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greg0078

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Everything posted by greg0078

  1. Thank you all for the comments. The verdict from the independent mechanic is clutch slippage, so im going to get the IMS done at the same time. I was hoping it would be something trivial but it was not to be.
  2. Ahsai, the maf sensor has been replaced, new ignition wires, plugs, not sure on fuel filter need to double check on that.
  3. Ahsai - yes car and engine bog down at the same time for a split second
  4. Let me try and clarify, and thank you all for the feedback. When driving the car under hard acceleration (giving gas) the rpms will increase and the car is accelerating but for a split second during acceleration the rpms will drop. i lose forward momentum, the rpms drop (400rpm) and then it accelerates again from that point forward nice and smoothly. Not sure if i have explained it any clearer does that help
  5. i bought this cheap set from Amazon. They snap right in, but i do notice that they will not stay flush, so each time i get in the car i give them a gentle tap w/ my foot to knock them back into place. I've had them 3 months now, there is just a little bit of play, but they wont come out. I think they were only $20 so cheap enuff to give them a try, i got the black w/ silver crests but they have others. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AOHJ9NI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Product Description Set of 4 Oem Quality new Porsche wheel center caps. These will fit Porsche 911, 964,968, 993, 986, 997, GT2, GT3, Carrera, Cayenne's, Boxter's models with Oem wheels, also fits aftermarket wheels that use Porsche style center caps. Size: 3.0" (76mm) Inside leg size: 2.37" (60mm)
  6. I just spoke to my independent dealer and there first though is that this is clutch related and is showing the first signs. Tehy said what could be happening is when i stand on the gas the clutch is not engaging, so there is an increase in rpms and then it engages and pull through the rpm curve. If it requires a new clutch, i will likely also get the IMS done. Anyone have any thoughts on this? How long could i drive the car before the clutch really acts up.
  7. I haven't tried the maf as yet, but the air cleaner is new. It just had 30k mile service.
  8. It is a stick shift but this occurs on the highway when I am not doing a gear change. I could be in 4th or 5th and step on the gas. The car will accelerate but then there will be a slight drop in rpms and it will then accelerate again.
  9. MY 2001 996 Carrera 2. I noticed a couple of days ago when i go hard on the gas pedal the tach will increase but then drop 400rpm and then go back up. Its a split second delay when i/m hard on the gas. Doesnt seem to do it any specific range, i've notice it in the 3000s in 3rd gear, and in the 4000s in 4th and 5th. Today i even notice it in second gear. Any thoughts on what this is? And if i drive it for a couple of months could i do any additional damage?
  10. MY 2001 - The radio signal will periodiaclly come in and out. When it goes out the radio is unlistenable all static as if its struggling to pull in the signa. I was reading in the 997 forums there are some transistiors under the pop up wing that can be replaced. is that the same w/ the 996. I have pulled the radio and the antenna is propery connected, not sure what else to check, but its pretty annoying.
  11. Scout, do u know the name of the place that did the dye job?
  12. Folks, I just wanted to close this out and update everyone on the fix. I fired it up on the Monday and the CEL stayed on but all of the vibration was gone. I took it my independent dealer and they replaced all 6 ignition wires and plugs.
  13. Experts, I just drove my MY 01 996 C2 27k miles odometer, from the airport, and it has a violent vibration at low speeds under 20mph and under 3k rpm. I don't have a CEL reader to post the codes When I was not on the gas the vibration went away, put as soon as gas pressed it came back. Pulling off and under 20 mph it felt like the something drastic was about to happen and the CEL was flashing. Btwn 3-4k rpm it was less violent vibration but still bad. I recently got it back from the shop and but it was only for oil change, and brake flush no engine work. The MAF sensor was already replaced last yr, maybe 4k miles on that. I searched the other threads and it could point to ignition coil pack. I drove it about 14 miles and tried to baby it as best I could. The dealer is about 20 miles away mostly highway, what are your thoughts on driving it to the dealer, or should I tow it. One post said u could damage the cats and there really expensive. Can someone give me guidance if it is ignition coil how big and costly a job that is? I know u don't have much to go on w/out the codes. Question - should I err on the side of caution? Thanls in advance for any guidance, and i'll update the outcome
  14. Once again Loren the Oracle strikes, took 30 secs. Thank you so much, that just made my day. :thumbup:
  15. Ok so I inserted the radio pull keys and I can remove the radio, but I cant get the darn keys out of the radio. I've removed the radio before and i've never had this issue, once inserted the keys popped out, I don't recall any major issue. I've tried wiggling, pulling etc. is there some trick???
