luxter

Those short trips are most damaging to your engines. And oil. It takes approximately 10 miles to fully warm the beast up to operating temperature. There is close to 10L of oil and 32 L of coolant. It takes time to bring the machinery to its operating temperature. If on top of that you drive it hard during warm up period, in essence you cause accelerated wear in the engine. Mijostyn, I am certain that your UOA would improve significantly after a long drive. Fuel dilution is typically associated with track use or a pattern of hard acceleration followed by hard braking and over again and again. A fuel dilution reading can be either extrapolated from the flashpoint or an actual reading. Check with your lab what method they use. You may be able to guess fuel dilution by low viscosity and elevated wear. A good tell tale sign is condition of your oil filler cap. Have a look at the inside of it. If you see brown deposits, your engine most likely does not get to Op. Temp. often enough or long enough. Moisture in oil will accelerate oxidation process and introduce acids primarily from combustion byproducts and that will negatively affect your TBN. These are complex issues. I can only offer some suggestions. Based on my UOA, my TBN dropped to 8.4 only after 7,400 kms. That suggest that higher oil change intervals are possible with CFS NT. Happy to discuss this subject further. Cheers, Luke

Hey, I've been in oil and gas for last 20 years, so happen to see, climb, inspect, etc. these towers. Stinky business. Yes, don't worry about nickel. There is direct correlation between KV 100C, HTHS and film strength. I don't have this doc handy but all three trend he same way. The easiest way is to monitor your oil pressure at idle in the same temperature. You will eventually see a slight drop in pressure. A good indication of oil dropping its KV. The CFS indeed is a bit thicker than M1 but not much. Both are on thin side of 40 grade. My suggestion blend some 10W-50 (say 10%) with 5W-40 to help your fuel dilution. The other issue never mentioned previously is that 996/997 don't drain oil completely. There will be always about 1L of old oil left inside the engine. That old oil very quickly contaminates your fresh fill. Yet another reason to change oil frequently. I'm also hoping that the nano onions help with IMSB and bore scoring. My experience with Millers oils matches yours. To me price is not an issue. These engines are +$35K. Good to hear from you, all the best, keep posting. I'll try to visit more often, as soon as get through my divorce. Cheers, Luke

Oh, RE fractionation, found a good picture.

Interesting, my TBN dropped to 8.4 after about 7,400 kms last year. Need to find my UOA and post it. Too busy with daily stuff. The oxidation was above 50 but Millers say it starts at about 45 or so. The KV was at low 12 IIRC. I think we were talking with Harry about your high nickel in UK last fall trying to understand where it came from. Otherwise wear metals look good. Great oil without a doubt. In fact Hartech UK recommend CFS 10W-50 in all water cooled 996 and 997's. Cheers, Luke

Full SAPS Amsoil Euro may be a good fit. Amsoil makes quality products. Just ensure its full SAPS. M1 5W-50 contains a lot of viscosity improvers to get to 5W ---> 50 range. It shears in service to 40 grade quite quickly. I would honestly prefer more shear stable product. Motul X-Cess is A40 approved and consistently delivers excellent UOAs. Millers CFS NT is the only product from the above list that offers nano technology to protect engine parts in boundary and mixed types of lubrication (when most of engine wear occurs). It's been in my sump for last year and a half. The engine runs silk smooth, powerful and delivers improved fuel economy. My search is over. Search for my user name, I posted some UOAs in past with Motul and M1. Here and on Rennlist. YMMV Cheers, Luke

I don't agree with this statement. Gasoline boiling point is 25 - 75*C. It will boil out of oil which is much heavier at about 300-400*C boiling point. It's called fractionation and has nothing to do with polar nature of gases or fluids. That is how gases, gasolines, naphtha, kerosene, oils, etc. are extracted from crude oil.

