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Everything posted by lithium1330

  1. Hi all, I am looking for some troubleshooting guidance before I get my '08 Boxster S smog. I've tried twice following the BMW drive cycle (2:10 @ cold idle, 3:15 @ 28mph, 15min @ 58mph, 5:00 @ hot idle). After which, my Durametric shows only the Evap (gas cap seal) and O2 sensor heater are in Pass (ready) status. However, my catalytic converter efficiency, O2 sensor and Secondary-air system (SAI) are fail (not ready) state. My understanding is that the DME cycles through the SAI readiness during the 2:10 cold idle cycle. However, since the SAI still shows fail/not ready, I don't know if there is a problem with the SAI? I have no CEL/code related to SAI. Is the SAI not activated b/c the ambient temp is not cold enough for the pump to kick on, and therefore it didn't cycle through? I suspect the O2 sensor, and therefore cat eff, could be result of my FVD tune. I'll have to flash back to stock if that makes a diff. For now, I am hoping to get some guidance on the SAI issue. Thanks!
  2. I'm 2.5mi from downtown MV. I did the coding for my turn-signal - I see it as a safety feature. I also replaced the orange incandesent bulb with LED bulb. Here is the video: I'll PM you my contact info. Thanks! Chris
  3. OK, it sounds like a odd request... but I just moved to the bay area (South Bay) and my apartment complex does not allow car washes. I can use the self-service wash bays, but less than ideal if I need detail my car. So, I'm looking for someone in the area with a driveway, hose, vacuum, electric outlet and running water to let me detail my Boxster once every couple months. I have my own detailing stuff/buckets, etc. In return, I can offer...the use of my Durametric Pro (coding & logging), Porter Cable DA buffer and other know-how's on working on the the 987's (and possibly 997's): I've written up articles on disabling the TPMS, removing the 987 front bumper, remove center console, do short shifter install (987/997), R&R steering wheel. And I have done IPD+GT3 TB install, R&R the headers w/ high flow cats + muffler, oil/filter change, V1 hardwire, laser jammer install (they're illegal in CA), etc. I can also offer beer - they also seem popular amongst car people. :) PM or post reply! Look forward to meeting others here!
  4. Depending on your driving habits and needs. If the car is primarily for commuting... you may be able to go with other tires, like the Hankook Ventus EVO v12. I had those on my '08 Boxster S for about 17k miles, including 10+ days of Sebring DE (solo group) and 3 trips from S. FL to North Carolina (1600 RT on HWY) for BRBS + all the shenanigans through the twisty & mountain roads (add'l 500miles on backroads). The set of Hankooks can be had for about 350 - 400 less than a set of Super Sports. Hankook v12's are very good tires for those on a limited tire budget and don't mind giving up some sticky-ness to save some money - I'm not saying the Ventus V12's drive like all-season tires tires, they are not... as I consistently running 2:40's @ Sebring with some traffic. I recently changed from the Hankooks to the Super Sports because I reason I do spend at around 6 - 8 days a year at the track, and I do take the car up to the mountains each year where I want to get the most out of the tires at these two things I love to do. So, for me, it was worth the additional $400 for the set with the Super Sports. That said, if I'm not focused on DE's or these road trips I'd probably stay with the Hankook's. They are good tires - google them and you'll find good very reviews - and the fact that you can get a set of 19" good tires for about $850 for the set... that's pretty darn good. If you use them primarily for commuting with occasional trips along HWY-1... you will be able to get 30k miles out of them.
