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Everything posted by iamtheari

  1. I was tempted to remove the bolts and put it in gear but thought better of it. I would worry that loosened bolts with forces applied by the rotating drive shaft would damage their threads in the differential flange.
  2. I foolishly did not try turning it between chisel sessions. That's a very good idea, thanks! I gave up when the chisel didn't get any purchase at all on the bottom side I was able to reach (about 45-60 degrees around the shaft). It'll be December before I have another weekend free to look at it but now I know what to try next.
  3. In my case, I had to give up because the rear flange would not separate even the tiniest bit from the differential even when I applied a hammer or cold chisel. It appears that the road salts in the car's previous state of residence have effectively welded these parts together. Fortunately, it seems that the vibration I had diagnosed as cardan shaft bearing issues is no longer there, so I am going to hold onto the new shaft in case it comes back someday, and then get out the air chisel to remove the old shaft.
  4. Do they salt the roads in Ohio? That's where the previous owner drove the vehicle prior to my recent acquisition. When I pry at that point, the protective cover comes off easily but the shaft itself does not come out of the flange. A corrosion weld is a definite possibility based on what I can see on the new shaft and the freedom of movement of the shaft fore and aft while the end piece remains stuck to the flange. I couldn't reach a hammer into the space available very well, so I used a wood block against the shaft and hammered that the best I could under the car. I also tried a chisel to gain a foothold between the shaft and the flange in the space marked, but to no avail. It does seem like there must be a magical angle or location to tap with a hammer and release it all based on others' experiences as compared to my own.
  5. Can you be more specific about how you pushed the shaft forward and where you applied the pry bar? I pried as hard as I could forward on the shaft with a 32mm wrench to no avail and I tried a cold chisel to separate the shaft from the differential flange but couldn't get any movement there, either. Some people have mentioned using an air chisel, which I want to avoid if I can. Most people agree that being gentle will get the job done, so I want to be gentle if I can. I've found with Porsches that there is often a magic place or angle to apply gentle force so I really appreciate tips on finding it for this one.
  6. Thanks for posting this DIY. Unfortunately, I am having a lot of trouble prying either end of the shaft loose. When I pry at the front, it's like the flex disc, shaft flange, and transfer case flange have all fused together and will not let go. When I pry at the rear, the metal cover moves just fine but nothing else does. The shaft itself moves a bit fore and aft, but my new shaft also moves relative to the metal piece that sticks into the rear differential so that doesn't help much. I don't see how I can get leverage against the part of the shaft that needs to be moved. Is there a trick? Hope someone can write back soon. I have about an hour of daylight and then it will start getting cold, and unfortunately my Cayenne is blocking my exit for my 911 so I am stranded home until it's back on the road. All advice welcome! Thanks!
  7. Hey, everyone. I'm looking at buy a 996 Turbo (still, I know...getting closer on this one!) and apparently the hydraulic rear wing is not playing nice. I know that this is a common problem, which is why I thought to ask about it, but I am wondering what my options are other than just leaving it down with the fuse out for the life of the car. I've done some research and it looks like up to $1,300 in parts to replace the entire system enough for it to definitely work again. But what options does everyone recommend for fixed wings? I don't want to spend $7,000 on a body kit or anything, but if there are some elegant, safe, and ultimately not-just-for-looks options at reasonable prices I'm all ears. Thanks!
  8. Simply put, I presently can't afford a CPO Turbo. It's about a $15,000 premium over what I have seen on the non-certified used market. Unfortunately, I now know pretty much exactly what car I want, and won't settle for less. :thankyou:
  9. For those of you replacing the Cassette/Nav system (honestly, what was the rationale behind offering a navigation system with a tape deck?), I am looking at a 996 that has that option and am curious if you've found any fit problems getting an aftermarket head unit in place. It sounds like you just drop in a double-DIN unit and you're set as far as fit goes, but are there any gotchas a guy should be aware of?
