jefla

My 2000 base w/ 42k miles suddenly has starter problems. Car/starter has always started/worked fine. Today, after car sat for about a week, I tried to start it; hand slipped off the key so it was a very brief effort but it was turning over. When I turned the key again, and ever since, the starter is spins but it's not engaging. All I get is the sound of the starter motor humming away. If it's the starter should I let the guy at the Exxon station, who I trust w/ my Dodge truck, do it? Jef

CJ --this is a long shot, but maybe your noise involves the onboard refueling vapor recovery (ORVR) system that's been causing noises on my "00 base. See http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=15730. In short, I have a whinning or whistling noise coming from the front right of the car, which is most pronounced around 2500 rpm. In its early days it definitely "whinned", like a wheel bearing. It's source is the vent hole in the front of my gas filler cap, which is part of the ORVR. good luck

I finally went to the PCA tech website, and found part of an answer to my dilema. The question presented was: "awhile back I posted a message on a howling sound at certain RPM's. I finally found the source...a vent in the fuel filler cavity. This vent (the one facing the front of car) appears to be part of the emmisions control system and at about 3000 RPM has enough suction to howl fairly loud. I put tape over the vent and the sound went away. The car seems to run better (vacuum leak?) Is this normal? If not, what should I tell the dealer to fix? I have had the car in twice and they didn't get as far as I did in finding the source. PCA's reply was: "The system you are talking about is ORVR. This system recover the vapors let out of you gas tank when you fill up your car. It only works when you fill up your car and insert the nozzle into the filler neck. When you take off your cap, push in the flap and you should hear a click for the system to start. You might have a problem with the system, if you have vacuum in that hose when the car is running, you have an issue and should go to a dealer. Peter Smith - PCA WebSite - 9/17/2002 First, my thanks to PCA. So, it appears that my mystery noise is a vaccuum leak in the ORVR, which could explain why my mileage,and possible performance, has dropped. Given this info, does anyone have experience w/ the ORVR or can you direct me to a schematic of the system? BTW, I had a similar experience w/ my mechanic as did the PCA poster: my mechanic thought the sound was the cooling fan ...... Jef

I'm not inquiring abou the drain hole in the center lower portion of the filler (see pic), but the other hole, which I beleive is a vent, at the top left.

Here's my fuel filler; the vent is at the top right and drain hole at bottom center. Revved to about 2500 rpm the vent definitley whistles (darn near loudly) due to blowing or sucking air (sorry about mising this detail, I was so excited when I finally ID'd the source of the noise I didn't stop to make that note). When whistling, if you cover the vent it stops. Also, as noted in the earlier post on this if you change engine speed it will stop. I think it's part of the evap purge system. Also, my mpg seems to have fallen off considerably. Re Han's question about how I nailed this down, my wife hung her ear waaaay out the car and we at first figured out it was coming from the right front, then inside the fuel filler. PS I finally located an earlier applicable post, which said the noise is caused by a bad (unidentified) valve in the fuel system. Definitely looking forward to your collective replies. Jef

I've a 2000 base w/ 44k mi. What is the deal on the vent inside our gas filler door, toward the front of the car. Mine occassionaly blows enough air to be audible from the cabin while driving. When its "blowing" I can make it stop by lifting off the throttle. I recently posted a topic about a whistling sound (http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=15582), and yesterday finally figured out that this vent is the source of the sound. jef

Only when moving. Not speed dependent and tone does not change w/ speed.

Oh man, one of you must have an opinion on this -- noise is driving me nuts. New info: it seems lifting off the accelerater will cause the sound to stop. Applying brakes or the clutch makes no difference.

I've a 2000 Boxster w/ 45k mi, that's making an intermittent low-pitched monotone hum or buzzing sound that I need to ID. At first it was very faint, sounding like a bad wheel bearing humming. It would come and go and did not change tone, etc w/ changes in engine/vehicle speed. Now its louder although still faint -- and still sounds like bad wheel bearings I've heard. Porsche mechanic said that's not it, but I'm not convinced he heard it. Anyhow, it sounds like it could be coming from the front or right side of the car, which has me thinking i'ts a radiator fan. But, it could be coming from the right air vent i.e., engine compartment. I can't get it to happen when the car is parked, of course. (And I'm deaf in my left ear so the **** sound could be coming from anyplace ....). No helpful CEL codes. Many Thanks

My 2000 leaked from the hose where it was connected to the bottom of the tank. All was accessible by partial removal of left-side fender liner. Jef

