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cbzzoom

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About cbzzoom

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    Seattle WA
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  • Present cars
    2006 c4s
  1. I think this fear is unfounded; a lot of people are worried about the effect on PSM, but all my reading indicates no problems related to that. (for example, this is a pretty common mod on Turbos and I've never heard of them having a computer-related problem) I do believe you're right that the half shafts is the wrong way to go, it seems like a huge pain in the butt - CV boot grease, axles well stuck in the wheel hubs,etc. not for me! A little reading indicates the easier way to go might be disconnecting the main drive shaft that goes from the transmission to the front diff.
  2. I'm thinking about trying the simple "RWD mode" on my .1 C4S ; my understanding is you can just disconnect the half shafts in the front and the car should run just fine. (front diff will still spin but since it's not connected to anything that's no problem). Anyway, my question is - are there any DIY's on half shaft removal/install ? Is this a reasonable home DIY?
  3. The TUV results have been posted often on popular Porsche forums. It certainly makes Porsche look good, but it has basically nothing to do with reliability. Obviously if you have an IMS failure or a D-chunk failure, or a scored cylinder, or an AOS failure, or a rod bolt failure, or a snapped shift linkage, or broken water pump, or cracked coolant expansion tank, or any of the other many failures that afflict modern Porsches you simply won't take your car in to the TUV office for inspection. It does seem that most of the M96/97 failures are of the rare/catastrophic variety. (the only except
  4. I've got a grey car myself, but I agree 100%. It's so boring and conservative all this silver and grey and black. I want to see more, yellow, red, heck I want to see kermit green and orange and chartreuse and bright crazy colors. I'm sure it helps reduce accidents because you're so visible. Unfortunately I think it also helps the police spot you...
  5. BTW this just came up at the same time on Rennlist : http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/997-forum/401471-6-speed-manual-trans-oil-change.html I did some research and it appears that the Porsche OEM fill that they call "Shell Transaxle" is in fact Shell Helix Racing 75W90. If you look at a viscosity chart : http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/visc.html it's obvious that 75W90 is a very loose spec, so they are absolutely not interchangeable. In particular, the Shell Helix Racing is one of the thinnest 75W90's you can get - most of them (Red Line, etc) are thicker, particularly at low tem
  6. I just started getting this issue in my 06 C4S. Up until last week it was very smooth taking off in 1st, now it judders pretty badly. If I launch pretty hard at high revs, it's fine, but if I'm gradual and gently it hitches, it feels lumpy; all the higher shifts feel just fine. I did the normal "clutch slip" test by flooring it on the freeway in 4th gear, and it didn't slip at all. I've done a little research, here's what I gather : This is most likely an issue of irregularities in the clutch-flywheel contact surface. It's normal for it to show worst in reverse, and otherwise bad in 1
  7. Because you enjoy paying huge amounts for very trivial services? Changing the trans fluid is *really* easy and almost impossible to do wrong, because you just fill it as far as it will go. (obviously under warranty don't DIY) About the Delvac : my understanding is that the OEM fluid was Mobilube PTX or Shell Transaxle , but consumers can't buy that. I've seen around the net that some people seem to be using Delvac successfully but it's definitely not the same. I imagine the best place to get OEM fluid is from Sunset or such like. Pelican shows Swepco 201 and Red Line 75-90 for our cars
  8. Most high performance tires now are asymmetrical, so you can't do this. Even on ones that aren't asymmetrical, the tire manufacturers recommend it, though lord knows if that's for good reason or just to pad their pockets.
  9. My rearview mirror rattles something fierce, it's starting to drive me mad. It seems to be the front and back plastic halves of the mirror itself that are loose and rattling. I figure I can just take it apart and put some foam or felt tape inside. Has anyone does this, or have a diagram about how the mirror comes apart and go back together?
  10. All indications are that the M97 has many of the same failure modes as the M96 (IMS, RMS, cam chain, cylinder liners, etc). Unfortunately we don't have preventative measures available yet and in some cases they are hard/impossible to do without taking the engines apart. Hopefully Flat6/LNE figure something out. As it stands, I believe you can buy a 996 and do the aftermarket mods and get a more robust engine than an M97.
  11. I'm looking to buy an early 997 (probably 06 or 07, 20k - 40k miles), and for various reasons it looks like I probably have to buy one from far away online (the biggest issue is that I want adaptive sport seats which seem to be very rare). I've learned a bit by reading here (eg. obviously get a PPI), but I have a few questions. I'd prefer to get a car from a P dealer so it's CPO, or from a 1-owner private party, but it seems like most of the cars are being sold by independent sports car shops) 1. I've talked to two dealers (not porsche dealers - just some generic sports car shops) who ref
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