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Everything posted by carrera3.2

  1. That is understandable. But I just find it hard to comprehend why the battery management menu for the iCarsoft unit had entries for all of the current Porsche models, including the Cayenne, but not for the Macan. Perhaps the Macan is unique in this regard?
  2. JFP, Thanks for the reply. I am aware that Porsche dealers use the PIWIS system to perform this function. What I would like to know is if there is any generally available unit besides the PIWIS that will perform this operation. The iCarsoft POR V2.0 unit is advertised to do this for the Macan. So I bought one and when I tried to see if it could do what was advertised, I found that it would register a new battery for every Porsche model except the Macan. I returned it and got my money back after their technical rep told me they "are still working on it". Still looking for a reasonable solution to what should be a rather simple problem. BTW, it is rather easy to perform this kind of AGM battery registration on a BMW, and at a very reasonable cost. I don't know why someone can't bring out a product for Porsche's biggest selling product, especially in light of the fact that the oldest Macans are now more than 4 years old and will soon be needing new batteries.
  3. Still no comments on this subject? Has no Macan owner yet replaced the original Varta AGM battery at other than a Porsche dealership?
  4. I tried doing a search on this topic, but was unable to find a definite answer. I am wondering if anyone on this forum has actually replaced their Macan's original battery other than at a Porsche dealership. The OE Porsche battery is a Varta AGM 12V 92Ah 520A DIN. I have seen what I think are exorbitant charges for replacement at Porsche dealerships. Contrary to what some are saying, I believe that AGM batteries, being completely sealed and presenting little or no hazard of acid spills, may be shipped. Sunset Porsche seems to have about the lowest price I have seen at $331. Varta does not seem to sell batteries in North America other than through dealerships. So, following a little research, I think I found another possible source for our batteries. Interstate sells an MTX-49H8 that is AGM and seems to be a direct replacement for our Varta batteries except that it is rated at 95Ah instead of the Varta's 92Ah, a minor difference. The case dimensions are identical. The price at my local Interstate shop is $203, a substantially less amount than the dealership prices. They have them in stock. So, here is a potential problem: viewing YouTube videos of Varta installations, the hangup may be in "registering" a non-Varta battery. The registration appears to be done using the Porsche PIWIS unit and requires inputing a serial number from the new battery to complete the process. Can you plug in info from a non-Varta battery and have it accepted? Anyone have any experience or learned advice about this?
  5. JTT, Can you tell us what aftermarket HU and amp you used? Thanks.
  6. OK, an update. I fixed the problem and I want to thank all those who contributed their helpful comments above. The problem was that the linkage from the motor to the "blending flap" that controls the mixture of heated to chilled air slipped down off of the blender flap and allowed only heated air into the mixing area prior to delivery into the cabin. The exact problem was that the two tiny plastic tabs that hold the final connection "plug" up from the controller motor linkage to the bottom of the flap broke off and allowed the "plug" to fall down and disconnect from the control linkage. This can be addressed from the bottom of the dash by removing only the under dash cover and not the entire dashboard, etc. As av8sky has pointed out, Porsche, in its wisdom, does not provide that fragile part as something that can be purchased by itself. After giving a lot of thought to this, I just bought a simple ca. 5" spring at a hardware store and, using a couple of "snag points" I found, stretched it over the top of the final "plug" to keep it up and connected to the blender flap. Works fine now. Again, many thanks to all of you who sent me your thoughts and information. PS: I cannot help believe that this is not, or will not be, a common problem for all of our Porsches that use this same Valeo HVAC system.
  7. DBJoe996, Thanks for this link. It provides a much better image than what I have seen before. I still can't see the actual flapper though.
  8. fpb111, thanks for the link. This looks like what I need to get started. It would be great if the link in that document to "Porsche 986: Air Box (3.31 MB)" was active. Anyone have any idea of how I could get access to that document that is referenced? Thanks.
  9. Thanks for the suggestion, but that fix is for the 924/944/968 group where you can actually see the parts. Unfortunately, the 986/996 heating/AC unit is essentially a "black box". I need to know what is inside it and how to make a repair, if that is possible.
  10. I have a 2003 996 Carrera in which the AC abruptly started blowing only hot air, regardless of settings. Not a Freon charge or compressor problem. I have been told that it is likely that the linkage from the motor to the "blending flap" that controls the mixture of heated to chilled air has broken or slipped off and is allowing only heated air into the mixing area prior to delivery into the cabin. Here is my problem: Although I have a PET parts diagram, all that it shows for the heating/AC unit is basically a "black box" without any details about what is inside. Therefore, I cannot imagine what the arrangement of the temperature mixing flap and motor linkage to it might be or how I might make a repair, if that is possible. I cannot see up into the unit to know what is going on. So, here is my request: Can someone with a Bentley manual take a look at the section on heating and air conditioning and let me know if there is anything resembling a picture or diagrams of what is inside of the unit so that I could imagine what would be required to repair the damage that my unit has experienced? The factory repair manual is just as useless as the PET diagrams for this purpose and I hesitate to lay down $150 for the Bentley manual if it cannot address this problem. I would be very grateful for any help. TIA.
