OscarAH1W

I am completely flummoxed by this noise I am getting in my 2004 Turbo Cab. A couple nights ago while driving home with the top down, I noticed a rattle different from the normal sound of the motor and not accelerating/decelerating with changes in engine RPM. It occurred at 1800-2000 rpm and was most noticeable when decelerating in 2nd gear in my neighborhood at slow speeds (~20MPH)... with a helper on the throttle and the engine compartment open, it sounds like it is coming from the right side-top of the engine, around the Hydraulic reservoir. Putting a spanner/wrench on the component and up to the temple seems to have confirmed this as the source. I checked my manual and the Pentosin level (mid range on the HOT side of the dipstick at operating temp) I realize that Porsche recommends checking at 20C but I live in Texas now and that won't happen until November. Just out of curiosity I looked at the clutch reservoir up front and after removing the gooey trim cover, found it leaking (Seeping) from the recently replaced cap and appearing to be overfilled. The car has never really been operated in the 8 years I have had it in particularly high average temperatures, so I am hoping that the front is thermal expansion. Any thoughts on this matter are greatly appreciated... Loren? What Say You?? Thanks in advance,

Greetings all... Over in the Cayenne section there is a post about the PCM System error: UNKNOWN UNKNOWN UNKNOWN UNKNOWN UNKNOWN UNKNOWN UNKNOWN when starting the system up... no ultimate resolution but the consensus for the cause is a break in the line... I have a 2004 Turbo Cab and installed a MoBridge system and have had ZERO issues. My Parents have a 2004 Turbo Cab where the previous owner went cheap with either the Nav-Tv adapter, the installation, or BOTH (But when you get an otherwise pristine Turbo Cab with 28,000 miles for $42K, you don't nickel and dime). The installer unplugged the CD changer and pulled the plug off of the fiber optic wires (that plugged into the changer) using a line break splice to plug the two wires together instead of plugging in a loop per the NAV-TV instructions. I bought both male and female loops so that I could put the vehicle cables into a new plug and install the other plug with the loop. Since the issue isn't resolved (but the audio works so this has to be the "break") I have to assume it isn't getting a good connection. Upon closer examination, the fiber optic cable ends on the loops are gold metal and shorter than the plastic ends in the car loop. This end difference prevents the plastic ends from seating far enough into the plug to make a good connection. Any advice on how to either replace the ends, or a part number for the original Porsche plug that I could match with a different loop? I am thinking that Porsche probably have a plug that goes into the CD Changer MOST connector for vehicles that don't have the changer installed...Thanks!!

Can someone validate whether or not the dealer ACTUALLY has to install the PCM 3.0 Nav Update? Unless there is some voodoo that they have to do with the PIWIS, why do they need 2 hrs of labor to insert a disc and press "enter" a few times?? Seems a waste if you can read directions... Thanks for any help.

Odd one for the group here: I have a 2004 Turbo Cab (manual) with X50 that I have owned since early 2010 and put around 30K miles on in that time (Bought with ~20k miles). I recently found a 2004 Turbo Cab (Tiptronic) with ~29,000 miles that was such a good deal that my parents purchased it. I drove the thing recently while visiting and a couple times in constant-radius turns on back roads, the PSM intervened out of nowhere (The first time it happened I actually thought I hit a shift button with my thumb and downshifted mid corner). Anyway, I got it to intervene once more in a pretty benign turn. There certainly wasn't 7 degrees of slip angle and I have to push my own car much harder (read: screw up the corner entry) to get PSM to intervene. I guess my question(s) is/are this: Is there a difference in the PSM software between the Tiptronic cars and Manual?, a malfunction in the Tip? Very interested to hear the responses. Thanks

Has anyone noticed the dwindling options for the 295-30-18 Rear Tire on our Turbos (and GT3s)? It is getting almost ridiculous that the choice is now PS2, Bridgestone, or P Zero. Hankook made the Ventus V12 Evo in that size then discontinued it with the Evo2. I found some Falken FK453s (which are great tires) but hear they are discontinuing that size. Pilot SuperSport: Nope. Sumitomo Makes the HTR ZIII in our size but is it any good How about the Kumho Ecsta SPT? Not many options, I am interested in others' experiences since it seems ridiculous to hang $2K worth of tires when you can get similar performance for half the price...

That's funny! Thankfully I don't have the bald spot but the forehead has turned into a 5-head, LOL. I certainly get not liking to have the top down in the city. I won't drive in traffic with mine down either. Enjoy the coupe'!!

Buy the Turbo Cab. Turbos are phenomenal GT Cars and the cabriolet doesn't come with much of a cargo penalty unlike corvettes, R8s, etc. You want a track car at the price point, get a 996 GT3. They're still somewhat reasonable. Being able to put the top down and hear the air sucking into the intercoolers on full boost is great fun and with the wind-barrier installed, will keep the wife's "do" intact for the most part. 996 Turbo Cabriolets were only made in 2004-05 so they are FAR more exclusive than Coupes. Value in scarcity. My .02...

