.com . Not something that he lists as I recall but he might be able to get it. With the exchange right now it might not be pretty though.

Dealer sounds like an idiot or a huckster. Won't give you the part number? When did part numbers become top secret? Why don't you try Brandywine or Suncoast or Sunset and see what they say.

This is getting interesting. I'm just hoping we can find them inside the U.S. so we don't get raped on the exchange rate ....

I'd suggest driving an 996 tip and 6 speed, assuming Scott's lovely wife isn't a factor in your decision. :) I think you'll find the 6 speed much more enjoyable to drive. My 99 is a daily driver and I've been very happy with it as such. Personally, given the choices you've put forth, I'd probably go with the Boxster S for both the lower miles and the 6 speed.

Good luck with Carmax. Colleague of mine had a time with them on his fiancee's car. They were fine about 'fixing' things but they never did the work they said they did. Though he did manage to get them to pay for an independent shop to do the work.

Most are not worth the paper that they are printed on. Porsche's is obviously a different story. But, the aftermarket companies put lots of fine print in and then they put the burden on you to prove that the part/failure/etc is covered and not excluded by some clause. I'd save the cash and invest it. You may end up paying more but at least you know that you haven't bought something useless. As way of illustration, my next door neighbor bought an M5 and aftermarket warranty from the dealer. The tranny goes bad a few months back, not as a result of any abuse but a fairly well-know design flaw. The independent BMW tech (great guy, very reputable) yanks the tranny and tears it down. Finds that there is a detent inside of the case that has spun itself off-axis. Warranty company sends someone to 'inspect' it. They say its not a 'lubricated' part of the tranny and is excluded. Well that's interesting seeing how its covered in lubricant. I referred him to a local consumer law attorney, who he is having to pay, to get the warranty company to do what they were supposed to do in the first place. Its all a big game to most of them and they'll deny the coverage until you force them to do the right thing, and what they should have done in the first place. So, rant mode off, get the Porsche CPO or save your money. My two cents worth, YMMV. :) And Congrats! Great car.

Ick! Any of the above are not going to be good. I'd get it to a shop ASAP and have it diagnosed professionally. How long have you had the car and have you had any previous problems with the engine?

It really sounds like a sensing issue. I would check with Loren or Toolpants to get a schematic of where in the door that switch is located. I'd bet that its corroded if this is a daily driver for ya. Even if its not, there may be enough corrosion to cause a failure. Its also possible that there was a mechanical failure of the switch itself but I'm more likely to believe corrosion. Shouldn't be too difficult to diagnose once you find the switch itself.

Sounds like you have a problem. As I understand it, there is a microswitch in the door handle that senses the door being opened and drops the window enough to open the door.

Ain't that the truth!

If you pull the covers above the battery, there are a couple of grommets there that you can route through. I can't remember exactly where at this point, although with the radar detector install I'm getting ready I'm sure I'll be seeing them soon. :D

Well, I took the plunge and ordered the kit from Carnewal. Loren's instructions are great as long as you read them *carefully*. Please note that the passenger side is the LOWER hose and the DRIVER IS THE UPPER HOSE. Don't make my mistake and waste a lot of time trying to figure out how to position the driver's side hose on the lower part of the radiator. I've taken a few extra pictures to show how I believe the driver's side hose should be positioned. I'll add them to this post later. Despite having cleaned out my radiators before, they were disgusting again. As you can see from the photos, there was a lot of junk in the front of them as well as jammed between the condensors and the radiators. I spent a good deal of time with my compressor blowing a couple pounds of sand out of them. Also, I had to position the ducting on the 3d radiator prior to bolting the radiator together. My duct wasn't maked in any way to show which way was supposed to go up. It took a few minutes but became apparent that the duct should be positioned so that it comes out several inches from the bumper support. The duct pictured in Loren's install isn't quite the same as mine. Hopefully, I haven't got the wrong duct. We'll see when I put the bumper back on how things match up. Was sort of surprised that thier is no ducting on the rear of the radiator. I suppose that there is enough open space behind to allow the hot air to escape but it still seems that there would / should be some sort of ducting back there.

Here's pics of my C2 install. The new amp is in the same general location as the old factory amplifier. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...84&hl=audio

C4 changes things a bit I'm sure. Unfortunately, I'm not sure how. Can you post a pic of the front trunk?

I suspect that the model change is the changeover from the standard audio wiring to the MOST fiber optic system. Loren can likely confirm that information.

Niclas, check and see whether your car is already running an amp. In my car, it was in the front trunk area just forward of the firewall (between the spare tire and the battery tray). If so, you can unplug the factory amp, remove it, and tap into the signal output there. You can also use the factory harness to pass the amplified signal from the amp to the speakers, its just a pain to figure out because the wire colors may change between the amp plug and the speakers. I've posted some pics somewhere on here of how I've mounted my amp. If you can't find them, let me know and I'll take a couple new ones for ya.

Its my understanding that the Porsche seat, previously and possibly still made by Brittax, fits in the back facing forward.

Just get one that isn't as "loud" as some of the more extreme versions. Mine is aftermarket ( I am told it is a B&B ) and its got a nice growl when I'm on it but its fairly quiet at cruise or putting through the neighborhood.

I had the US M030 on my 99 C2 and changed recently to the X74. You'd probably be very happy with the ROW M030 but you might want to try a ride in the X74. I thought it would be harsh and choppy but was pleasantly surprised by how compliant but controlled it was. Very happy with my choice. Oh, and you can DIY on the suspension change. Just be sure to get it aligned afterward.

Unless there is a reason for keeping the switchable functionality of the PSE, I'd be inclined to go aftermarket. Its likely to be no more expensive and will probably be higher quality than the OEM unit you're relacing. Given the problems you're having with the one side, its fairly likely that the other is living on borrowed time as well. Do you have a decibel restriction that prevents you from using a louder aftermarket system?

not sure euro market gets our warranty terms.

While we're on this topic, I checked with the dealer about an alcantara headliner for my 99 C2. Their retail on it was in the neighborhood of 1500 dollars, just for the part. And, it was for a 2000 model, none listed for 1999. Does anyone know if there was a difference in the headliners from year to year for the C2? And, does anyone know where I can find one for something significantly more reasonably priced? :D

I am not sure about the ML but I know that the C class was fiber optic in 02. ML *might* not have been switched over yet as it seems to lag a little behind every other Mercedes product.

Leatherique is one product that reportedly works well on reducing the appearance of scuffs and generally restoring the leather condution. Another product that may help in that effort is http://leatherz.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?...CarCareProducts The other option is having it professionally airbrushed / refinished.