. The board gave me the confidence needed to drive it home, which I did and all was fine. Actually ran sweet. One add'l sympton, after driving 500 mi it started smoking a bit at v/ low rpm and the idle became erratic. Finally, I eventully pulled codes P1126, P1128 and P1130. GOT IT RESOLVED -- I'm pretty sure it was solely the air oil separater -- although I also changed an obviously cracked oil filler tube (center segment). Some diagnostic notes follow. 1) Someone suggested the following as an AOS check (sorry I could not relocate post to credit author): Disconnect the "short convoluted" tube running from the AOS to the throttle body (see image in Roger's post, below). Seal the opening at the TB. Start engine and let run a bit, then let it sit a few hours and restart. If there's no smoke at second start up then the AOS is the problem. ... When I ran this test there was clearly less smoke at the post-sitting start up, but it definitely still smoked a bit. Still, I'd say that if there's a big change in smoke volume then the test proves it's the AOS. 2) My billowing smoke was white, like burnt fuel, and had a new-to-me odor to it. Not really sweet, definitley not the odor of petroleum based oils. 3) When I removed the coupling at the TB there was lots of oil in the tube -- not merely vapor residue -- plus a relatively new pool of oil had formed on the block just below the coupling. I'm confused by the pool of oil because it seems that any opening allowing oil to drip would have been a whopper of a vacuum leak. Finally, based on the appearance of the oils caked up around the leaking oil filler tube, that thing had been leaking for a long time. I paid a shop to do this repair (Autobahn Motorworks, Bethesda MD), primarliy because I don't currently have the ability to read codes. They charged $790 parts and labor to replace AOS and filler tube. Thanks for everyones' help.

Drove it home. Ran perfectly, and got good mileage. Nerve wracking! Car still billows smoke at start up. Definitely more the longer it has sat, plus it's suddenly getting worse in that it started blowing (not billowing) smoke while driving. This occurred very soon after I noticed that it was idling rough. CEL is (still) on and got codes P1128, P1130 and P1126. (Used Advanced Auto Part's device -- I definitly need to get one of my own.) Net research suggests problem is MAF, because P1128 and P1130 indicate both banks of cylinders are running lean. Correct? It seems thatI should 1) check for intake leaks, particulalary at air oil separatoer bellows and 2) clean or replace MAF. Is tgis correct? Thanks

I found Rodger's AOS DIY post. This looks DIY-able, but not before I get home. BTW, my cel is on now, not flashing, but unfortunately I also can't read codes. And the smoke screen is gone in about 15-20 seconds. No smoke therafter until I shut it off.

Rodger -- That's a such beter answer than valve stem seals, which is what I'm fearing. I hope you're right, thanks a lot for the photo. I need to be back home in DC by mid-afternoon --meaning leaving 5-6 AM tomorrow. Can I drive home w/ a bad separater (500 mi), or ... valve seal?

Here's more info. Car has new oil, and there's no sign of collant in the clean oil on the dip stick. Coolant level is actually too high -- about an inch below the top of the filler. Car runs beautifully.

I've a 2000 Boxster w/ 45 k miles that is suddenly billowing white smoke at start up. Previously, I would see this once or twice a year. Friday I drove it 500 miles to visit my bro (so I'm currently 500 miles from home) and now it billows at every start up. It does finally stop emitting visible smoke after a few minutes. First, what's up. Second, or first, can I drive home (500 miles of highway) tomorrow then get it repaired? Thanks

I've got a 2000 Box'r w/ a CDR 22 receiver/cd player. The illumination in the face for channels, etc., suddenly comes and goes. Mostly it's on, and when it's off turning the dimmer or light switch doe not seem to coax it to turn on. Suddenly just comes back. I think it also even less occassionally illuminates but at a very very low lioght level. Any ideas? TIA, Jef

I'm about to change brakes (pads, rotors, fluid flush) on my 2000 2.7L w/ ~40K mi, and have been searching archives for a one-stop source for commonly needed torque specs. Couldn't find it. Is there one? I've gathered the following specs re brakes: big caliper bolts @ 63 ft-lb; lug bolts @ 96 ft-lb, rotor hold-down screw @ 7 ft-lb. What about brake line connections and brackets? Also, this probably is a good time to do spark plugs, right? best

I've as 2000 Box, never wrecked. Rained like crazy here last weekend and for the first time ever I've got a small leak that's coming through just above the footpedals. Ideas? TIA, Jef

Thanks. Is this problem caused by opening the door before the window does its annoying little drop? (BTW, I've always been very careful to let the window drop before opeining the door, but the previous owner may not have been so careful/patient.)

The driver window on my 2000 rattles, clunks almost, when the top is up and I hit a hard bump in the road. It doesn't happen when rolled-down the tiniest bit. I've looked for missing gaskets, seals etc. but not found anything. Any ideas? TI. Jef

You asked, so I'm going to say it: don't get either. Guards Red is just too red for me, especially for guys -- unless it's got 600+ HP. Then, maybe. Had black hot rods and I won't again. Beautiful when clean, which last about 2 seconds, and hot as hell in sun. Where do you live? Light colors are cooler and don't have to be washed twice a week. I think this is the major factor to consider when picking colors for a convertible. Mine? I'ts whatever P calls its ..... deep red version of burgundy, with light saddle seats - by far the best interior color for any convertible, imho. It's not an S, however, and that was my serious mistake. Indeed, went non S when I boughft it just because I fell in love with the colors. Jefla

Just to note that I finally found the codes list (in "Online Docs Menu"), and there's no P0760 listed in any of the sections.

My 2000 Boxster 2.7L, 5 sp, 40 k mi., just failed DC inspection because the OBD reported code P0760 "Shift solenoid C." The CEL is not illuminated. First, isn't there a forum or section from which contributing memebrs can get access to code definitions? I looked but could not find. Anyhow, what's this code and what's shift solenoid "C" do? Thanks

NSA?