carrera3.2

I have used the search function on this forum for this topic, but still do not feel comfortable that I have a good answer to my question. The car is a MY 2003 Carrera with ca. 40K miles and LNE ceramic IMS bearing replacement. The engine is running fine with no error codes. To the best of my knowledge, the engine has never been opened and does not show either metal or plastic debris when the oil/filter is changed. When I check out various parameters using the Durametric tool, I get the following values for the camshaft position deviations: bank 1 = 1.69 deg Crk bank 2 = 5.08 deg Crk These values do not vary with engine RPM. I believe that the factory specs allow for up to 6 degrees of deviation, but the fact that these two banks seem so different has me wondering if there may be problem waiting to pop up. Should I be concerned about this? Any informed comments would be appreciated. Thanks.

Not to start a raging debate on the subject of removing excess oil from a 996 engine, but I have removed small amounts (0.25-0.5 qts) of oil via the dipstick tube from my '03 C2 several times with no problems using an appropriately small diameter piece of "Tygon" tubing and a hand-operated "mini" vacuum pump of the type some use to flush brake systems. Before putting the tubing down the oil dipstick tube, I measured the Tygon tubing against the Porsche oil dipstick and made a mark on it so that I did not get into the internals any deeper than the distance traveled normally by the dipstick. This was to avoid any snagging on the baffles, etc., as pointed out by JFP in PA above. That would be a bad thing to do, for sure. Cautiously following this procedure, I have not had any problems of oil removal.

You may wish to check this link for a fix to this problem used on the C2: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-996-997-forum/555332-996-adjustable-rear-control-arms.html BTW, this C2 with H&R "Sport" springs, factory M030 suspension, and adjustable upper rear control arms sits about 30mm lower than a stock 996 when set to factory alignment specifications and performs very well on the track without the expensive Bilstein PSS modification.

I just had the LN Engineering IMS replacement bearing installed when I had the clutch replaced on my '03 C2. I had it done by an LNE approved shop that has performed other such replacements so it is warranted. I sleep much better as a result. Here is a link (list is a year old, so check if interested) to the shops that LN Engineering says can do their IMS bearing replacement so you have a two-year warranty on it: http://www.lnengineering.com/June%202010%20Dealer%20Listing.pdf

66bus, I suggest that you visit this Porsche website to get information on Porsche part numbers; http://www.porsche.c...partscatalogue/ The Original Porsche Parts Catalogue (PET) on CD-DVD that they offer for 9.00 USD is well worth the price.

As kgoertz has pointed out above, a set of H&R sport springs will bring your car down 30mm, but then you will need to install adjustable upper rear control arms in order to get the resulting too-negative camber under control and avoid destroying the inner surface of the rear tires. See this thread: http://www.renntech....__1#entry182110 I have experienced no ill effects with my 03 C2 following this procedure.

Hey RFM. Thanks for the response. Actually, the clutch pedal feels great (like new) since I installed the new clutch/flywheel. I don't feel the ticking with my hand or foot. The noise just seems to disappear when the pedal is pushed. I thought it may be something in the clutch master cylinder or assist spring. Those are two items that were not replaced. I did however, replace the slave cylinder. Could you give us some more vehicle info on this problem; MY and mileage for example? I am interested in tracking clutch life on these 996s. Thanks. Hi Carrera3.2. It's a 2003 C4S with 83,000 miles. I'm the 2nd owner of the vehicle and purchased it in 2007 with 42,000 miles. In looking at past records (from the previous owner), I don't see that it ever had a clutch replacement. Based on that, I'm assuming this is the only clutch replacement the car has received. hasteyrb, Thanks for the reply. That is good news! Since my 2003 C2 has only 44K miles on it, I am hoping I can get as much clutch life as you have. Out of curiosity, did you do anything with the IMS when you replaced the clutch? Thanks.

Hey RFM. Thanks for the response. Actually, the clutch pedal feels great (like new) since I installed the new clutch/flywheel. I don't feel the ticking with my hand or foot. The noise just seems to disappear when the pedal is pushed. I thought it may be something in the clutch master cylinder or assist spring. Those are two items that were not replaced. I did however, replace the slave cylinder. Could you give us some more vehicle info on this problem; MY and mileage for example? I am interested in tracking clutch life on these 996s. Thanks.

DC, Your GT3 looks terrific with these! My 2003 C2 does have the headlight washers and it would be necessary to remove the popout heads in order to install these cover trims. I wonder how difficult it is to remove these for installation. It is difficult to tell from the PET and the shop manual that I have on hand does not tell how to do this. Yes, using these headlight cover trims would be an attempt to make the 996 look more like the 997 and they are probably overpriced at $170 + $50 shipping.. However, as much as I like my 996, I do feel tht the "fried egg" headlights are the least attractive feature of the 996. This is a personal distinction. Each to his/her own opinion on such matters. Not sure about these particular ones, but have them on 2 996's and they look great. Use 2 sided 3M moulding tape instead of adhesive. I have verified that they hold beyond 150 MPH :) Have photos on my GT3 on this site in Ocean Blue Metallic. Looks more like my 997 Turbo with these covers on...Click Here for some photos Good luck. DC

Just curious, is there any knowledge or experience by anyone on this list concerning these painted 996 headlight cover trims offered on e-Bay at: http://cgi.ebay.com/...Q5fAccessories? They do change the forward appearance of the 996. Thanks for any comments you may have.