I used to flip the nozzle upside down then on a lark, I tried the collar that Porsche sells for about 10 bucks. 997 201 944 00. Worked well enough on the Turbo Cab that I immediately went back to the dealer and bought a second one for my GT3. No more flipping and no more holding the handle. Cheers!

Great DIY; thought I would add my recent experience doing the 4 year on a 7,300 mile 2011 Cayenne S. The Mahle Filter comes with an accurate instruction sheet if you forget to print this out (like I did, LOL). Also, as wwilliams88 pointed out, pulling the latch is problematic. I found that you'll have exactly what you need to pull the latch on the filter cover if you happen to be changing the oil along with the Cabin Air Filter Change. The old rubber seal from the oil filter cap works PERFECTLY to unlatch the filter cover. You can twist it giving the loop a bend that makes it easier to hook the latch. Took me about 30 seconds to get the latch and the rubber is plenty strong to pull the cover down and off. Hope this helps!

All, Since the Feds have determined (in their infinite wisdom) that blue brake fluid makes it too hard to ensure one doesn't put Washer Fluid in the Brake Reservoir or vice-versa, what is a good way to ensure brake fluid is fully replaced when it is the same color? Can you go by volume of fluid pushed out of the caliper? Is there a way to dye the gold fluid without messing up the boiling point? Thanks for the help; I have blue in the car now and one can of blue left so I have 2 changes worth, but my friends who I help regularly are stuck...

I replaced my stock shift knob with the GT3 RS alcantara version... Slipped back on fine but has a tendency to ride up and I'm always banging it back down. any suggestions to hold it in position better? Thanks...

I wouldn't give him the time of day. 3 words for your friend: LIVE REAR AXLE. No sports cars with that archaic setup. You drive a car that, at 10 years + old is still worth more than his Mustang. Best part of owning a Porsche is ignoring people that always want to prove themselves up to the task. You are the benchmark so don't even let them think you notice them. Drives 'em NUTS. If he still wants to look at numbers, give him this: 16 24 Hours of LeMans victories, 28,000+ motorsports victories... 'nuff said...

I put one on my 04 Turbo Cab... that sticky strip is nigh on useless. I cleaned the heck out of the surface, degreased, alcohol, you name it and it still came undone. I re-did it with 3M seal adhesive and other than 3 inches worth on the right, it has held for a few years. I honestly can't tell a difference with or without the thing. Hope that helps...

For future reference, if you don't have the parts CD, AutoAtlanta have an online interactive parts catalog where you can look through the diagrams and get the part numbers then plug it in to the usual suspects (Pelican, ECS, Jim Ellis, You name it) and you can find the best deals. I have had great luck with ECS being about 25-30% less than retail ($619.66 on your lid) but can take a couple weeks and shipping is expensive on heavy parts (rotors).. Pelican works well for me because a part might cost a little more but the free FedEx Ground amounts to free overnight shipping since I live 2 hours away. Bottom line is that easy access to the part numbers leads to efficient research which ensures you are satisfied no matter who you end up buying from. I don't buy anything without consulting every source. Cheers!

Weird thing happened the other day. Taking my '04 Turbo Cab to get smog checked and the light came on while I was on the highway... It appeared to be in the up position (hard to tell from the cockpit) and I actuated it via the switch with no issue. When I slowed down the spoiler went down so Ok there... Pulled up to the repair shop and turned the ignition off then on again and the light cleared. Any ideas? Just a Hiccup? Thanks

Just took my 996 Turbo Cab in for a shudder that felt like balance. Rears were shot. I get under the car regularly and hadn't noticed but... So around 15K on the Hankooks/2 1/2 years on the tires. Michelin seems adamant (talked to a rep at Laguna Seca) about not making the supersport in 295-30-18 even though there are around 40K 996 Turbos, GT3s and C4Ss out there and that is only Porsche. Less than half the price of PS2s and about the same life? No brainer. Fronts are wearing great. 2 new V12 Evos, please. 215 bucks each at Discount Tire.

The GT3 and TT both use the Mezger GT1 engine. Modified from an air cooled block with liquid cooled cylinder jackets. No liquid cooling ports/channels in the block mean the liquid is circulated external to the block and those lines are held to the block with adhesive. The GT3 motor has different internals: Lightened Crankshaft, Titanium connecting rods, lightened valve train, etc to reduce rotating mass. The Turbo motor (obviously) has the additional plumbing, turbochargers and intercoolers, but not the lightened internals.

