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Posts posted by DBJoe996

  1. Remember when you are dealing with tires that not only are you dealing with the size (18"), width of the wheel (10"), but also the width to sidewall ratio 265/35. A wider tire with less sidewall 295/30, although looking "cooler" because of the width, could give you a bone jarring ride and make your wheels more suspectible to curb rash, breakage, heat and all types of other stresses, including nasty unpredictable stresses on your suspension components. Another 10-15 mm may not seem like much, but it could make a huge difference all the way around with a wider tire and reduced sidewall height. IMHO a lot would depend on your driving (DD, weekender, track) and area where you live (manholes, potholes and other tire destroyers). My 99 daily driver is very happy with 225/40/18" front and 265/35/18" rear setup. I would rather be more "GO" than "SHOW" myself...but that's just me. And, I don't want to argue that a wider tire will give you more go...I've yet to ever break them loose on a dry takeoff or failed to take a curve at more than twice the recommended speed. Seems like quite a gamble at $300+ per tire to experiment, unless you've got some money to burn and can live with the expense of changing them out if they don't work out. Hopefully other posters will weigh in.........

    • Upvote 1

  2. Sometimes when I have run into this type of trouble I go to the nearest auto parts store. They have bearing pullers that they "loan" for a nominal fee, basically they rent them to you. I would also contact LN engineering immediately and have them send a replacement. Plus I would ask them for some technical advice...perhaps there is something you are not doing correctly that would cause this to be more difficult than it should be.

  3. Thanks VX700. Looks like we are of like mind on both the minor scrapes of life with our cars, and the FabSpeed's. Enjoyed the video posts you put on sport exhausts thread, and since you have them, you know what I mean about the "snarl". Love my FabSpeed exhaust system, just makes that daily drive just that much more thrilling! BTW - to massage that dent only cost me $75. Knowing I wouldn't see that everytime I washed/looked at the car = priceless. You take care and love the drive!

  4. Thanks! You know how we always have reservations/fears about having repairs done...just wanted to let you know this worked better than I ever thought. I knew I could not just look at that dent forevermore. I blasted out of there, rolled down the windows and listened to that unforgettable flat six siren of an engine snarl on up the hill and away, all the while with the biggest smile on my face. I know we were both really happy and it showed. Happy motoring!

  5. Ever had one of those days? Wife ran over something with the Mini...checked the tires last night and this morning. Noticed the tires needed a bit of air, so dragged out the air compressor in the garage and went about bringing it all up to spec. While maneuvering between the cars in the garage and turning I banged the air compressor into the front left fender of the Porshce! My heart skipped a couple of beats! Boy ohh boy did I put a dent in it. I thought 120,000 miles, no door dings and then I do something really stupid like this. My heart dropped and I knew this might not be a good day. It had a pretty good dent, but luckily no paint scrape. Got on the phone to the best body shop around and said I may have the perfect candidate for the paintless dent removal process. They told me to get in touch with the Dent Ranger here locally. Gave him a call and met him at 10:30.

    What he did was pure magic! 20 minutes later, no scratches, no dent...all polished out. There must have been tears in my eyes when we inspected the fender and I realized there wasn't a mark or any evidence of that dent whatsoever. This is a brilliant technique, works, and the guy was awesome. My day went from depression to joyful. Highly recommend this to anyone. If you are in the Daytona Beach area...he is the Dent Ranger at the Farmers Market. Image post repair and I would lay a bet that no one could ever tell what happened.


  6. One more suggestion - while you are "under" there replacing plugs and checking connections, remove and clean up the engine block/frame ground wire. It's on the right side (passenger)...easy to find, knuckle buster to get off without some long extensions, but corrosion there could cause some intermittent/low voltage problems. Clean up the connectors and points of contact with some sandpaper.

  7. I'm betting on one or more bad spark plugs. Signal implausible - no reading (or from a human thought standpoint, unbelievable reading) either no feedback or outside range of acceptable values. Along with the security torx bits, pick up a can of MAF cleaner...works great! I love my Durametric...clear my stupid secondary air injector fault code all the time. Very good weapon in the toolbox arsenal...worth the piece of mind.

  8. You need to research your fault codes:

    P0300 Random Misfire Detected

    P0301 Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected

    P0303 Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected

    P0102 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Low Input

    P1316 Misfire, Emission Related, Signal Implausible Cyl. 1-6

    P1313 Misfire, Emission Related, Signal Implausible Cyl. 1-6

    P1319 Misfire, Emission Related, Signal Implausible Cyl. 1-6

    P0306 Cylinder 6 Misfire Detected

    Obviously you are getting random misfires on one or more cylinder. Replace all your spark plugs, clean your MAF and throttle body, check your engine wire harness connectors for corrosion, run a tank with Techron. Since you replaced your coils, might be a bad one in the lot. Switch them around and see if you can isolate the bad one. Invest in a Durametric!

    When your engine is cold it takes a lot more voltage to create the spark, hence weak or bad spark plugs with too much gap (don't chance it, these are cheap - throw the old ones out!), weak voltage to or bad coil, corroded engine wiring harness creating weak or random electrical voltage problems. Just my two cents....