  10. An older 911 just has so much appeal to me. It's cute, quirky, and fun. Unless I can snag a 356 roadster to fill that role even more. But for now, one P-car in the garage is more than enough, especially if I land the Turbo.
  11. You're not likely to scare me off, actually. The 996TT looks like it might just be the single best value in a Porsche for year-round use. Reliability that beats the normally-aspirated 996, price point that beats 964 Turbo and 993 Turbo, performance that beats anything but a 997 Turbo, all-wheel-drive and creature comforts that beat all prior cars, maintenance costs that beat all prior Turbos, etc. I think it may just be the car for me. I am chasing a beautiful one now and have a PPI set up for next week, done by a dealership so I assume they know to look for radiator leaks, broken front splitter, over-rev history, damage near jacking points, and other common issues. If I don't get this one, based on the last guitar I bought (which took a little over 2 years and purchases of another great guitar, two amplifiers, and at least $5,000 in other gear between the time I missed a deal on the model I didn't realize I was after and the time I got the deal I wanted), I will probably be chasing Turbos for the next five years or more. And that's okay - no sense buying a second-rate version of my dream car. Meanwhile, I am going to help a friend put a stereo in his 944 this evening and will grab his latest Excellence Magazine to read the article wvicary mentioned above. I already reviewed the links pierre posted this morning. Good information all around, and very appreciated. Thank you. I'm excited to join your elite club. Then I just need to get an older 911 as a summer/Sunday driver, right?
  12. What kind of all-weather tires do you run? I priced out (from tirerack.com) a set of Sport Edition Cup 4 wheels with Pirelli snow tires and threw in a tire storage rack and the total came to $1,457 even. That's 17x7.5 and 17x9 wheels with 205/50R17 and 255/40R17 tires. But all-weather tires that work well in the weather you describe would probably be better for me, as 5 days a week in the winter we have relatively clear streets in town, just some packed snow and icy patches depending on whether it's deep winter or spring, and dry pavement on the highways.
  13. In my foolhardy search for the "perfect" 911 for me, I have come across the knowledge that the Turbo engine lacks some of the common problems of the M96 engine. It also compares favorably in terms of cost to insure and probably in terms of maintenance, as far as I can tell. Are there some different issues I should look at with the Turbo than I have been in shopping for normally aspirated 996's? I mean, other than fulfillment of a boyhood dream of owning a Porsche 911 Turbo. Thanks in advance!
  14. I've looked into it a little bit. The seats aren't that expensive. Here's a pair for $500 on eBay: http://tinyurl.com/2c8rekj The problems are finding them in the right color, getting seats that match the electrical system in your car (memory computer, etc.), and figuring out how to get the heaters working - what I haven't learned yet is whether they require a switch or control system in the car or if that's all on the seat and/or something you can add. But I've basically conceded to myself that I will either buy a car with heated seats at the time of purchase or I will live without them.
  15. I had an '85 Targa so I know exactly what you mean regarding never going back to a non-Porsche and your comparison with the Trans Am. I would also never buy a Tiptronic car. I believe that automatic transmissions are a fabulous invention and have come so far that they can, for instance, improve towing capacity of my Chevy pickup versus the same model with a standard transmission. I also believe that they should never be installed in a sports car and that anyone who buys such a car should be flogged repeatedly with a clutch pedal. The question I had about the Tiptronic only relates to my confusion about why the 911 Buyer's Guide would denigrate the reliability of the '02 and newer 996's as compared to the '01 and previous models. I haven't come across any reference to a drop in reliability for '02 other than the Tiptronic issue that the book mentioned and would like to know if I am missing something. I am narrowing down features and prices, for sure, though. One thing I haven't decided yet is whether to consider a Cabriolet with the removable hard top. How well those tops seal to the car and windows and how well they are insulated are two topics I still need to research to decide that. And obviously it's not a cheap car, but it should also not be a money pit. :)
  16. Here's something I ran across in the Porsche 991 Buyer's Guide. The overall ratings tables have an anomaly that I do not understand. For 1999 Carreras (all four models), reliability is listed as 4.5 (out of 5). For 2000, all models get a 5 rating. In 2001, they maintain the 5 ratings across the board. But in 2002 the ratings on all Carrera models (not the Turbo, GT3, or GT2) drop to 3.5 for reliability. The text indicates that a few early Tiptronic S C4S cars got unreliable transmissions that failed within 50 miles of delivery. But other than that there isn't much on why the reliability rating dropped. Does anyone have some insight into this? I like that the 2002 cars got a bigger engine and other upgrades, including I believe some that enhance safety.
