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number9ine

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Everything posted by number9ine

  1. number9ine
    I have an '05 too. Porsche managed to make a terrific first-year car with relatively few issues, a challenge for any carmaker. But with reports floating around these boards of M96/M97 IMS failures, it's a depressing thought to spend $20k for a new motor in a low-mileage "premium" car. Since this is a go-to place for technical problems, you're likely to hear from most of the owners with an engine failure and internet connection. You're also likely not to hear from the people out there driving their cars trouble-free (unless they're asking about bodykits and carbon fiber bits for their dashboard... :D ) With conflicting claims of denied warranty claims and out-of-warranty grace on Porsche's part, it makes people anxious. What if? Sometimes you eat the bear, sometimes the bear eats you. Enjoy the car and don't worry so much about what may come, and avail yourself of resources (your warranty, PCNA, etc.) if things go bad. Of course, Murphy's law means I'll drive home and hear my bearing fail. Cross your fingers for me. :)
  2. number9ine
    Here's a thought--when they R/R the engine they disconnect the battery. Per the owner's manual, after the battery has been disconnected the window must be re-seated and its position saved so that it operates properly. Perhaps when they did this, the window stopped slightly below where it used to, making for a poorer seal? I suppose you could disconnect your battery and refer to your owner's manual to see if it helps. Mark
  3. number9ine
    I'm not sure about the Cayenne, but your 996 pads are an easy change. Look for any issues on your rotors, such as cracking or excessive wear that may require replacement. If you've bled the brakes in the past two years (and you don't track your car), you're within the service period for your fluid so don't worry about it. If you're experiencing squeaking and your brake wear light isn't on, you should replace the dampers. If it's just pads, get some channel locks and a rag, then grip the existing pad to push in the pistons. pull the old pad out, slide in the new pad, simple as that. Porsche would suggest replacing the retainer kit (clip and bolt), but you don't need to do so unless the clip is worn in some way. If you ever track your car, chances are you'll be replacing pads fast enough that brake wear sensors will be a costly annoyance (ask how I know!). You may want to jumper them so the light stays off, and visually check your pads on a regular basis instead. Get a floor jack that will lift 5000 lbs, and some jack stands. The jacking points are in your owner's manual, and are easy to spot. Best of luck, Mark
  4. number9ine
    Find a new place to live! :D Seriously though, B and C--I'd use a car cover. A decent one will set you back about $250-300; the more you spend the better it breathes and keeps moisture from building. After rainstorms you should remove it carefully and shake it out to make sure the cover doesn't cling to your paint and cause fine scratches. If you wash your car regularly and use the cover, you should have no problem from birds, sap, dust, etc. Don't get a cover that says anything on it. A big Porsche logo screenprint is an excuse for some idiot to key your car or ding it. Try to find a cover with a window for your license plate, or flip it over the bumperettes in the back. Depending on where you live you could get a ticket or nastygram from apt. management if your plate is hidden. And be careful with the cover on the exhaust tips! Keep it away from them if they're hot. Mark
  5. number9ine
    Beautiful car. Most would find me odd for saying it, I'm a bit jealous of your rear wiper. Enjoy it!
  6. number9ine
    Welcome! Show us your new car!
  7. number9ine
    The lubricant helps by creating a better seal between the rubber surround on the mirror mount and the inner door seal. If this seal is dried or has wax residue, etc. on it it will shrink and not seal as well, inviting the vacuum you create when opening your roof to pull air between the seals and create the noise you're looking to get rid of. Painter's tape will probably not help you, since the air will simply be channeled around the tape and if you're taping a seal, you're eliminating its ability to form a friction bond. Mark Hi Mark, I placed the painters tape on the outside of the mirror seals and seams and around all the window seams etc, not on the seals themselves, but unfortunately nothing helped. I had the same issue on our 08 BMW and after many many trips to the dealer replacing the entire door seal was the only thing that helped. That could be the case here too, but I'd start with the lube, then replacing the seal around the mirror mount, and then as a last resort the door seal. Another idea--try sticking a piece of thick weatherstripping foam from HD or Lowe's on/around the mirror triangle, then close the door on it and go for a drive. It'll at least help confirm for you whether or not the whistling noise is coming from the mount area or somewhere else.
  8. number9ine
    I don't think your cable will be frayed, and you cannot replace the cable without replacing the regulator. I think that it will either a) have become dislodged from its mounting points at the top of the regulator, where it's secured by a plastic grommet that can break or b)will be tangled on the spool in the motor assembly. These are the two most common failures. The noise you hear isn't a frayed cable, just the cable itself bouncing off the lower window edge, which will make a clacking and grinding noise. To see either of these you need to remove the regulator. For a), you may be able to repair or re-set the grommet but you then run the risk of it breaking again. For B), get a new regulator. Mark
  9. number9ine
    The lubricant helps by creating a better seal between the rubber surround on the mirror mount and the inner door seal. If this seal is dried or has wax residue, etc. on it it will shrink and not seal as well, inviting the vacuum you create when opening your roof to pull air between the seals and create the noise you're looking to get rid of. Painter's tape will probably not help you, since the air will simply be channeled around the tape and if you're taping a seal, you're eliminating its ability to form a friction bond. Mark
  10. number9ine
    One or more of the cables is probably disconnected from its mounting point on the regulator and hitting the window as it goes down. The regulator is an integrated unit. It may be possible to repair, but you'll probably need to remove it to examine it. Mark
  11. number9ine
    My driver window was broken and replaced; the replacement was misaligned and caused terrible wind noise. I had it adjusted and it did better, but I need to adjust again as there's still a slight whistle. The misalignment caused the very top of the seal around the mirror mounting to tear where it meets the window. I plan on replacing mine; I tried taping over the tear and it almost eliminated the whistle. I'd check yours. If that doesn't work, get some seal lubricant and go to town on the door seals.