Quite welcome Mijostyn, As I mentioned, the CI-4+ M1 TDT is no longer available, but to be fair, the X-Cess 5W-40 produced even better UOA with ALL metals below or at averages. Great stuff for sure. I will post my CFS UOA later this year for sure. Give me a month or two. I would not hesitate one moment to recommend X-Cess for a daily driven Carrera. Great fluid at a great price. Regarding transmission fluid. I've been running the CRX 75W-90 NT for abour 300-400 km now. It has bedded in quite nicely and improved in cold shifting department as well. Last night my wife took my C2S for a drive. When she came back, her first words were: "the tranny shifts really nice!". I kid you not. And trust me, she does not give a flying fig about lubricants, like I do. I've seen already about freezing point in the morning and shifting is quite comparable to P-approved fluid at the same temperatures. Perhaps a tad notchier, but not much. Keep in mind that shifing may be a function of many other parts including clutch assembly, linkage, etc. as well. Yes, I was quite intrigued by that EE 75W-90 NT. I will give it a shot next spring after we wake up from winter hibernation. Its KV should be around 830 cSt at freezing point IIRC, much lower than CRX NT and a lot closer to P-required 600 cSt at 0*C. I have good access to Sheel S5 ATE 75W-90 (P-approved) and Millers (I also sell Millers products where I live). So much for lifetime fill in the tranny, right? Ha, ha, ha.... Yes, Millers dampens really well all gears inside those G-boxes. And engines too. Much quiter engine compared to M1 0W-40 as an example. But I am biased, so don't listen to me. Happy motoring! Luke

First, thank you Mijostyn for posting CFS NT UOA and very interesting comments. In last three years I graduated from M1, through M1 TDT (UOA link below), Motul X-Cess (which worked very well in my engine, I will post my UOA later when I find it) and Motul 300V 10W-40. This spring I settled on Millers CFS 5W-40 NT. Currently about 6,000 kms on it and so far nothig but excellent experience. The negine is running smooth and quiet. No oil consumption (as opposed to M1). I will post my OUA later this month or in November. I also changed my transmission fluid from Shell Transaxle 75W-90 to Millers CRX 75W-90 NT. At first I thought that was a bad idea. There was some notchy shifting while cold. After about 250 kms oil bedded in and now it shifts as good as P-approved fluid. Here is OUA from M1 TDT. Keep in mind that this CI-4+ formula does not exist any more. It was reformualted to CJ-4 around 2010. It also lost a fair amount of Zn and P. Cheers, Luke

Single row replaceable bearing 6204 ID = 20mm OD = 47mm Dynamic Load = 12,800 N Static Load = 6,600 N Limiting Speed = 11,000 RPMs with grease Single Row Non-Replaceable bearing 6305 ID = 25mm OD = 62mm Dynamic Load = 23,600 N Static Load = 12,100 N Limiting Speed = 12,000 RPMs with grease The load rating of 6305 (the non-replaceable one) has been increased by nearly 85% compared to 6204. The 6305 is larger therefore more of the bearing is submerged in engine lubricant all other things equal. Seems like a substantial change in design. =L=

My first UOA. Car driven from May to Sept. with gentle warmups and full RPM range once oil warms up to ~ 200F. All mileage in kms. My concern is that higher Al may indicate some piston wear (excessive or not) due to what Hartech UK describes as scoring of cylinder wall. Any constructive comments welcome. What I noticed however that TDT would get marginally hotter than other 5W-40 oils that I used in past in similar (if not identical) conditions. Just marginally higher on oil temp. gauge. I did not data log for comparisons. Cheers, Luxter

Have a look here: http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/997/222456-spongy-thing-my-airbox.html Cheers, L

So, actually trying to hijack this thread: How about Softronic reflash using Mac? Softronis site says it clearly in here: http://www.softronictuning.com/installation/ "Windows XP, Vista, or 7 is required. The program will not work with a MAC. Do Not use a MAC even if you have it setup to work with Windows. Do not use a Netbook. You must have a minimum of 3GB of ram. You cannot use a Aircard. Please make sure to disable ANY antivirus software and screensavers for the reading out and flashing process." Can anyone confirm that either Bootcamp or Parallels would not work? This could be quite a costly mistake I suppose to just try and fail....

