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Sunnyside

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Everything posted by Sunnyside

  1. I am afraid to say its a box out and full strip down job. Also at that point your clutch packs should also be changed out as well. I suppose it would cost you over states side in the region of $2000 to simply overhaul. The pump its self is about $300. I'm sure theres some one over with you that can do the same ore even uprate the clutch packs for you. It will be interesting to read some of the codes. Changing out the fluid and filter is quite easy, the fluid is a dark crimson reddish new, but if the oil has got too hot caused by continuous hard high power driving or also by slipping clutch packs the oil turns very dull golden to brown and can smell odd , sort of a sintered smell. once ATF is overheated it never recovers even if just heated for a short period. Excessively overheated Tip fluid can destroy a box in a matter of a few hundred miles!!
  2. If he uses Porsche System Tester PST2, PIWIS , Durametric or Autologic testing equipment he will be able to read out all the DME and TCU fault codes. A simple hand held code reader IMO will not be sufficient. If your Indy does not have the correct test equipment then he is not a suitable indy to take your car to in the first place. These cars produce codes faster than Greece prints money. You need an Indy that's can read, data log and down load codes. All of them! if you want a full description of what the codes are post them up and I will copy the relevant pages form the Workshop Manual. Ps you want one of these: http://www.durametric.com/default.aspx Considering you have what was once a $150,000 car the extra cost of a Durametric is well worth the investment. Ps PS I should have said with the type 2 as I describe it, the slippage when you change gear ( like a manual clutch slipping and associated increase in engine speed) only happened on mine under load, you could drive the car about normally and never know there was a problem. I believe it has to do with there being enough oil pressure to stop slippage under low torque but once the torque increases the oil pressure is insufficient. My Tip had a Hairline crack in the pump housing ( common by all accounts). I now have an MKB uprated Tip and TCU.
  3. Hi James there are 2 or 3 common types of slip, probably more but the most common types are : 1 Slippage from having too much torque, normally felt when accelerating in 3rd ( for reasons already stated) . This slippage is normally in the mid engine rev range when the car is under max Torque. 2. Slippage in 3rd due to reduced oil pressure, can be caused by a number of things but commonly a damaged oil pump ( cracked housing) will reduce the clutch clamping pressure enough for the Torque pull on 3rd again to make the packs slip. This would also show as an increase in engine speed when you actually change gear. Just as if a manual car had a slipping clutch. As the clutch pack eventually bites, the slippage stops and all is well untill you do another gear change. Eventually, though, this will wear out the clutch packs. 3. Low oil in box, blocked oil pick up and or filter or severely damaged pump . This can cause slippage in any gear. Of course damage or blockage to any individual solenoid actuator valves will also cause the associated clutch pack to either not engage at all, be slow to engage. There are a number of speed sensors in the box, N1, N2........ etc These measure the speed relationship between different parts of the gear shafts.If it senses that a shaft that is split with a gear on it is not turning at the same speed ( ie a differential speed) it will log a fault code. If they sense excessive speed difference (large slippage) that is likely to cause damage it will put the box into Emergency Run mode, also the DME will be told to reduce throttle angle and hence reduce the available power and help protect the box further. This is why you WILL have code logged in the TCU and also the DME These boxes are incredibly complicated and it could be a multitude of reasons why you slip in 2nd. it could be the solenoid valve blocked? Again codes will help point you in the right direction. post the codes an i will past the description of the fault for you. Frank
  4. James, you will just have to run the car and see. If its going to slip 3rd gear clutch packs will go first as they are the smallest in diameter and the least amount of them in the box. 500 bhp is not enough to upset the clutch packs. Over 550 will start to give problems. It is in fact Torque that kills the clutch packs so its the torque figure that really counts . Above 550 bhp and over 550 ft lbs torque will start to wear the packs and cause slippage.