  16. Ok so I admit I mechanically flawed. I figured out how to remove the headlight to access the headlight washer, and it looks like it only has one screw that is needed to remove it. The issue is their is a brass connector clamp that squeezes the hose onto the connector. I cannot figure out how to remove that clamp???? I tried squeezing it at the top but it doesn't budge. If I don't remove the clamp it looks like you have to remove the bumper to follow the washer fluid hose to where it connects. I really wanted to avoid doing that. Is there a trick to get the hose released from the washer?qwer
  17. thanks loren, I searched the part and its the entire washer module that gets replaced I think even I can tackle this one. Thanks so much for your fast response. u rock
  18. Loren, its MY 2001, so the black washers near the front of the bumper. After a little more research I found out how to remove the headlight, and it is separate from the headlight. I pulled the headlamp out and put it back in. Thank youtube for that, just search on 996 headlight removal. So now the question is it the entire washer module that gets replaced? or just the nozzle washers where the water comes out. I found out when I pull them up its springloaded and it wasn't intuitive how they come out. If its the entire module it looks like one screw and remove the clip that holds the hose on. Also I found I can get a used one for $75 I will ask for a picture of it that will tell me if its the entire module or the piece w/ the two nozzle washers. thanks in advance
  19. one of the washers for the headlight has snapped off. My question is how ez is it to replace if I can purchase a used one. it looks like its attached to a section of the headlamp and its part of it. Also any idea how much that part is approximately new or used? let me know if u want a picture or any more details
  20. When driving at low speeds on the street I hear creaking come from the rear passenger side. but I cant quite place it as it seems to come from the front also. When I come to a stop under braking I definitely can hear the creaking up front. Doesn't seem to matter whether under throttle or in neutral From some other posts it sounds like it could be the control arms. I am planning on taking it in for some work early spring when I swap the tires from winter to summer, do a brake flush, and oil change. My question is can I wait until March or by driving it am I going to make it worse and create a bigger bill???? Thanks for your help/guidance in advance.
  21. I had the same problem, we replaced the key barrel and after that the key removed like a hot knife out of butter
  22. Just to close this out. I purchased a set of Sport Cup Rims and Blizzark WS70s from tire rack. i went with narrower tires up front 205/50/17 and 225/45/17, not from choice but that was the only setup tire rack could give me w/ the blizzarks. They came balanced so I had my local Porsche shop swap them out for me. We got a few inches of snow yesterday so decided to test them out, WOW what a difference. I love these tires the snow was the wet heavy stuff ~4 inches. My driveway is a hill and the car didn't even slide down and I was able to hold it a complete stop on the driveway, going back up was no issue either. I tested some hills up/down, no problem. I was careful not to overdo it, but no slippage and felt really confident. Thanks all for the advice. My question has been answered. Winter tires on a Carrera 2 no issues w/ the snow and hills, still have to be careful, but u don't have to worry about getting stuck. We did some donuts in the HS parking lot for good measure...
  23. Question - does anyone have a Carrera 2 that they put snow tires on and drive it all year round? I live in NJ and have some good sized hills that typically BMWs and Mercedes will get stuck on and not make it up. I was speaking to another owner and he swore that snow tires and the fact that the car hunkers to give more traction it would be fine. He drives his all year round w/ snow tires but he has a 4S, which is controlling the wheel spin. Anyone have any thoughts on this? I am considering using the car all year round but dont want to spend the cash if its not going to be able to go up hills w/ 3 inches of snow on them...
  24. I also had an issue recently w/ removing the key. It was actually there when I purchased the car used, but didn't realize and then it worsened. The key was not removing easily, I took it to the shop and they said the ignition switch needed to be replaced, and there was an upgraded version which they advised purchasing otherwise the issue would re-occur. After getting the car back it was definitely the switch, now the key turns w/ ease and removes like a hot knife thru butter. As I always had a sticky key, I never knew it was so silky smooth.
  25. I wanted to contribute this little nugget after I spent a day messing around getting my trunk opened. My battery drained whilst I was away on vacation, and I was therefore unable to release the trunk. I read a bunch of articles on here but I am mechanically disabled. I called my local repair shop as I figured there had to be another easy trick to get the trunk open. If u remove the fuse cover, there is a connector to connect the positive from your batter charger and then connect the negative to a piece of metal on the door hinge and that will provide enough power to release the trunk, at least so they told me. The issue is many battery chargers have microprocessors in them that detect a battery connection and will only provide power if connected to an auto battery. So that method did not work. :( I went to autozone and purchased a cigarette lighter charger for $20, (this was after 3 shops, call first,) plugged it into the AC an the other end into the lighter, after ~10 mins it finally had enough power to open the trunk, voila. I then used my regular charger to charge the battery. One thing to note, is that when u use the charger, u have to give it some time to recharge the battery, I got the lights back on my dashboard str8 away, and the interior lights, but I would hit the trunk release and I would hear a bunch of whirring but it would not release. Like I said don't panic, give it some time to charge ~10 mins and it will release. In fact the engine release worked first after 5 mins. I also think I have an electrical drain, but that is for another post.
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