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About gfl

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  • Present cars
    2002 Audi S6 Avant
    2000 Audi S4 (will turn into a boxster)
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  1. Thanks for the info. Yes, its an LN. Unless magical mice got in there in the last three years, i pulled to old bearing, bought an LN, and admittedly gave it to the shop since my motor was, at that moment, covered. And the bearing is a) large, b) open with the races of an LN, and c) has the larger threaded shaft of the LN unit, which is why its not in my hand now (need to get the proper thread for the puller before i can remove it). It is most certainly an LN like race and not at all like the OE unit - so i seriously doubt there was a mix-up. (follow up - its out, and it is most certainly an LN, and far deader after 3 years than the original was after 10+ years. The LNE retrofit clearly wore much faster than the original did.) So i KNOW this solution (the LNE ceramic bearing unit) is not a good one. I'm not sure about the DOF, but i'd think that a stream of oil, even mixed with some truly dissolved dirt (not particulate matter) would still be a great improvement. My main point though is that the LN deteriorated very rapidly. track car. 3 years. Roughly 10 events per year. Advanced run groups (flat out to keep up with the faster cars). So an open bearing is not a complete solution, as proven here (unless the shaft is wobbly - we shall see). Grant
  2. Hi Jeff, and thanks for the reply. I'll have the shaft checked. Suggest an easy method? Yes, its an LN. I pulled the old one when I put this motor (junkyard motor) in, bought an LN, (and admittedly gave it to the shop). The unit in there now is a) large, b) has races like an LN, not OE, and c) has the larger shaft and threads of the LN vs OE. (C) is why its not yet n my hand, i need a different thread adapter for the LN puller -- which is intended to remove the OE bearing. In any event, this large, open bearing failed in three years of track use, roughly 10 events per year, advanced run groups where i (admittedly) am always WOT to keep up with the much faster cars (or fail while trying). So this method does NOT do the trick, not always. Not in my case. So, i'm still thinking an oil feed is preferable. We must choose between evils and this evil is clearly very evil. G
  3. JPF wrote: "We have not had any failures after removing the seal, nor have we heard of any.' Well i just pulled apart my track car's motor (mostly stock 3.2 boxster motor). I put an LNE IMS bearing in 3 years ago. Obviously, the LNE has no seals and is open to splash lubrication. It was pretty much gone- very significant wear and play. Might it have lasted another season? Maybe. My conclusion - removing the seals is NOT sufficient, at least for heavily track used cars. I too am leaning toward the DOF, but want to take on board as much info as possible. I see in this post statements that it takes dirty oil, but Pedro's diagram clearly shows it coming from a galley directly after the filter, pump and cooler, which ought to be nearly ideal. Grant
  4. N spec is not about quality, performance level, speed rating or any of those criteria. It is a manufacturer's type approval rating, meanign that Porsche approved it. Nothing more, nothing less. There are many tires with better specs, at higher prices that are not N-rated. of course, there are LOTS of lower quality ones that would nto meet N-specs. But a knowledgeable consumer can figure this out. It costs a lot to have any product type approved, whether its ACEA grading, API grading UL grading, or N rating. Not every manufacturer will submit every tire. Yes, tires are very important. Yes, being cheap is dumb. No, buying N is not required, btu it does provide another indication of its suitability. Grant
  5. OEM pads are good. But mintex is 1/3 -> 1/2 the price. They seem quite good on my Audi. Has anyone used them? I understand they will not hold up to track use, btu for the street? Grant
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