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Papagut

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Everything posted by Papagut

  1. That's the correct part, but you are in Oregon - so I would suggest reaching out to Sunset Imports and saving yourself the $250.
  2. I had a similar problem which was caused by water under the passenger side carpet causing connectors within the large bundle of wires that runs there to corrode. There are connections within the wrapped wiring itself - something that I did not expect. Once I split it open, there were numerous locations in there that had corroded to the point of, or close to, failure. My proportioning / ABS failure was solved on the passenger side, but I redid the wiring on the drivers side too and found that to be in fairly bad shape also. Good luck
  3. Hi there, I am getting the the following error when starting the car, but hit enter and everything is fully functional, with the exception of the navi. The map shows north as pointing south, and will not calculate a trip to or from a location. I suspect that it is the GPS antenna failing, or that the cable running from it is not seated properly into the back of the unit. I am suspecting this also because info shows no satellites. Any information you might have on this would be appreciated.
  4. This is exactly what happened to me - splitting without puncturing the bag. I even did the same: bending off the sharp parts to try and hold it on till the parts arrived. Definitely something to get done immediately. Mine was bulging pretty menacingly by the time I took it off. It's not a difficult job if you are into it, and bought the parts from Sunset - air spring was $394.
  5. That definitely could be transmission fluid if it is red - I had this problem and it was the result of a failing torque converter seal - what I have been told is a very common problem in older Cayennes. If you remove the protective cover exposing the transmission (anchored on one end right where your red circle is in your image), you will see the square transmission pan. Moving further toward the front of the car along the centreline, there is a small drainage hole. That is where transmission fluid from my failing seal was leaking from. Just a suggestion though - washing it clean is a good way to start.
  6. Thanks for the info, I was expecting it to be much easier than that. My thinking is with 200K kms on it, it should be part of the preventative maintenance I am doing to keep things trouble free. What do you think - would you undertake the work with no obvious symptoms?
  7. I'm currently doing a lot of basic service on my Turbo, and I have a really straightforward question: is there a fuel filter on this vehicle, and if there is, what is the recommendation for replacing it? Thanks
  8. Same here, that simple o-ring repair solved all my problems. I paid $165 for the VW kit, and was really happy paying that over the alternative of a new compressor. $9 is crazy!
  9. For me, the wet foam caused corrosion of some of the connections inside the wrapped wiring, eventually causing a real cascade of electrical problems that were a challenge to correct. The carpeting itself appeared completely dry - it was troubleshooting the electrical failures that eventually led to me pulling back the carpeting and finding the water.
  10. Thanks - I will look into it a little more closely and post back the results. I was imagining the seal between a piston and chamber beginning to fail, and the wearing out of the seal allowing the air to leak into the vacuum system. I will post back with the results.
  11. To me they feel fine, but the squeek was the first symptom, then a hiss as the pedal came back up to the ready position that I feel is becoming more pronounced. I have seen a brake booster warning once now too on the dash - came up once, not seen again.
  12. In the end, I was able to get the ECU reset at a fraction of the cost of purchasing one new. Anyone need contact information to the shop that did it for me - let me know.
  13. Hi there, I started getting a little squeek at the top end of the movement as the brake pedal was released, so I have been paying closer attention and now hear a slight hiss. My understanding is that this is the vacuum from the brake booster escaping, and that indicates that is time to replace the part. Otherwise, the brakes feel fine, and no fluid is leaking from the system. So, I have a few questions before I undertake this: What is the correct term for the part that is failing, I feel like a dope not being able to refer to it properly. Is this a serviceable part? Can I replace a seal to correct the leak? What causes this failure? The brake fluid has not been changed in a while, will fresh fluid re-lubricate the system and correct the leak? Finally, a part number would be helpful or any other recommendations on the repair before I get going on it. Thanks guys.
  14. Panameras - I did the seal rebuild on my compressor with the VW kit, not too difficult at all and completely solved my compressor problems. I got the kit at the local Porsche dealer, and can probably dig up the part number if you still need it. The seal kit if I remember correctly was still around $160 CAD, but still a far cry from the prices being quoted for a new compressor.
  15. I know just the place to get that kind of part - I'll post the results if I undertake the repair.
  16. Of course it isn't... thanks for the tip. I guess I'll start thinking about getting into the cluster, or just enjoy the silence.
