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viper501

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Everything posted by viper501

  1. viper501
    Don't know. I was told that this was Bose but couldn't say for sure. I yanked it in toto shortly after getting the car.
  2. viper501
    No. I understand that they are driver side specific, i.e. that there are different lense configurations for you folks on the wrong side of the road. :D I'm quite certain Gert can advise you specifically though.
  3. viper501
    Might also give a try at cleaning it with some electronics cleaner.
  4. viper501
    Just saw you're in the UK. Might check with Gert at www.carnewal.com as well. Since you're not going to get murdered by the Euro, he may be a good option since he's on your side of the pond (Belgium?).
  5. viper501
    Happy to help. Those photos are from a 99. I don't know if there might have been changes to the speakers along with the other changes through the model years. A check of the part numbers might help you determine whether they are compatible or not. Frankly, if you're going to replace them anyway is there some harm that could come to the amp or are you concerned about blowing the speakers apart? IIRC, the JL amp senses the load and adapts and, as you can see, the factory speakers aint something that is going to handle that JL 500/5. Another question is can you put an ohm meter on the speaker and check the resistance?
  6. viper501
    http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=8780 Or you can buy a sheet of ABS plastic, trim it to size and attach it to the factory bracket/cover using some RTV. Not nearly as elegant as the above link though.
  7. viper501
    Contact Sunset Porsche. Plug and play install for your car.
  8. viper501
    Took a couple pictures of the dash and rear speakers that I still have sitting in the garage. Looks like the mid-range is 4 ohms. I gave my door speakers to a guy in Vermont so I can't take any pics of them.
  9. viper501
    Most common cause is the coolant tank is cracked.
  10. viper501
    They're probably too embarrased to tell you. I'll try to remember to look at the backs of the ones I yanked out when I get home and see if they indicate anything.
  11. viper501
    When my alternator died it was a *very* obvious and *very* loud death rattle. I was near the hospital and thought that a life-flight was coming in over top of me. That is how loud it was in the cabin. Dramatic failure a short time later resulted in the bearings or brushes freezing it up solid. Totally seized. 625+/- dollars later and all was well with the world. Please note that this was a non-OEM replacement.
  12. viper501
    Gary, I am getting ready to do this for my 996. Where did you get the bar assembly? I'd appreciate hearing your thoughts on it.
  13. viper501
    Loren, for giggles, when you get time can you help with the my 99 pinouts? I've done it the hard way but would love to have the diagram to double check my work.
  14. viper501
    throwout bearing? oops, just saw you have a C4. Have you had the front diff fluid checked or changed?
  15. viper501
    You can go as dark as you like on tint as long as you use a non-metallic film. I used a carbon based film for that reason. I'd suggest you stay away from any dyed films as they tend to purple over time. Check with your installer to see what he recommends.
  16. viper501
    I don't know the answer to the question but I will be very surprised if the factory installs one that is adjustable. Typically, OEM proportioning is set by the factory and is not an adjustable setup.
  17. viper501
    Old headers ...
  18. viper501
    Another view again ...
  19. viper501
    Another view ...
  20. viper501
    new headers on my 99 C2. Canadian company on ebay. All stainless, decent welds, no fitment issues other than the hardware they included was too large. Reused the OEM collector hardware. Seat of pants it seems to be breathing better at 5k rpm. No resonance but nice throaty warble, especially on startup from cold.
  21. viper501
    BMW had a serious problem with their NIKASIL series V8 engines and the I6 S54 engines in the ///M3 and the ///M Roadster / Coupes. As a result of these failures, BMW 'decided' to change out the defective engines. And as a lawyer as well (there are way too many of us in here), I'm pretty sure that there are stats at Porsche that would be discoverable and could establish a abnormally high failure rate. There are probably also a pile of memos, letters, and emails at P-car HQ that would discuss this issue as well. Unfortunately, most of the C/A litigation I have seen is just as discussed above, the lawyers walk away with a fat wallet and the consumer/class member gets a 10% discount on their next oil change or some such nonsense. If you're looking for C/A attorneys with experience suing manufacturers, you might try and locate the firm that was/is the class counsel for the litigation against BMW for exploding radiators. IIRC, they were from Illinois but it has been quite a while.
  22. viper501
    Great news GOB! :D
  23. viper501
    You can use the VW harness, I did. The car has four channels that go to the amp and are split out to 6 different locations via cross-overs. The door speakers are what Porsche passes off as subwoofers in an enclosure. The dash and rear speaker housings have a mid and tweeter in each location. If you have speaker level outputs on the AVIC, you can use line levelers to lower the voltage if you are really set on reusing the factory amp (not recommended). If the AVIC has pre-amp outputs, which I would suspect, you can put that signal into the factory amp (although you might have voltage issues). Personally, I'd recommend replacing the amp and addintg a crossover to protect the 'subs' and tweeters from the wrong frequencies. Then you can plug into the amp output wiring to go to each of the speakers. I don't have the wiring diagram but you can figure it out with a little trial and error.
  24. viper501
    That is NOT the factory tool. Given the finnicky nature of the seal, and its apparent sensitivity to improper installation, I'd be reluctant to do the install without the correct tool.
  25. viper501
    I had the US M030 as a factory installed option on my 99. I originally looked at changing it out for the ROW version but ultimately settled on the x74. I've been very pleased with the X74 but it is stiffer than a standard or M030 car. It rides very much like the GT3 cars that I've driven. Be warned though, it is substantially lower than either the US or ROW M030 (IIRC it drops 40mm) and you will probably have driveway issues on occasion, even being careful. Oh, and the install is *very* easy on these cars. I did the X74 myself and had no problems. With moderate technical ability and a spring compressor borrowed from Autozone or the like, you should be able to do it in an afternoon, even with a number of breaks.
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