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carrera3.2

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About carrera3.2

  • Rank
    Contributing Member

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  • Gender
    Male

Profile Fields

  • From
    Colorado
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    2015 Porsche Macan S
    2011 BMW 328xi
  • Former cars
    1982 Porsche 924 Turbo<br />
    1986 Porsche 928S<br />
    1988 Porsche 924S (track car)<br />
    1989 Porsche 928GT<br />
    1988 Porsche 3.2 911 Carrera<br />
    2003 Porsche 911 Carrera 2

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  1. I tried doing a search on this topic, but was unable to find a definite answer. I am wondering if anyone on this forum has actually replaced their Macan's original battery other than at a Porsche dealership. The OE Porsche battery is a Varta AGM 12V 92Ah 520A DIN. I have seen what I think are exorbitant charges for replacement at Porsche dealerships. Contrary to what some are saying, I believe that AGM batteries, being completely sealed and presenting little or no hazard of acid spills, may be shipped. Sunset Porsche seems to have about the lowest price I have seen at $331. Varta does not seem to sell batteries in North America other than through dealerships. So, following a little research, I think I found another possible source for our batteries. Interstate sells an MTX-49H8 that is AGM and seems to be a direct replacement for our Varta batteries except that it is rated at 95Ah instead of the Varta's 92Ah, a minor difference. The case dimensions are identical. The price at my local Interstate shop is $203, a substantially less amount than the dealership prices. They have them in stock. So, here is a potential problem: viewing YouTube videos of Varta installations, the hangup may be in "registering" a non-Varta battery. The registration appears to be done using the Porsche PIWIS unit and requires inputing a serial number from the new battery to complete the process. Can you plug in info from a non-Varta battery and have it accepted? Anyone have any experience or learned advice about this?
  2. JTT, Can you tell us what aftermarket HU and amp you used? Thanks.
  3. OK, an update. I fixed the problem and I want to thank all those who contributed their helpful comments above. The problem was that the linkage from the motor to the "blending flap" that controls the mixture of heated to chilled air slipped down off of the blender flap and allowed only heated air into the mixing area prior to delivery into the cabin. The exact problem was that the two tiny plastic tabs that hold the final connection "plug" up from the controller motor linkage to the bottom of the flap broke off and allowed the "plug" to fall down and disconnect from the control linkage. This can be addressed from the bottom of the dash by removing only the under dash cover and not the entire dashboard, etc. As av8sky has pointed out, Porsche, in its wisdom, does not provide that fragile part as something that can be purchased by itself. After giving a lot of thought to this, I just bought a simple ca. 5" spring at a hardware store and, using a couple of "snag points" I found, stretched it over the top of the final "plug" to keep it up and connected to the blender flap. Works fine now. Again, many thanks to all of you who sent me your thoughts and information. PS: I cannot help believe that this is not, or will not be, a common problem for all of our Porsches that use this same Valeo HVAC system.
  4. DBJoe996, Thanks for this link. It provides a much better image than what I have seen before. I still can't see the actual flapper though.
  5. fpb111, thanks for the link. This looks like what I need to get started. It would be great if the link in that document to "Porsche 986: Air Box (3.31 MB)" was active. Anyone have any idea of how I could get access to that document that is referenced? Thanks.
  6. Thanks for the suggestion, but that fix is for the 924/944/968 group where you can actually see the parts. Unfortunately, the 986/996 heating/AC unit is essentially a "black box". I need to know what is inside it and how to make a repair, if that is possible.
  7. I have a 2003 996 Carrera in which the AC abruptly started blowing only hot air, regardless of settings. Not a Freon charge or compressor problem. I have been told that it is likely that the linkage from the motor to the "blending flap" that controls the mixture of heated to chilled air has broken or slipped off and is allowing only heated air into the mixing area prior to delivery into the cabin. Here is my problem: Although I have a PET parts diagram, all that it shows for the heating/AC unit is basically a "black box" without any details about what is inside. Therefore, I cannot imagine what the arrangement of the temperature mixing flap and motor linkage to it might be or how I might make a repair, if that is possible. I cannot see up into the unit to know what is going on. So, here is my request: Can someone with a Bentley manual take a look at the section on heating and air conditioning and let me know if there is anything resembling a picture or diagrams of what is inside of the unit so that I could imagine what would be required to repair the damage that my unit has experienced? The factory repair manual is just as useless as the PET diagrams for this purpose and I hesitate to lay down $150 for the Bentley manual if it cannot address this problem. I would be very grateful for any help. TIA.