  17. Hi there, I have a 2004 Cayenne Turbo, and the module that produces the ticking sound when the turn signal is engaged has failed - the turn signals still function, just no sound. I believe the same module produces other alert sounds too. It was sounding a little strange for a week or so - now just silent. A part number would be great - and the location of the module would also be very helpful. Thanks
  18. Thanks for the info - it is confirmed to be a 2.0 system, so it is CD based, but I am still looking for anyone willing to sell or trade for the latest map CD to cover my area: Alberta, Canada. Hopefully someone will come forward to help me out, the dealer charge for the whole set is a little steep in my opinion. Mark
  19. Replacing Cayenne rear hatch struts Hi there, just completed a fairly simple but satisfying repair on my Cayenne. Although there are some instructions posted on this repair, I thought I would take some snapshots as I went just to provide a visual reference for anyone doing this job for the first time. First thing, open the hatch and pop off and disconnect the light: At the same time, remove the screw inside the anchor for the luggage net on each side: Pop off the center roof panel. I got this started by loosening the first Author Papagut Category Cayenne (9PA, 9PA1) - Common Fixes and Repairs Submitted 11/12/2011 10:45 AM
  20. Hi there, just completed a fairly simple but satisfying repair on my Cayenne. Although there are some instructions posted on this repair, I thought I would take some snapshots as I went just to provide a visual reference for anyone doing this job for the first time. First thing, open the hatch and pop off and disconnect the light: At the same time, remove the screw inside the anchor for the luggage net on each side: Pop off the center roof panel. I got this started by loosening the first anchor through the hole where the light was, which made it easier to get started. Here is a picture of the backside of the roof panel to help you get a sense of where the anchors are located: Once off, some of the metal clips may be left behind in the frame. Use needlenose pliers to remove these and snap them back into the panel. Moving on to the two side panels, snap the anchors starting from the top and work your way down to the base where the speaker is. Disconnect the speaker, pull out any metal anchors that stayed in the metal frame and set the piece aside. Here is an image of where the anchors are located in these panels: Once those are clear, you will need to remove a white plastic molding which is held in place with three torx screws: Push the rain gutter tube to the side, which will give you fairly good access to a black foam panel that is glued to the frame. It is fairly thick, but if you loosen one end you can pull it free without damaging it. Behind that is the strut. Here is the foam panel, and a picture of it removed so you can see the thickness of it which will give you an idea of what you are working with when you first go to remove it: Once you have clear access to the strut, I used a long screwdriver to pry off the end closest to the front of the car first, and then closed the tailgate a little, and popped off the end attached to the tailgate. It is worth noting that the tailgate is heavy, so have someone help you here or use something sturdy to prop it open. Clean off the ball joints - mine were filthy - and you are ready to install the new struts. To make it easier to snap the new struts in place, you can loosen the compression clip on each end of the strut. I used a flathead screwdriver here to open them a little, put the new strut in place, then snapped the clip back into a closed position. I did not take the clip off, just opened it a little - then with my finger it just snapped back into a locked position. I anchored the strut to the body first, then the tailgate, as you can peek through the open tailgate hinges to help you position the tailgate end just right. With the tailgate fully open, they popped in with not much force at all. Here is an image of the compression snap: Once done, just work in reverse: reinsert the foam piece (I used a silicone adhesive to seal it back up and make sure that it was watertight), reinstall the white plastic piece, hook the speaker back up, attach the lower body panel (I found it easiest to work from the bottom by the window, working around the bottom edge, then working my way up), then the roof panel, and finally reconnect and reinstall the light. Having never done it before, it took me about an hour and a half. Here is a snapshot of the part you will need (you should replace both sides at the same time). They cost me about $100 apiece Canadian from my dealer and the part number is 955-512-550-06. Hope that helps you out, Mark
  21. That is a great suggestion - I know a trustworthy local shop to ask just that. As for Ebay, I have looked, but all I ever see is the 2.1 DVDs. Mark
  22. True, I guess I am a little picky about these things - I just want it to be functional. I am hoping that there is another owner somewhat locally that may be willing to trade or let me buy their disks.
  23. My point exactly - the expense is quite high. My problem is that the system keeps asking me to insert a disk as I believe it thinks I am still in Ontario. I just want to bring it up to a state where it doesn't prompt me.
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