No need for Parallels software, Windoze XP partition works well with dual boot, just like Orient Express mentioned. Works for me too, no issues. You need a FULL version of whatever Windoze version (XP, Vista, 7) you fancy to install on your Mac.

Here is the response from Redline that I received asking for a summer driven (winter stored) 997.1: Thank you for contacting Red Line Oil, in your 997 the first choice for use during the summer would be the 10W40, providing the best sheer stability of those three (edit: 0W-40, 5W-40 and 10W-40), significant moly levels a good all around choice for your driving conditions. At your moderate start up temperatures there wouldn’t be a need or a benefit to the 0W40 or the 5W40. In addition to the above: Q: Would you also confirm that 10W40 is the only oil in this group without VII’s? A: The 10W40 is the product of the three that doesn’t contain any VI improvers. Q: Is 0W40 more to conform to Euro specs, such as low (or reduced) SAPS, Zn and Ph? A: The 0W40 is not a low SAPS oil. Theoretical additive levels: Oil ...Zinc ...Phosphorus ...Sulf.Ash ...Moly 0W40 ....1330 ....1200 ....1% ....950 5W40 ....1323 ....1175 ....1% ....100 10W40 ....1330 ....1200 ....1% ....950

Coolant temperature is one thing. Nice to have it in 175F range before asking your engine for more power. Oil temperature is another animal. Keep watching your lube temp. gauge: it will climb a lot slower. Assuming you use M1 0W-40 at 100*C your viscosity = 14.0 as designed by engine and oil manufacturers for minimum wear. However: 95*C = 15.6 cSt 90*C = 17.4 cSt 85*C= 19.6 cSt 70*C= 29.0 cSt How much power would you like to get from your engine when oil is only at 40*C and its viscosity is 78.3 cSt about 4 times more than designed for optimal wear?

Hi Paul, I followed your link, but it appears that this domain is for sale. When was the last time you visited that site? Cheers, L

As I understand correctly, there is a way to drop or lower an engine in 997 to gain better access to top of it without breaking engine-tranny bolts. If I am not mistaken, it requires obviously supporting the engine from the bottom of oils sump and releasing engine rear mounts. Does anybody have a writeup or instructions how to do it properly and what clearance can be gained using this method. Many thanks in advance, Luxter

Thank you Jon. I found a lot of good info on Pelican forum. Not as easy as it sounds. Cheers, Luxter

Hi Jon, The good thing is that his nighbour has a four post car lift in his garage, so any under the car work could be a lot easier. I wass thinking: Drain fuel tank and refill with fresh fuel, Drain oil + new oil filter and oil Obviously check for that leak, but bring the car back to life first so we could drive it to a decent shop in case things aren't rosy. Any thoughts?

Gents, Friend of mine inherited a 1975 Anniversary Edition silver 911. It has been stored in his garage for last four years of so without seeing daylight. I can only imagine that tires got flat spots, gas in tank must look like sauerkraut and oil to match it in its reservoir. He claims that there is a leak of some sort (I didn’t get to see the car yet) on the driver side of the car, possibly power steering, judging by his description and color. What would you recommend to do before bringing this silver beauty back to life. I imagine oil change would be in order followed by fuel tank flush, brakes flush. All constructive suggestions are welcome. Any similar past experience anyone? Many thanks in advance, Luxter

Don’t mean to steal this thread, but I have a question to JFP. You mention use of 10W40 oil in 996/997 engines. I don’t mean to start another oil thread. Believe me, I read many of them and after much reading I came to conclusion that for spring-fall driven 996/997 the 10W40 makes most sense. Would you mind expanding on this subject a bit as you seem to speak from experience. Many thanks, Luxter

Also Mann filter distributed by Amsoil is identical to Porsche one less the Porsche logo imprinted on filtering element. Can someone explain purpose of several rubbery (latex??) windows at the bottom of filter housing. And on another note, some automated car washes require you to idle your engine and move your car forward while in the booth. Any possibility to hydrolock the engine given short path between outside of the car and throttle body.