number9ine

Car wash soap will get it out just fine. To avoid lint transfer, I use a microfiber wash mitt on the top. Once you've scrubbed the spot away, rinse it and you should be set. I'd wash the rest of the top with the car wash soap too, with a little pressurized water to rinse clean. Porsche makes a convertible top protectant that will keep future "bird bombs" from baking in.

I'm interested in this. Sorry to ask but is there way for you to lookup what was replaced (part number or text description)? I'm guessing it must the alt to starter cable that is flakey. The battery to body + starter must be good otherwise the booster wouldn't work. But a low current handling connection from alt would lead to an undercharged battery. Thanks in advance. There was a previous topic on this. Apparently the part corrodes and causes slow cranking: http://www.renntech....ranking-normal/ No quoted part number, but it should be easy to explain at the parts counter. If you have a Tip it'll be a lot of labor, supposedly it's easy with a manual. Mine cranks a little slow sometimes, I'm going to get under there some weekend and have a look. Mark

iPod connection, you say? Do you know what type you have? The only MOST-compatible options for PCM 2.1 were aftermarket, so it's entirely possible that unit is throwing a wrench in the works. Everything else (including the OEM Porsche connection) are based on an FM modulator. All the MOST (fiber-optic) iPod solutions essentially emulate a CD changer, and therefore have to take the changer's specific place in the MOST loop order. If the unit was installed outside of this order it may cause issues.

The part number I quoted is for a six-speed, so if you have a base Boxster it will not work. The 987 base has a 5-speed box, and the stock part is likely a shorter throw than yours. It should work just fine with your car. Mark I installed the 997 short shifter on my '01 Boxster with 5 speed shortly after the 997 came out and it has worked fine ever since, see here for details and pictures. The 996 and 997 OEM short shifters are different products. The 996 short shifter was a rebranded B&M shifter in a shifter housing; the 997 short shifter is a Porsche manufactured product and works smoother. I believe the shifters with housings are fully interchangeable between the 9x6 and 9x7 model lines I stand corrected! Thanks for the great info. Funny, I think I read that post awhile ago and it never occurred to me that you were swapping in the 6-speed part in a 5-speed car. :)

It should be able to give disk back... That eject button - does it light up when you turn car`s ignition on? Check if unit gets power, then check if optical ring is intact - good way would be to disconnect optical cable from DVD unit and attach bypass loop to it so this way you can check if PCM will tell it broken or not. All you can do without tools is probably to make sure unit gets power, for rest you may need to surrender to your dealer and this is not a warranty work. 'actual' line should have nimber like 00179606/3306 or something like that and not be blank. NAV error upon PCM startup usually signifies that optical ring is broken - disconnect battery, then disconnect optical cable from DVD then connect back battery, trn on PCM and see what errors it gives out, then disconnect negative wire from battery again, connect everything back to DVD unit, connect back and turn PCM on and compare errors - if they are same then it is optical ring. Check that optical wire. May be it simply got disconnected from DVD. would also worth to check connection behind PCM but it is not easy to reach. +1 on all of this. It may be easier to troubleshoot if you remove the plastic cover altogether, it's just a few hex screws and will give you un-fettered access to the back of the DVD unit. The optical ring utkinpol refers to are the orange fiber-optic cables, there will be two of them coming from your unit. does the car have Bose or a CD Changer? If you have either or both and the MOST loop (optical ring) is compromised, they'll all exhibit problems of some sort. Do other functions on your radio work at ths time?