Fix Your GT3 Lip Spoiler For Good! For anyone who hates replacing the plastic Porsche Expansion Rivets, I have found a solution that seems to work a bit more reliably. Total cost is less than $20 Here are the parts: Hex-Screws 3/8" Washers (between lip of expansion nut and spoiler) Rubber Expansion Nuts #10 Washers (between hex screw head and expansion nut) Finished product: You may need to open up the holes in the bumper cover slightly to accomodate the larger expansion nuts. The rubber expansion nuts give a l Author OscarAH1W Category GT3 (996) - Common Fixes and Repairs Submitted 07/18/2013 06:47 PM

UWON, No sweat... I am still sold at this point on the Hankook V12 Evo. 90 percent of the performance at half the price. Not all that loud, either.

Question for the group: The previous owner of my '04 GT3 put holes in the rear seat well carpet for harness attachment points. With the mounts unscrewed, the holes are unsightly. The 996 part number (996.551.021.91) runs 800-1000 dollars for replacement. Out of curiosity, I looked up the part for the 997 GT3 figuring some of the parts carried over and got updated part numbers, and the 997.551.021.91 is less than 300 bucks. Is it the same piece of carpet? Looking at the parts diagrams, it is hard to tell but the foam-backed carpet piece that covers the shock tower mounts ( 996.551.033.91/997.551.033.90) appears the same so I am hoping the seat well carpet is, too. Thanks for any info you can provide

I put the Ventus V-12s on the Turbo Cab and was looking at doing the same for the GT3 when the time comes (shod with B'stones) until I heard the too-good-to-be-true spiel on the Pilot Super Sport. Once it was finally available, I saw happily that the 235-40-18 size was available for the fronts but SHOCKED to find out that the 295-30-18 was not only unavailable, but that Michelin has NO INTENTION of making that size. Here is their initial reply and my reply to them which was unreturned... (insert favorite derogatory French comment here...) Owen, we appreciate your request for Michelin Pilot Super Sport in size 295/30ZR18. Unfortunately, we do not have any plans to manufacture this tire at this time. We are constantly looking at market demand and integrating into our development and production processes. Your request will be forwarded to the appropriate Marketing Group for future consideration. my reply: Thank you for the quick reply to my question. I have to admit, though, that I am stunned by the response. That tire size is spec for the 18 x 11 rear wheel on ALL wide-body Porsche 996 cars and some narrow body models like my GT3. A quick review of the production numbers for Turbo models, Carrera 4S models, GT2 and GT3 reveals around 45,000 units from just Porsche requiring the 295/30ZR18 tire. Oddly, Michelin make the 235/35ZR18 PSS which is only applicable to the 8.5 inch wide front wheels for the 996 GT2 and GT3. The totals for those 2 cars is less than 5,000 over the production run. (all the other cars mentioned above have an 8" wide front wheel and use a 225 mm wide front tire.) I fully realize that it is all about the math, but that being said, do Michelin collectively think they'll sell more 295/25ZR21 versions of the Pilot SuperSport? Then again, it can't be all about numbers because these tires aren't hung on high-volume cars like Camrys, Civics and other non-performance cars and trucks. Just food for thought as the company could make a lot of Porsche owners who had been anxiously awaiting this new tire happy, and take a chunk back out of Hankook after the Car and Driver tire test of a couple years ago. Thanks again, As I said before, no reply from "Bib" Sorry for the long post but I figure if more Porsche owners hammer at Michelin about this, maybe they'll start making the tires we need/want

Not to add to the confusion, but when you plug the part number from the factory (996 351 409 9H) into any retail web site (pelican, auto atlanta, etc) you get prices averaging 500 bucks a side. I know they are 350 mm but what else is compatible? The GT3 Cup rotors (996 351 410 9J M294) show up as 350mm x 33mm. They are also FAR less expensive ($205 a side). Enter the "updated" part number for the 997 (997 351 410 90 M294) shows up at about $350 per side but they are 350mm x 34 mm. I am confused and don't want to waste money. If the Cup rotors will work/last 80-90% as long for 67% of the price, it's a pretty good deal...can someone help me sort this out? Thanks!

Hey, Not sure if you ever pulled the trigger on new audio but here's what I did for my GT3. I bought a Kenwood KDC 995 (didn't even think about waiting for the 996, HA) and had it installed using the stock speakers. The head unit has single CD, iPod, Pandora, Bluetooth and XM ready. Easy 150 dollar install at the shop and it is REALLY easy to reinstall the crap CDR-23 if you sell the car. Sounds pretty good even with the stock speakers and the iPod makes the cd changer obsolete. Bluetooth works well despite the louder cockpit of the GT3. You can customize the color in the LCD panel so it exactly matches the orange of the rest of the lighting... only about 400 bucks for everything too. Just my 2 cents.

Have you measured the cracks? There is a Porsche spec sheet that allows the cracks up to 7mm, if I remember correctly. IMHO, the rotors are awful expensive to replace if they are still in spec. Then again you can't put a price on peace of mind.