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viper501

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Everything posted by viper501

  1. LVDell, I was thinking more something akin to scamming the scammer.
  2. Ouch! That sucks. Looks like they did a number on yah. I thought you were going to sell that car? Did he mess up the driver's light? If not, I might be interested in buying it from you. Send me a PM when you get a chance.
  3. Too bad there isn't someone around who can beat him at his own game ....
  4. Loren, I've tried to access the new PDF and cannot get it to display properly. Tried other files and they work fine, just not the new RMS TSB. It downloads to my desktop and will open but won't display the text, although it does show two small thumbnails for pages 1 and 2.
  5. That's what I explained to them. I'm not sure why this is creating a problem but they are certainly not where they need to be.
  6. had my 99 996 in for a little paint work and to get the aerokit's side skirts properly flushed up on the sides. When purchased from the p/o it had a small gap, about 3mm, between the skirt and the rocker panel. The shop has a good reputation and seems to do good work. However, they have not been able to flush things up along the entire length. It has gotten better, but its still not the way it should be. So, is there a trick to flushing up the skirts? They don't appear to be damaged but they certainly aren't fitting like they should from the factory. Ideas, no matter how off the wall, are appreciated. Fortunately, they aren't going to charge me until we can figure out a way to fix the problem.
  7. You should be able to pull the speaker out and access the fender space. They'll have to pull some padding to the side to get in the space but its there. If that isn't enough room, its fairly easy to pull the side panel off and enter the open space.
  8. Car was slow to heat up to operating temp, slow to react to increased temps and slow to cool back down. Temps are now much more stable and consistent. I couldn't see any obvious signs of damage/defect on the old tstat but its clear that the change has improved things. Still recommend replacing the hoses while you're down there. I'd have saved a lot of time and aggravation if I'd been able to just cut off the hoses. Its tight down there and tough to get a grip on the larger/upper hose. Ultimately, I had to remove the thermostat housing to get the upper hose off. I'd also recommend getting a hose clamp to keep from losing as much coolant as I did during the process.
  9. Got it done. Relatively simple operation but a MAJOR PIA to get the hoses off. I'd suggest that if anyone else plans this operation they get replacement hoses. Small cost and it may as well be done while you're at it. Temps are much more stable so I think that there was a developing problem there. Thanks again to Loren for instructional assitance.
  10. You talking the side or the back? Side has a screw near the b-pillar and a bolt that holds the rear seatback in place. The piece is also tied into the b-pillar trim.
  11. The Focals went in fairly easily. My car had the 'upgraded' system with the 5 1/4 inch door speakers plus four tweeter/mid component combos in each corner. I pulled the door panels off and bolted in the new 5 1/4 focal mids. Easy drop in install. The tweeters were *slightly* more involved as I wanted to be able to return to stock with no issues. I cut a piece of plastic sheet in a circle and mounted the tweeter to the sheet then mounted the sheet to the factory grill assemblies. Bolted them right back into the stock location. The rears were slightly more complicated because of the very odd shape that the OEM speaker uses. (I'll try to take a picture in a bit so you can see what I'm talking about). I pulled the side panels off and screwed a thin plywood mount to some of the interior sheetmetal. The new 4 inch coaxials are mounted to that board. The panels went right back on and the grills cover as if stock. Both sets can be removed and OEM reinstalled. The only thing left to do is design and fabricate an OEM looking enclosure for a subwoofer. Nothing huge, just something to put a little bit of the low frequency kick back into the system. Overall, I am thrilled with the results and would rate it a five on a scale of one to ten. The only complex issue was making sure I didn't break the panels in taken them out and recovering a screw that wanted to move into the rocker panels. :P
  12. Tried searching both the DIY and 996 forums with no luck. I think my thermostat has become stuck. Car is slow to get up to temp and not stable after arriving at temp. Can anyone provide me with a DIY for changing the T-stat out? Thanks. Its for a 99 996 Carerra. :thumbup:
  13. Agree with above except that the symptoms occured while in nuetral and with the clutch in. If it was truly in neutral there should not have been any clutch interaction issue.
  14. I just put a set of Focal components up front and a set of Boston Acoustic 4inch'ers in the back locations. Had to fab some pieces (panels to mount onto) to use the OEM locations. If you don't have the door speakers, you probably ought to look at four four inch two-way speakers for the factory locations and a subwoofer to add a little 'kick'.
  15. Talked to the insurance company today and it looks like they're gonna cover the tow bill as part of my towing reimbursement. :D
  16. Considering that they charge by the full hour I wasn't particularly surprised. They had to find the guilty culprit, remove it, remove the small plastic fitting that broke at the same time, drain the system, replace both parts, refill, and get the air out of the system. The thing that sort of galls me is the $44.00 charge for coolant. The house was less than five bucks and the fitting was about a buck fifty.
