WolfgangK

Hi, if you install the Tequipment Carrera rear wing on a MY02 996 (Tequipment part# 000 044 802 04) you also have to install a front lip (I think it's part# 996 505 555 01) which is included in the kit. I don't like the rear wing too much, but I am interested in using the front lip which is installed at the lower end of the stock front bumper. Did anybody install this? Do you have a picture of it? Does it use existing mounting holes and what additional parts are needed in addition to the lip itself? Does it need to be painted? The part itself is rather cheap (~50$), but before I order it I'd like to see it installed somewhere.... Thanks and regards Wolfgang

Hi JP66, the seatbacks of the GT3 seats don't recline at all. I don't know how tall you are, but with my 1.85m there is plenty of space left behind the seat if you drive in a proper distance to the steering wheel. Sitting too far away limits the ability to control the car, but some people prefer such a position. Then the seat may conflict with the x-bar. Regards Wolfgang

Well, if the unpleasant noises at speeds of +150mph are the only problems we have, we can easily live with.... even in Germany. :cheers: Wolfgang PS: I would also trade in my 996 for a Vanquish.....

Hey Toddel, I had a similar problem with a noisy window above 150-160mph. The dealer cured it by adjusting the passenger door/window. You mentioned that your door was replaced.... I assume that it wasn't installed correctly. You won't see this when the car is standig still. It may look fine, but if the pre-stressing is too low, it will lift due to the negative pressure at higher speeds. Another source is the front lid as Henry explained. Don't try to position the front egde of the lid equal to the bumber edge. That may look better, but it causes noises. I also heard of front screens making noise. At high speeds there is a vacuum at the lower part of the screen which can lift the window if it's not properly bonded to the body. But your problem can be verified rather easy, just open the window a bit or push it with your hand (well, maybe the passenger can do it) when the noise apprears. Wolfgang

@ Richard: the LED is single flashing, all lids are closed. No beep from the horn when I close the car. @ Henry: Trying the passenger door does not work.... there is no keyhole :( only the drivers door can be opened manually. @ SFBayArea Jimmy: During summer this does not happen, as I use the care frequently. Within the first 5 days it works perfect, only when the 'battery saving' mode is activated I can't open any more without triggering the alarm. I think I'll let the dealer check it in spring, when the car is back on the road. Regards Wolfgang

Hello Henry, thanks for the hints. I'll give it a try, but since I have to wait a few days after each test it may need some time :( But let me comment some of your proposales: 1. the LED on the dash should be either off (no alarm), blinking (alarm active) or blinking rapidly (alarm triggered). That should give you a first indicator. The alarm is active (blinking) when approaching the closed car. That looks ok. 2. After five days, you should be able to unlock the driver's side door with the key without triggering the alarm. After unlocking, without taking the key out, you can push the 'key' button on the key head. This should restart the remote alarm capabilities. Nope, that does not work. As soon as I turn the key the alarm goes off. That's my main problem. Since I cannot open the door after 5 days with the remote control any more, I have to use the key. And this immediatly triggers the alarm :( 3. Alternatively, after unlocking, by locking and unlocking the door with the key you should be able to turn off the alarm as well. I did not try this yet, but this would at least be faster than opening the door and fiddling the key into the ignition (what a luck that the ignition is on the left side of the steering column) 4. Check the batteries in your key, maybe they are weak I tried it with both keys and the remote control always works fine, so I don't think it's a weak battery. 5. If you unlock the door with the key AND open the door within 10 seconds, the alarm will go off. If you don't open the door the car will re-lock itself in 60 seconds. Between the 10 and 60 second interval you can try some of these options above. (60 seconds is default, you can program it to longer intervals). Not really.... If I unlock the door with the key it does not matter whether I open the door or not -> alarm! As soon as my car is back on the road after winter I'll visit my local garage. Maybe there is an error-log in the OBD? Regards Wolfgang