  8. I have always used regular Permatex anti-seize for this purpose. There is a recommendation on the label to use it with spark plugs and I have never had a problem using it before. I can only imagine that I used too much this time, although I thought I was using the same small amount that I normally do.. If memory serves me correctly, I removed it from the plugs by rubbing off as much as I could with a cotton cloth followed with a cloth soaked with xylene. I did not attempt to remove the anti-seize compound that was likely left in the threads in the engine head, so there was undoubtedly some still in those threads. Nonetheless, this is a caution to me that you need to be careful when using anti-seize compounds on modern spark plugs. Maybe the copper-based anti-seize compounds are more forgiving than what I used. (Or maybe BMWs are more sensitive than Porsches. :eek: )
  9. Just a short comment about the use of anti-seize compound on spark plugs in engines such as these. For some time, Porsche has advised against its use. The reason given is that the use of this material may insulate the plug from the engine block and allow little or no ground for spark discharge to occur. Nevertheless, I have always used it on all on my cars, including my 2003 C2, without problems until recently. I did have a serious problem when changing the plugs on our 2008 BMW 328xi. When I was finished installing the new plugs, the car ran erratically and gave fault codes for misfiring. I removed the plugs, washed them with some solvent to remove the anti-seize compound, and replaced the plugs. After removing the anti-seize compound the car then ran fine. Lesson learned. Porsche's recommendation seems to be a good one. I will never apply anti-seize compound when replacing my plugs again. I must have been lucky up until now. Just be very careful when starting the plugs (by hand) so that you do not cross-thread them or over tighten them.
  10. I agree. The important thing is to keep out any additional moisture. The reason for annual or biannual changes of brake fluid in our cars is primarily because the reservoirs are generally open to the atmosphere and therefore the fluid picks up moisture from humid air. Of course, if you are tracking your car, the heating from the brake calipers will also degrade the chemical nature of the fluid over a fairly short time.
  11. Actually, there is no chemical reason to think there is any finite "shelf life" for completely sealed, unopened containers of brake fluid any more than there is for unopened motor oil as long as there has been no exposure to elevated temperatures. The fluids are basically inert, long-chain polymers of ethylene glycol and related substances that won't react if there is nothng for them to react with in the container. However, if the container is opened to the atmosphere, these fluids are "hygroscopic", meaning they like to gobble up atmospheric water that, as stated above by sburke719, lowers their effective boiling point, something that you don't want to happen. Bottom line: originally sealed brake fluid, no problem with shelf storage; opened containers, don't save, but recycle the remainders at your local recycling center. (Yes, I am a chemist by profession.)
  12. Well, parts replaced, but still have a (somewhat muted) thump/clunk. Found evidence of swaybar contacting lower control arms. Still looking into this.
  13. Thanks, Loren. I have ordered the parts and will see if this helps.
  14. I need some helpful advice. I have tried searching for information on this topic on this forum and others, but have not found anything that directly relates to my problem. I am experiencing a very annoying sharp "thumping" or "clunking" sound from the rear suspension of my 6-speed 2003 C2. It is present only while the car is in motion and is most noticeable at slow speeds while going over slight undulations on the road surface. I believe it is also there at higher speeds, but there are enough other sounds that it is not so annoying. The sound is not ground speed or engine speed dependent. I cannot tell if it comes from just one side or the other. I believe I have eliminated any problems with the exhaust system, body fixtures, wiring, tubing, or worn or loose joints, shocks, springs, or bushings. I cannot reproduce this noise just by grabbing onto suspension parts and shaking things while the car is on a lift or on the ground. I have narrowed this down to what I believe the culprits are: the rear sway bar links (part number 996-333-069-04). These links seem rather flimsy and are probably wear items. My car has ca. 54K miles on it. Can these links go bad and cause noise? Before I go tearing things apart, has anyone had a similar experience or have specific thoughts on this problem? TIA
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