  17. Bill came out to two hours labor, a tank of coolant, and the part. Total just over 230 bucks. Not to mention the 125 for the tow trip. Arrggghhh
  18. An hour in the interstate headed to a hearing. Got off and stopped at a stop sign. Noticed huge cloud of 'smoke' billowing out of the rear. Pulled into a grocery store and found coolant everywhere. Got it to an independent who found a small hose spewing fluid everywhere. Thankfully, was able to get it towed to Porsche of Greenville. They didn't have the part in stock but were nice enough to yank it off of a replacement engine and are installing it as we speak. Porsche of Greenville and Billy ROCK! :clapping: :cheers: Of course, I still haven't seen the bill but at least I can cry in my beer at home tonight.
  19. Lizard1, you beat me to it. :D Although I do like seeing what it looks like behind all that carpet and plastic. :D
  20. To open the front hood, I located the emergency release up in the front bumper openings on the passenger side. Small gauge cable with a loop. It may be concealed behind a flexible shroud.
  21. Fantastic. I'd like to see all of us get to the point where the $tealer is the exception to the question. :cheers:
  22. Thanks tsweat. I wish the pics were a bit better but I think they're pretty good for a Treo 650's camera. I really liked the write on photo feature too. I'd suggest you get some white lithium grease if you don't have some already. Don't need too much, just enough to insure that it doesn't corrode and has some lubrication.
  23. Eureka! I suppose during the time you guys were typing, I was arriving at the same conclusion. I pulled the latch mechanism out and examined it up-close. The tension spring was out of a pocket on the latch and not providing any push when the latch was released. Hence, the hood could be pulled up out of 'battery' but would not pop up on its own. I disassembled the mechanism, lubed it, and re-inserted the spring into the latch. Put it back together and now all is well. Very simple to do. This is how I did it and you may find it useful. Do so at your own risk, yada yada yada. 1st, open the hood and peel back the carpet cover just inside of the latch. Next, using a flat-head screwdriver, remove the four plastic 'screws' holding the trim plate between the bumper and the hood flange. They merely turn 90 degrees (so that they are perpendicular to the car's direction of travel) and pop out. Then remove the trim piece and place to the side. Next, using a ten millimeter socket, remove the two bolts securing the latch to the car. They are located just inside the trunk under the carpet you just peeled back. Once they are removed, the latch is now only held in place by two metal cables and the alarm pin switch wires. Carefully unplug the alarm wires. Push in on a small 'latch' on the lower half of the plug and pull out the lower half. Then carefully rotate the upper half about 45 degrees (it should be fairly easy to move, don't force it) and the plug will pop out of the metal holder. Then use a small screwdriver to gently push a release clip on the plastic mounting point. This will allow the small plastic mount to separate from the wiring plug. Now you need to gently remove the cables from their sockets. Take the tension off of the upper cable and gently pull the cable up out of its socket. Then remove the lower cable in the same way. The only thing holding the latch in the car now is the alarm wiring harness. Push the rubber grommet through the body toward the bumper. You can then pull the wiring through and the entire latch will come out of the car. Be sure to set the stainless steel shroud to the side. It was not attached on my car but may be on yours. Now that you have the latch out of the car, you can see the large diameter steel spring that is wound around the large post to the passenger side of the latch. That is the culprit. The small plastic shroud over it pulled straight out and off of my latch. This is the microswitch that tells the alarm that the trunk is open or closed. Set it to the side. You should now see the latch mechanism and the hole that the spring needs to be in to function properly. I used two screwdrivers to push the other end of the spring (the end on the release / catch mechanism ) over the catch. This allowed me to push the end into the latch more easily. I then popped the spring back over the catch. Now there should be tension on both the latch and the catch. Lubricate with white lithium grease, or some other semi-solid lubricant and work the mechanism to ensure that it is functioning properly. Once you have confirmed proper function, reassemble in reverse order (i.e. put the alarm switch back on - it should snap right back in place ), pop the cable back on, thread the wiring through and secure the grommet in place, place the stainless shroud on, insert the bolts and loosely tighten things. Once the bolts are in, line up the hood and the latch mechanism and tighten down the latch. Replace the plastic bumper/body trim piece but don't insert the 'screws' until you've tested the hood a couple times. Once it is clear that the hood is functioning properly, secure the trim, replace the carpet and smile at a job well done, for free. If I can figure out how to transfer my pictures out of my camera phone I'll add some illustration to this. Hope this helps. I was frustrated as *)*^*( until y'all help me realize what the problem was. Pictures ...
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