Hi, maybe somebody has an answer to my strange problem with the alarm? Maybe it helps to bring this thread up... As soon as you unlock the door with the key the alarm goes off. Immediatly, no delay, no time to open the door and insert the key to the ignition... Is there something wrong with the key itself? Regards Wolfgang

Hi, my 996 is in the garage over the winter :( , but from time to time I need to have a look to make sure that everything is still fine B) I know that when the car is not locked/unlocked for a few days the remote control turns off to save the batteries. After that time you normally have two options: - Unlock the door with the key, open the door and turn the ignition on within 10 seconds - Unlock the door with the key and lock it again without opening the door. Then unlock it with the remote control. But with my car none of these options works. As soon as I turn the key in the door lock, the alarm goes off immediatly. Even when I keep the door closed. There is no way to avoid this, I can only limit it by opening the door and inserting the key into the ignition as fast as possible. Did anybody experiece a similar problem? What's wrong here? Any idea how to avoid this? Regards Wolfgang

I installed the plate on my X74 3.6l car. The installation with the 4 bolts (or 3, if you have a 3.6l where a thread is missing) is straight forward. If you need a DIY for that, you better leave it to a dealer :cheers: Wolfgang

Hi Sleepy, I doubt that the noise you describe is caused from the CVs. They may cause the 'ticking', but IMHO not necessarily the 'road noise' which sonds like 'worn tires'. I had very similar symptoms on my old 2.5l and tried almost everything (stabiliser, CVs, bearings...). The culprit finally was the front engine mount. Here the rubber inside the mounting disintegrates. The result is that you have a metal-to-metal contact from the engine to the body leading to all sorts of strange noises. It's hard to identify it while the engine mount is installed, but with a bit of luck you can feel (or see) whether the part facing the engine is centered with the part facing the body. Before you change expensive components I propose to give it a try. I am sure you will find more on that in this forum. Regards Wolfgang Stuttgart/Germany

Hello, I plan to replace the CD22 radio in my 996 with a Traffic Pro. Can somebody tell me how to remove the original radio? I searched through the forum, but I couldn't find it... but I remember somthing with 'shirt collar stabilizers' or so? I don't have any Becker removal tools, but I assume there are some tricks :wrench: Thanks Wolfgang

Hello jinijazz, can I ask you what you paid for this handle? Do you eventually have a part number? Thanks Wolfgang

Hi, I accidentially scratched the silver door latch/handle in my MY02 996 (the plastic piece that looks like aluminium, not the leather handle). I'd like to paint it, but first I need to remove it :rolleyes: I found threads how to revove the door panels, but I could not find anything on the door latch/handle. Is there a way to remove without having to remove the whole panel? Regards Wolfgang

Hi Anders, the problem with the smoke is depending on the model year. Early 2002 the 3.6l machines got a longer oil dip stick, a reprogramed electronic oil check and around 1l less oil in the engine. This avoids that excessive oil is fouling the Lambda probes. Since my 11/2001 car got a new engine due to the RMS problem, mine is now based on the new standards and I did not face this problem. I heard of several cases where this 'blue smoke' appeared due to high lateral forces, but I haven't heard that engines had to be replaced. The worst case were two new Lambda probes. My dealer recommended NOT to fill up the to the upper limit, but have it filled in the middle between low and high. Wolfgang

I installed the older type to my MY2002, but I used 3M double sided tape (extrastrong) as Alter Schwede recommended to fix the metal part. I really did not like the idea to drill my sills.... This worked perfectly. Regards Wolfgang

This is really a strange behaviour: 'Porsche centres here in the Uk deny there are any issues with the engine let alone pay for them to be fixed!' I am a subscriber of the UK '911&Porsche' magazine and as far as I remember this RMS issue was also mentioned there a few times. Don't the UK dealers read this? Most Porsche enthusiasts know about it, discuss it in forums worldwide and share their experiences. And they (try to) deny there is an issue at all? C'mon, do we need to tell the dealers what's wrong with their cars? Or do they try to fool you? Why do they think Porsche created this special tool for? To play 'Airhockey' with it? Just for fun? Can Porsche UK afford it to tread customers this way? :eek: I slowly understand why independent dealers are so strong and widespread in your country.... If this happened to me I would immediatly jump into my car and drive the 20 miles over to Zuffenhausen to talk to these folks. Wolfgang Germany