The Durametric unit will reset this light. I know because I disconnected, removed, and then reinstalled my driver's side door air bag to repair the door mechanism and the light came on as you described. The Durametric easily cleared the code.

I can tell you that I recently did the exact same thing with my 2003 C2 with PSM. I put on a set of adjustable upper rear control arms and took the car in to an excellent indie shop for alignment. I then used my Durametric with the most recent beta update of the Durametric software to reset the sensor angle. No problems, Good luck.

I use the old school route - I put an old hockey puck on the jack. It never fails to work.

It is a "M8" bit. These seem as rare as hen's teeth where I live, but I did find one. I did damage the screws by thinking it was a Torx, but managed to remove them with a pair of vice grips. No damage done to anything and I will use fresh M8 x 14 screws on the reinstallation, torquing with the M8 driver.

There seems to be a lot of confusion among the tool providers where I am about this bolt size and the tool to remove it. Is this the same as a "M8" bit?

OK. I got the inner driver's side door panel off and found my problem. The little pin that connects the door handle with the lock mechanism fell out when the little circlip on the end departed for some reason. Now I need to take out the locking module. The two big bolts that connect the locking module to the door appear to be Torx T40 in size, but when I attempt to use this size, it does not properly engage the bolts. The T40 seems to be a little too small, but my T45 is way too large to fit. I do not want to ruin these bolt heads. Can anyone tell me what the proper tool size is to remove these bolts? Thanks.

Trevor: Taking the door panel off seems intimidating at first, but once you have done it you will wonder what you were thinking. Here is a good link for removing the door panel (it's for a Boxster, but the 996 door is either exactly the same or very close to it): http://www.ecoutez.n...-panel-removal/ If you run into any stumbling blocks or need more specific instructions for a particular step, post that here again. Regards, Maurice. I have just encountered the exact same problem that started this thread and it seems that I will need to remove the driver's side inner door panel in order to resolve it. However, this link seems to be no longer active. Can someone please direct me to an active link that shows how to remove the inner door panel without damaging things on my 2003 C2 and how to repair the cable that has appearently come loose? Many thanks. Search is your friend... http://www.renntech....l-instructions/ http://www.renntech....-microswitches/ Loren, Thanks so much! Jim OK, I need help. My driver's door latch does not work from the outside. When the handle is pulled, the window goes down as it should, but nothing else happens. The key fob locks and unlocks both doors as it should, but the driver's door cannot be opened from outside, even if the key is inserted and turned. It acts as if there is no mechanical connection between the handle and the latch. The driver's door can be opened from the inside using the inside door handle. I am assuming that there is a mechnical problem with the bowden cable. I would guess that it has disconnected or broken. In Loren's write-up on door panel removal (reproduced in part below), I have gotten through step 2. How can I finish step 3? At this point I cannot see the bowden cable at all. Nothing but the cover over the door handle has come off the inner panel up to this point. I am stuck. Can anyone give me a clue on how to get this inner door panel off without breaking anything so I can see what is causing my problem? (Maurice, the ecoutez link that you posted seems no longer active. Can I access those instructions some other way?) Thanks. Caution: Damage may occur if the bowden cable is bent at the hook. The hook of the bowden cable is pressed into the end piece of the cover for protection during transport and assembly. Pull the hook out of the end piece only after installation in the inner door release (see below). Remove (1) cover - Use a plastic spatula to release the clipped connection out of the door handle on all sides. Remove fastening screws 2, 3, 4. Remove (2) plastic cover (airbag) - Press the cover out with a narrow screwdriver 5. Remove the fastening screw 6 seated below it. Press light 7 out of the door trim panel using a plastic spatula 10. Disconnect (pull off) electrical plug connection. Disconnect (3) the bowden cable (arrow B ) and electrical plug connection - Disconnect electrical plug connection from the microswitch for the door handle 9 and orientation lighting 10. Press lugs of the plastic clip (arrow A) and pull out towards the rear. Carefully push the bowden cable 8 back into the end piece of the sleeve (arrow B ). Remove (4) door trim panel - Take expanding nut out of the door trim panel. Unclip door trim panel out of the door on all sides and lift up and off. Clips 13 and 14 must be replaced for assembly (according to the manual). Remove (5) airbag - Disconnect electrical plug connection 15. Remove the fastening screws 16 out of the side airbag and remove.

Thanks for reporting back to us. If you want to beat him the next time, do not invest first in upgrades to your car. Invest in driver upgrade by taking high-performance driving lessons. I mean this honestly and not as a put-down to you. Many people who are not well accustomed to track driving think that if they just add something else to their car it will make them go faster. It might, but I really believe that yor C4S already has the capacity to beat this guy's Mini Cooper Works. Find someone who can teach you the ropes on this track and watch your times go down. The fact that you said that you were not braking deep, etc. tells me that you and your car have the capacity to go much faster. Look at it this way, learning to drive faster and safer is a lot of fun, even if you don't beat him!

