cdupont0734

Just installed the IMS Guardian Jr in my 99 911 C2 coupe 6-speed (138kkm) and found some loose bits in the oil sump pan. They are not metallic, ie. not bearing bits, so I was wondering if anybody knows what they are? It is the first time I remove the oil sump. I also found one piece in the oil filter. This is the first time I find a piece in the filter and I check the filter every time I change it every 3k to 5kkm. I am thinking that the black bits that are also in the pan are probably from gasket sealant as they are soft. I am worried about the square white bits (about 2mm in size) though. I'm thinking the water pump is overdue to be changed. When the engine is hot in the summer the temperature gauge needle sits just right of top center. It has had the IMS upgraded and the RMS seal replaced at 110k along with a new clutch and flywheel at that time. P.S.: The IMS Guardian Jr went in pretty easily as the instructions were good. I would just add that the spot I found to run the cable from inside to outside the cabin is between the shift cables under the center console. Every model year is different so no instructions are given to do this part. Thanks, Carl.

I have noticed the same problem. My speedometer reads high by about 6% vs GPS. 17" or 18" rims with the factory tire sizes doesn't change the wheel diameter on account of lower profiles on the larger rim. My dealer says that by law speedometers can vary up to 10% in Canada. I find the whole matter annoying on an otherwise fabulous car. I had a hunch that the speedometer might read correctly for the GT3 model. So I did a quick calculation using rear tire sizes of 315/30R18 for a 2003 GT3 versus 255/40R17 for the base Carrera. The circumference is 5.2% longer on the GT3! That would slow the speedometer pretty close to the actual speed. You can install an app on your smart phone. Ulysse Speedometer Android/Samsung app, works great. P.S.: Some years ago Honda was sued because cars were reaching the end of their warranty too soon because of speedometer error. They extended the warranties on 6 millions of their cars. I don't think its a problem for Porsche as most 911 warranties end on time rather than distance.

Hit the rev-limiter a few times since I got my 99 C2 6sp 4 years ago. Once at the track and once drag racing. Tried, just for the fun of it, to pop the clutch at 4k rpm off the line and it works great. The car squats and then takes off like a bat out hell. Otherwise I usually shift around 5k on the twisty roads and 3k to 5k in the city. I always wait till the engine has warmed up before going over 3k rpm. I change the oil and filter every 5k and take apart the filter and examine it for filings. Replaced the clutch at 110k km and replaced the RMS because it was leaking grease and upgraded the IMS. Now have 130k km abd the filter was looking good as of the last oil change.

99 C2, last pic is at Watkins Glen.

My 1999 C2 had a cam solenoid leak too. It's a pretty minor thing to fix.

I would like to to add that the flywheel and clutch were also replaced. After thinking about it for while, I realized that I don't think I was totally at fault when I down shifted from 6th to 3rd at 55mph. After all 55mph is not very fast. I've had it up to 100mph in third at the track. The reason is that the flywheel was sunk in and there was to much play in dual mass and the springs were worn (too much play), so says my Porsche mechanic. As a result the flywheel couldn't do it's job which is to absorb shocks. All in all this is a great car to own. The performance and quality doesn't disappoint. They are a treat to drive. Looking forward to another track day this summer.

Thanks. It confirms what I suspected all along. ++++ 1 This advice is spot on. Don't do it. In addition it makes your 996 look like a ricer Honda

HI, Wondering if you went ahead and installed them? If you did whether your happy with them? I have a 1999 911 C2 coupe and have also been looking to upgrade. The price is attractive at $100. I also saw the PelicanParts kit for $3000 which probably has self-leveling. My concern about this kit and others like it consists of bulbs and ballast only (no self-leveling ). From what I've read is that they can flash or blind on coming traffic when going over bumps or hills which can be unsafe. Has anyone experienced this?

Thanks GoldenWarrior1. I tried that. I didn't have a dowel but I cut a thin strip of wood off a paint stir stick and taped a strip of micro fiber cloth to it and dampened it with PlastX. Unfortunately the yellow spots didn't come off as you predicted. It must be melted into lens. It was worth a try though. My only alternative now is to replace the assembly. I looked on Ebay and there are lots for sale. Around $500. I don't think its worth replacing at that price considering its really only a cosmetic problem. But I will keep looking around. Might attend some swap meets in the summer. Thanks again. C.

The driver side headlamp (the part inside the assembly) has a small yellow spot just in front of the bulb. The bulb still works. It just looks unsightly. I would like to clean off the spot if only for aesthetic purposes. How do I dismantle the assembly? I took the headlight assembly off the car. Now, I need to separate the black casing from the clear plastic cover to get inside the headlight. There two screws on one side of the casing and three plastic snaps on the other side but they only keep the rubber seal in place. But I can't see how else the assembly is kept in together. Help!