  5. DIY Accessories Belt Replacement (Boxster) DIY Guide to Replacing the Accessories Belt in the 987 Questions/comments: PM or email me: lithium_1330@yahoo.com You can download the PDF here: https://www.box.com/s/32ftofdw935rrizmmfr4 This is a suggestive guide detailing steps one can take to replace the accessories drive belt in the engine bay of the 987 (Boxster/Cayman) cars. It is a relatively simple job that most of us can tackle. For this job, you do not need to put the Boxster top in service position, but opening it up ½ way wi Author lithium1330 Category Boxster/Cayman (987-1) - Maintenance Submitted 04/02/2013 09:00 PM
  6. DIY Guide to Replacing the Accessories Belt in the 987 Questions/comments: PM or email me: lithium_1330@yahoo.com You can download the PDF here: https://www.box.com/s/32ftofdw935rrizmmfr4 This is a suggestive guide detailing steps one can take to replace the accessories drive belt in the engine bay of the 987 (Boxster/Cayman) cars. It is a relatively simple job that most of us can tackle. For this job, you do not need to put the Boxster top in service position, but opening it up ½ way will give you more standing room to work with. Like everything else you do on your car… you’re hereby fully responsible for everything. Per PCNA, the accessories belt should be replaced every 6yrs or 60k miles. Good news is if the accessories belt snaps, you engine will still run..., but it will also cause you a nice detour from whatever you were doing. So, it's wise to get the belt replaced at the recommended service interval. And because it's a relatively easy "job", this is very much a DIY with a couple hours of time. Here is the link to the PCNA service interval page: http://www.porsche.com/usa/accessoriesandservices/porscheservice/maintenanceintervals/ Remove the firewall carpeting behind seats. • Move both seats up to the forward most position so you have room to work. • Un-latch and move the subwoofer back (no need to remove the unit) so you can access the fasteners on firewall carpeting. If you don’t know how to un-latch the subwoofer, you can find that information ½ page down in my other DIY article. • Once the sub is pushed back a few inches, you’ll be able to lift up on the top carpet. Underneath which you’ll find these plastic fasteners - lefty-losey. There should be 4 of them (IIRC). • After undoing the fasteners, you can lift the firewall carpet from top, up and out. The sides and bottom of the carpet is simply tucked in to the trims. • This will then expose the aluminum firewall, connect to the car by 9 bolts with 10mm head. 8 of them are circled in picture below, the 9th is right behind the arm-rest. You can’t miss it. The alum trim can be sharp, so wear gloves & also put a towel over the arm rest so nothing gets cut up. • After you removed the alum cover, you’ll have the engine & belt in front of you.   • Next step is to remove the belt. IMPORTANT: Before you proceed further, take note on how the belt runs around the different pulleys. You can draw a diagram, take pictures, capture in videos, or if your spouse is the type who never forgets a thing, have him or her memorize how the belt runs around the different accessory pulleys before proceeding ;) – note side that’s ribbed vs. not. You need this information so you can put the new belt back on the same way it came off. • The belt is tensioned on via a tensioner pulley. Take a crescent wrench to the hex (6-sided) nut of the tensioner and turn (I can’t remember which direction now - sorry). But, essentially the crescent wrench is used as leverage to move/rotate the entire tensioner pulley unit to take tension off the belt and allow the belt to come loose. Note the hex-nut itself should not rotate when you turn the wrench. Read: the wrench turns/moves the entire pulley. • Remove the old belt, replace with new one. There are different ways to run the belt to get the new belt back on. For me, it was easier to start around the water pump (bottom on passenger side), around the accessory pulleys on top, around the driver side then back to the tensioner pulley. • This project will try your patience. The new belt will be tighter fit than the one you removed…, so you may likely struggle a bit to the new belt back on. Take a break or two if you need. • Remember, you do need the crescent wrench again to rotate the tensioner pulley when you put the new belt back on. • Once you’re done… double check all belts are on correctly as before (fully seated correctly and looped around in the correct paths). • Before putting the alum cover and carpet back on, you can/should start the car up with cover off to check a 3rd time – make sure everything is working. • Reinstall the cover, carpet and that’s it for another 60k miles. For Reference, here are the different moving pieces: From driver side looking in: From passenger side looking in:
  7. So, I tried (keyword) replacing the front side signals (blinkers) with canbus LED bulbs (built-in load resistors). After I put the LED bulbs in and I turn the lights on (parking or headlights), the side lights no longer light up. The tail lights will come on, the city lights come on, but nothing from the side markers (the orange light housing that most everyone do as their 1st mod). Anyways, the lights will blink fine (I had it re-programmed to blink as indicators) when I put on the turn signal, hazards or arm/disarm alarm. But the lights won't come on now. Even more strange, when I put the incandescent bulbs back in, the incandescent bulbs also do not come on (again, they blink just fine with turn signal/haz, etc.). I just quickly tried with a (low end) volt meter to the bulb socket and it seems I get a steady 10v when I turn the lights on, but and nothing changes when I turn the lights off and on again. What should I be looking for? It is as if there isn't sufficient current/power going to the LED or incandescent bulb to power it. I have since put the incandescent bulbs back in, disconnect the battery for about 15 sec, try again... but still nothing changed. Any idea/suggestion? Thanks!
  8. Downloadable DIY guide on how to replace the engine air filter on your 987.1 Boxster. Should also be applicable for Cayman. Enjoy! PDF available here: https://www.box.com/s/2b0a1132ac51680b0d6b
  9. Here is my write up on installing the short shift on the 987.1.. the procedure should also apply to the 997.1 since they share the same part #s. Possibly work for .2 also. http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/41495-center-console-removalshort-shift-kit-install/page__pid__220987#entry220987
  10. Center console removal/short shift kit install Step by step guide on DIY center console removal and short shift kit install. Works on 987.1 Boxster and Cayman. Has not been confirmed, but may also be applicable for 997.1, 987.2 and 997.2. You'll need a Torx T25 to remove the carpet covered trim and T20 for all the other trim screws. 987.1 Shifter Install DIY.pdf Author lithium1330 Category Boxster/Cayman (987-1) - Accessories Submitted 05/05/2012 08:39 PM Updated 05/04/2017 04:00 PM
  11. Step by step guide on DIY center console removal and short shift kit install. Works on 987.1 Boxster and Cayman. Has not been confirmed, but may also be applicable for 997.1, 987.2 and 997.2. You'll need a Torx T25 to remove the carpet covered trim and T20 for all the other trim screws. 987.1 Shifter Install DIY.pdf
  12. In my 2008 Boxster S, there is no need for resisters. I got a pair of LED festoon bulbs from superbrightled.com and they just worked out of the box. No light out error, not need to wire a resistor inline to the bulb.