  11. I have always used regular Permatex anti-seize for this purpose. There is a recommendation on the label to use it with spark plugs and I have never had a problem using it before. I can only imagine that I used too much this time, although I thought I was using the same small amount that I normally do.. If memory serves me correctly, I removed it from the plugs by rubbing off as much as I could with a cotton cloth followed with a cloth soaked with xylene. I did not attempt to remove the anti-seize compound that was likely left in the threads in the engine head, so there was undoubtedly some still in those threads. Nonetheless, this is a caution to me that you need to be careful when using anti-seize compounds on modern spark plugs. Maybe the copper-based anti-seize compounds are more forgiving than what I used. (Or maybe BMWs are more sensitive than Porsches. :eek: )
  12. Just a short comment about the use of anti-seize compound on spark plugs in engines such as these. For some time, Porsche has advised against its use. The reason given is that the use of this material may insulate the plug from the engine block and allow little or no ground for spark discharge to occur. Nevertheless, I have always used it on all on my cars, including my 2003 C2, without problems until recently. I did have a serious problem when changing the plugs on our 2008 BMW 328xi. When I was finished installing the new plugs, the car ran erratically and gave fault codes for misfiring. I removed the plugs, washed them with some solvent to remove the anti-seize compound, and replaced the plugs. After removing the anti-seize compound the car then ran fine. Lesson learned. Porsche's recommendation seems to be a good one. I will never apply anti-seize compound when replacing my plugs again. I must have been lucky up until now. Just be very careful when starting the plugs (by hand) so that you do not cross-thread them or over tighten them.
  13. I agree. The important thing is to keep out any additional moisture. The reason for annual or biannual changes of brake fluid in our cars is primarily because the reservoirs are generally open to the atmosphere and therefore the fluid picks up moisture from humid air. Of course, if you are tracking your car, the heating from the brake calipers will also degrade the chemical nature of the fluid over a fairly short time.
  14. Actually, there is no chemical reason to think there is any finite "shelf life" for completely sealed, unopened containers of brake fluid any more than there is for unopened motor oil as long as there has been no exposure to elevated temperatures. The fluids are basically inert, long-chain polymers of ethylene glycol and related substances that won't react if there is nothng for them to react with in the container. However, if the container is opened to the atmosphere, these fluids are "hygroscopic", meaning they like to gobble up atmospheric water that, as stated above by sburke719, lowers their effective boiling point, something that you don't want to happen. Bottom line: originally sealed brake fluid, no problem with shelf storage; opened containers, don't save, but recycle the remainders at your local recycling center. (Yes, I am a chemist by profession.)
  15. Well, parts replaced, but still have a (somewhat muted) thump/clunk. Found evidence of swaybar contacting lower control arms. Still looking into this.
  16. Thanks, Loren. I have ordered the parts and will see if this helps.
  17. I need some helpful advice. I have tried searching for information on this topic on this forum and others, but have not found anything that directly relates to my problem. I am experiencing a very annoying sharp "thumping" or "clunking" sound from the rear suspension of my 6-speed 2003 C2. It is present only while the car is in motion and is most noticeable at slow speeds while going over slight undulations on the road surface. I believe it is also there at higher speeds, but there are enough other sounds that it is not so annoying. The sound is not ground speed or engine speed dependent. I cannot tell if it comes from just one side or the other. I believe I have eliminated any problems with the exhaust system, body fixtures, wiring, tubing, or worn or loose joints, shocks, springs, or bushings. I cannot reproduce this noise just by grabbing onto suspension parts and shaking things while the car is on a lift or on the ground. I have narrowed this down to what I believe the culprits are: the rear sway bar links (part number 996-333-069-04). These links seem rather flimsy and are probably wear items. My car has ca. 54K miles on it. Can these links go bad and cause noise? Before I go tearing things apart, has anyone had a similar experience or have specific thoughts on this problem? TIA
  18. I have three cars, all with Continental tires; a Subaru Outback, a three series x-drive BMW, and a 2003 Porsche Carrera 2 also with the M030 option. I am pleased with the tires on all cars. The BMW has ExtremeContact DWS tires that are good for all seasons and the Porsche has a set of ExtremeContact DW tires, summer rated. No complaints, whatsoever. Continentals are great tires for the price.
  19. Good question. No louder, and maybe less loud, than my Continental ExtremeContact DW street tires. In fact, now that I have used the Sumitomos, I would think twice about buying the significantly more expensive Continentals for general use.
  20. I was looking for the same type of tire for the casual use of my 2003 C2 on track lapping days. I have experienced a lot of track time, but mostly with a dedicated (non 996) track car that used R compound tires not suited for rainy days, etc. After a lot of research and listening to others on this and other forums, I decided to go with a set of Sumitomo HTR Z III. I am amazed at how good they are on both the street and track. Don't get me wrong, these are street tires, not dedicated track tires, but they are a very satisfactory compromise if you want to drive to the track and back without hauling a set of dedicated track tires along. They are relatively inexpensive, but have held up so far to a total of about 12 hours of pretty agressive track time wih little wear showing. Just my $0.02 worth.
  21. You might want to check out the discussion found on the link below to avoid excessive inner rear tire wear caused by the H&R springs that lower the car so far that the rear camber cannot be set to factory specs. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-996-997-forum/555332-996-adjustable-rear-control-arms.html My 2003 C2 has the M030 and H&R sport springs. I did this three years ago and have had no problems since I put in the rear upper adjustable control arms. Works great as long as you address the rear upper control arm issue. Without this adjustment, you will not be able to adjust the rear camber properly. This puts the normal C2 ride height down to about the same level as for a GT3. It looks very nice and it works great on the track.
  22. I have a similar problem with rear noise. I cannot tell in the image that you provided if it is just the bottom nuts or that there are also some nuts at the top that must be checked. Could you comment? Also, is the torque value 81lb-ft or 34 lb-ft? Many thanks.
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