Have 70k miles (116k km) on my 99 996. This is an early model as it was built in February 1998. Bought the car last year. This summer I tried going from 6th to 3rd doing about 55mph to pass some cars. I never do this but wanted to try it, big mistake! I think this caused a broken valve because 3 miles later the engine lost power. It was a broken valve. The engine was rebuilt by a Porsche dealer. It was found that the RMS and IMS were fine but I upgraded them just in case, the oil separator was beginning to fail and there was a lot of carbon buildup. The engine runs like new now. So I should be good for another 100k. See my blog on 'engine failure'.

The work is now done. And the car runs beautifully. It cost about 4 grand in parts which included a new flywheel and clutch for about 2 grand. The other parts included a new RMS bearing and IMS upgrade, although the old one were fine it was done as a precaution as they are know to fail, an oil evaporator-separator as the diaphragm as beginning to leak which causes oil to leak and burn through the exhaust, ignition coils as they were cracked, spark plugs, camshaft brake sets, finally two valves along with parts such guides, lifters, seals, gaskets and fluids. This took 50 hours in labor but it included 7 hours to remove 5 broken exhaust header bolts, along with removing the transmission and engine, removing the heads and rebuilding them, de-coking the pistons and heads and re-seating the valves, checking everything and replacing parts as needed (see above), replace flywheel and clutch bolts as incorrect bolts were previously fitted (the clutch had been replaced before but not at a Porsche dealer) and finally putting everything back. I am glad I took it to Mark Motors in Ottawa as they were very professional. The work includes a two year warranty on parts and one year on labor. Thanks again Terry for all the work. Oh, btw in the garage was another engine that had been sitting on a cradle ever since I brought my car in. I was told that it had more serious problem than mine and that the owner had first taken it to another place for repairs but they couldn't get it going again after spending thousands trying to repair it. Terry was going to tackle it next.

Hi, The work on my is progressing. Although slower than I would like. But the dealership is in the mist of expanding so I am being patient. He has done about half the work. He has spent about 20 hours so far. So I expect another 20 or so to finish the job. I was there for an update and took a picture of one side of the block after it was de-coked.

I would echo that. They are a first class organization. Have you talked to Jason at AutoImport here in Ottawa? They might be able to do it as well. I saw the chains at the bottom of the case. They had a white paint mark on them. I asked him about it and he said it was to mark the position. I'm guessing he must of slipped the cam shafts off .

Thanks for all the replies. Thanks for warnings and the references. It's good to know there are some good Porsche mechanics not too far away. I have full confidence in Mark Motors and Terri the senior mechanic. Terri has been around almost as long as the dealership. He has ordered about $4,000 in parts, including the flywheel and clutch ($1,500 and $900 respectively). He did mention, as an aside, that all the springs could be replaced. He knows I'm on a budget. I decided not to do that as I think that it was an isolated incident. The chain guides are grooved and will be replaced. Yes, the cam chains have been removed and are not in the pic. I suspect it will take about 50 to 70 hours do the work. I will post tha actual time when I get the car back.

Hi, I own a 1999 Porsche 911 coupe C2 w 6 speed transmissions. It has 70k miles. I bought the car last November 2009. Previously the car was leased. I had an inspection done at a Porsche dealer before buying it. I few weeks ago, I was driving on the highway and the check engine light came on followed by power loss. I pulled over right away and turned the engine off. I then had it towed to a Porsche dealer. They took the transmissions out and told me there was no RMS or IMS problem. Then they did a leak down test and found leakage. Then they took the engine out and took the heads off and saw that a valve was bent. This was due to broken valve spring. At first they thought I had missed a shift but the computer showed that there was a range 1 over rev. 50 hours ago. I believe this happened when I was on a DE day. I was told to keep it in 3rd gear for the first few laps and I hit the rev. limiter once or twice going about 100mph. My question is how much labor can I expect to be charged for doing this partial rebuild? By the way a rebuild factory engine is $18,000 these days so I am going ahead with the repair. I see that Motor Meister sells rebuilt engines for $6,000 plus shipping and putting the engine back in the car will probably cost me more than the repair. This is the work I expect to be done: remove transmission and engine (done), remove heads (done), replace one spring and one valve, re-seat the valves, remove carbon build-up. There is quite a bit and I believe I have been burning it off with my spirited driving as some of it is flaking off, upgrade the IMS, replace alternator belt, replace oil diaphragm (minor leaking), replace flywheel and clutch. Flywheel is sunk in and dual mass has to much play. Clutch is worn down to almost the rivets, put the engine back together, put back in the car and replace all fluids.