Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Ahsai

Contributing Members
  • Posts

    2,804
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    10

Everything posted by Ahsai

  1. Yea, hard to pinpoint where the iron/copper are coming from though. Will try another oil change in 4000 miles and see what the report looks like. There are comments from the tech in my lab report (attached in my original post). Seems nothing to be too concerned yet.
  2. Just got my first oil analysis report. Oil is Motul x-cess 5w-40, had ~5,000 miles on it and car has almost 50k miles. TBN=6.7 (TBN=10.9 for virgin oil) Both iron and copper seem to be quite higher. Magnesium is ~10 times higher than normal! Never any engine work. Oil and oil filter changed every 5k-7k miles/every yr, whichever comes first. Should I be concerned? What engine parts contain copper? E90745-edited2.pdf TIA
  3. Um...from the -0.19 TRA, your engine is actually running RICH at idle (DME is removing fuel, more than spec, trying to correct tthe RICH situation). That is also consistent with the MAF failure description you quoted.
  4. Yea, I've tried both measruing the inlet/outlet temp and the post cat O2 sensor reading. All are normal.
  5. So the natural question is do those COLD air intakes help? Would be nice if someone who has one could provide some log data.
  6. Actually no current issues at all :) I was just trying to establish a baseline (if there's a way) to monitor how quickly/slowly the cats will deteriorate. There is a built in automatic (not triggerable by user) Cat efficiency test but it has a binary output (Passed/Failed). I was looking more for some continuous value that tells you how good/bad the cat is performing even before it triggers any CEL. Kind of like mode 6 data that tells you the acutal value before the value crosses the "failed" threshold.
  7. Ok, Logray. I did two logs for you this morning. One 15 min drive started from cold engine. Ambient was about 50F. IAT started at 79F and slowly creeped up to 84F as I was driving in local streets and the engine was warming up. Then I had to park the car for 10 min. Restarted the car, IAT started at 106F, then went up to 118F (~47-48C) and stayed there when I was driving on local streets/highway for 25 min or so. Then I stopped the car and kept the engine running for 6 min during which time the IAT creeped all the way to 144F but stayed there. My long term fuel trims are 8% and 5% in bank 1 and 2 respectively btw and the engine is quite smooth both idling and on power. If you touch the airbox after a drive, it's actually quite warm. So I'm not too surprised if the air is warmed up to 118F steady when crusing but that's just speculating.
  8. Logray, I just went out to my car, park it on my driveway and plug in the OBDII scanner. The engine was fully warmed up. When idle, the ambient temp is 54F and IAT is 54C=129F. My car runs fine. I think I noticed similar thing before but when car is moving though, the IAT should be much closer to the ambient. My theory is when the car is not moving, the hot air close to the cat is sucked into the airbox via the small holes (for water to drain) at the bottom of the air box below the air filter. So maybe you IAT sensor is just fine?? Have you checked IAT when the car is actually moving?
  9. Hi Loren, Thanks for the answer and yes, I understand you can do it manually like that. I was just wondering ifthe DME can run some tests and show a consolidated value that indicates efficiency directly.
  10. Hi all, Does anyone know if Durametric can indicate the health of the catalytic converters? If so, which value I should look at and how to interpret those? I'm sure the dealer can do that with their factor tester since a tech told me before. TIA
  11. Thanks Logray and JFP. Yea, I saw this thread which LOgray also replied to. Good to know this solenoid is just remove and replace. I'll check the connection first and then go from there.
  12. Um...Durametric said P1341 is camshaft adjustment though. All coil packs were replaced by dealer a few months ago. Car drives very smoothly and there is no CEL. Thanks.
  13. Hi Loren, Logray, and all, I've searched but only found info for pre-2001 cars, which don't have VarioCam+. My CEL has NEVER been ON but Durametric retrieved P1341. Does this code mean the actuator or its connections are at fault? Mine is a 2003 Carrera 2 coupe manual. Is this the actuator, which Porsche call Solenoid Hydraulic Valve? 1_2002_911-Solenoid.pdf or this one, which Porsche call Vane Cell Adjuster? 1_2002_911-vane-cell-adjuster.pdf If the former and it's failing, is it just a simple remove and replace? Or I need to remove the cam cover, re-time, and such? Many thanks, Ahsai
  14. Mine is similar. Oil sweats but no drops. My AOS was replaced by dealer a few yrs ago when my car ('03) was still under factory warranty because I complained about high oil consumption (1 quart per 1400 miles) and I didn't know it was not uncommon for these engines to consume that much at the time. However, the oil sweat returned not long after AOS replacement and my car is still consuming oil at the same rate. How much oil does your engine consume? I'm speculating that my oil consumption is because of oily air from the AOS get sucked into the throttle body and the new AOS unit the dealer put in was also defective. My 2003 uses a quart every 5000 miles. That's pretty good. Thanks for the info.
  15. Mine is similar. Oil sweats but no drops. My AOS was replaced by dealer a few yrs ago when my car ('03) was still under factory warranty because I complained about high oil consumption (1 quart per 1400 miles) and I didn't know it was not uncommon for these engines to consume that much at the time. However, the oil sweat returned not long after AOS replacement and my car is still consuming oil at the same rate. How much oil does your engine consume? I'm speculating that my oil consumption is because of oily air from the AOS get sucked into the throttle body and the new AOS unit the dealer put in was also defective.
  16. Thanks a lot! Just downloaded it. Will take a closer look. Thanks again.
  17. I got an aweful creaking noise when I adjust the passenger seat forward/backward. Sounds like it needs some lubrication. Anyone know where to lube? Can I just partially remove the seat and tilt it up to access the bottom motor/track/hinges, etc. to lube? 2003 Carrera Coupe regular leather seats. TIA
  18. Post a pic, please. The original cailper should be painted so it should not have any plastic to peel. Maybe the calipers were refniished at some point where the "Porsche" sticker was applied before clear coat?
  19. Oh btw, please don't use 5w-30. Ireland is not THAT cold :) Some people think even 0w-40 is too thin, let alone 30! Everyone has his favorite and mine is Motul 5w-40 x-cess. Excellent oil.
  20. For P1411, check post #3 here http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/996-turbo-gt2/178926-cel-codes-p1411-p0410-need-diagram-picture-secondary-air-inj-pump.html It's for a Turbo car but the principles should be the same. You have the codes only for bank 2, which points to the secondary air suplpy to bank2. P0430 standing alone would most likely be a failing catalytic convertor (barring exhaust leak ahead of the O2 sensors or misfires or marginal O2 sensors and such). Now with P1411, maybe one is triggering another. I'm not sure.
  21. All your sensor reading seems fine at idle at least. What are the readings at crusing @3000rpm? Also, what are the short and long term fuel trims at idle and at cruising? Also, can you read the freeze frame data, which can tell you under what conditions the codes were triggered.
  22. Our alarm is silent. If it honks when you arm the car, it means the car has detected any of the following is still not closed: doors, front trunk, rear lid, your arm rest lid. Have you pulled the engine compartment light and the front trunk light to make sure those are not draining the battery?
  23. 1. Check this thread if you have not http://www.renntech....el-p0410-p1411/ 2. If it smells sweet, it's coolant 3. Try to use a flash light to shine some light on it at an angle and look at an angle. It will flourese if it's coolant. 5. Sounds like started gear not retracting completely or retracting slowly. Did all these happen the same time?? You seem to have 1 a year ago when you posted then. Good luck.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.