Hi Toni, agreed, the C4S is definitly slower than a C4. The drag coefficient is about the same, but with the Turbo body you have a bigger surface area. That's one reason why Ruf merges hot engines with slim Carrera bodies. But I think our discussion is quite irrelevant for most parts of the world anyway B) as only here in Germany you can (legally) try top speed on an empty Autobahn. :drive: cu one sunday morning on the A81? Wolfgang

My 2002 3.6 had some minor 'oil fog' between engine and gearbox (15tkm), but it did not drip yet. I went to the local dealer who immediatly agreed to fix this. Both seals were replaced then. Unfortunatly this was not a permanent fix, as only 4.000 km later it leaked again. This time they used the proper tool to find out that it is out of acceptable tolerance. Fortunatly a Porsche works guy was there that day and they agreed to swap the complete engine. My dealer told me that the attendance of this Porsche fellow saved some paperwork, but the result would have been the same: no new seal, but complete replacement, two more days in the garage to wait for the brand new engine, but no further discussions or costs. I do not understand why Porsche in UK claims to be unaware of this well known issue? At least here in Germany Porsche AG is very obliging and I cannot complain at all. The dealer was very supportive. I heard of engine replacement even on high mileage cars which are out of warranty for quite some time. If I were Dr Mahen Nadarajah, I would not easily agree to pay for a brand new engine, at least not without involving Porsche AG first. regards Wolfgang

Hey Alter Schwede, is 278km/h all? IMHO that should be a bit more.... My 996 3.6l quite easily hits the 300km/h mark (305max), so a 3.4l even with an AeroKit should be faster. Regards Wolfgang

Folks, I hope you know where the drain plug is :clapping: When I was a student and worked at a petrol station a customer showed up with a VW Golf (Rabbit): His son wanted to change the oil himself, but somehow messed it up. He unscrewed the wrong drain plug and drained the gear box. Then he filled another 4 liters into the engine without checking the level again.... Ok, a few miles later the breather pushed the additional oil into the air cleaner and messed the whole engine bay up :oops: I think the gear box survived it, as he did not drive too far. So before you drain the oil, make sure you know what you do :) regards Wolfgang

...you should get this part at any Porsche Dealer. Officially it fits only on older models (3.4l up to MY2000 when they changed the sump cover) , but I installed mine on a MY2002 3.6l with X74 suspension. This works fine, but one thread at the sump is missing. IMHO this is not a problem, as it is still fixed with three existing screws and in case of 'bottoming out' it is still supported from the engine block where the fourth screw should be. Of course you can drill the engine block, but I would not really recommend this :rolleyes: Weight: less than a kilogram Price: 75 Euro (~90$) in Germany Time to install: 5 mins if you have a lift or a pit. regards Wolfgang

I use 2x 15mm from Techart without mod's (same rims, 285 tires). Regards Wolfgang

.. that looks like an official Porsche dealer. Do they also sell B&M stuff? It's somehow hard to believe that an official dealer offers attarctive prices :unsure: Wolfgang

Hi, I am currently in the Dallas/TX area for a few days and would like to use the opportunity to buy a B&M Short Shifter (in Cab) for my 996. :drive: Does anybody know a dealer in Dallas where I could get this part? As I will be back in the US in two weeks from now an alternative could be a mail order with shipment to a friend. What is the best (aka cheap and reliable) dealer these days? Thanks and regards Wolfgang Stuttgart/Germany

Hey Toni, I found your source :D on ebay in Germany. I recall my previous comment, the box looks similar to my 3.6l C2. I attached the 3rd picture of this part... Regards Wolfgang