  5. Battery reset normally fails when there is a hard fault causing limp mode to be continuous . The other reason for the apparent not resetting after battery disconnection is of course that the DME isn't in limp mode to start with. you might have a big boost leak, so no matter how much resetting you do will never resolve the problem. 1st port of call should be codes followed by a boost leak test. Hope you get the problem resolved, I look forward reading about your results . :thumbup:
  6. I know PST2 can read tip temp and I'm 99% sure durametrics can as well. The tip box is made by mercedes, so as long as its the same item, be it under a different name I'm sure the filter will not only be megga cheaper but will be fine. I use the OEM ATF for my tip , but again, if Mercedes have the same stuff under a different name it will do. BUT. Make sure its to all the exact specifications. As to the clutch packs, most likely you will not have done any major damage so long as that's all it did ie Just one slip. However, if you find that there is plenty of fluid in the box (by which I mean the correct level , no more and no less) then there is a good chance that the slippage is caused by the ATF pump in side the box. They can develop a crack in the pump housing which inevitably means reduced oil pressure and clutch pack slippage. That's a big repair but lets not worry about that at this stage. I can only take it form your post that your car has no power mods because after about 550 bhp the clutch pack can slip anyway??
  7. Hi James , If your getting warning Tiptronic Emergency Run , its because you have a problem with the tip box. Sounds like low oil but you will have to have it checked out. You must have the fault codes read out and by the sounds of it there will be quite a few. Some will cross ref with each other as one fault can cause another which will also be recorded. for eg, low fluid level will give a low pressure code, but low pressure will also cause slippage of the clutches which will give their own codes. PST2 or Durametric can read out all the codes.you must get it checked. If the clutch packs have slipped excessively they will be damaged. and your into repair territory.
  8. A few things that worry me are; Why hasn't the workshop put an external boost gauge on the car and taken the car for a test drive to prove boost is correct or not. & 0.4 bar of boost is a significant figure. That's what the boost would be if the DME goes into limp mode and pulls boost. If your workshop come back and tell you boost is low on an external boost gauge, I would want a boost leak test doing. what does Durametric say your boost is? Frank.
  9. Jim, I think what you have done by left foot braking and using the throttle is use up the vacuum reserve, so the brakes were no longer servo assisted for those few seconds. That's what it sounds like anyway.
  10. You have already answered your own question : So it seems like a good and very fair deal... IMO 127K is nothing for one of these cars. every one gets het up about mileage. I would prefer 127k long distance miles than 50k of hard thrashing, You already said you know the owner very well , what more do you want ? Some one else to buy it before you get the chance? IMHO you already know what to do. Good luck with your new Turbo and look forward to your review about it on here . Frank :thumbup:
  11. I have had the exact same problem, the arm that pushes against the micro switch came away. You will have to dismantle the glove box. As Loren says, a pain to do but a lot less of a pain in the wallet than taking it to an OPC.
  12. Anymore info on this, I haven't heard of a problem like that but it would sure be handy to know about for future reference. Thanks, Frank
  13. Your own admission is that you have washed it so you did get it wet. Start with what you have done and work backwards. If a door or roof seal is leaking then it stands to reason you will have got water in the car. The lowest sup in the car is where the Alarm/cl modules sits. It controls not only the alarm, but immobiliser and also all your power up functions. ie sleep shut down modes. Fry that unit and you end up with masses of seemingly unrelated problems. A US car will still have the unit but it may well be under the drivers seat. Just saying on uK cars its under the passengers.
  14. A couple of things I would be thinking about at first glance is: 1: How good is the battery and or battery contacts?whats our battery voltage? 2: Have you flooded under the passenger seat. UK car. That's where the Alarm/central locking unit is housed. A very common problem is water getting past seals and flooding the lowest part of the floor, which incidentally is where Porsche in their wisdom fitted the unit. 3: Try and get some one with a Durametric diagnostic computer to read the fault codes. By the sounds of it your going to have a few. Best of luck. Frank
