working4it

I am curious too. I might try them when I do my next oil change.

Yes it's fixed. Once I disassembled the shifter I found a magnet loose. The plastic holder was broken. I have no idea how it broke but some epoxy back in place all Better! I didn't think about taking pictures until I was putting everything back together, sorry

Interesting...I don't see it now. I will try re-uploading

My manual doesn't specify what the "emergency stop gap release" is. My guess is something similar to this... console.pdf

wow......I think if you read anything I post I always try to share it openly.... The problem is...the size of the file is too large to post and I don't have adobe professional at home to cut/resave and upload. He seemed like he needed help and I was trying to help. I found this link on Rennlist with the same material I sent ignited... http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforum...-armrest-1.pdf

I installed the curt trailer hitch on my 04 without to many issues... Here is the wiring instructions... http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?app=core&module=search&do=search&fromMainBar=1

Tom, I just posted the "Lights" repair manual to the Documents section. This should help you!

I just sent you a pm on this...

The cayenne requires a power and control module whether or not it's factory or aftermarket. No problem. I used the Curt 3 to 2 Wire Power Converter Module. Amazon has it for $27.99. Curt Part #56146 http://www.amazon.co...25598439&sr=8-4

No problem. I used the Curt 3 to 2 Wire Power Converter Module. Amazon has it for $27.99. Curt Part #56146 http://www.amazon.com/Power-Converter-Module-circuit-protected/dp/B003AT4RHK/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1325598439&sr=8-4

From what I know this will cause a fault code. Check my gallery and search the documents as I have posted instructions for the Curt trailer harness. That being said, my Cayenne is an '04 I found my link....

I agree with everyone else....cardan shaft or differential. I would start by changing the diff's oil as it's easy and relatively inexpensive.

Hmmm....a humming sound..I think wvicary may be right about a wheel balancing issue. I have 100k on mine and started to hear a low growling noise which is indicative of a wearing transfer case so I decided to change everything. Front diff was a dark brown and new is a golden color. Less noise and I could swear I am getting better gas milage.

Check my profile gallery and you will see the difference in old vs. New. The front was very dirty the rear not too bad. I went with Mobil 1 LS 75w90 but like Amsoil and redline

I currently use EBC and prefer them over OEM...at least half the dust and I haven't experienced any squeaking. That being said I think it's personal preference.

Pentosin 11s has now been updated to 202s. Per Pentosin's website and Porsche 11s and 202 are inter-changeable. That being said I would not mix them. Stick with one or the other. I use 11s as that's what was originally in my 04 s. http://www.globalautoparts.biz/pentosin_hydraulic_fluids.html You can get it at Napa or Pelican

I agree with Odix...all of your problems are the "normal" issues with the Pig. I agree that sometimes even I get fed up but I knew what I was getting into, well sort of. The items you describe are not to bad to fix but still a pain in the ***

You didn't say what year? Depending upon year there are two batteries. One located under the driver seat and one in the rear hatch compartment under the sub woofer. Most of the time the driver seat battery goes first as this is the primary and rear is aux and starting. Any 92AH or better battery that fits is suitable. Auto zone carries them for around $135 H8DIG Gold series 8 Year warranty Rayovac SLI93T8. $125 Porsche dealer is $300+install Interstate MTP49/HP $175

It's funny you mentioned that....I did a preliminary look at I did find a dime. Unfortunately, it did solve my issue. I need to completely remove the plastic pieces and check the magnets and a switch.

Well, It does not go into "M" when moved by the shifter.

Good questions...I will double check "M" today and will look at taking off the cover to see what I find...

Okay...so today I went to pull around a semi moved the shifter to M and went to "-" nothing tried moving it back to D and back to M still nothgin. Pushed the selector on the steering wheel everything worked fine. I tried multiple times on the ride home and nothing on the shifter but everything worked fine using the steering wheel controls. Hooked it up when I got home and no codes. I even took the key out let it sit and retried nothing from the shifter.... thoughts?

or Turbo compressor 4,511 cc 4.5 liters V 8 front engine with 93 mm bore, 83 mm stroke, 9.5 compression ratio, double overhead cam, variable valve timing/camshaft and four valves per cylinder Premium unleaded fuel 91 Fuel economy EPA highway (mpg): 18 and EPA city (mpg): 13 Multi-point injection fuel system 26.2 gallon main premium unleaded fuel tank Power: 336 kW , 450 HP SAE @ 6,000 rpm; 460 ft lb , 624 Nm @ 2,250 rpm

I am not sure if you are looking for actual spec numbers or overall... Benefiting from two exhaust gas turbochargers with intercooler, the V8 power unit develops a staggering 450 bhp at 6000 rpm. The foundation for this power is laid by the V8 normal-aspiration engine displacing 4.5 litres, featuring four valves per cylinder, and boasting Porsche’s VarioCam variable intake camshaft system. Since this increase in power on the Cayenne Turbo also means higher loads acting on the engine, the cylinder heads of the Cayenne Turbo are made of special high temperature-resistant aluminium alloy which has already proven its qualities in motorsport. On the intake side the ducts are modified for the higher throughput of fuel/air mixture and double valve springs are featured on the outlet side to ensure an absolutely safe and reliable closing process. Also reflecting the higher engine load, the pistons are forged and are additionally cooled by oil injection jets. Following the same philosophy as on the 911 Turbo, the two exhaust gas turbochargers are in parallel arrangement. Small intake manifolds, short exhaust manifolds and a mixed flow turbine with mass inertia reduced to a minimum ensure a very good response and supreme performance. To increase the temperature of the air entering the turbines in the interest of optimum combustion under full load, the turbine housing is made of high-quality cast steel. The compressed air flowing out of the turbine is then re-cooled to provide a high cylinder charge and reduce the temperature of the system components to a minimum. Intake air flows on subsequently to the two compressors through one air filter housing each for the left- and right-hand row of cylinders. Finally, the compressed air flows on to the E-gas adjuster via two intercoolers positioned respectively in front of the wheel arches left and right. The bypass valves are integrated in the turbine housings, turbocharger pressure being adjusted by controlling the bypass valves through a joint cycle valve masterminded by the engine management system. Maximum turbocharger pressure at full load is approximately 1.6 bar and is reached at a speed of 2250 rpm. Then, as engine speeds increase, boost pressure is cut back and remains at approximately 1.5 bar with the engine running at maximum power (450 bhp at 6000 rpm).

Is it throwing any codes? I agree with wvicary, try to find an indy shop. It seems like they threw in the kitchen sink. Change the transfer/differentials yourself. Very easy and save hundreds of dollars. Differentials take 75w90 (suggest Amsoil, Redline or Mobil 1 LS75w90) Transfer case (Needs to meet the LT71141 spec) Mobil 1 ATF meets this spec aswell as Amsoil,Redline)