Trevor: Taking the door panel off seems intimidating at first, but once you have done it you will wonder what you were thinking. Here is a good link for removing the door panel (it's for a Boxster, but the 996 door is either exactly the same or very close to it): http://www.ecoutez.n...-panel-removal/ If you run into any stumbling blocks or need more specific instructions for a particular step, post that here again. Regards, Maurice. I have just encountered the exact same problem that started this thread and it seems that I will need to remove the driver's side inner door panel in order to resolve it. However, this link seems to be no longer active. Can someone please direct me to an active link that shows how to remove the inner door panel without damaging things on my 2003 C2 and how to repair the cable that has appearently come loose? Many thanks. Search is your friend... http://www.renntech....l-instructions/ http://www.renntech....-microswitches/ Loren, Thanks so much! Jim

Trevor: Taking the door panel off seems intimidating at first, but once you have done it you will wonder what you were thinking. Here is a good link for removing the door panel (it's for a Boxster, but the 996 door is either exactly the same or very close to it): http://www.ecoutez.n...-panel-removal/ If you run into any stumbling blocks or need more specific instructions for a particular step, post that here again. Regards, Maurice. I have just encountered the exact same problem that started this thread and it seems that I will need to remove the driver's side inner door panel in order to resolve it. However, this link seems to be no longer active. Can someone please direct me to an active link that shows how to remove the inner door panel without damaging things on my 2003 C2 and how to repair the cable that has appearently come loose? Many thanks.

The idea of a metal impeller in the water pump at first seems like a good idea, because sometimes the plastic ones can come "unglued" from the shft and freewheel, not moving coolant. However, there is a downside to using a metal impeller. When the bearings on a waterpump fail, the impeller often can wobble, cut into the the metal parts of the pump, and distribute metal particles thoughout the cooling system.. Many think it better to spread out soft plastic particles than hard metal particles in this way. Just my $0.02 worth.

How much lower will your car be after you install the new springs? My car has a set of H&R "sport" springs on it and they lowered it by 30 mm (ca. 1.25 in). This is great, except that the rear wheel alignment could no longer be made to achieve factory specs this way. I needed to install a set of adjustable upper rear control arms in order to get my rear wheel camber specs from being too negative and causing (very) excessive inner tread wear on the rear tires. The specs for the springs say 'up to' 1,2 inches lower. I guess I'll find out after they put it on the machine and check the settings. I'm planning on letting it sit in my garage for a week and then getting the alignment done after that so if it looks like an issue I'll park it for the winter and then put new front and rear control arms in it in the spring. I was planning on upgrading to the GT3 parts anyway in the future but was holding off for next years budget! Doing the rotors and pads this week so I don't need to freak out the spouse too many weeks in a row with other added items. :) I've also taken jetbox's comments concerning the top mounts into my plan as a 'just in case' part of the budget planing. I had a quote from an indy to do the install and alignment for $700 and I am gettinga second quote this week to see if that is in the ball park. The first guy who owns the shop is very good, he races a 996 in region racing here in Canada and races a Cayman in SCCA World Challenge. The GT3 suspension will solve the tire wear problem but is, of course, an expensive solution. Good luck!

How much lower will your car be after you install the new springs? My car has a set of H&R "sport" springs on it and they lowered it by 30 mm (ca. 1.25 in). This is great, except that the rear wheel alignment could no longer be made to achieve factory specs this way. I needed to install a set of adjustable upper rear control arms in order to get my rear wheel camber specs from being too negative and causing (very) excessive inner tread wear on the rear tires.

As tanny has said, if you want the engine pan to be perfectly level, then by all means, do run the front wheels up as well. I don't worry about that. Regarding looking for debris, I think the most important thing to look for would be debris caused by a failng IMS bearing, not the RMS. When you get out the old oil filter, carefully cut it open along the long axis and examine the interior for metal debris. Better yet, get an oil analysis as I do. I send a sample of my oil at regular intervals for a complete chemical analysis to see if anything that should not be in the oil is present. I have been using Blackstone Labs (Ft. Wayne, IN ) to do this for years and have been very satisfied with the results. They will tell you what the significance of each level of elements is that they analyze for. From this one can infer problems from oil-water mixing to failing bearings. If you do this regularly, you can spot trend lines and anticipate developing problems before a catstrophic engine failure. They supply free sample kits upon request. The price of a standard analysis is now up to $25, but I feel it is worth every cent. (Note: I have no affiliation with Blackstone Labs other than as a satisfied customer.) Good luck.

I bought a set of 4 plastic knockoff center caps, complete with colored crests that look like OEM from 5 ft away for less than $45 on e-bay. They came in just a few days from some place in Hong Kong. No complaints and I don't have to worry about someone stealing my expensive center caps. The same place where I got my center caps also sold just the crests for almost nothing. When I told a Porsche friend where I was buying the center caps and what I was paying for them, she said "be sure that Porsche is spelled correctly before you install them." Sure enough, it was.