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wross996TT

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Everything posted by wross996TT

  1. Kevin @ Ultimate Motorwerks (UMW): http://www.ultimatemotorwerks.com/ Thanks! :thumbup:
  2. http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/showthr...highlight=samco
  3. How about these: http://e-partssales.com/Merchant2/merchant..._Code=POTE996IN
  4. Why don't you just try some...like 4lbs. less all around. I think 19" w/PSS9 are way better than 19" with stock suspension, IMHO.
  5. Go here: http://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.a...20Mass%20Sensor
  6. Yes, I tried them....they stay on, but the rubber things fall off. I replaced mine with ultimate pedals: http://ultimatepedals.com/
  7. I found some (maybe most) dealers know very little about our cars. They can not install turbo timers as they interfer with the alarm system. There is a warning in the manual, but I got most of my information from guys that build and re-build turbos and have to deal with the mistreatment. How often do you add oil? Do you add it to the top? Sometimes it can be overfilled, but having the intermittent smoke should not be too worrisome. Cheers.
  8. I am assuming you mean smoke, not oil comes out of the exhaust. First, what is the color of the smoke? White smoke: White smoke is caused by coolant entering the cylinder, and the engine trying to burn it with the fuel. The white smoke is steam. Blue Smoke: Blue smoke is caused by oil entering the cylinder area and being burned along with the fuel air mixture. Black Smoke: Black smoke is caused by fuel that has entered the cylinder area and cannot be burned completely. Second what you describe sounds quite normal. Third, cooling the turbos should be a habit...regardless of how far or how hard you run them (if the engage at all). Realize they are cooled almost entirely by the oil that runs through them. The second you shut your car down...the oil flow stops. Look at the turbos after a short ride...now touch them...they are hot. Just let them cool 90-120 seconds, always (even when you stop for gas).
  9. First try to reset the key fob by unlocking the car with the key and then immediately hit the unlock button on the key fob (remote will disable after 5 days of no use). Second thing to try is another reset where you remove the batteries on the key fob, place the battery in reverse polarity for 10 seconds and then re-install the battery correctly. If these things don't wotrk, I'm afraid the next solution is to go to the dealer and get it re-programmed.
  10. What year is your car? Did the car throw any codes? Have you changed your plugs with the stage 3 upgrades? 1.4 bars is too high (throttle body shut down is a little over 1.3)...I imagine it was just a spike. I guess it could be wheel slippage. I do not have this problem on my car with more mods.
  11. Could you post some pics? I would think there would be plenty of air getting to the radiators. The only duct work I know of is to cool the brakes, not the radiators as the openings are right in front of the radiators. The mesh does cut airflow, especially the dense mesh it looks like you have in your pic. This will probably not affect you unless you plan on tracking the car. I also have mesh, but much less dense.
  12. EVO uses GIAC (same as IA)...the others are Kevin@UMW, FVD, AWE, REVO...
  13. I'm confused by this statement...you've tried the cool-down cycle. This is not something you try, but do it every time you shut your car down...even to get gas. Anyway I won't preach to you. I have an 04 and it does not smell like burning oil. Hope you figure it out.
  14. Question for you...Do you cool your turbos down before you shut it off? You should idle the car for 90-120 seconds before you shut it down.
  15. Here is what I would do...Call Todd at Protomotive, Stephen at Imagine Auto, Todd at Evolution Motorsports and Kevin at Ultimate Motorwerks. (there are others AWE, Orton, RUF, REVO, FVD, etc). Be prepared to tell them what you want, how you drive, track or not, etc. Where you want to be short-term and long-term. They will provide great advice.
  16. I'm not positive, but I believe over revs. IIs are stored for ever.
  17. What is the cost of the chip? I have heard around $600
  18. Here's the deal. The upsolute chip will get you some nice gains (60-70hp) and with exhaust and maybe intake...close to 70-85 hp. The problem is that if you ever decide to go further you start all over again (with a differnt program/chip). So you have several options...GIAC has an ECU program that can be flashed onto the ECU without removing it and they have a flashloader that will allow you to switch between multiple programs. Kevin @Ultimatemotorwerks has a programmer that does that as well. The advantage to Kevin's is the program is in the programmer...no need to remove the ECU or go somewhere for the flash and he supports multiple options/upgrades. So Upsolute may be just fine for you....but if you decide you want more later....then you will pay.
  19. Start back at zero for all. Then listen to the clicks (or feel them). I have mine set 3 in the front and 2 in the rear (I have the FVD, Euro, Version). I am running 18" 235/40 and 315/30 MPSC...this will matter. If you are running 225 & 295, 4/3 will be fine.
  20. CEC in LA (Beverly Hills): http://www.cecwheels.com/tuners/tuners.sd?iid=7 But the best guy is Arling at Lucent Motors in West LA: http://www.lucentmotor.com/
  21. FVD makes an Al intake plenum. It's all about flow, so the weakest link will prevent you from obtaining the most from your "package". Exhaust and intake together will allow more flow to/from the turbos, hence increases effective HP. FVD: http://www.fvd-web.com/
  22. Short answer is no. You will have to have some bodywork done to cover the hole left by the "warts".
  23. Pasport SR7 with Shifters. (2 shifters mounted in the front and one in the rear).
  24. Very difficult to repair CF. Suggest aftermarket from FVD or get OEM from Gert at Carnewal.
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