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Btw- the main difference i observed was the wing side hinge part , which connects to the actuator. the c4s part is the one i hold with the pliers in the image.
see images attached. the 02 C4 spoiler lifting mechanism on the 04 c4s hood. To me this mechanically a perfect fit....and operates proper. Sure pn’ may be different for the assy , but likely for different reasons ( i could imagine the electrical connections but i believe this can be made compatible as well). However you seem to have decided to do metal work instead. give it a try and i an sure more folks here would love to see the result. For my c4 cab i also still want to change the rear . The strip is still has its appeal to me, but i badly want a big wing (993 rsr or gt2 type) and much wider hips now ( bolt on flares type ). Sounds possibly like a super bad idea, but it is actually an alternative manufacturing technology i am working on for a non-car project , but which may yield some significant shape improvements to my 996 as well.
Good point. I still have this C4s hood assembly like you show (Got that time from wicked motorsports ) , and have not thought about trying this again after switching my car from a C2 coupe to a C4 cab. I can double-check dimensions of the lifting mech interfaces if this helps. Besides that, as loren said, a lot needs to be changed to make this conversion happen. I also considered to alter the hood , to fit the strip to NB ( cutting and some fiberglass re-processing of the upper edge facing the strip).
Hi Fredn5(churchvb)- thank you for the guidance. Should help. Ordering it now, and it looks like one more of the many little projects the older the car gets. But also think it still deserves that attention :) Thanks again! ilja
Hi, I am chasing causes for wife's complaint about water dropping on the right foot on the drivers side during cornering on the 06 Cayenne Turbo. I already cleaned out the AC drain on the passenger side, but the leak seemed to remain predominantly on the driver side. I took out the entire driver's carpet (was all wet), and dried for a day in the sun. For a few days I subsequently removed parts, and finally I can see that he water is likely released from the seam between a plastic housing and an aluminum body (some heat exchanger?). I circled this region yellow in the attached picture. My question is, what is this part, and whether there is a way to remove w/o having to deal with dash board removal - or alike. Thanks, ilja
thanks for all recommendations ! The complete list with approved tires as well as knowing there are cheap alternatives too is very helpful. I will likely avoid the khumo’s ( i had the chance to test such when i got those along with a set of spare rims for my 911 , and found traction aweful ...). The p-zero’s seem a good alternative to me now. Bridgestones were installed on my CTTS prior i got it (the first owner had all work done at p-dealer, and i assumed they installed approved tire- and which the tsb seems to confirm). The main reason i wanted to stick to bridgestones is due to good traction, very good wear behavior and good price ( ~250 @tirerack before they stopped selling them in sept) ). however, thanks once more to all for your input!
For my 06 cayenne turbo s, the p-recommended was so far the bridgestone dueller hp sport 275 40 r20 106y . However, it is discontinued by bridgestone , and it becomes increasingly difficult to find new old stock. if sb. here could share some experience with alternative tires for this car , this would be very helpful. thanks , ilja
The RHS rear window regulator on my 02 C4 Cab broke last week too. Above posts were helpful to get this thing out and in quickly. My remaining problem was that I had that quick replacement for the broken regulator was not as simple as I thought (not much supply on intact used items, and rebuilds will take at least a few days back & forth). Short on patience, I analyzed the technical problem itself it turned out that the upper roll and rear string guide were compromised ((cracked in two pieces and missing at all resp.)). I ended up making a custom roller and guide from some old in-line skate-type rollers (yes, including one ball bearing) and another Polyamid block for the guide. The rest was some filing / cutting (I had a lathe to cut the string grove , but otherwise I used hand tools), and after about two hours later, I had the roll-arch-drive back to life assembled. The drive runs very good, and I think the bearing is a real upgrade to the drive, and possibly will outlast many other bits on the car. Since it was really no big deal to get this fixed much quicker that ordering anything- here a few pictures for those who may consider a DIY - fix of the drive parts as well. iH
thanks sswong98. i think the starter issue is tackled by installing a new one. still waiting for pump and motor mount, and meanwhile working myself through replacement of misc vac lines now as long as the intake is off. Currently struggling with the T-piece to the intake vent (circled red below). Seems next to impossible to remove the whole piece w/o taking engine out.... Trying to cut out the press-fitments to the metal tubes & replace with alternative design tee. Pretty low pace at this moment ( 15m /day....)as wife started to like driving the 996 (i am worried about that a bit...), but i really want to get the 955 pig out of the way in the garage for more exciting garage projects....
guess this noisy starter problem would go with brushless drives ... But likely this would never get mainstream or even cheap , when the ICE engine has no future anyway.... The rolling chassis was essential on the coffee table for easy move around during cleanup. Two rollers static, two steering wheels. could be hidden better, but i did not want to spend time to overengineer things....
Thanks nerdtalker! The squeaking is a good point. i got this randomly , and somehow always attributed to either belt or water pump. good to know, that the starter swap can fix this too:). thanks also for the offer on your starter. I will think about. Fyi - The only use for a used starter coming to my mind is not for automotive use at all - My last engineering travesty involving starters was an electric bathroom flush ( attic-mounted tanks , actuated through starter solenoids from some car ( whatever i could get at auto store) , a timer circuits for dual flush functionality and all powered by battery and solar cells to charge.). ...The more stuff i have , the more likely the crazy use.... ( this is how the hull of the donor engine for my dyi 996 engine rebuild ended up as coffee table in the living room):)
Thanks for the note - RFM. I know, and I gave up on a quick fix this afternoon after attempting to get sth. from two stores (Autozone / Napa; one rep did not even know what a graphite brush is...), I just ordered a rebuilt OE starter from Pelican, along more hardware, accessible w/ intake already off (vac/ water lines./ H2O pump, thermo/ belt. ...) since I have to wait a few days anyway, and the car needs this sooner of later (now @120k). The rush was mainly as wife needs a car during week. Currently only the 02C4 remains running, and which one she just does not feel too comfortable driving sheer by size and being a much rougher ride. I will enjoy the bike/train commute this week and hope no more car issues come up this week :)
My 06 cayenne tts did suddenly refused to start during wife’s friday grocery tour ( ending up on fladbed back home). diagnostics indicated bad starter , and further digging this morning - gone two out of four graphite brushes. Pelican would have a proper replacement, but since this would take a few days i thought to put some other brushes in. Does anybody know whether there are any compatible replacement brush kits i could get from a local auto store? thanks ilja
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