  9. Please let me clarify why I commented do not "pressure wash" your engine. Yes, not only all the sensitive electronics that will not react well to that much pressurized water getting into every nook and cranny, but in this case you are considering the throttle body and plenum area on the top of the motor. Consider the layout of your engine. It is a flat six buried deep in your engine compartment. If you blow out that the top part of the engine with a pressure washer, all you will do is blow that gunk onto the top casing of your engine block in between the air manifolds where it will sit forever and turn into a toxic sludge eating into the aluminum block. If you have ever pulled the throttle body and air intakes to replace, for instance, your starter, you will know exactly what I mean. The stuff that builds up in there is incredible and has no place to go.

    I cleaned the top of the engine casing in between the manifolds (when replacing the starter) with rags soaked in Goo B Gone, vacuum cleaner and compressed air...took me hours and hours of gentle cleaning and patience. Besides the expected dirt and dust, I pulled out rocks and leaves and all manner of stuff that had found it's way in there.

    This is not a Ford F-150 V-8 with an accessible open engine compartment (been there, done that, no offense intended)! IMHO taking a pressure washer to the engine compartment is asking for big trouble. If nothing else, removing the throttle body, checking and cleaning it plus the air plenum splitter (intermediate piece the throttle body attaches to) is not all that difficult, and more that likely you will find your vacuum leak or the source of the oil residue blowby. At least you will have the satisfaction of having all that cleaned up properly. Image is my engine after cleaning following replacing starter. 120,000 miles and running strong!


  10. My experience - cool clear water, distilled would be best as there are no minerals that could leave a deposit. Blowing them out with compressed air ensures no water droplets on the inside that dry and leave a spot. Let me ask you this - would you clean the outside of these $700+ light units with a water/vinegar mix and possibly damage the acyrlics or coating? Same goes for the inside. Not a good time for an experiment! When doing something like this, best to be as gentle and safe as possible. If it is just dust, then they should rinse clean. If it is slightly pitted from the burn off of halogen gas from the bulbs, then you either have to live with it or replace with new light cans($$).

  11. Do not "pressure wash" the engine! All kinds of bad things will happen from there...way too many electronics in there. Why not just wipe that down with some clean rags and maybe a little WD-40 to clean things up a bit and then watch it over time to see if any thing develops. Sounds like you have a small vacuum leak and I agree, that rubber hose fitting is not OEM. I would start right there.

  12. Try this - remove the light "cans" from the car. Remove all the bulbs and electrical wires from the light units. Fill them up with water and rinse several times...then blow them out with a rubber hose attached to your air compressor. The rubber hose let's you run it back up into the light unit without scratching anything. Let dry overnight, reinstall the bulbs and electrics, reinstall the lights. There you go!

  13. I did quite a bit of research and ended up with the Michelin Pilot Sport AS Plus for my 99 Carrera. I was not so much into outright performance as I was with quality, price and wear. They have been perfect for my DD, look good and are wearing like iron. Tires have 20,000 miles on them and show almost no wear whatsoever....even the inside tread of the rears. I love the way they grip in the rain and I feel safe. They are quiet even with the AS. Love them so much I replaced the tires on the wife's Mini with the exact same thing. Get an alignment check once the tires are on and drive, drive, drive! And, I think it goes like this, the N1's are older models, the N4's being the newest latest generation. I have been totally satisfied with my decision, but then again, I'm not seeking track performance or sustained high speed capabilities, just safety, wearability and reliability. That's my two cents.....

  14. A reminder to do a little project before something like this happens - with the trunk lid open, remove the plastic piece surrounding the latch mechanism, find the manual release cable and re-route it to rest just inside the bumper plug where the tow hook screws in. Then if the latch dies, all you have to do is pop the bumper plug out, pull the release cable and open the trunk manually. Takes about 10 minutes to do this and can save you hours of frustration.

  15. Suggestion - if the sound follows your road speed, it is suspension, drive gear (CV joints), wheel bearings, or tires, something chassis related, not engine or transmission which would be engine RPM related noise. I would crawl under the car and check all of the above for problems. You could find an open stretch of road, get the car up to speed, put the transmission in neutral and coast to try and identify where the noise is coming from. Helps to have a partner along! Roll down the windows and listen, left front? Left rear? Back or front of car? If you can identify the quadrant of the car where the noise is coming from, it will help you find the source.

  16. If it is any consolation, I recently changed my water pump. Prior to replacement, I had the green colored mix anti-freeze in the expansion tank. The new Porsche anti-freeze is pink, and that is what I refilled the system with. Result - Pink+Green=light brown color. I'm not worried about the way it looks. Temperature stays at 180 and everything else is fine. One day I'll flush the whole system and replace with the new pink colored coolant. But for now, daily driving and love this car!

  17. You are over thinking this! Shop for a shorter (lower) drain pan that will hold at least 10 QTS, and then:

    1) Jack up left rear side of car (or right side depending on your garage layout)

    2) Place jack stand under frame in case of jack failure

    3) Slide drain pan under sump drain plug

    4) Loosen plug and let oil start to drain, make sure pan is centered

    5) Remove jack stand and slowly lower car over the drain pan

    6) Go have a beer, then another one

    7) Stand back, admire your car

    8) Go take a nap (or take 30 minutes and polish your headlights/wheels)

    9) Repeat steps 1 & 2

    10) Reinstall drain plug with new washer, torque to spec, change filter

    11) Lower car, refill with oil, fire it up and go for a spectacular drive!

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