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Izzy

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Everything posted by Izzy

  1. I would go for a newer 911, Porsche certified if possible. For example, got my 03 coupe with 12K miles from a Porsche dealer, low 50's. Porsche warranty until 10/09. Had a 99 that I got for High 30s wiht 35K miles 3 years ago, and the 03 seems like a better car to me. A Cayman S would be awesome (track car), low 50s or high 40s under 10K miles, if I didn't need the 911 back seat.
  2. I get about 17 city, 27 highway, and 8 on tracks. However, I do about 110 miles a week too, just going to work, and the tank needle shows 1/2. But when I fill it will only take about 6 gallons. I do not think the tank meausure is necessarily linear. So after filling the tank, drive the 100 miles, then fill again and record the gallons. then divide 100/gallons to get a more accurate read.
  3. I am surprised they ask you to keep the window up. All PCA and other clubs in the South East (NASA, Mazda, BMW, private schools) that I have been to ask for both windows down. Always for safety. The top (open or closed) is more track dependent regardless of club or event holder, Road Atlanta is top down always, Carolina Motorsports Park is top up, Roebling Road top down, VIR can't make up their mind and depends on who you ride with. That is for 996/7 and Boxters, otherwise you need a rollbar. So I bought a coupe. I did hit a tire wall once at CMP, and if my passenger window was up the glass would have landed on me. This is me at VIR, the slow pokes behind me are Ferraris
  4. Really depends on how you brake and how many miles you put on track, type of track (some will eat a pad a weekend), temperature. So yes, not bad. I just killed my OEM's pads on a track this weekend. Before that, my Pagid Oranges lasted 4-2 day weekends at VIR and CMP. Hard braking, and a track like CMP is a hard on pads. I am now running Mintex reds, get them at Pelican for $37. Same manufacturer as Textar (Porsche OEM), and so far they feel the same on the street and track, but not the same on the wallet!!! I keep a couple of boxes around just in case.
  5. If you have never done a DE, then yeah, relax. The link below is a FAQ from our local Porsche Club, should help sort out some of the questions most of us have. All you need is a helmet and a well maintained car. Instructors in the PCA are very good about not pushing you and helping you reach your comfort zone with your car in a safe environment. Just enjoy yourself and have a blast. http://www.carolinas-pca.com/Drivers_Ed/in...heets/defaq.htm
  6. I just had my driver side cat replaced by the dealer under warranty. When I tapped it with a rubber mallet it sounds like there are loose marbles in there. Is that what you got? My car is only at 20K miles, so warranty is still in effect (got a certfied P-car), so can't tell you costs.
  7. Smack, my opinion: 50% pads are probably fine for a day or two at the track. But I would do a quick flush of brake fluid. I do that before EVERY event (12 per year) and the superblue or RBF yellow come out pretty dirty. My Porsche dealer recommends it also for the PCA pre-tech inspection. I love going fast, but love stopping fast even more ;) . The engine oil I change every 3 events or so, no reason, just looking at the oil between changes and how dark it is.... Once a year drain and fill the transmission fluid. And don't forget to let some air off your tires before getting on track so maximize the contact, tires can gain a good 10-14 lbs of pressure on a hot track. Keep the tire gauge handy and measure throughout the day so you don't mess up your tires with uneven wear. Are you going to Summit Point or VIR? Correction: I agree, very track dependent. At CMP in South Carolina, I flush the break fluid as it is a HOT track for brakes. At VIR, I don't since it is a long track and most of the time you are on the loud pedal, tapping the brake
  8. A couple of thougths come to mind, investing $45 on a Motive power brake fluid system is well worth it. You can change the fluid before track events, I do, cheap insurance for $12. I have tried Pagid Orange for track events, they worked great on my 99 996. Now I have a 2003, and I did not notice any difference between the 2. I also leave PSM on, never had it on my 99, but the newer car lets me have a lot of fun without the fade. Does sound like you had dirty fluid to being with, boiled over and got bubbles in it, which made the condition dangerous. Duct cooling is a good idea regardless, can cost a few bucks to install GT3 ducts
  9. Tris, What is the mileage and when was the las time the transmission fluid and filter where changed? I would start there. I can not find a DTC 30 in my manual, but 31, 32, 33 are all related to pressure regulators. They are about $200 each if they go bad. But I would start with fluid first.
  10. I do the same, always take it off for oil changes. Left it on once, and oil got on it and it was messy. So speaking of driving the snot out of the car, going to CMP next weekend with the PCA? I will be there again, number 40 again.