Look for the "PSM OFF" button on your center console. I've never heard of this causing the transmission to start off in first, but I'd want to leave the PSM on while piloting my 5000+ lb. SUV down the road. All modern automatic transmissions (and, incidentally, all recent dual-clutch variants like PDK and DSG) are programmed to start off in second gear for comfort unless it's a cold start. The slip action of the torque converter allows second gear to be used in most stoplight situations and on some hills without damage or lack of torque. The dual-clutch boxes slip their wet clutches to approximate the same behavior. If you engage manual or kickdown mode with the tip switch, shifter or your throttle, the car will start in first without complaint. Doing the same in a manual transmission might burn a clutch, which is why it's best to start in first gear if you drive stick. Mark

The part number I quoted is for a six-speed, so if you have a base Boxster it will not work. The 987 base has a 5-speed box, and the stock part is likely a shorter throw than yours. It should work just fine with your car. Mark

Good question I don't know but maybe Mark does? However what I do know is that I can share some stats tomorrow about what changed. I'll do a run this evening with the tubi on and another one tomorrow and share the difference. Will be measured with the DriftBox which is fairly accurate. A "reasonable gain" is highly subjective. I was expressing my opinion, and my statement on power gain is based on anecdotal evidence here and elsewhere about performance exhausts on these cars. Loren sums it up nicely in his blog post, Product claims and dynos -- and reality. I think we can agree that even the most optimistic mfr. claims of HP from an exhaust are relatively insignificant in a 400+hp car, and the implied guarantee of Porsche engineering is diminished by aftermarket kit. Isn't that one of the major reasons we buy these cars in the first place? Again, just my opinion, but I find the idea of spending time and money to strip out the interior and install sound-deadening to be a waste when the problem can be solved by re-installing the stock exhaust. I guess it boils down to how much you love the sound and/or the look of your Tubi, since we lack sufficient data to measure its performance. I love the sound of a mean exhaust where it's functional--a racecar with straight pipes, for example--but adding sound for the sake of sound alone is of little value to me. Please let us know if and how you eliminate your drone so others here can benefit. Mark

I don't need to get rid of it completely just damp it a little. Do noise barrier and damper material not help in this case? I was thinking on putting some in the area behind the rear seats and below the rear window. There's already a fair amount of sound insulation in those areas, especially for a sports car. Instead of tearing out your interior and installing Dynamat on everything I'd go back to OEM. Not to editorialize, but what sounds cool to you on-throttle in your cabin may disturb the rest of us outside, and at part throttle disturbs you. Seems like a lose-lose to me for an expensive part that doesn't realize any real power gain. To each their own however. If you find a solution, please share. Mark

Again, I wouldn't trust the original shop to correct the problem. Body shop techs might try the same technique they use on repainted cars--heavy-grit sanding and buffing--to remove the overspray, and I'd hate to see them use a similar technique on OEM paint. The results could be disastrous, especially if they don't own a paint meter. Your story makes me think that the shop isn't likely to care much about the little details, and I'd hate to see you come back here with horror stories about burnt paint and other collateral damage. I assume you washed the car to ensure that whatever it is doesn't just come off, to refute the body shop's suggestion? I'd insist on taking your business elsewhere (again, find a recommendation for a professional detailer in your area) and let USAA sort it with the original shop. That way you're made whole on your terms, with little risk of collateral damage to your paint. Mark

Always do least invasive first, which in this case is claybar. If that doesn't do the trick a paint correction may be in order. A qualified detail shop could take care of this for you. I'd document the overspray with photos as best as you can, write a letter to the body shop expressing your dissatisfaction and ask them to cover the cost of the paint correction. If they didn't bother to remove your bumper to paint it (or left your car near something else being sprayed) then I wouldn't trust them to correct the problem themselves. Mark

Wow. Now I don't feel so peeved about my $300 "driver responsibility fee" levied by the great state of New York. I "failed to obey [a] traffic device" three times in 18 months, so the DMV wins the pool. Enjoy your time off... Mark

If you want to take it a notch further, the factory 997 sport shifter (997.424.983.00 I believe) is incredible. It came on my car and it's just awesome. I don't know how it compares to aftermarket like B&M, but I'll never have a P-car without it again. :) Mark

For the first replacement, it's not unheard of on any car to have a waterpump go at 80k. On the second replacement, it sounds like you got a poorly-made or poorly-remanufactured unit. Is it OEM? Do you frequently experience high water temps (above 190 deg. F) when driving? Your car would have to sit for a very long time to allow the sealant to leak from the waterpump, and I'd suggest that many other things would quit before that. I certainly don't think that sitting would cause the bearings to pack up after 10k miles. I'd insist on an OEM pump being installed, and if it fails again take your business elsewhere. Mark