  13. I've heard good things about Hankook EVO 12..... and cost about 1/2 that of PS2's. For everyday street used and sprinted driving, the Hankooks should fit that bill. Here is the comparison by C&D: http://www.caranddriver.com/reviews/comparisons/09q2/tire_test_nine_affordable_summer_tires_take_on_the_michelin_ps2-comparison_tests/hankook_ventus_v12_evo_page_10 I'm due for a new set of tires and will likely buy these for weekend sprinted drives and 4 - 5 DE's/yr.
  14. 987.1 Front Bumper Removal Please see PDF attachment for procedure 987.1 Bumper Removal Procedure.pdf Author lithium1330 Category Boxster/Cayman (987-1) - Maintenance Submitted 01/09/2011 11:11 AM Updated 08/13/2017 07:56 AM
  15. I just submitted the attachment to the DIY tutorial - now posted here: Hope this helps. Feel free to shoot me an email/PM if you have questions. Thanks Loren for quick approval.
  16. Please see PDF attachment for procedure 987.1 Bumper Removal Procedure.pdf
  17. I have the FVD software in my '08 Boxster S. I selected FVD primarily because they're a local vendor and I have top notch customer service. As far as gains... I would estimate gain from FVD would not be much difference than others. Some vendors may claim higher HP/TQ just to "win" customers over, but even back to back dyno runs can/will yield different results. So, delta in HP/TQ difference between vendor claims don't really matter. Rhonda & Flo @ FVD are great to deal with.. give them a ring and they can give you the run down on their tuning program.
  18. I have an '08 Boxster S that did the same thing when I drove it home from the dealer... issue turns out to be defective radio. Dealer remove and replaced the fuse, did a hand-off with PIWIS. That "fixed" the problem for a while, a couple months later the radio wouldn't turn-on. Took to dealer 2nd time and they replaced the unit. Apparently the CDR-24 issues are fairly common. G'luck.
  19. Probably not normal... keep the 22" on the driver side, and you may want to consider 21" wiper (on this one side) to see if that works better.
  20. Not much help, but there have been many problems reported on the CDR-24. My unit, from a '08 boxster, will to go back to the dealer a second time in 6 months as the radio now won't power-up at all. Since the radio is not a user serviceable item, I suggest taking back to the dealer before CPO expires.
  21. You'll need to do your own research & check references, but to get started.. go to your preferred film supplier website, search for a film dealer by location (state, city or zip) and start calling. For me (I have xpel.com), I found my dealer by searching for installer on xpel's site, then looked up the installer's credentials. I picked my installer as they're the only 3M authorized installation trainer in S. FL and also moves the most inventory (meaning they sell (and I assumed installed) more films than other installers in this area). I then called them up, visited their shop to asked for pictures and references. It just so happens they had a Diablo getting film installed. So, that was pretty good sign. The shop is very clean and installer had good lighting to work from. While I was at the shop, I just shoot the sh!t with the installer to get a feel of his attitude, what if I have problems after install, etc. You can also check with local high-end body shops or your dealer to see who they use. Though, if you ask your sales guy, s/he may say they sell the service (@ a premium). HTH.
  22. If you have a leak, you'll want to fix that quick. Brake fluid will eat paint - if only small leak, it may just take the caliper paint. If more, you risk getting that on the wheel and body panel. Take a (IIRC) 10mm wrench to the bleeder screw that's leaking... loosen it up just a little bit then tighten it up again. Wash the bleeder screw/plug/caliper with water and a rag (to make sure you wish off any residual brake fluid). Dry everything up with a paper towel (screw, rubber plug, etc.) - you don't have to cap the rubber plug yet. Turn on the car and stand on the brake and see if the pedal gives you that "sinking" feeling. It should be relative solid about 1/2 way down. Count to 10, then go do a visual on the bleeder screw (around the base and inside the bleeder screw) to make sure everything is still dry. G luck.
  23. There is an article posted to another board... I used it couple weekends ago and it was helpful. After you do this once, you probably don't need to follow the instructions again - it's straight forward. http://www.planet-9.com/reviews/showproduc...102&cat=500
  24. Yup, they removed the procedure from 2007-on, though the procedure itself has not changed. I just did it last weekend and it wasn't too bad at all. If you have Bose, you'll need to remove the sub. If you are opening up the engine bay, you should have a toolbox with a set of torx ready.
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