  15. The gauge in the car does not read vacuum however the engine does pull a vacuum in the plenum.
  16. Excellent news, but come on, you know the Renntech score tell us all what was the problem and how did you fix it.
  17. You know, I had this problem as well when I changed out my tip oil and filter. I decided that the chances of ever having to do another fluid change was so small that i would just use the Porsche recommended fluid. Its expensive but it lasts for tens and tens of thousand miles. I didn't want to take the chance and have the OPC send the oil away just to find it was the incorrect grade. At the time I had a warranty. But still its just worth it IMO. Frank
  18. Well done Ronny, great blog. I would love to run a diary about all the work done to my car, just would know how to do it :thankyou:
  19. Very nice car and sounds like you have some excellent mods done already. Enjoy and keep us all updated as you get to drive the car some more. :thumbup:
  20. How many of you find it a bit annoying when member posts about a fault and asks for help, you get interested and look forward to reading about the outcome and the OP doesn't bother to post back :( I love to engage with an OP in the hope of getting as much experience with the faults these cars can have. Who else has the same thoughts. Sorry about the :soapbox: Frank
  21. sorry, theres loads of information there from the workshop manual. Its assumed in the manual that your using PST2 but durametrics will do the same job. (The information is from my 996tt workshop manual CD and is pasted in order as it was on the page. the information is in table format on the computer but is printed as a list so you have to follow the steps carefully) Hope this helps and I will be following the outcome so please keep us all updated. As i said earlier the alarm system is so complicated its a bad point with the car IMO. With that many faults, i would check the Alarm/cl module has not got wet. If the door seals or the seals inside the door cards are poor the water collects in the lowest point in the car, which just happens to be where Porsche fits the Alarm / Cl module. :rolleyes: Frank :)
  22. 96-63 Fault code 61 Central locking limit position - unlocked not reached Diagnostic conditions • Control of central locking system in the direction of "unlocked" Possible cause of fault ♦ Wrong country coding ♦ Short circuit to ground/open circuit in the wiring between the alarm system control module, central locking switch or door locks ♦ Door lock (driver/passenger) faulty ♦ Control module faulty Affected terminals Plug A, terminals 5, 28, 29, 30, 32 Plug B, terminal 3 During troubleshooting, the micro switches of the door locks are tested in Step 4. The test is to be used only for vehicles with "safe position". USA vehicles do not have a "safe" position; "Driver’s door secured" and "Passenger’s door secured" are therefore displayed during the "Input signals" test. Diagnosis/troubleshooting Note! Work instruction Display OK If not OK 1 Check coding ♦ In menu item "Country coding", check whether the alarm system control module is correctly coded for the place of use ⇒ Step 2 Recode the alarm system control module (country coding) → Ende 2 Check central locking switch ♦ In the menu item "Input signals", select "Central locking system button" ♦ Actuate central locking system switch and check the statuses on the screen ⇒ Step 3 ⇒ Step 5 96-63 page 2 9601 Fault code 61 61xxxi48 96 3 Check leads between the alarm system control module and the door locks for short circuit to ground ♦ Pull plugs A and B off the alarm system control module ♦ Pull plug off both door locks ♦ Measure resistance between plug A on alarm system control module pin 5 and ground ♦ Measure resistance between plug A on alarm system control module pin 28 and ground ♦ Measure resistance between plug A on alarm system control module pin 30 and ground ♦ Measure resistance between plug A on alarm system control module pin 32 and ground ♦ Measure resistance between plug B on alarm system control module pin 3 and ground ∞ Ω ⇒ Step 4 Repair wiring harness → End 4 Check leads between the alarm system control module and the door locks for open circuit ♦ Measure resistance between plug A on alarm system control module pin 5 and pin 7 on plug of door lock on driver’s side ♦ Measure resistance between plug A on alarm system control module pin 28 and pin 7 on plug of door lock on passenger’s side ♦ Measure resistance between plug A on alarm system control module pin 30 and pin 3 on plug of door lock on driver’s side ♦ Measure resistance between plug A on alarm system control module pin 32 and pin 3 on plug of door lock on passenger’s side ♦ Measure resistance between plug B on alarm system control module pin 3 and pin 2 on plug of the driver’s side and passenger’s side door locks ♦ Measure resistance between plug B on alarm system control module pin 9 and ground < 5 Ω ⇒ Step 5 Repair wiring harness → End 5 Check micro switches of the two door locks (possible detection of faulty driver’s/passenger’s door lock) ♦ Push plugs A and B back onto the alarm system control module ♦ Reconnect plugs to both door locks ♦ Close doors ♦ Vehicle not secured and