ar38070

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So I have finally gotten bit by this. I have attached OBDII readouts. 1998 boxster, no engine mods, 61,000 miles. The car was running fine until mid-May. Then it sat idle till mid-July. (This is what I get for not driving it.) Ironically I used a K&N air filter for three years. Never had a problem Took it out in January this year and put a paper one in. (Don't fix what's not broke I guess.) The battery had pooped (I left the trunk open one day). After recharging the battery I started it up and it ran like crap for a few minutes (no power, would not accelerate, etc) which I assumed was normal as the battery had been disconnected while I recharged it. Took the car out and drove around for an hour without incident. On the way to the track two days later CEL comes on after having been on the highway for 1.5 hours and just after a fuel stop. Thought maybe I had forgotten to put the gas cap on or it was loose. Check the fuel cap, it is okay. Get to the track, disconnect the battery to clear the CEL and drive on the track for an hour and the CEL comes back. What I have tried so far: Checked the fuel cap seal, looks okay. Checked the oil cap o-ring, looks okay. Replaced the spark plugs (it was due) Replaced the fuel filter (it was due) Dumped a bottle of Techron in the tank. Long shot but I had one lying around. The O2 sensor readings look okay, at least I think they look okay. Comments? It looks like the Long Term Fuel trims are maxed out so I am assuming that the car is running lean and the DME cannot add enough fuel, correct? Tightened clamps and looked for air leaks (sprayed carb cleaner all over the place and did not see anything, any other ways to check for air leaks?). When the engine is running there is a fairly loud whooshing or hissing noise, I assume this is normal as it is not something you normally hear with the covers in place. Checked the oil filler tube, seems okay. Anyone know how to disconnect it from the crankcase tube? I undid the clamp but could not get it separated. Any other tips on looking for air leaks? Where to look? The mass air flow sensor is reading a little low, 3.5-3.9, as opposed to what I believe should be 4.2. Maybe I should try cleaning it. Comments? I have cleared the codes 2 or 3 times now and gone on test drives and the codes keep reappearing after about 20-30 miles of driving. Any other suggestions short of replacing more parts like the MAF? One other thing I have noticed is that when I take it out for a test drive with the engine cold the engine will stall. This has happened once and almost happened a second time though I say it coming and blipped the throttle. I live on a big hill so when I leave it is down hill for a half a mile with a stop sign at the bottom. When I stop the car at the bottom of the hill the car is pointed down slightly. When I put the clutch in when I stop at the stop sign is when it has stalled. I also notice that after the stop when I accelerate from the stop sign I get a slight hesitation in the acceleration. After that initial stall/hesitation I do not notice the symptoms again. Low fuel pressure maybe?

I have never had any problems with the stock spring clamp. I have not heard of anyone else having a problem. I think if you were to look at a set of new stock pads the situation would be the same. In any case after an hour of track time the pads would be worn sufficiently that it would not be a problem any more.

How new is the car? With brand new brake pads and rotors brake performance may be weak until the pads have bedded in (at least 100-200 miles).

$800 is not bad. I believe it is $300-$500 in parts. Depending on how much they want to check out the car then by all means let them see if there is something else wrong first. The install is not difficult if you have experience working on cars. If you put on the turbo bumper cover you should be able to do it.

Depending on where you live (does not go below freezing) and how much you are adding (less than a quart) just use water.

It is possible to remove the front wheel carrier without removing the strut. It is not the easiest way to remove it though. You will need to fully compress the spring and strut. Alternatively if you mark the position of the nuts that hold the top of the strut to the body you can put it back pretty much in the same spot so that the alignment is retained. There is a system call helicoil that allows you to drill out the original threads and insert a threaded body to replace the old threads. The kit usually runs about $50. I do not know if they make the correct size or if it is recommended for this use.

From the PCA website tech section: http://www.pca.org/tech/tech_qa_question.a...B-D7E57E43B5DA}

thanks

I have looked in a bunch of places and cannot find this. So standing at the back of the car and looking forward the driver's side (left side) are cylinders ???. If it is 1-3 then is cylinder 1 at the front or the rear? Is the cylinder numbering identical for a 996? or is it reversed since the motor is in backwards :) ? Is the cylinder numbering identical for a 996TT/GT2/GT3?

The front nuts are 27ft-lb. The rear eccentrics are 81ft-lbs.

The caliper is fine. You just need to replace the wheel carrier.

They are quite loud when running. If the car is sitting and running the fans should be cycling on and off. When the car is cold start the car, the fans wont be running. Note the sound level. Drive the car. When you stop, note the sound level. If it is the same okay. Let the car sit while idling, assuming it is pretty warm, 80+ degrees F, then after a few minutes of idling the fans should turn on.

So I am troubleshooting the same problem. Once the car is warmed up the MAF is reading 4.6 g/s (which I assume is grams/sec). My impression from the above post is that this is too low. Does anyone know for sure what the correct reading is supposed to be and under what conditions is the reading supposed to be measured?

Sounds like you need more cooling capacity --> add the third radiator. Another thought, you might want to be sure that your radiator fans are working properly.

Forgot. Before you install the GT3 seat you have to either transfer the seat belt receptacle from the stock seat or by another one.

There is nothing unusual about the seat replacement. 1) disconnect the battery 2) unbolt the seat (requires torx socket) (you may have to pull off the plastic covers that cover the front of the seat rails). You can slide the seat forward and backwards to get access to the bolts. 3) tilt the entire seat backwards and undo electrical connection 4) take seat out (it is a good idea to cover the door sill with a blanket or something so you do not scratch it). Install is the reverse. To undo the BK bar just undo the bolts/nuts. If you need detailed instructions you can get them from www.bkauto.com.

I am unfortunately debugging P1130/P1128 codes on my 98. When my OBDII scanner first starts it displays the following: -------------------------------------- ECU - 17 Continuous Monitor Status Misfire Monitoring Supported - Complete Fuel System Monitoring Supported - Complete Comp. Component Monitoring Supported - Complete Non-Continuous Monitor Status Catalyst Monitoring Supported - Not Complete Evap System Monitoring Supported - Complete Secondary Air Monitoring Supported - Complete Oxygen Sensor Monitoring Supported - Not Complete Ox Sensor Heater Monitoring Supported - Complete ---------------------------------- I think that the "Non-Continuous Monitor Status" items are those items that take a number of drive cycles to complete. The car has 100 miles on it since I disconnected the battery. So I think until all of the monitors have completed the car wont "pass" smog. Anyone have any other ideas or insights?

My head hurts. :blink:

After the battery has been disconnected there is a certain number of "drive cycles" (whatever that is) that needs to be done before the OBDII system has had a chance to check everything. "Drive cycles" has to do with starting and stopping the engine, x miles driven, x miles over 55 mph, etc. I do not know exactly what all the parameters are to fully satisfy the system. Maybe someone with an OBDII manual can fill us in.

If the problem started after the installation of the short shifter then I would look at adjusting the shift cables.

If that is your car in the picture then you can buy the parts from a dealer. Since you have already changed your front bumper to one that has the middle radiator openning, adding the third radiator should be straight forward. All you need are the parts that are already included in an "S". (The "S" has the third radiator installed from the factory.)

and to remove the amber ones you just pull out at the rear. The clear ones run about $30.

If you do not have any noises or leaks then you are fine. Just top off the fluid level.

Something is definitely wrong with your car. A friend has a 2000 tip and the only time it would over heat was at the track in 95+ degree weather. He solved his problem by adding the third S radiator and an S bumper cover.