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Ahsai

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Everything posted by Ahsai

  1. Ahsai
    That is not normal. Normally lock and unlock are all silent. The beeps indicate the car thinks there's something not closed such as the glove box, frunk lid, door(s), or engine cover lid.
  2. Ahsai
    You may want to check out this thread. I know a replacemt switch. Let me know if you need the info in case you plan to replace the microswitch.
  3. Ahsai
    You're in good hands! Hooefully it's something relatively minor.
  4. Ahsai
    It's unlike a coil unless you also get a CEL with P03xx codes.
  5. Ahsai
    With the belt off, you use the stethoscope (a simple mechanical $10 one will suffice) to trace where the noise is coming from by touching the suspicious areas. Check out the video of how to use one here. When the belt is off, the idle load on the engine is much less and that may make a difference in terms of generating noise. No need to guess anyway, just use the stethoscope to probe different places of the engine until you locate the source of the noise.
  6. Ahsai
    Also check if that pinging sound is from one of the catalytic converters (loose element inside) and all the spark plugs are tight.
  7. Ahsai
    For some reason I missed some of your video clips till now. The crank pulley doesn't look wobbly to me. However, that pinging sound is not good and I can't tell what it is because it doesn't sound like lifter or bore scoring to me. It does follow the rpm directly so it's something reciprocating internal of the engine. Your water pump needs replacement for sure and the a/c compressor clutch is not too bad. I would definitely try to track down that pinging sound first (by using a stethoscope carefully) with the drive belt off the engine.
  8. Ahsai
    The a/c compressor should not feel scratchy but I'm not sure if it's enough to make the unpleasant sound you described. Since you mentioned you can hear the noise when the car is stationary, you can use a mechanical stepthoscope to check the a/c compressor pulley (the clutch is stationary when the a/c is off) by touching the probe on the pulley. Obviously, be very careful though with all the moving engine parts.
  9. Ahsai
    How about the alternator, the steering pump and all the pulleys when you hand spin them?
  10. Ahsai
    +1 Their diagrams are the best and the same as the PET. Most Porsche dealers that sell parts online use a different one same as the one Sunset Porsche uses. To get parts, I've been a die-hard Sunset fan and have been getting parts worth close to $10k in the past 13yrs.
  11. Ahsai
    Also you may want to do it sooner rather than later because brake fluid is very bad for hard plastic (in addition to paint). Hard plastic will just fall apart if in contact with brake fluid for a long time.
  12. Ahsai
    That does sound suspicious. The gasoline should have evaporated with the engine heat and 300-mile round trip of driving. Since you have checked all the connections and they appear to be dry, I can't think of other things to do other than keeping an eye (and nose) on it. Which exact part of the fuel system did you disconnect during the coolant tank job?
  13. Ahsai
    All spark plugs have specific heat range and other specs and are engine specific. I'm not familiar your plugs from Oreilly but you should get 99917020791 or Bosch/NGK equivalent. Should be like $5 each.
  14. Ahsai
    Do the plugs have the correct spec?
  15. Ahsai
    4.5g/s sounds ok. I think the spec is 15~18 kg/hr. May want to check rhe fuel pressure and regulator then.
  16. Ahsai
    What year is your car? 1126 and 1130 means the engine is running rich. Too much fuel pressure or not enough air. Could be the MAF. Have you made sure all coil connectors are firmly seated? What is the MAF reading at idle with engine warmed up?
  17. Ahsai
    "the last one is an Oxygen sensing code." <- what was the code in addition to P0300?
  18. Ahsai
    If your a/c is working well, most likely it's hydraulic fluid. Are the cap and the lock ring tight? Best is to clean up the area well with brake cleaner and monitor the leak. If it's a/c oil, your refridgerant would have leaked out with that much oil. The engine oil temp sensor is plugged onto the right side intake manifold runners on a 996. 997 may be similar
  19. Ahsai
    Glad you got it sorted. I can't really explain what happened though. Probably an intermittent ignition switch or starter solenoid.
  20. Ahsai
    Yes but it's another test to confirm you really have a problem with the ignition switch/fuse Yes, the switch in my diagram represents the mechanical ignition switch. Yes, the DME/immobilizer control only pins 85 and 86. The ignition switch induces the RFID signal from your keyfob, sends it to the immobilzer, which tells the DME to activate the start lock relay. Once the engine starts spinning, the crank position sensor will generate signal to the DME so the DME will activate the coils for sparks and also keep the fuel pump running.
  21. Ahsai
    Yeah, I agree it's odd and I can't explain it either. The start lock relay is controlled by the DME and immobilizer. If your RFID is bad, the DME will not power the start lock relay. However, note that the test you did was with the start lock relay removed so DME and immobilizer were not even in the picture. If you put a very fat wire to jump pins 30 and 87, you should be able to crank the engine. If it does crank but not fire up, it means the ignition switch is fine but somehow the DME is not firing the ignition coils (a bad RFID or a bad crank position sensor can cause that).
  22. Ahsai
    Did you hear/feel a slight click when plugging the connectors on the coils? You may want to check and make sure the connections are tight. The 997 p/n seems to be correct for a '01 996 per autoatlanta.
  23. Ahsai
    You said when you turn the key to the cranking (momentary) position and you don't have 12v at pin 30. As you can see from the wiring diagram 12v from the battery goes to the 80A fuse, then the ignition switch then to pin 30. No voltage at pin 30 when you turn the key to crank can only mean the 80A fuse or ignition switch.
  24. Ahsai
    The 80A fuse is in the power distribution box under the dash passenger side but it sounds more like the ignition switch to me because that 80A also controls a lot of other electrical parts too such as the wipers.
  25. Ahsai
    The sound is nornal. Non-Durmaetirc scanners are not going to be useful in this case. Check out the circuit diagram I drew here. Remove the start lock relay and check if you have +12v at pin 30 on the socket when you turn the key to the cranking position. Then with key in the last postition before crank and clutch fully depressed, pin 86 should have +12v also. You should also get 12v between pins 85 amd 86.
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