not locked ♦ Select "Driver’s side locked", "Passenger’s side locked" "Driver’s side secured" and "Passenger’s side secured" in menu item "Input signals". Driver’s side not locked Passenger’s side not locked Driver’s side not secured (not applicable to USA vehicles) Passenger’s side not secured (not applicable to USA vehicles) ⇒ Step 12 ⇒ Step 11 6 Check central locking switch ♦ Remove central locking switch and pull plug off the switch ♦ Measure resistance between pins 4 and 1 on the central locking switch Central locking switch actuated in "open" direction < 5 Ω Central locking switch not actuated in "close" direction ∞ Ω ⇒ Step 6 7 Check central locking switch ♦ Measure resistance between pins 4 and 2 on the central locking switch Central locking switch actuated in "open" direction < 5 Ω Central locking switch not actuated in "open" direction ∞ Ω ⇒ Step 7 8 Check the wire from the central locking switch to the control module for short circuit to ground ♦ Pull plug off central locking switch ♦ Pull plug A off the alarm system control module ♦ Measure resistance between plug A on control module pin 29 and ground ∞ Ω ⇒ Step 8 9 Check the wire from the central locking switch to the control module for open circuit ♦ Measure resistance between plug A on control module pin 29 and plug on switch for central locking pin 1 10 Check the wire from the central locking switch to the control module for open circuit ♦ Measure resistance between pins 1 and 2 of plug for central locking switch approx. 180 Ω at 20 °C ⇒ Step 10 11 Check wire from fuse C 3 to central locking switch ♦ Switch on ignition ♦ Measure voltage between plug on the central locking switch pin 4 and ground > 11 V ⇒ Step 12 Check fuse C 3 or repair wiring harness → End 12 ♦ Depending on the test result of the input signals test in step 4, replace the driver’s/passenger’s door lock → End 13 ♦ Replace alarm system control module → End
  23. 96-51 Fault code 46 Central locking synchronisation Diagnostic conditions • Central locking system controlled in "safe" or "locked" position Possible cause of fault ♦ Short circuit to ground/open circuit between alarm system control module and door locks ♦ Door lock faulty Affected terminals Plug A, terminals 5, 19, 28, 30, 32 Plug B, terminal 9 During troubleshooting, the micro switches of the door locks are tested in Step 1. The test is to be used only for vehicles with "safe position". USA vehicles do not have a "safe" position; "Driver’s door secured" and "Passenger’s door secured" are therefore displayed during the "Input signals" test. Diagnosis/troubleshooting Work instruction Display OK If not OK 1 Check micro switches of both door locks ♦ Connect PST 2 and switch on ignition. ♦ Close doors ♦ Do not lock or secure the vehicle ♦ Select the following switch positions in the "Input signals" menu ♦ Driver’s side secured ♦ Passenger’s side secured ♦ Driver’s side locked ♦ Passenger’s side locked Driver’s side not secured (not USA) Passenger’s side not secured (not USA) Driver’s side not locked Passenger’s side not locked ⇒ Step 4 ⇒ Step 2 2 Check wiring from control module to door lock for short circuit to ground ♦ Pull plugs A and B off the control module ♦ Pull plug off the door lock with the incorrect switch positions from step 1 ♦ Measure resistance between plug A on control module pin 5 and ground (if on driver’s side) or pin 28 on the control module and ground (if on passenger’s side) ∞ Ω ⇒ Step 3 Repair wiring harness → End 3 Check wiring from control module to door lock for open circuit ♦ Pull plug off the door lock with the incorrect switch positions from step 1 ♦ Measure resistance between plug A on control module pin 5 and plug on door lock pin 7 (if on driver’s side) or pin 28 on the control module and pin 7 on the door lock (if on passenger’s side) < 5 Ω ⇒ Step 6 Repair wiring harness → End 4 Check leads from the alarm system control module to the servomotors for short circuit to ground ♦ Pull plugs off both door locks ♦ Pull plugs A and B off the alarm system control module ♦ Measure resistance between plug B on control module pin 9 and ground ♦ Measure resistance between plug A on control module pin 19 and ground ∞ Ω ⇒ Step 5 Repair wiring harness → End 9601 Fault code 46 96-51 page 3 Alarm system I 48 46xxxi48 96 Printed in Germany – 4, 2001 5 Check leads from the alarm system control module to the servomotors for open circuit ♦ Pull plugs off both door locks ♦ Pull plugs A and B off the alarm system control module ♦ Measure resistance between plug B on control module pin 9 and pin 2 on plugs of the right and left door locks ♦ Measure resistance between plug A on control module pin 19 and pin 9 on plugs of the right and left door locks < 5 Ω ⇒ Step 7 Repair wiring harness → End 6 ♦ Replace right or left door lock → End 7 ♦ Replace control module → End
  24. 96-39 Fault code 33 Passenger compartment monitoring sensor faulty Diagnostic conditions • Alarm system activated Possible cause of fault ♦ Passenger compartment monitoring faulty Affected terminals - Diagnosis/troubleshooting Work instruction Display OK If not OK 1 ♦ Replace passenger compartment monitoring sensor → End
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