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wizard

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Everything posted by wizard

  1. wizard
    Just to add to JFP in PA's answer, the pedal going to the floor is also indicative of the brake system not being sealed i.e. a leak. You might want to look at that also.
  2. wizard
    Have you got the latest cap - 04 ? If yes, a fractured expansion tank is the most likely cause.
  3. wizard
    I have a Mercedes W123 MY1976 which belonged to my late father. He didn't drive it for many years and it was likewise sat in the garage. It started with relatively little trouble and ran like a song. Other than the petrol filter being gunged up, there was little else wrong with it. Put a battery in, check the engine oil and radiator, put in some fresh petrol, prime the carb with Cold Start or similar, turn the key and then take it from there. They don't make cars built like that or the W123 anymore!
  4. wizard
    Window regulator. The grinding noise is symptomatic of wire which operates the winding mechanism having frayed.
  5. wizard
    O.K. and sorry but it's somewhat difficult to solve this one remotely other than to suggest checking the Durametric website for possible answers.
  6. wizard
    Is the Durametric cable new or secondhand ? I ask this because on the entry level kit I believe that there's a limit of 3 vehicles, based on VIN.
  7. wizard
    If I understand JFP in PA correctly, a Durametric will do the trick to ensure that the braking system is properly bled, includIng the ABS module. I would have thought that investing in a Durametric cable would be a more practical solution instead of throwing money away on a tow truck. I hope that you get it all sorted.
  8. wizard
    Try abs-world-online.de I believe that there is a used one available for € 369.
  9. wizard
    Hello. As Loren has rightly pointed out, the brake booster is an issue with your model year. However, a defective booster will normally result in it requiring a lot more strength to push down on the brake pedal and, once depressed, the pedal not returning to its original position (remaining depressed). Before spending on a new booster, I still think you need to establish whether you have a leak of brake fluid. Mark the level on the fluid reservoir with a pencil, repeatedly apply the brakes and then check the level again. To check whether the booster is working properly, with the engine switched off pump the brake pedal a few times, then, while holding down the pedal, start the engine. The pedal should ease downwards a little as the engine starts. If you're having difficulty braking the car now, I would caution against driving it in case of total brake failure !
  10. wizard
    Yes, on the calipers. There's a rubber cap over the top of each bleed screw. If you remove the cap, any leak will show up on the inside of the rubber cap. If you're tightening the bleed screws, do so carefully. The problem suggests a brake fluid leak to me. Have you checked the master cylinder level to see if you are in fact losing fluid ? As I'm sure you know, brake fluid is extremely harmful to a car's paintwork. Good luck !
  11. wizard
    Buona sera. I once had the same problem on my Boxster. In my case, it was a leak of brake fluid from one of the bleed screws which hadn't been properly tightened. You might want to check that, and whether you are actually losing brake fluid.
  12. wizard
    At the risk of stating the obvious, perhaps the best idea is to get under the car and find out for sure from where the leak originates and what the fluid on your garage floor is ?
  13. wizard
    Good to hear that all's well now. I've just changed the water pump and ran the car with the bleeder valve open for a couple of days. If the problem returns, that is probably the best first step.
  14. wizard
    Have you opened the 'burp' valve to bleed air from the system ?
  15. wizard
    Electrical, surely. Have you checked for grounding ?
  16. wizard
    Hello. I've had a problem of wet carpet on the door. The membrane is in tact. I suspect that after replacing the regulator, the window is not going up as far as it should when the door is shut. If there's anybody with a 2003 986 who wouldn't mind comparing the position of their window when closed with the attached photo of mine, I'd be very grateful. Thanks
  17. wizard
    Problem solved. As you suggested, it was simply a case of pulling the inner door handle. Thanks once again.
  18. wizard
    Thanks very much. I shall try both and let you know.
  19. wizard
    No luck with the key. Swivelled was perhaps the wrong word. Rotated is probably a better description. In its normal position with the door open, the 'mouth' of the latch points to 3 o'clock so that when you close the door, the latch engages with the striker plate. I rotated the latch itself so that the 'mouth' now points to 12 o'clock. With a mechanically activated latch it can normally be returned to the correct position by holding up the door handle whilst rotating the latch with a screwdriver. With an electrically actuated locking mechanism, that doesn't work it would appear.
  20. wizard
    Hello. I had a problem opening the hood/bonnet due to a dead battery. That has been resolved, with a fully charged battery now in the car. However, in the course of trying to shut off the alarm, I stupidly swivelled the door latch to the locked position - with the door open! The problem I now have is how to 'unlock' the latch so that I can close the door. Any suggestions would be gratefully appreciated. I'm attaching a photo of the position of the latch at the moment. Thank you.
  21. wizard
    Having switched the batteries, as Mike suggested, the problem appears to be the Porsche Moll battery. The starter cranks strongly and the engine fires immediately. Hopefully the problem has been solved as I wasn't looking forward to pulling the alternator out. I'm not at all impressed with the Moll battery and shall go with a Bosch S5 as its replacement. The battery in the Mercedes is an 8-year-old Unipart Samson that my father put in. Over a period of 5 years it sat in the car (disconnected) and was only charged once a year whilst I was back in the UK on leave. It would appear that I have wasted everybody's time. My apologies. Chris
  22. wizard
    Excellent idea and, yes, it fits. Thanks.
  23. wizard
    Yes, the cluster was measured when everything was shutdown. However, the battery was fully charged last night (with the radio fuse already pulled, the car locked apart from the bonnet and the battery disconnected) and still the starter was very, very sluggish when I came to reconnect the battery and start the car this morning. All very perplexing but, without winter tyres, I can't use it anyway, or get to a garage for a load test. I've got the warm garage, but it's a case of Sod's law. No sooner than the winding mechanism went on the 36-year-old Mercedes that I inherited from my father (window now fully down and garaged by necessity) that the snow arrived, along with the Boxster problem! Chris
  24. wizard
    Thank you, Richard. 0.6 amps is about what mine is drawing. I'm not electrically-minded at all. The radio is rarely used so, if I just pull the fuse, am I correct in assuming that that would eliminate 0.6 amps of drain? The car was locked, with the bonnet resting on the latch when taking the reading. I read your post re the CDR23. It also made reference to a 'Diagnosis' function. The other circuit on my car that seems to be drawing current is B1 (instrument cluster, Tiptronic, diagnosis, PSM button). I wonder if there are similarities. Once the weather improves, I'll be doing a load test on the battery and have the alternator checked out. Chris
  25. wizard
    Well, another day. Having left the battery disconnected overnight (in sub-zero conditions), the voltage had dropped from 12.7V to 12.55V. The starter was very, very laboured but the car eventually fired. At slow idle, the reading was 14.4V. However, over the space of 10 minutes of slow idle, the voltage had dropped 0.3V to 14.1V. At 1500 rpm, the voltage remained at 14.1V. With the headlights and heater then turned on, the voltage remained constant at 14.1V. The Actron load tester is not available here in Europe. I have instead found one from Bosch (BAT 110) which has additional features to check charging and starter systems. As the car is under 6 inches of snow at the moment, with more forecasted over the next days, this project will have to be put on hold. Your guidance has been very much appreciated, and I shall let you know the outcome for interest sake. Chris
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