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stingman
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tuneRS Direct Oil Feed
stingman replied to HalM's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)
In Nov. 2011 I installed an LN engineering hybrid ceramic bearing as preventive maintainence in my low mileage (14K miles in 2011 and 17K miles now) 2001 996 cab. FYI, the bearing removed from my car was a single row and was in perfect condition. In 2011, the LN bearing was the only choice for an aftermarket fix. At that time, I thought this was a permanent solution to the stock Porsche bearing and not a "wear item" like a clutch. Now that I have an LN bearing already in place, it makes more sense and will cost less money to add the DOF kit at the next clutch change rather than change the bearing. The bearing change cost me $1800 in 2011 and it will stay in my car for the duration of my ownership. My plan when it's time to replace the clutch, is to inspect the IMS bearing for any evidence of pending doom and install DOF kit. -
Lost Radio Code - post your request here
stingman replied to pennyporsche's topic in Lost Radio Codes
Hi Loren, I am about to replace the steering lock assembly on my 2001 911 and do not have the radio code for my car. I followed the directions on this site and retrieved the serial number: 15076927 24/99. can you please tell me the code as I do not wish to disconnect the battery until I have this information. Thanks, Mike Hatch hatchm@comcast.net -
Lost Radio Code - post your request here
stingman replied to pennyporsche's topic in Lost Radio Codes
Me too: no radio code with car when bought used. 2001 911 Radio serno. 1507692724/99 Thanks for any help -
My 2001 Carrera with only 14,000 miles has the infamous ignition switch problem. Twice I have not been able to get the key out of the ignition without a lot of jiggling and cursing. I have read the posts and feel confident that I can handle the switch replacement job myself, but I have a few questions. if I disconnect the battery, will I have to punch in the radio code after reconnecting the cable? I ask this because I do not have the radio code. One of the posts states the switch was changed without disconnecting the battery.What are the risks? Also, I assume that since most of you that were mechanically inclined enough to change your own switch, were also curious enough to open the failed part and look inside. Is the broken switch a mechanical or electrical failure and what is it that actually breaks and what is it that prevents the key from turning? When the key refuses to turn or release, is it because a broken piece of plastic or metal is floating around inside? I ask this because there is no such thing as too much information. Based on the replies, I am considering whether it makes sense load up the inside of my new switch with di-eletric (silicon) grease in case the failure is a breakdown of the factory lube.