  17. I could probably live with a C2, but it happens often enough here that you will pull up to a light or other place you have to come to a complete stop and you end up with both rear tires on ice. This is particularly nasty when you are pointed up a hill, as you can spin out and even slide backwards into traffic if you are unlucky. All-wheel drive alleviates (doesn't eliminate, but nearly so) that, in my experience. There are definitely enough C4 cars moving through the market in the USA that I shouldn't have trouble finding one if I am patient. I even found an '02 C4S that is on the edge of my price range...I hope that guy writes back!
  18. Regina, indeed. I'm in western North Dakota and dated a girl from Regina a few years back. I got snowed in at a McDonald's parking lot in Regina the second week of June one year. If you crazy guys can drive your C4's year-round, so can I. :)
  19. I should ask this: What tires do y'all recommend for winter driving? I may as well shop around and include a set of those plus wheels in my budget.
  20. I should clarify that I am not going to drive it in deep snow or when the streets are glare ice. I have a four-wheel-drive full-size pickup for that. In the past, before I got the truck, I had a 1996 Pontiac Trans Am as my only enclosed transportation (while I know people who have ridden their motorcycles 12 months of the year up here, I am not quite that nuts), and survived okay in the winter other than when clearance was an issue. Traction control and smart driving (with a lifetime of experience driving on severely low-traction roads) go a long way. The all-wheel-drive is just one more thing to increase peace of mind when there are patches of ice or when starting out at an icy stoplight and hoping to get through the intersection before the light changes on you. Side note: Ice isn't even slippery at the temperatures we get down to in the winter. At -30F the surface doesn't melt fast enough from a car's weight to be a problem. I've always said that 30 above causes more wrecks than 30 below. I am looking mostly at Type 996 C4 cars, not the C4S as the cost/benefit on adding the S doesn't seem to work out for me. I did test drive a C4 Cab this past weekend but it doesn't have the removable hard top so I think I have to pass on it. And I loved it. :) It does sound like the 996 would be a better bet for me just because of creature comforts such as a good heater and available heated seats (I haven't found any 993's with heated seats, which tells me they probably just aren't available at all; I don't mind modding the car or replacing parts of it at all, so long as it's a reasonable possibility). So maybe I should start getting more serious about the 996's I see and let the 993 C4S owner know the bad news...even if I do like the way it looks better.
  21. I'm still trying to decide between a 993 (I like the look better and the air-cooled Porsches are just cool cars; plus it comes at the end of the era so all the problems were mostly worked out by then) and a 996 (I like the interior a lot more, plus many were sold with heated seats; it also apparently costs a little less to keep running unless the engine blows up on you) ... and one thing I can't find a lot of information on is how they compare in severely cold weather. I am not buying a summer-only car. I am sticking with Coupes (or at least Cabriolets that have the optional hard top) and exclusively to C4 models so I don't have to worry about hitting a small patch of ice on the road. The heated seats would be nice in the cold winters, but my current vehicle lacks that feature so it's not a deal-breaker for me. Our winters are severely cold. In fact, there is no place I know of that gets both hotter and colder than here. Temperatures over 100F in the summer are common and over 110F is possible. But in the winter, ambient temperatures (not including the wind chill) of -30F are common and -50F is a real possibility. The general response to that is to buy a car with a plug-in block heater and keep it plugged in whenever you are not driving it. I am not aware of whether such a device is available for the P-cars and would definitely love to hear from anyone who knows of one. But regardless of that, the question is this: If you needed a car that would fire up and run in temperatures down to -30F or so, would you prefer a 993 or a 996? My shopping is getting more directed and specific but this is a major outstanding issue. Thanks!