If there are no fault codes, then your ECU considers the sensors to be within range. I don't know whether or not you're on the cusp of values that would indicate the sensors are faulty. Keep in mind that the O2 sensors are there to find faults with what's happening upstream, and their values might not indicate a bad sensor but a symptom of something else gone wrong. Are you up-to-date on your maintenance (oil, plugs, filters, etc.)? Do you have any aftermarket parts on the drivetrain? Are you using the minimum octane recommended in your owner's manual? Are you calculating your gas mileage at each fill-up or via your OBC? If both, do they correlate? Are you running aftermarket wheels and/or tires in a size different from the 17" or 18" OEM sets? Please let us know if your Durametric is finding any fault codes. Mark

Do you have the stock cats and headers to replace and test with? This would be my first troubleshooting step. If the stock system still hesitates you know it's not your add-ons. Has the ECU been remapped? Is the behavior recent or chronic?

Sorry for your misfortune. I believe the 50th's engine has the same internals as a regular Boxster S of same vintage, so that should open up some options for you. There are a few engine builders on this board who might chime in on a good source for the motor. Have you priced one with Porsche?

+1 on this. Waaaaaaayyyyy too much. I'd buy a nice lightly used set, or go through Wheel Enhancement. To OP - at least you can acknowledge that the 19s on these cars are ALL about the looks. With 18s you can get the same amount of contact patch, better ride quality, and no less performance on track if you decide to go there. Hell, with less unsprung weight you may realize a performance gain. For my money I'd skip the fashion statement and enjoy what you got. My 997S came with 19s OEM and I hate the ride and extra tire cost. If not, I voted for the Lobsters. They're the lightest option in your list, and handsomest on the Boxster in my opinion.

Agreed, tried that angle. According to them, PCNA will do nothing for me since I'm not the original owner. To be fair, they gave me about 30% off the cost as a goodwill gesture though. If you bought your car recently it may have the revised CPO, which the dealer informed me does cover the part. Sadly, my CPO does not. Thanks all for the suggestions, but I'll take my lumps on this one. Now, if a part behind the rear wheels goes "pop" I'll expect PCNA to cover that without complaint. :)

Interesting... there's a TSB but no recall according to Danbury. The part was relatively cheap for P-car, $65.00. If you get a recall notice please PM me.

Heard from the dealer... they identified the problem immediately, so I'd guess they see a few of these. Not covered under my CPO, but they're giving me a deal on the labor. I guess that's the last time I go polishing my headlamps without a ground!

Close! Danbury Porsche. Been to New Country though. Let's see if they can recognize a known problem and fix it without any fuss. The skeptic in me isn't confident.

That is a gorgeous car. Why do you envy your wife's porch? :D

I had the same exact thing happen to my 997 today. I was polishing bugs off the headlamp with some plastX, and heard a "pop" noise from the trunk release area but no open trunk. Uh-oh... I had read this thread last week, so I immediately knew what happened. Started the car and got the "workshop" error with awesome lightning bolt graphic, and the parking lights and dashboard lights lit up despite the switch in the OFF position. No other issues, drove to the dealer and we'll see what happens. Mark

The car is definitely has a GT3 engine, and coupled with the other GT3 bits (interior, cluster, bodykit, etc) it would be a cost-prohibitive conversion from a regular C2. I think it's a GT3, no question. I haven't seen the Carfax, but maybe the in-service date makes it a press car? This car was someone's track *****. Grey seats in a black interior, missing PCCB, and probably a front-end repaint as the options sticker isn't under the hood. I'd say it's a nice price for someone looking to track the car as long as the title is clear and there aren't any true horror stories. I'd lose the "Carrera" script, get some real GT3 seats, and drive the ***** out of it. Mark