  11. They are here: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?a...s&code=menu
  12. Gang, Today I was doing the standard pre-track brake fluid power bleed with the Motive. Had it for 2 years, used it over a dozen times. Only put in 3/4 quart into tank before pumping. Noticed after doing the second rear caliper that the bleeder was leaking rights at the cap/hose connection, so wanted to let you all know and to preventive care before you end up with the mess I got. 1. Look at the cap from the bleeder that connects to the reservoir 2. The clear hose connector has a "pinch" metal band to secure the hose to the cap 3. The metal band had a very small piece of hose pinched such that it allow fluid to escape. 4. Replaced the band with a screw metal clamp (small one) and problem resolved. Since this has not happened before, I am assuming that it worked itself loose over time and pressure. So wanted to let you know BEFORE you have 1/4 quart of fluid in your trunks. Lots of paper towels and kitty litter to clean those carpets, corrosive little fluid..... Cheers Izzy
  13. I dunno guys, why stop at the Nitrous. You can always add some neon strings arond the license plate, under the car (with different colors), do a nice paint job with vibrating flames or other urban scenery, put a big anthena on the roof, and fill the whole front trunk with a massive stereo system and a giant LCD screen out of the back window.... It may look cool, and bring a tear to your eye (sic). And spinners, dont forget those. Did you know that some tracks out here now have a line on their form that states no spinner rims alowed? Terrible. You have never seen the movie "Bachelor Party" with Tom Hanks? If you did, remember the scene when the "ex-boyfriend" is tryng to convince Tom to trade his girl for the 911, and Tom's mechanic buddy takes off in it..... Then comes back after "pimping" it? Classic
  14. Like Bill said, yes transferrable from private party or Porsche dealer. If you go the PCNA website, they have all hte details of and transferrability information
  15. Chuck, good thoughts, if Loren wants to move this to the non-car issues (contributing member forum?) forum we could continue the stimulating vulcan-yoda discussion. I have some thoughts too just want to keep this thread to cars. I did a google search for "the collection" and this thread and one in Rennlist show up. So the dealer or someone they know told them about it.
  16. Last time I was in the body shop (due to a minor disagreement between me and a tire wall who occupied the same space as my car), the body shop owner offered to redo my wheels, they had the equipment to recoat the wheels. So I would assume a good body shop can do it.
  17. Depending on how important stopping is for you. I think using brakes is for sissies who can't just power through turns. :drive: Seriously, I have never done that work, but I would suggest you change the carrier, specially if it is on one of the front calipers. Subjecting it to heating and cooling cycles while driving may loosen the bolt, since it is not fully seated and secured.
  18. Ultra, they are my spare wheels, not everyday wheels. I leave those alone. However, I use just regular spray paint, "Rust-oleum professional" I think it is called. each can is about $5, I use two cans. No peeling, or other issues, and my brakes get up to 650F on track (infrared therm on the rotors). So I guess you can call that baking of the paint? :) Again, with a spare set of older wheels, it can be fun to change from bright red to bright yellow (keeping the interior black for contrast) between track days, or even match the basalt black on the car since Rust-oleum has such a wide variety. And on track, a few people would come over and compliment the car on my "custom wheels". The yellow never fails to bring someone to say "penske racing yellow, that is cool". Breaks their heart when I tell them is Home Depot yellow. If you are fuzzy about the looks, you may not want to use the cheap solution and have them professional done. They will look better on close inspection.
  19. I have painted my spare track wheels for some time. They are turbo look, and all I have done is some fine grit (600) sand paper and rust oleum paint. I have had a few people on the PCA track days comment on my "special wheels", which I run along and mention that they where special order from Germany from "Hommedeepout" or whichever paint was cheap at home depot. I let my kids pick the color, glossy black or red or blue, etc. It is cool to change them out, for about $10 total. Here they are in black.
  20. If it is just for looks, I would think the lowered springs would be the low cost option. I lowered my 99 C2 with Eibach springs (stock shocks) over a year ago. Looks a lot better and, in my opinion, handles better as well. It is a about a 3 hr DIY with the right tools. Overall about 21mm lower all around.
  21. the 226 code is so special, even when I got the car from the dealer they couldn't find out what it was.
  22. I hate to say it, but you should consider getting an attorney to make sure you don't loose your position as a consumer. They had the vehicle and wrecked it.
  23. Colin You may want to invest on a steel pan cover (skid plate) now that you have the new one. Covers the oil pan under the car. I am amazed every time I liftt the car and look at the cover, the scrapes on it.....
  24. Not sure about the engine bay, sorry. Where would you have the display screen? I assumed (incorrectly perhaps) that the display in the cabin would be power source to the camera in the rear.
  25. The car phone would be the easiest location, already inside the cabin, passenger footwell in the center console. Do a search by Valentine One for the radar detector hardwiring instructions, someone did a good job of documenting with pictures which is the power feed and ground.
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