  12. number9ine
    You may try searching on manual operation of the top to see how the mechanism works in that mode. It could help you determine the cause of the problem, and at the very least it'll give you a closed top. Mark EDIT: Whoops, didn't realize you tried some sort of manual operation already, but my advice above still may be useful. Good luck!
  13. number9ine
    Good luck plugging holes! Mice are tough little buggers and will find a way inside. Better off to chase them away with rodent-repelling techniques of some kind. Other than my cat, I haven't found an effective one yet. :)
  14. number9ine
    67k! Driving like it's meant to be driven. :)
  15. number9ine
    A synthetic chamois isn't terrible for drying a car, so long as you don't have hard water and you wash thoroughly. If it's 10 years old it's time to buy a new one, regardless. :) ScratchX won't do anything but lay on filler without a lot of application and elbow grease. Get a real compound, it's easy to find them at the store. 3M rubbing compound is one that's widely available. Try a small spot, and if it works do the rest.
  16. number9ine
    I had this problem on my Passat's power seat, and a few light taps on the side with a hammer brought it back to life. I think it was binding because the lube is drying on the drive mechanism the motor attaches to. I'll get in there some Saturday to service it properly.
  17. number9ine
    Try a light compound on a rough spot and see if it smooths it out. Clay can pick up contaminants pretty well, but some hard-bonded stuff won't come loose so you have to rub it away. I had this problem with a tree near a house I used to live in, it would seasonally spray my car with sap that was a pain to get off.
  18. number9ine
    With sufficient time and money anything's possible, but I'd bet that this retrofit would be too expensive to be worth it.
  19. number9ine
    There's a company (companies?) out there providing a kit for the conversion, which uses some stock 997 parts such as the headlamps, signal lamps, etc. The bumper skin and fenders must be "hybrid" to meet the 996's trunkline and door cut, which are different than the 997. Those parts are definitely not going to be Porsche stock. I did a quick search on the Googles and found www.prestigebodykits.com, looks like what you'd need.
  20. number9ine
    That sounds ugly. Hopefully I'll find it, will update if I do.
  21. number9ine
    A few weeks ago, I noticed a creaking noise from the back of my car (05 C2S). I'm not sure precisely where or what it is, but it sounds like it's coming from directly under the passenger tail lamp. The sound is a higher-pitched version of what you hear when you walk on an old floorboard. It's not audible under normal driving, but if I hit a bad bump I hear it. I can also push on the rear glass or remove the tail lamp and press there to hear it. I plan on pulling the bumper cover and having a closer look underneath this weekend. In the meantime, If you've seen or heard about something like this before please chime in. Searching here really hasn't gotten me anything close. Thanks! Mark
  22. number9ine
    Two beeps for me was always my center console lid, it didn't latch unless it was closed with authority. That, the trunklids, the glove compartment and the driver/passenger doors all prompt the beep of shame if not closed properly. If you've fixed all of these and still get beeps, time to pull the codes. Mark
  23. number9ine
    I vote on this as well. When you feel that axle tramp and smell the friction material burning off you'll never want to do it again. If that's not convincing, the $1500+ repair bill should nail the coffin shut. You may lose a few tenths but from what I read it takes a practiced foot to drop a clutch and gain time doing so. This, incidentally, is at the top of the list as to why you never, ever want to buy a press car.
  24. number9ine
    Vaseline in the owner's manual? Rosie Palm jokes aside, I need to read mine again.
  25. number9ine
    The difference between your friend's Corvette and your C2 is technology. Your flat six is a pretty unique engine with exotic materials, high compression, and other goodies that extract optimum performance while remaining efficient, reliable, and emissions-friendly. Adding forced induction to the motor costs cubic dollars because of the rare engineering characteristics that need to be accounted for. A Corvette is big displacement and pushrods, technology that's been complimented by widespread aftermarket modifications for decades; Porsche's engines tend to undergo significant changes every product cycle. Getting more Porsche usually means buying another car. Turbos are an exception, since it's relatively easy to re-map for higher boost, but it's always at a cost to reliability and drivability. Good news for you is that Porsches are dirt cheap right now. If you want more car (and are willing to extend your budget a bit) you could feasibly sell yours and get into something newer and meaner. One caveat--any Porsche you get will be engineered for superior handling, less so straight-line performance. Latter-day M3s and STis have comparable horsepower and power-to-weight ratios, so you're playing a numbers game that's tough to win. If you're looking to smoke tires and outrun cars from zero-to-sixty, maybe a Porsche isn't the best tool for the job. Mark
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