  22. I have nationwide searches running on AutoTrader.com and occasionally look at cars on eBay but the time crunch of bidding is too fast-paced for me on a five-digit purchase price. I can handle bidding $2,500 on a guitar that I've been shopping for longer than two years, but I didn't have to fly across the country and drive the guitar home hoping it doesn't blow up on the way. Excellence Magazine looks like a decent resource that I will add to my arsenal. I did find a shop that does PPIs in the city where I found a 993 I like, but I will wait until I have the maintenance records in hand to review before hiring that done. Of course, the heated seats, cup holders, and generally more modern stylings of the 996 are going to throw a monkey wrench in my brain on deciding between these two excellent eras of the 911. I'll be test-driving a 996 C4 Cabriolet in the near future and see how it fits me. My only basis for comparison is that old 1985 Targa, or American muscle of various eras and brands, so I'm kind of curious how the 996 really feels. Pretty excited about that!
  23. Here's a thread elsewhere that I found with a little Googling, which seems relevant to your issue. Hope it helps: http://tech.bentleypublishers.com/thread.jspa?messageID=317969 Long story short: The alarm will just think the radio was stolen but sounds like it works fine otherwise, and you can remedy that by grounding (or ungrounding; experiment to find out I guess) a particular wire.
  24. Hermann: Thanks for the pointers. I have the 2nd edition of Mr. Leffingwell's excellent book and it's been a great help in identifying things to look for. My personal view on Porsches is that the only way to go is a 911 with a manual transmission (unless you can afford a new model with PDK, I suppose - I cannot). I grew up driving stick (started on a 1948 Willys Jeep with no 2nd-1st synchro, grain trucks, farm tractors, pickups, then a 1985 Carrera Targa, and later a 1996 Pontiac Trans Am with a six-speed) and don't mind them in town. Keep in mind that I live in a smaller city, but commuted daily without trouble in Phoenix with my Trans Am until an electrical fire took it from me almost 7 years ago. I definitely want an everyday driver and for my half-ton 4x4 pickup to be relegated to days with fresh snow or when I have to haul something. To that end, I have been focusing on C4 models that I can confidently drive even if there might be a patch of ice on the way to work. The 996's heated seats are very tempting but I don't want to rule out the 993 even though it can be a maintenance hassle (wheel-off oil changes, for instance), as a couple have come up in my price range. Similarly, I don't need a cabriolet simply because I already have a boxer-engine motorcycle (although the cabriolet wouldn't see me in a helmet every mile as I choose to stick to on the bike). The single hardest part of my shopping process is my isolation. The geographically nearest 911 for sale is 450 miles away and they're asking $5,000 more than my limit for a 996 that may or may not need $3,000 in parts before I trust it (IMS retrofit from LN Engineering plus there's no sense dropping the transmission and not putting in a new clutch and flywheel). I haven't found a 993 for sale within 1,000 miles. And flights out of here to anywhere other than Vegas or Phoenix are pricey and I would rather have the $800 for a plane ticket available to spend on a tune-up. But I'm still going to test-drive any car that I run across an opportunity to and try to keep a wishlist of the cars on the market that are what I'm after, then make a checklist of what to worry about on each one based on my online research and the 911 Buyer's Guide, and then figure out the travel budget and PPI cost on each one before running out to buy one. On that note, is there any kind of online reference for good/recommended PPI technicians or shops around the USA?
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